Triple (x3) your Layer Strength by Annealing 3D Prints in Plaster!

Подписаться 584 тыс.

Просмотров 495 тыс.

50% 1

Download a free 30 day trial of AutoCAD ▸ bit.ly/cncautodesk
In the past, I've already tried many different techniques to fuse 3D printing layers together by annealing or coating but never had great success. This time I embedded PLA and PETG 3D prints in plaster and then annealed them at temperatures over their melting point to see if we can fuse the layers together and how their heat resistance changes. Let's find out more!
Website article: www.cnckitchen.com/blog/r85hx...
💚 Support me 💚
Patreon: / cnckitchen
Join as a RU-vid member!
Original CNC Kitchen Threaded Inserts: geni.us/CNCKInsertsChoice
Merch: teespring.com/stores/cnckitchen
Buy an Original Prusa i3 printer: geni.us/CNCKPrusa
PayPal: www.paypal.me/CNCKitchen
Shop at Matterhackers(US): www.matterhackers.com/?aff=7479
Shop at 3DJake(EU): geni.us/zHvnB
🎙Check out my PODCAST with Tom Sanladerer
/ @themeltzone
🎥 Related videos:
PC-Core ABS filament: • PC-Core ABS - WARP-FRE...
Vacuum drying filament: • Vacuum VS Dehydrator! ...
Fusing layers with superglue: • STRONGER 3D Prints wit...
Fusing PLA layers by annealing: • Strong 3D prints throu...
🛒 Equipment used in this video (Affiliate Links):
Original Prusa i3 Mk3S: geni.us/CNCKPrusaMk3
Flir ONE Thermal Camera: geni.us/A4E4
Food Dehydrator: geni.us/MW7Sxco
⚙ My gear (Affiliate Links):
🎥 CAMERAS & LENSES
Panasonic GH5 - Professional 4k60 camera: geni.us/LMN0CmS
Panasonic GX80/GX85 - Great value system camera: geni.us/M2Sm
30mm f2.8 macro - Great Macro Lens (80% of my videos): geni.us/vEwqD
10-25mm f1.7 - Awesome Lens: geni.us/ZTBH
12-35mm f2.6 - Great Allround Lens: geni.us/S9GOsr
14-140mm f3.5-5.6 - My go-to travel Lens: geni.us/fSAyKo
25mm f1.4 - Nice prime for photography: geni.us/mqWM
🎙AUDIO
Rode Video Mic Pro - Shotgun mic: geni.us/6JFRdJ
Rode Film Maker Kit - Wireless mic: geni.us/XMD2N
Rode NT-USB - Studio Mic: geni.us/YVONvy
🔴 LIVE STREAMING
Elgatoo Stream Deck: geni.us/ppIiAL
Elgatoo HDMI USB Capture Card: geni.us/imhD
Logitech C920 - Overhead camera: geni.us/ViVgB
Follow me on Twitter: / cnc_kitchen
Follow me on Instagram: / cnckitchenyt
Chapters:
00:00 Introduction
01:50 Test Setup
02:50 Embedding
03:56 Drying
05:00 Promo
06:34 Plaster Removal
09:00 Mechanical Tests
12:50 Temperature Tests
13:56 Summary
14:21 Outro
DISCLAIMER: This video was sponsored by Autodesk.

Наука

Опубликовано:

9 июл 2024

Ссылка:

Скачать:

Готовим ссылку...

Добавить в:

Мой плейлист

Посмотреть позже

Комментарии : 1,4 тыс.

@CNCKitchen 3 года назад

Download a free 30 day trial of AutoCAD ▸ bit.ly/cncautodesk Don't forget to share this video on Facebook, Reddit, Twitter, and other platforms!

@RedHotBagel 3 года назад

Going forward with a sponsorship from Autodesk after the community response to their crippling of Fusion 360 seems like a bold move. Hope you could squeeze them for some hazzard pay for the risk to your reputation. Great tests, as always. Thanks a lot :)

@certified-forklifter 3 года назад

i dont understand why autodesk starts sposorings right NOW, when there is so much risk of the community hating them...

@vhoward1122 3 года назад

@@RedHotBagel Autodesk was under no obligation to continue offering Fusion 360 for free. Especially when there are quite a few who abused the free license by using it for commercial purposes.

@RM771000 3 года назад

One thing to test post process for the PLA is UV resistance. Typically this is where PETG shined over PLA, but if its handling heat that much better, maybe it's UV resistance is also increased?

@RM771000 3 года назад

@@vhoward1122 I can totally forgive that, its their insistence on a sub that killed me. I'll buy a piece of software once, I am not prepared to make it an extra monthly bill.

