Lovely job again Nick. I do enjoy watching your board swaps and rewrites in general. Really neat and you always give 100% when it comes to attention to detail.
We have a remote power switch here in the US normally used for turning on dust collectors remotely, I use one on my vac as well, it just plugs in between the plug and socket! I think they have similar in UK plug format for dust collector as well
Board looks neat but the cable tied gas bond is a no no NIC pulled us up for that years ago Also we have to firestop everything now , straight from the board up the trunking and into the loft or floor above is also a no no
You asked to be reminded. Actually it's a great idea you already did it! haha I'm watching them out of order. Don't know if they exist in the UK but they must over here in the United States we have in line plug things with a little push button remote control for Christmas lights and the like. I like using them to turn my fan on and off. The downside is the little remote usually require batteries so the kinetic is probably a better way to go. We don't have that kind of stuff yet relatively on store shelves maybe special order from the wholesaler maybe.
Try putting a quick release bar clamp over the CU knockouts when drilling next to them, and would your assessor want you to trim back the sheathing a bit more near the top of the CU? Nice , neat CU change though and finished off nicely with the trunking, good job Nick....... but did you need to number the 10mm and 6mm cables?😆
Don’t leave a space for a future EV next to the high current draw circuits. The days of organising circuits high to low are gone. The heat created by the high current circuits de-rates the breaker. You’re better off going high low high low.
Why not do another chase down to the db to make it as neat as the rest of the install? Or even drill a few large holes up to the ceiling g void at a slight angle. Then rear entry all the cables. It’s something that i always do and clients like it for the little extra effort.
think i read this on a iet publication might be wrong though , It recommended arranging the board with high load then low load then high load then low load you get the picture to keep the c/u cool, rather than high loads all jammed up together, think it was an article on nuisance tripping , anyway nice looking job👍
I don't think it will let me link it here but it's in IET Wiring Matters issue 96. "Derating grouped circuit-breakers within a consumer unit due to mutual thermal influences".
Truly exceptional work on the CU install, glad to see all radial circuits, much better than I can do, however few points to note, the nicely grouped and secured cables in the trunking means several circuits are "bunched" or "grouped" together and this introduces a derating factor for the cables, why are people still using 1mm T&E anywhere in an installation?, I know this is a rewire but why are you putting the new CU in a non Part M compliant position? I know most if not all of Part M does not apply on a rewire of an existing building but we really should seriously consider putting new CU's at the recommended height in a readily accessible location, I always advocate for radials everywhere, but is 1 X 20A radial really sufficient for the whole upstairs or all of downstairs except the kitchen? 2 fan heaters on the same circuit during a cold spell in Winter and you are done! Really good to see a separate circuit for outside lights, is there a "Dusk to Dawn" (D2D) sensor for any outside lights not on a PIR?
1mm is fine ! reference method A in wall or conduit allows 11.5A , even if you used bunched grouping factors to further reduce current carrying capacity its still well in on a 6A Rcbo. Why would you use 1.5mm exactly ? You wouldn't.
Back in the day metal capping was just cheaper. it's to stop the plasterers massacring the cable with trowels, and for some brands of cable to keep the plaster off.... (see manuf's directions, some are NOT rated for burial in plaster!)
ooh, fancy fkr 🤣 Really nice board install btw. Summat to try sometime could be putting the earth sleeve on, making up labels using that Brother heatshrink, and putting them on the cables? That way each cable would be labelled and the earth sleeve would be held on by the heatshrink. Hmm, I think I'm going to try that 🙂
another great video mate! quick question, i have a small 4 burner induction hob and a single electric oven. they are both on one 6mm2 cable. is this okay? thanks
What is the long attachment you use in your drill? And what do you find the benefit from using one so long compared to the standard bit holders for drills/impacts
I've got a sleeve it I like it but really think it should be able to take 3 or 4 different sleeving earth, brown and blue would have been so obvious to me as a designer 🤷
Nick why have you not switched to the new Doncaster cable with the earth already sleeved? they advertised the cost is the same as the current one so just wondering how lots of electricians have not switched yet?
Often thought that Quinetic should really have something like that in their range. Seems like a no brainer to incorporate wireless switch into socket outlet
Life creeps up on you sometimes. Here I am, Saturday night, enjoying that consumer unit work 👌🏻 very nice! Took a while I know but well worth it. A real shame when you put the covers on and nobody can admire haha to the untrained, just looks like you’ve screwed a box and a bit of trunking to the wall…. Then people question prices haha
the trunking to the board looked neat, but what's going on with the tails in the background going down the metre cabinet lol?? also is it over a 3metre tail run to the db? going through ceiling voids also??
Why do you use the older fusebox rcbos instead of the minis that are also safer due to being double pole isolation on switching? Is it purely to save £1.50 an rcbo?
Is that all we have to do to get those folks to stop complaining about the yo mama jokes. I think they're reasonably tasteful and not too overdone most days. But I've also been watching the greatest technician who makes it into wordplay.
they make bluetooth sockets with remotes btw, creative thinking with the kinetic switch tho lol. Ikea makes a nice looking one for you: www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/tretakt-plug-with-remote-control-smart-30569726/?gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwnqK1BhBvEiwAi7o0X3d3fgQHBXV161wzKkhP1VtS92sEWkwn7JDAhuB7rdjWxKBebE0I-xoC2Y8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
@@NBundyElectricalwhat's with these people 😂, feed it in a 10mm armoured via a 40amp rcbo if you like, as long as the spurs got a 3amp fuse. Little warriors getting their panties in a twist over something so inconsequential
You have future expansion of this circuit for an immersion or additional wiring, same route for the cable ,same price for the RCBO Personally speaking, if you wire a boiler circuit in a one mil cable You’re not thinking about future alterations
@@NBundyElectrical well I wire heating circuits in 1.5 and you are correct, I don't think about expansion of the circuit. Why? Because that's not my job. My job is to provide a safe and compliant install and to keep costs as low as possible by not using unnecessary materials. I know it's no big deal to use 2.5 instead of 1.5 for a single circuit but imagine if that's an entire apartment block (the majority of what I do), you would then be wasting thousands of pounds worth of copper. And tbh, immersion heater circuits in my opinion should be on their own circuit anyway as heating elements burn out and trip the RCD fairly regularly when used a lot. And, where does this all stop? Using your logic, you should wire the lighting circuit in 2.5 just in case you ever want to add sockets to it. Or maybe run a 10mm to every room for future submains for some power hungry tech that may or may not ever be installed. You see how silly that argument can become?
@@DS-tp6vx the argument isn’t silly in the view of your comment on my video in a domestic rewire the cost difference between a 2.5 mil cable and a 1 mil cable is pence, what would be silly is to compare that to hundreds of apartment blocks that you rewire, All I’m trying to say is what Harm does it make trying to future proof stuff and make it a bit easier yourself coming back to the job or another sparking in the future
@@NBundyElectrical I get that, future proofing is a sound argument to make. But you said that anyone installing a boiler circuit using 1.5 is not thinking about future alterations. I'm saying why stop there? I could easily throw that back at you and say you should wire all your socket radials in 4mm to allow for future expansion. Or that your tails should be 35mm to allow for a bigger supply from the network in the future. To me, you wire for what's there because what could be there in the future is an endless list of possibilities. You have selected one circuit for an upgraded cable size in comparison with the design current, why not apply that to every circuit?
