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Triple Z Bed Leveling on a TronXY X5SA 

LilMikey's Big Plans
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I'll never adjust the bed again!!!! Evil Laugh
In a previous video I took a look at my generic Triple-Z solution for cube style printers. I highly suggest you watch that video first as it goes into a bit more depth on how the gantry works, the electronics, configuration, etc: • Triple Z Bed Levelling... . In this video I'm installing that same Triple Z leveling setup into my X5SA.
What you'll need:
A control board or multi-mcu setup with at least seven steppers. I personally use the BTT Octopus: amzn.to/3gfoE0g
A total of five 8mm smooth rods (500mm, four came with the printer): amzn.to/3VxhPr4
A total of three T8x8 threaded rods w/nuts (500mm, three - shorter - came with the printer): amzn.to/3kv8YbV
A total of three NEMA17 stepper drivers (two came with the printer): amzn.to/3CI0UcG
Ten 8mm rod clamps: amzn.to/3eAGsT9
Three 8mm pillow bearings: amzn.to/3s27rtT
Three 6mmx20T 8mm bore GT2 timing pulleys: amzn.to/3EN0SmF
Three 6mmx20T 5mm bore GT2 timing pulleys: amzn.to/3S88z9W
Three small (~200mm) GT2 cable loops: amzn.to/3TqpzJz
Three threaded steel balls: amzn.to/3ty026K
Three round countersunk magnets: amzn.to/3QkNjhu
(note that these claim to be '12mm' magnets but are actually 15mm. You want a 15mm OD magnet for this build)
Two 2020 extrusions: amzn.to/3TphZPu
And a bunch of m3/m4/m5 nuts, bolts, and boat nuts.
If you want to replace your LM8UU bearings: amzn.to/3SbDemO
The X5SA-Specific Gantry Parts are here: www.printables...
The rest of the gantry is here: www.printables...
The entire BigPlans print system is available here: lilmikey.com/p...

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30 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 46   
@medduck
@medduck 5 месяцев назад
i am considering buying an X5SA-500. but most of the reviews are not good. I am looking for a large bed for bigger projects so I don't have to cut and glue. This is a reasonably priced option but haven't decided. Do you recommend this printer?
@johnsowerby6061
@johnsowerby6061 Год назад
hi I'm updating my Troxy and following your previous video which is brilliant. It is going to plan but I have a coloured screen and can't get to all the settings. In this program pronterface m503 it will not show the list is there a way of getting a different screen to solve this problem without buying a new motherboard? My board has only a ribbon cable to the screen. Thanks keep up the good work much appreciated
@LilMikeysBigPlans
@LilMikeysBigPlans Год назад
Hey John, thanks for watching! Unfortunately the M503 GCODE command is not supported in klipper and I don't have a Marlin-based printer available at the moment - however I thought that M503 only displayed settings in the console and not on the LCD. If the only issue you're having is that the settings are not all displayed on the LCD that might a functions-as-designed kind of situation. When it comes to LCDs it seems like most manufacturers tend to select LCDs that only work with their control boards so I wouldn't expect to be able to use the TronXY LCD on other boards or other LCDs on their proprietary boards. I haven't done a lot of work with LCDs so there might be other folks that can offer better direction.
@stephennelms2453
@stephennelms2453 Год назад
Couple comments: 1. In your BOM you link to 12mm magnets, but your STL's accommodates a 15mm magnet. 2. You spec and link to an 8x2 lead screw. Tronxy lead screws are 8x8. Your z motor on the new screw is going to have to operate at 4x the speed of the other two. How did you compensate for this? Has the motors operating at different speeds caused any issues? Having fun expanding on your build, and can't wait to start all the klipper printer.cfg fun.
@LilMikeysBigPlans
@LilMikeysBigPlans Год назад
Great catch on the threaded rod! I am using T8x8 and incorrectly stated and linked to T8x2. I'll update the description and link to match. If you've already purchased the T8x2 I would recommend returning/exchanging for the T8x8 just so everything matches and it doesn't cause confusion down the road however if that's not an option I would think that supporting a T8x2 would just be a matter of multiplying your full_steps_per_rotation by four for the T8x2 rod. You are correct that the link takes you to 12x3mm magnets and the design calls for 15mm magnets. However, those 12mm magnets measure 15mm diameter on the calipers. I'm hesitant to link to a different '15mm' product as I'd hate for someone to get even larger magnets in the order. If you or anyone else has purchased a 15mm version and it measured out at 15mm I'd love to know so I can link to reliable source. I'll update the description to note this discrepancy and that a 15mm OD magnet is required.
@diagdave
@diagdave Год назад
Could you share what glass bed you are using on your tronxy? Looking forward to doing this mod myself.
@LilMikeysBigPlans
@LilMikeysBigPlans Год назад
Hey Dave. I'm using a standard 1/4" tempered glass sheet - although I'd recommend 3/16. I happened to find the 1/4" on sale. Check glass shops, not printer shops for better deals - but be sure to get either tempered or borosilicate glass. My whole setup is TronXY aluminum plate - cork insulation/buffer layer - silicone heater - glass pane - PEI sheet. There's a bit more information on my silicone heater video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yhzWj-oaikk.html Good luck!