@MegaScienceguru 3 года назад

this man single handedly has helped the entire 3d printing community on multiple occasions, thank you Stefan

@TommiHonkonen 3 года назад

bruh he got 2 hands

@manup1931 3 года назад

Try heat resistant silicon molding. Will work in vacuum.

@greasysteve5671 3 года назад

He's the Jeorge Sprave (I probably butchered his name, srry) of 3d printing

@amongusmanki 3 года назад

@@TommiHonkonen suomi perkele

@KookyBone 3 года назад

There is another method using salt, looks like an easier solution to me ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nRLJ4ylGTFc.html

@Coloneljesus 3 года назад

Before putting in plaster, coat with a sealer and then mold release. Avoids moisture absorbtion and reduces cleanup.

@shadow7037932 3 года назад

Good call on mold release and sealant.

@mhartleroad 3 года назад

In a pinch, try Pam cooking spray

@wt2009 3 года назад

wouldnt this mix up with the pla?

@DanielSMatthews 3 года назад

@@wt2009 Could do and that is what I thought when the same idea occurred to me, the chemistry would be complex, then again having thought about it another time it could help. Only one way to be sure!

@jondepinet 3 года назад

@@mhartleroad i was thinking a quick dip in liquid paraffin wax would seal the part off nicely.

@free_spirit1 3 года назад

Use SALT. I get EXCELLENT and consistent results by doing this process in finely ground salt (ideally near powder, if you have the patience to grind it that fine). The finer the better. Pack a stainless steel container tightly with salt and the part. In the oven the salt kind of hardens and the part is not allowed to deform at all. After the remelting I just demold and wash the parts and the fine crystals embedded in the wall just dissolve. I'm left with a part surface roughness that is dependent on the coarseness (or fine-ness) of the salt. The solidified chunks of salt easily return to powder by crushing them with your hands and it can nearly be reused ad infinitum since you lose very little salt at every run. The parts are super strong and water/airtight. I use the technique mostly for printing watertight containers and small pressure vessels. Can do really thin walls too. Beware, try to buy preground salt, cause grinding a few kgs of salt in a coffee mill or blender will overheat the motor (i broke my blender this way). Feel free to credit me if you try the technique. Also take a shot for every time I said the word 'salt' in this here comment. EDIT: I just made a video detailing the process and results. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nRLJ4ylGTFc.html

@marksworkshop8724 3 года назад

This is actually really smart. When my Prusa mini finally arrives next month I'll have to try it.

@CNCKitchen 3 года назад

Nice explanation!

@free_spirit1 3 года назад

@@CNCKitchen thank you for taking the time to read

@ProtonOne11 3 года назад

Thats a nice idea. Do you think using road deicing salt is okay for this too, as it's way cheaper than table salt.

@free_spirit1 3 года назад

@@ProtonOne11 probably, though here in the Netherlands even iodized table salt is like 50¢/kg. The main thing is to use a stainless steel vessel, because a steel one will rust pretty quickly with the salt and heat, and will discolour the salt which I guess could transfer to your prints. Another thing is to pack it really tightly. If there are pockets of plastic that are not packed and properly immobilised they will sag and deform, so you should thing well about the geometry of the part during design.

@tinayoga8844 3 года назад

The higher temperature capability of the PLA after annealing is the most interesting result from these tests.

@billsbuck911 3 года назад

I can think of endless possibilities

@cutty02 3 года назад

well we already knew that. but the 0 deformation is the real winner here.

@t_c5266 3 года назад

Thats already been established in a different video he did

@BitcoinIsGoingToZero 3 года назад

It's because of increased crystallinity, which has a higher melting point, because of its lower energy and therefore thermodynamic stability. This is to be expected for semicrsyatlline polymers like PLA

@Gabe1291 3 года назад

Exactly. A phone holder or sunglasses clip doesn't really need the full PLA strength to function as intended, just the ability to not melt in a car sitting in the sun all day. This would be perfect for those applications.

@Seecalator 3 года назад

Hey Stefan! I did a bit porcelain casting back in university. This is the technique we used to get (mostly) bubbly-free plaster molds: Start with water inside an somewhat wide and shallow container. Slowly add plaster using a sieve and let it dissolve into the liquid. Don't stir! Repeat until the plaster stops dissolving and is resting on the surface. You can now give it a light carefull stir, but it does not need much at this point. In the end the plaster should have the consistency of a thick gravy, which makes pouring it into your mold pretty easy.

@CNCKitchen 3 года назад

Nice explanation.

