when you started the layers of steel were like a sandwich then you crush corners then draw it out do you draw it out with the layers running up and down vertically before restack.
@@robertpiano9991 You want the crushed W's running vertically in the billet. Meaning as you press the bar, your W's are being compressed. The other way would flatten them, if that makes sense. The graphics represent the orientation of the bar.
@@jeffclarke1694 Once you twist something, you really lose most of the pattern. I've found that after twisting most patterns, it just looks like a twist. Plus this would have a VERY high chance of shearing apart.
The scale coming off the billet can look so cool at times. I need to up my game on the video production and do some slow-mo shots of that. Thanks for watching, Jamie!
@@TyrellKnifeworks Don't up it too much, I love the authenticity of your videos. Some channels have their cameras on tracked dollys and the video is more about the production of the video and not the work. 👍👍🎦🎦🎥🎥
Man I don't even know how to express how I feel about your videos. Your damascus billets are always amazing. What I'm so floored about is how freely you give the processes to us. I can imagine filming and editing gobble up a ton of time. Thank you, I am a huge fan Dennis.
It doesn't matter if you know the exact details, every person, every hand, is giving a different outcome, the experience, the style, the perception, makes the difference.
"Oh! Hey Everyone! I'm Dennis Tyrell. Let me take two EXTREMELY complicated ideas -- ring-of-fire damascus, and TIG welding, and make EVERYONE feel like they can do those things with my calm, concise, simple and easy to understand explanations." **ten homes immediately blow up as people think they're expert TIG welders** (including mine). Seriously -- I LOVE this channel. I learn so much, EVERY SINGLE TIME I watch a Tyrell Knifeworks video. They're the best!
You're seriously like... the Mr. Rogers of knife making. Here we are as parents trying to explain to our kids the big feeling of jealousy, and we can't figure out how to tell our 4 yo that it's ok to be jealous of their new baby sibling, and along comes Mr. Rogers with the perfect explanation. And here YOU are, giving perfect explanations for all us new knifemakers. I really do appreciate your channel. It makes me excited to keep going and keep learning.
You'll definitely want to checkout the full build video on this one coming soon! I'm excited about this one, having never done a spear before. Thanks for watching, Guillermo.
But you need to consider the steel from that period was terrible by today's standards. They first took bloom steel created in a furnace and then combined different steels in a crucible and melted them together to form traditional damascus or what we call "wootz" steel. This was stronger because it removed more impurities that plagued steel of that period. Today's modern steel is very pure and MUCH stronger so modern damascus is done by layering different kinds of steels to produce a pattern. In itself, it is not stronger but actually can be weaker than the original steel if not done correctly. You are forge welding those steels together and if any weld isn't done right, it introduces a point of failure. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Usually you lose one percent of metal when you heat it up. You can see piles of scale around the power hammer or anvil. But the amount of steel you use decreases as you forge and heat as the billet as the billet gets smaller as you keep heating and forge . I think a math size could come up with a formula for the amount of loss over time. A long answer for a simple problem.
It depends on how often you have to heat it and the ratio between surface area and volume of your billet. From start to finish of making a more complicated pattern I’ve heard people losing as high as 3/4 of the material but that also depends on how much grinding you do. But I would say it is always enough to notice
What Robert and Simon have said is spot on. This is why I say some patterns aren't realistic to do by hand because you'd need to start with so much steel because you'd have to do so many heats that you'd lose most of it to scale. This is one of those patterns. Thanks for watching.
Glad to hear yet another good review of the Vevor welder. I've seen quite a few now and I think I've decided to purchase the MP welder that they sell; it's like $300 I think and so still a pretty good deal for what it is. Just need to run a sub panel out to my shed and I'll be good to go. Then I can finally build a press and try out some of these patterns.
I'm glad that was helpful, Alex! Not everyone understands the different welding techniques so I thought this would be a good thing to go over. Thanks for watching.
Awesome video. How long have you been making damascus? Does it take half a life time to learn? I am due to retire in the next couple of years and love this combination of art and metalworking. You really are one of the best I've seen. Cannot wait to see the finished spear.
I've been bladesmithing just under 5 years. It doesn't take long to learn. Watch my Beginner Series playlist, that will help you get started at bladesmithing! 👍🏻. Thanks for watching.
Also when you are using a scratch arc tig, to prevent pinholes, you have to roll the tungsten off, don’t lift it. We welded pipe for MANY years, and still do, before they came out with pedal start. They are nice rigs though. I need one! 😁😂
Coming along nice. Can’t wait to see the spear build. That split was stressful to watch! 😬😬Lol. Oh, the little diagrams out add are really helpful to see what’s going as you progress.
You’re amazing I really appreciate it how fascinated Louise playing through everything is pretty cool how many do that so appreciate it and like the show the lights up to continue on with them I’ll keep watching
awesome video denis learned alot appreciate it and wow im buying 1 of those tig units it will be perfect for just damascus i really want to do feather but my buddy who welded my press together didnt leave a big enough opening for my dies he made the opening the same as the travel on my ram 8 inch so now i need to figure things out there probly gonna have to torch out the welds and re do it thanks again Mark😃👍👍
You're going to have to wait for the full build video on this one. We're on to another cool damascus project in next week's Triple-T! Thanks for watching, Dan!