@diagdave
@diagdave Год назад
@@LilMikeysBigPlans thanks for the reply, I'm off to watch your other video now and going to subscribe.
@benhammond6960
@benhammond6960 9 месяцев назад
Would you recommend going for the 400 series or the 330? Are there other printers you would recommend?
@paradiselost9946
@paradiselost9946 Год назад
i just dont get the need for extra complexity. i havent touched the level on my bed except when i accidentally push down on one side. and then, its just a matter of pull the head to each corner and adjust the screws. then adjust the Z offset. can level it about five times in the time it takes the auto level to make the first probe. and nothing fixes the bed being warped anyway. other than being smart and using four small beds... keep meaning to maybe fit the belt and one stepper. whatever. not enough of a bother. some people hate these things, i found its got a few quirks but its definitely tolerable. hell, i havent even changed firmware yet, thats unusual for me. i guess its working more often than not so i havent gotten frustrated enough to really do anything drastic yet. really, i am the person that pulls things apart in the first five minutes. like the extruder. still tolerable. not perfect but whatever, it isnt giving me issues for what im doing. not a fan of it but its working. i think its money well spent. halfway through a four day print at the moment... and wow, its the full build volume.
@py2bnd-sota411
@py2bnd-sota411 Год назад
Thanks for Your inspirational videos about Your X5SA mods. Very helpful indeed! Actually I'm going a little bit further designing the parts to use a genuine 400x400mm Radrig V-Core 3.1 build plate. This will give me a bigger and more perfect build surface. I decided to go this way to put out the full potential of a triple Z bed kinematic. In my design I use a copy of the V-Core3.1 mechanic, resized for the X5SA core and some improvements on the ball sliders and the Z guidance. Congrats to Your videos - Very inspiring 🙂🙂😀😀👍👍
@LilMikeysBigPlans
@LilMikeysBigPlans Год назад
Hey PY2BND, glad you found some inspiration from the videos! Are you going 100% with the RatRig gantry? I love the setup but lots of rails and relatively expensive extrusions.
@WalterThayer
@WalterThayer 11 месяцев назад
I have a tronXY X5SA-2E how is this setup different?
@johnsowerby6061
@johnsowerby6061 Год назад
Thanks for your messages, I have bought the 12inch rails but can't find any screws to drop in to tighten them to the 20mm vrail. I have bought 3 different sizes but none suitable. I am in the uk can you suggest where I can buy the screws, I have the drop in nuts ok. Thanks for all you valueable help
@LilMikeysBigPlans
@LilMikeysBigPlans Год назад
Hey John, I'm using standard m3 button head bolts and boat nuts for the rails. I'm not in the UK but here's the US versions:amzn.to/3De85uM, amzn.to/3D9YrID.
@johnsowerby6061
@johnsowerby6061 Год назад
yipee
@L3X369
@L3X369 Год назад
Jesus, it's amazing how much people complicates with making these printers actually print ok =))
@sergeantseven4240
@sergeantseven4240 Год назад
Actually, it prints just fine stock. Most of us just like to tinker and make improvements. I've never had any issues with my X5SA. Even with cracked UU bearings. The chitu board does kind of suck though and moving it to marlin from stock was essential to get things like volumetric e and more controls.
@rajgoyal00
@rajgoyal00 Год назад
Thank you for your video. I am still learning things and realized that I can run my sexond stepper using another driver (empty slot) Has 1 extra driver sitting since I got the printer. I hooked it up and enabled Z_tilt with dual Z (diff drivers running the Z Steppers) with a toleration of .0025, which I achieve at max 7 tries. Add the Z_tilt_adjust in the Gcode for every every print in the slicer. Its a whole new world for me. It PRINTS now EVRY TIME..... THANK YOU!
@LilMikeysBigPlans
@LilMikeysBigPlans Год назад
Great to hear! For a printer of this size to still use a single Z stepper driver with no linkage is a bit embarrassing.
@mackschannel3236
@mackschannel3236 4 месяца назад
Hey Mikey, Been using a lot of your mods on my own X5SA 400 over the past couple years. Getting into some more mods on it now such as a ZeroG conversion with a switchwire print head. Now tackling this one but added up around $150 give or take for all the parts (on amazon) So to save some money and use more of the parts laying around from the printer, I have relocated the motors to be incorporated to the lower rod attachment points. This way I can mount the motor with coupler instead of using belts and pillow bearings while using the T8s that came with the printer and maintain height. Will be testing it soon and post remixes when done. ALSO I ended up printing the flush mounted 8mm rod clamps. Gonna see how those hold up. Awesome work though as always!