@shenqiangshou 3 года назад

The temperature tolerance improvement on PLA is astonishing. That is much more interesting to me, since we have so many techniques for designing and printing parts in their optimal orientation, but if the material fails due to temperature, then there is nothing you can do. So massive kudos for figuring out this step.

@rickarddt 3 года назад

As a mechanical engineer that studies strengths and stress analysis (but now specialise is thermodynamics) I find this first principle practical approach first class. I use the same formats to show improvements or steps backwards. Overall very refreshing to see.

@MakeTestBattle 3 года назад

1. Coat the parts in a hydrophobic mold release. 2. Cast the parts individually in custom printed casting containers so there is an even plaster layer around the part. You will use less plaster and have more surface area to volume so the cast will dry quicker. More even heat distribution during annealing and the plaster may be less likely to crack. 3. Cast the parts with the container on a vibrating bed to agitate the bubbles out. 4. Use an ultrasonic bath to clean the parts. Maybe investigate if you can use IPA to dissolve plaster instead of water.

@Kineth1 3 года назад

IPA? I know that India Pale Ale is disgusting to drink, but can it really be used to dissolve plaster molds?

@marksworkshop8724 3 года назад

Not sure if this is sarcasm, but IPA stands for Isopropyl Alcohol

@darkwinter6028 3 года назад

Mark Carbonell - which, of course, you don’t wanna drink....

@nickvencill7752 3 года назад

Great advice, and even better motors! Love ya guys

@featherboards1565 3 года назад

A hammer drill with a reversed bit can also be used for vibration.

@pyxiscarena1482 3 года назад

Hello, I use the same technique but with some difference: 1) I don't use Plaster of Paris, but two-component silicone, much easier cleaning. 2) I don't use vacuum, but I put under pressure at 5 bar. Have nice day. :)

@IronMan-yg4qw 3 года назад

nice but what were your results?

@jakeengland1430 3 года назад

2 component adhesive is too ductile id say use investment its a type of casting plaster which melts away better in water

@ToxNano 3 года назад

@@jakeengland1430 I think he's talking about mold silicone, not adhesive. Silicone wont stick to anything beside itself so you can just cut the mold in two and remove the part. It might even be possible to reuse the mold, depending on part geometry.

@IronMan-yg4qw 3 года назад

@@jakeengland1430 i see thx

@agapiosagapiou 3 года назад

Yes!!! Brilliant!! in mass production!!! 3d printing it starts to get real big!

@wesmatchett615 3 года назад

Did you consider some type of release medium coating the part prior to covering with plaster? Like an oil or powder coat. Oil would also reduce absorbing moisture from the plaster.

@Sembazuru 3 года назад

This is similar to a suggestion I was going to make. Basically asking if using a mold release would help getting the parts out of the plaster.

@ryanlangan1060 3 года назад

@@Sembazuru It would also keep the plastic from absorbing water, and then creating steam during curing.

@AwestrikeFearofGods 3 года назад

Great video! Try painting on a watered down layer of gypsum plaster to capture fine details. After letting it dry, paint a thicker layer of gypsum plaster mixed with sand. The plastic parts should heat up more quickly and evenly if you don't submerge them in a large volume of gypsum plaster. Besides adding strength, sand should reduce the degree of shrinkage, steam bubbling, and cracking that occurs when calcining gypsum.

@dontask8979 3 года назад

I saw that bread and forgot what you were talking about.... That looks good!

@ZappyOh 3 года назад

I have annealed parts embedded in two-part concrete-molds made specifically for this purpose. This way I can anneal many parts quickly, and there are no difficulty in inserting the parts or retrieving them afterwards. This procedure is, off course, best suited for relatively simple geometries.

@backyardbasher 3 года назад

Omg that bread looks good.

@TacDyne 3 года назад

I saw that bread... then thought about what we can get at stores here... and cried.

@iamkaioken 3 года назад

Always excited to see a new CNC Kitchen upload! This was really interesting and I'm curious to see how much you're able to improve the process. Prost!

@actualhyena 3 года назад

This checks every tickmark related to modern RU-vid video layouts.

@sarveshkarkhanis1516 3 года назад

CNC Kitchen 2019 - Tweak layers to make them stronger 2020 - This 2021 - "Today, I am going to show you, how to make your 3D prints stronger than steel using plasma vapor deposition" (Not impossible)

@evannibbe9375 3 года назад

That sounds basically like making the parts out of graphene and carbon nanotubes.

@igorfedik5730 3 года назад

Thanks for testing this! It seems like it should work for PETG with 100% infill and heat-resistant mold release. In order to avoid bubbles cover the parts with just a thin layer of liquid plaster solution. And when it hardens submerge it in bulk plaster.