Just an interesting fact, fusing / welding without filler material is called autogeneous welding and in my experience is mostly used with plasma welding
Not before you split it, but before you reforge the splits back together. This was a huge improvement on the feather process. I've always had a love/hate relationship with feather because it always tries to split as you draw it out, this totally addresses that. 👍🏻. Thanks for watching, James.
@@jamesball7322 It's just that if you forge weld on the side plates before the split, its an extra forge session, as opposed to doing it while you forge the splits together. Either way though, it's a huge improvement.
@@williammorrin7933 I wouldn't try to forge curves into the feather, its very prone to splitting and you would be putting a ton of stress on the exactly where the splits occur. You'd be better off adding the steel to the outside, putting in the scallops and then grinding all the steel away if you wanted just the feather (with no other steel on the sides).
I have what is probably a silly question but what would happen if you did a bar of twist pattern and stacked it like you would for a feather? Then split it just like you would a feather. I’m sure it’s probably been done but I’m wondering what the pattern would look like.
You'd get some weird twist that wouldn't really be that recognizable. Plus to get a twist that thick it would have to be a twisted bar stacked on itself. I'm not sure what it would look like but probably something akin to a crushed W feather. Thanks for watching, Bill.
when you stack your steel on top of each other you draw it out then you crush corners for your C then do you flip the billet on its side so the layers are different than when you started. i hope i explaind it as best as i can
When you stack your steel, you keep it in that orientation to crush the corners. Then you turn it 90 degrees so the layers are running up and down and press the bar flat. Make sense?
Hey Denis, Another great video! Now I'm going for the Tig welder and will have to get an Argon cylinder. What size do you use, and what regulator? Thanks again for all that you do. Please continue the great work!
Awesome video Denis (as usual). An idea for the river of fire. I am curious what it would look like if you layered in a little 15N20 with the 1084 on the edges or even get a little crazy and substitute the 1084 for some cu mai.
Sure, you could even do Damascus edge bars, though you’ll grind a fair amount away. For this spear build I want the “shore” to be black. 😉. Thanks for watching.
You can buy wire for AR 500 that's a lot harder than typical ER70 wire for mild steel? I'm not a blacksmith but been a welder for 40 yrs, don't know if that helped or not?
That wire would still not be the hardened steel that matches the steel in the work you're doing. It would show up differently when etched and look like a blotch. You don't want to introduce any different steel into the work piece and I very much doubt you'd find exactly the same steel in a wire for a mig. Thanks for watching.
I disagree a bit, I don't think feather is a pattern you can realistically do by hand. The problem is the number of layers, the crushed W's and the forge weld of the tall stack are incredibly challenging to do without a press. Could you do it with enough time and effort, sure. You're probably going to need 3x the amount of steel though because you're going to lose so much steel to scale.
You won’t actually see rings though when you do the holes. The feather pattern goes the other way through the billet. You’d get something but it wouldn’t look that circular and not like eyes. Thanks for watching.
I really enjoy watching your videos. Very impressive and informative. Have you watched any videos from Manuel Quiroga? He has only a few out on youtube but does some fantastic work. If you haven't seen any-check him out. Not sure if this is listed under the full name or not Manuel Quiroga Güiraldes.
Your videos are so informative I just subscribed. I have a 20 ton press and it seems to work hard doing this. How big of a press would you recommend? Thankyou Sir.
20 tons should be plenty to split a feather. Just do it slowly and make sure the billet is very hot. My press is only 28 tons, so not much more than yours. thanks for watching, Joe.
I always consider a twist on its own. Once you twist something, it really muddies the pattern and you lose any other pattern you did unless the twist is very loose. Generally its better to treat these on their own. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks agreed! The yes welder I bought was 450 they have a lower end model that’s about 279. People seem to like them and they have pretty good reviews. No way I’m spending the money for a miller to fuse billets!
That tungsten was sticking WAY TOO FAR outside the ceramic cup on your Tig torch. Also on the Tig welding, you don’t need to only use the mild steel Tig rod like ER70S or simply fusing the steel, you can actually get high carbon steel wire like 1080 wire from McMaster-Carr on a roll in various diameters so you are welding with steel that can be incorporated into the Damascus without needing to be completely ground out
@@TyrellKnifeworks you should really try using a foot pedal if your new welder will accommodate one, either a foot pedal or a thumb wheel on the torch as they both function the same just one uses your foot to turn on and turn up the juice and the other has a thumbwheel that rotates to do the same thing
No, it just melted back. There's no mild steel in the billet, you'd see it in the etch if there was. This wasn't my first time using this wedge. Thanks for watching.
As i recall when i first learned how to use a TIG machine was rule number 1: Don't touch the electrode to the work piece because it causes contamination of the weld. So im wondering what the maker of your first machine was thinking... Love the series btw :)