@spacekoaster 3 года назад

Really impressive results! As always, an awesome video Stefan!

@jeremiahdavis7904 2 года назад

One of the things I appreciate the most about my trade school is the free access to the full range of Autodesk programs, they're a must have and well worth the price if you plan on using design as a mainstay of a business venture

@supersupreme 3 года назад

Here is finds, you might know already. I was printing huge containers with PETG, first of all PETGs are different, but I found the one which sticks to hot glass without anything else. Sometimes after bed cooling down, tension in printed item is so high, that it cracks glass, so you need to remove it while it still hot. Secondly, I noticed that printing at highest temp without cooling for PETG makes it the most strength, if you break it it shattered as glass, so layers adhesion is equal to strength of material, but when you print at lower temperature without cooling and lower speed therefore, it retains it plasticity while saves property layer adhesion. So with this setting PETG is like welding to part, rather than placing layers. When you print big parts, "places of welds" have a time to cool down, so if you want to print small parts you need pause printing after printing each layer, to let plastic to weld to each other. Also at high Temps PETG expands and while extruder on a side even with huge retraction, PETG will runout, as the result not enough/constant extrusion for next layer. Like anyway.

@CNCKitchen 3 года назад

I'll think about it!

@muskokaliving2072 3 года назад

These are the kind of tests and experiments that will continue to take 3d printing to the next level. Thanks so much Stefan and also to those who left their experiences in the comments. I'm very excited to try these things out and to make 3d printing even more practical for mechanical applications!

@billyjoe3309 3 года назад

This guy has done so much for the 3D printing space. Thank you!

@CNCKitchen 3 года назад

My pleasure!

@okim8807 3 года назад

動画見てたら、いつの間にかAutoCADのステマを見ていた。いつも素晴らしい動画をアップしてくれてありがとう。

@Guardian_Arias 3 года назад

How about leaving a port open to the infill and inject an epoxy into the cavities basically making the print 100% solid.

@notme4083 3 года назад

Hardening epoxy may melt or soften the part it they are pla and other low temp. filaments

@macrumpton 3 года назад

The problem is most, if not all infills create blockages that would prevent the filling.

@Makex_sweden 3 года назад

@@macrumpton Gyroid infill prevents this issue but im pretty sure someone on youtube already tried filling 3Dprints with epoxy and it didnt work well unfortunately

@OLDFRYEGUY 3 года назад

If I'm not mistaken, in a previous video Stefan demonstrated that epoxy frequently reduces the strength of the print itself . I got the impression that there was a chemical reaction between the plastic being used and the epoxy . Possibly in epoxy friendly filament could be made?

@tinayoga8844 3 года назад

Epoxy is expensive. But if you have small, or high value parts, then it may be a good option. One application I can think of would be in 3D printed cnc router components.

@kurtnelle 3 года назад

Yes! Somebody's finally tried it.

@garyfornow542 3 года назад

This was a really well made video! Very easy to follow along, great pace, proper level of detail and it was entertaining and fun to watch. I just subscribed and I am going to check out your library and it will be great to see what you do next.

@Mech87a 3 года назад

Really excited to see this, have been thinking about trying this for a long time.

@imhavoc 3 года назад

I have never seen what settings you are using for PETG. I have found that the default profile for PETG in PrusaSlicer with fan on for all layers above 3 left me with brittle prints. Raising the temperature and turning off the fan (except for bridges and stuff) increased my parts strength dramatically. I don't have your test equipment or (more importantly) your patience, so I don't know much. Thanks for all the great content and information!

@AwestrikeFearofGods 3 года назад

Yeah it's interesting how everyone claims high interlaminar strength with PETG, but Stefan's tensile and Charpy tests show mediocre interlaminar strength and toughness. I wonder if these are related to his use of forced-air cooling. Perhaps rapid cooling results in a lesser degree of annealing, assuming there is enough time for some degree of annealing during printing. It makes me curious to see the results of PETG without fan, or PETG in a heated enclosure, without post-process-annealing.

@Jynxx_13 3 года назад

Great idea with good results, definitely warrants further testing of this process. You may want to try light weight plaster or using light weight fillers and an ultrasonic bath to make removing the parts easier.

@rdyer8764 3 года назад

I too was curious about using an ultrasonic bath for plaster removal.

@tricksyhobbitses1695 3 года назад

By far the most thorough 3d print testing channel on yt, love this channel

@visionminer1377 3 года назад

Excellent video! Keep them comin! :)

@jondepinet 3 года назад

plaster of paris, as you noted, converts at fairly low temperatures, and includes a LOT of water. and as you heat it, and its converting back to plaster, its off gassing water into your part. this process may be vastly improved by replacing the Plaster with something else, maybe some kind of plaster slip or investment casting. it would be interesting to see the effects of a similar process using compressed green sand as well.

@CNCKitchen 3 года назад

Good point! At 150°C the gypsum releases a lot of steam. Maybe it's worth letting it rest at that temperature a bit to dry it out, before heating it up all the way to the melting point.

@jondepinet 3 года назад

@@CNCKitchen a smaller volume of plaster will also aid in drying times. you might try dipping the parts into a thin plaster and letting it dry then dipping them several more times to build up a serviceable thickness, but not a large block. then drying and soaking the mold for longer to bake off all the water. my concern is that when you get over 150c the plaster is giving off steam, which is being forced into the plastic as the path of least resistance. which is why i think a non gypsum based plaster is the key, some kind of ceramic slip. but as far as i know most of them require very high curing temps which would decompose the PLA. in another thread i suggest sealing the part with wax. perhaps sealing the part with wax, then a smaller total volume of plaster would allow the steam to exit the mold, and not enter the part.

@Harko- 3 года назад

Very interesting results! Could you perhaps use “green sand” instead of the plaster? It’s the type of sand that’s used for casting metals. I would assume it does niet contain water, and it seems to break away from the part relatively easy. Thanks for sharing all the great work!

@aman11283 3 года назад

Green sand for casting contains water. 2-4% according to here: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sand_casting#Green_sand

@ipodhty 3 года назад

I don't think that would be hard enough. It would still move under warping

@nonfam4594 3 года назад

Great results and nice bread :P Awesome work!

@Reman1975 3 года назад

I've never owned a 3D printer, Never used a 3D printer, And never really wanted a 3D printer. I clicked on this video by accident !!!! ........ But it was interesting enough for me to keep watching all the way to the end. I'm impressed that you managed to peak my interest enough for me to happily watch a video on a subject I've got very little interest in. That alone was worth a like. :D Right, I'm off to look for more videos on hobby grade milling machines. :)

@RoamGaming 3 года назад

I see Autodesk is attempting to deflect attention away from their poorly received changes to the Fusion360 licenses.

@column.01 3 года назад

Yeah there was a decently length discussion about it on my comment about this exact same thing :) Some people feel they can do what they want and others are disappointed

@RoamGaming 3 года назад

@@column.01 i think both are correct. they can do what they want and we can be disappointed. i just finally gave up and purchased solidworks.

@3er24t4g1 3 года назад

You should he able to dissolve away remaining acid with a weak acid like vinegar

@THEOGGUNSHOW 3 года назад

I'm glad that someone did a video on this finally. I suggested it before, but I'm not sure which channel. Great video!

@fntsmn 3 года назад

Great Experiment! Fascinating results!

@Madmax23419 3 года назад

Make two halves so you can reuse the malls, just like casting

@g60force 3 года назад

malls?

@KJMcLaws 3 года назад

@@g60force I wonder if it's supposed to be molds and it is a typo

@angelorf 3 года назад

@@KJMcLaws In Dutch it's 'mal', so maybe a translation mishap

@fischX 3 года назад

you could try to make the molds just with dry gypsum only harden it with compression - it would be easier to remove and even better no moisture :)

@JC-XL 3 года назад

Exactly, I was thinking the same throughout the whole video.

@gur262 3 года назад

@@JC-XL yeah. Salt won. I think. Would depend a little on surface texture but salt should be completely removable, gypsum might make problems when rinsing and salt is cheapest.

@JC-XL 3 года назад

@@gur262 I don't quite agree. Plaster/gypsum has one very big advantage - it is already ground into a very fine powder. And the salt grinding process looks like a very messy and time-consuming process, and might wreck your kitchen grinder, which is expensive. For smaller quantities 0.5 kg, 1kg salt is indeed cheaper, but for 10kg, 25kg bags plaster becomes cheaper as a building material and we are talking about several bucks anyway. Of course I'm talking about using plaster in its dry form, without water, just as a replacement for the powdered salt, added around the part and compressed by hand. I agree that plaster might be more difficult to remove, not to breake thewhole lump, but just the fine lair in contact with the part that the plastic might stick to, and it's not soluble like salt.

@lucywucyyy 3 года назад

ive been saying for ages youtubers should use the new timestamping feature to make it easier to skip the adverts, thankyou for being the first ive seen to do it!

@KRGraphicsCG Год назад

I just started printing with PETG and I'm already impressed with its strength and resilience when printed correctly. I might try this annealing method and really give my parts strength

@certified-forklifter 3 года назад

i dont understand why autodesk starts sposorings right NOW, when there is so much risk of the community hating them...

@macrumpton 3 года назад

To try and get new users to make up for the thousands they are going to lose.

@totalwayne3089 3 года назад

Why? Was one of their update failing or something?

@Oink_Blaster 3 года назад

Following for info!

@SteffenBauer 3 года назад

@@totalwayne3089 the did not so nice things to the fusion360 hobbiest license

@t_c5266 3 года назад

@@macrumpton but what are they really losing? They aren't making any money from the free users.

@kalebcampbell1261 3 года назад

Any chance at that bread recipe? I can't say I've seen anything like it in the states.

@CNCKitchen 3 года назад

Here you go (very similar to mine. Add Rasins for the extra kick): cookpad.com/uk/recipes/155897-hefezopf-german-bread

@matts2581 3 года назад

Way chill idea and results! :)

@mudaserawan1457 2 года назад

Thanks for the excellent work, this helped me a lot

@Jynxx_13 3 года назад

After watching Angus' video about the major changes to Fusion 360($$$) I'd be reluctant to promote Autodesk. Great channel and vids regardless Stefan.

@Sean-ow8rf 3 года назад

Only need a thin layer of plaster around the part to maintain dimensional stability. That will also make it easy to to remove water moisture. Amazing work my friend.

@theMuBot 3 года назад

I'm currently trying to figure out the price-to-quality curve on a completely unrelated type of product where not a lot of hard data exists, and it makes me appreciate Stefan even more than I normally do.

@kikicakez 3 года назад

Screw Autodesk, they're nerfing the free version of fusion 360.. Fascinating way to aneal prints though, never would've considered plaster myself.

@gaminggami4138 3 года назад

Fuck Autodesk, they are limiting access to hobbyists, they treated them like early beta testers for Fusion 360 and now that they have a complete working product with a lot of people knowing how to use it the put restrictions upon it. They work just like drug dealers, getting you hooked up on their drug for free and then making you pay to use it. This is what they always used to do, i wonder why they took so much time to enforce it on Fusion 360.

@mr1enrollment 3 года назад

I stuck with OnShape and am happy. Of course I learned SolidWorks first which helped. Hopefully OnShape won't fuk over hobby crowd later on too.

@TheMikolasZuza 3 года назад

I'm going to play the devil's advocate here. So is Autodesk supposed to develop and upkeep Fusion360 for free? Why? What is wrong with keeping the product free during development, letting people use it, and then changing the licence once the product is more complete?

@BladeWalker91 3 года назад

*laughs in pirated Autodesk Inventor Professional*

@certified-forklifter 3 года назад

@@mr1enrollment you know what the terms of use of onshape is, i hope?

@connecticutaggie 3 года назад

Interesting; but, this seems to require almost as much effort as lost PLA and with lost PLA you get metal parts which are MUCH stronger.

@frickezthias8638 3 года назад

But dont you have to have metal?

@zakkus 3 года назад

this has the advantage of not requiring a proper forge. Granted getting access to an anneling oven is also not easy, but is suspect just melting the PETG in a regular oven may get you similar results

@connecticutaggie 3 года назад

@@zakkus You don't necessarily need a forge to cast metal. There are several alloys that melt a temperature low enough to use a kitchen oven or torch to melt them

@AngelshipAC130 3 года назад

You should do a compilation video of pure results so that it's the most informational video on 3d print strength ever

@nathankehoe3696 Год назад

Wow the amount of talent this guy has is amazing.

@CNCKitchen Год назад

Thanks!

@anotherriddle 3 года назад

@CNC Kitchen I believe I left one or two comments in the past, suggesting to use salt as an embedding medium. You can bond it with water and it is easier to dry and easier to dissolve. I will document my results better after my next test and share (I finally have my own 3D printer). It's something I would recommend to try. It has some significant advantages to plaster but also some disadvantages. You can fill the salt inside your print (with suitable support) and only have a small opening to dissolve the salt on the inside. It makes post processing a lot easier Also, you can have the process be a lot dryer than with plaster.

@ZappyOh 3 года назад

This is very interesting ... would definitively like to see a video on that topic.

@kylek29 3 года назад

Excellent video as always, love to see the scientific approach to testing these things. Also, I can't help but laugh at AutoDesk here, given they recently ticked off a good portion of the Maker community.

@Kineth1 3 года назад

I missed that. What did they do to tick off the makers?

@woodwaker1 3 года назад

@@Kineth1 They are changing the rules on Fusion360 free version. I was just starting to learn it, now going to switch to another program, probably FreeCad.

@jeffvader811 3 года назад

@@woodwaker1 Ah heck what are they changing? I only just learnt F360.

@woodwaker1 3 года назад

@@jeffvader811 They are changing what the free license can do. There a lot of videos out about it. Here is one ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5EOiuTu14tI.html&ab_channel=TFI

@BM-su7kc 3 года назад

this is a brilliant idea you got sir!

@Ultrasonictwo 3 года назад

it's all about heat resistance to me ! ..nice work i never thought of plaster casting them to prevent warping .. wonderful idea

@DavidClunie 3 года назад

What are your thoughts on the gutting of fusion 360 by autodesk?

@macswanton9622 3 года назад

try high temp silicone, and treat parts with mold release agent

@alexandrevaliquette1941 3 года назад

Ha.... smart kid! Always a pleasure to look at your new clever idea! Thumbs up before the introduction end. Alex from Montreal

@hridaypradhan4999 3 года назад

Brilliant application!

@matbroomfield 3 года назад

That amount of effort is exceeding injection molding though.

@Margarinetaylorgrease 3 года назад

How much is an injection molding machine, and HOW much does it cost to get the molds made up? So the effort goes into a life sucking job.

@matbroomfield 3 года назад

@@Margarinetaylorgrease I was suggesting making your own plaster moulding machine. Maybe I used the wrong terminology.

@FranklyPeetoons 3 года назад

@@Margarinetaylorgrease De Crass Man over at the SteadyCraftin channel just bought a plastic injection-molding machine with a 1-cubic inch plastic capacity. It was a simple model, so it only cost two thousand US dollars for the base unit. Accessories are also expensive.

@Margarinetaylorgrease 3 года назад

@@FranklyPeetoons Everybody should have one.

@ravener96 3 года назад

you can do this with uncastable geometries

@teresashinkansen9402 3 года назад

It hurts my heart to see CNC kitchen promoting autodesk :( they are evil, EVIL i tell you!

@ProtonOne11 3 года назад

Butthurt that they reduce some features on the free license of Fusion 360, are we?

@maxiferrari08 3 года назад

Why I may ask?

@Tunkkis 3 года назад

@@ProtonOne11 I was kind of scummy of them, but it's their product, they can do what they want with it. I'll just look for something different.

@alockworkorange7296 3 года назад

@@Tunkkis totaly scummy to give away a 7k$ program for free

@teresashinkansen9402 3 года назад

@@ProtonOne11 Nah Im not affected at all I don't use autodesk products but is surprising how many like to polish the autodesk knob and defend their shitty market practices.

@Fly_High_FPV 3 года назад

Instead of molding in small buckets, mold them into a thin baking pan...keeps the plaster thinner, so it dries faster, and a whole lot less material to remove. Also allows the heat to transfer to the parts faster so you can spend less time heating up a huge block of plaster, and more accurately get the part to desired temp. Thanks for all the great work, really appreciate you!

@mathbc1984 3 года назад

Wonderful and valuable information !

@finley9054 3 года назад

First Like and comment, I can die peacefully

@Festivejelly 3 года назад

"somehow it caused the water and plaster to seperate" oh lord. You know water boils in a vacuum right?

@fenrir4046 3 года назад

I already knew it was possible to anneal PLA into past 100c heat resistance but this right here.. Is just plain amazing. Basically this means that PLA can be used for automotive intake manifolds and such. Amazing.

@BillTranmer 3 года назад

Been waiting for a vid like this

@sprusedgoose162 3 года назад

Hmmmmmm handicaps free version of fusion starts advertising other products more.🤔

@frickezthias8638 3 года назад

Exactly. They have money to donate to BLM, anti-police and organizations that hate White people though!

@marklewus5468 3 года назад

I watched free spirit’s video about annealing in table salt. he uses a coffee grinder to get the salt particle size very small for a smooth part surface, packs it tightly and then puts in an oven to anneal (re-melt) at 240C (PETG). Very impressive results, and the parts look great too

@TheHaubke 3 года назад

Wow, this is simple yet very usefull.

@fredlight9963 3 года назад

I've used this technique with ABS once - I dubbed it plaster self casting - and it seemed to work great. My wife's food processor (like a thermomix / hot blender) had a plastic coupler that wore out. The part undergoes a lot of stress, coupling the heated blender to the motor. I kept printing out replacements, but they'd last at most a couple of months before shearing along the z plane. The self-cast piece has been going strong for a year now. I printed at 100% infill. For plastering, I kept the container small, kept the mix runny, sprayed the part with vegetable oil and spent 5 minutes manually jiggling and vibrating to get the bubbles out. I left it for over half a day for it to set. Then I bake 2 hours on high in the oven and left for another half a day to cool before hammering to get the coarse plaster off. Finally I soaked in vinegar and then used a water pik to blast the rest of the bits off. There was no evidence of bubbles or deformation, even on the finer gear teeth. One thing that would be interesting to see: what happens if you use this on solid clear plastics - clear PETG, ABS and PLA? If it's really re-melting inside, it should make these internal plastics fuse together into a single blob and it should become much more translucent and clear. Any takers to run the experiment? Maybe something cool like a crystal skull model?

@chrismofer 3 года назад

genius technique, I've done lost pla casting never thought to just stop halfway and get a remelted but dimensionally perfect part 🤔 love it

@jonathanmitchell7411 2 года назад

Awesome work sir

@nilp0inter2 3 года назад

Nice results!

@colonelk3000 3 года назад

This is great info, especially the temperature resistance, as most of my projects are for car interiors that get pretty dang hot in the sunshine in summer :)

@technodrone313 3 года назад

Another awesome study schteffan.

@garagemonkeysan 3 года назад

Great video. So useful information and lots of work. Mahalo for sharing! : )

@kitebabe05 3 года назад

sehr interessant! informatives video.

@zachreyhelmberger894 3 года назад

Great research!!

@divyajnana 10 месяцев назад

The PETG results were fabulous; strength and ductility!!! This opens up some great options for structural parts........... the bread looked great tooooooooooooooooooo!

@thekidd2323 3 года назад

When you wake up to “and welcome to CNC kitchen” you know it’s gonna be an informative morning

@avejst 3 года назад

Impressive test Thanks for sharing 👍😀

@ravener96 3 года назад

i want more experiments on this, it might be a true gamechanger for some projects

@jabella78 3 года назад

At last I found you are the GreatScott of 3d printing!

@MrBaskins2010 3 года назад

Wow man you’re always thinking way outside the box. Super dope concept

@timpinker1882 3 года назад

We dentists use a split mould technique. The description given by Seecalator on how to mix plaster is good, sprinkle it into water and let it soak it up, mix and then we would use a small vibrating table to get the air-bubbles out. Or bang the container on the bench a few times. Coat the print in a suitable separation medium and then place it embedded slightly into a layer of plaster that fills only half of the height of your container. Let it dry and then paint that layer with separating medium. If there are no undercuts in the model, fill to the top of the container with paster. If there are undercuts pour in a layer of plaster to cover the model and its undercuts. Let this layer set. Coat with separating medium and then fill to the top with another layer of plaster. When you have annealed it simply seperate off the layers, usually by cutting a small slit into a layer and carefully splitting it. If I was doing multiple layers I would do the top, then the thin undercut layer while still attached to the based, and then free from the base. There are solutions that will dissolve gypsum. Good work chap.

@thereddufus 3 года назад

Paint the part with a thin layer of really fine plaster. Painting allows the plaster to go down with no bubbles on the part surface. The part and plaster can then be really properly dried in less than an eternity. Then place the plaster coated part in a bucket and add fine dry sand, vibrating to aid compaction ever ~5 centimeters. Insert in oven. Anneal. Serve a very simple salad. Saw this trick on a VOG metal casting channel video. We are now using it in one of the castings the undergrads have to do in MSE. Works great.

@brandonlewis2599 3 года назад

Very cool idea.

@pablo3996 3 года назад

Stephan, You are my favorite RU-vidr!

@Bjuffs 3 года назад

I used to work at an aluminum foundry where we used plaster molds. We used a high pressure water jet to clean the parts. I also experimented with dissolving the plaster in a saturated solution of water and sodium bicarbonate (96 g/L (20 °C) 165 g/L (60 °C)). The sodium bicarbonate will react with the plaster so it's a good idea to oversaturate it. The experiments showed a great deal of promise. I don't know if the SB-solution would effect the PLA/PETG in any way though. If you plan on making a lot of test hooks i would consider making a two part mold fort the plaster. That way you can dry the mold faster and be sure to have no moisture in contact with the plastic. You then put your printed test hook in your two part plaster mold, clamp it together and anneal. If the mold doesn't crack and your part doesn't stick to much (try mold release) you might be able to reuse the mold.

@TheDirtsky 3 года назад

I just watched a video about heating PETG with Salt powder. That may be another option instead of using plaster as it yeilded some pretty amazing results.