@colincampbell3679
@colincampbell3679 Год назад
I have the 2020 updated Tronxy X5SA, It has been a pain since I got it. I upgraded the extruder to a Titan, I upgraded the bed surface to a rubber like ultra flex Tronxy magnetic Bed Surface. I fought with it and watched videos for help and now after almost 3 years I am done, I will not fight with it anymore I will dismantle it and use it as spares. I got a Delta QQ-S Pro now and it far beyond the Tronxy in printing. I have a Original G32 board Aquila which I upgraded with a high power all metal hot end and dual lead screws and a CR Touch. It works better than the Tronxy too. I now got a Elegoo Neptune 3 and it is above the rest in printing. I was thinking of replacing the Tronxy with a ANYCUBIC CHIRON 01 which has a bigger bed than the Tronxy and build height 400 mm square bed and max build height of 450 mm and has 25 point mesh bed auto leveling built in. But after some thought I will instead save the £260 that printer will cost here in the UK and save up another £240 and buy my 1st resin printer which be the amazing big Elegoo Saturn 2. which be great to use in place of the Tronxy. Upgrading the Tronxy like you shown be very fiddly and expensive and I don't have the level of know how to do it right.
@LilMikeysBigPlans
@LilMikeysBigPlans Год назад
Hello Colin. Sorry to hear you've had so many issues with the TronXY and I hope it doesn't permanently turn you off of FDM printing. I have a resin printer as well and it's a different beast. Resin is quite a PITA for each print with removal, cleanup, and curing but the results are amazing. Where-as with a properly tuned FDM it's pretty much fire-and-forget for large parts - and just rip the from the plate and go about your merry way :) Either way, best of luck with the hobby. It's a lot of fun when it's not a huge PITA.
@colincampbell3679
@colincampbell3679 Год назад
@@LilMikeysBigPlans Hi Again.. Thank you for replying. I have a update for you. I tried again to redo the Tronxy X5SA to level it and maybe print n the original flat aluminum metal bed as the rubber ultra flex Tronxy one was rubbish it would not stay stuck down to the magnetic base once the bed heated up to around 70 C. So I will now have to just give up on having a big xy core printer. I have the new Elegoo Neptune 3 printer and it is great since it has auto leveling bed system. And PEI bed sheet. In fact Elegoo just released two new versions of the Pro version of this Neptune 3. They have direct drive extruder and PEI bed and even better leveling. But they are bigger bed sized. The Elegoo Neptune Plus has a bed size of 320 mm and a build height of 400 mm. ( so the bed is only 10 mm smaller than the Tronxy X5SA ) www.elegoo.com/en-gb/products/elegoo-neptune-3-max-fdm-3d-printer-massive-printing-size-of-420x420x500mm The Neptune 3 Max, it is a whole another level. with a bed of 420 mm x 420 mm and build height of 500 mm www.elegoo.com/products/elegoo-neptune-3-plus-fdm-3d-printer-with-larger-build-volume-of-320x320x400mm at $350 for the plus and $470 for the Max they look great value I hoping to get the Max or if my limited money can't reach that I get the plus? As for the Saturn 2 by Elegoo I did get it just before Christmas 2022. I also manged to get their bigger wash and cure stations too. and used some of their Elegoo Water Washable Resin. I did some stuff But now hit a big problem? I can't dispose of the left over resin that is in the water of the wash station, To dispose of the resin waste the idea is to place it in a clear container out in the sunlight to set the resin left in there. Then throw the resin solid waste part away! The water left should be filtered through carbon filter like a water filter jug. I did the filtering but no improvements. as for the solid part I can't set it as sadly the UK has not the sunlight it seems to do so? So I had to store it in a plastic container of 10 liters size with clamp on lid as there is 7 liters each time from the washing unit to do the bed plate and models fully! Someone said maybe use a big UV lamp to set the resin in the washing water, But I looked them up and they are very pricey in hundreds here in the UK. I have now 14 liters of the waste water ( two washing full loads ) The resin system was very price.. So I will clean it up since it is almost new and sell it. Shame I know! But even if my local council does dispose of this waste water, I will still need to transport this toxic water to their site without a car to do so! They are many miles form me. So sadly this resin good as the models it did are, it will have to go then later on I maybe can get the council to dispose of the resin water! So I sticking with FDM now on. As you said more easy to deal with than resin. ( okay if you live in a very hot place the resin setting be easy ) So there you are, A total pain. hopefully the Elegoo new bigger bed printer I get will solve big printing needs? Hop you keep doing well? 😉
@assin3223
@assin3223 Год назад
HI! The specific gantry parts link is broken :( Love your videos
@LilMikeysBigPlans
@LilMikeysBigPlans Год назад
Hello Grzegorz. I tried each of the links and they appear to all be working. Which ones specifically were having an issue? Maybe it was a temporary problem at printables?
@assin3223
@assin3223 Год назад
I still cannot acces the Specific Gantry link, It throws me 404 :(
@Sunbound77
@Sunbound77 6 месяцев назад
This is what I eventually want to do with my X5SA pro. I'm upgrading to a manta M8P v2 in the near future, so I should be able to do whatever I want with that board.
@havemannolaf
@havemannolaf Год назад
Cool
@Ox7995
@Ox7995 Год назад
This is an awesome work, should this work on a 330 tronxy x5sa? thanks
@LilMikeysBigPlans
@LilMikeysBigPlans Год назад
Hello Alberto. Yep, it should work with the 330 as I don't believe they changed the Z gantry on any of them - and even if they did the kit is designed for any cube printer so it would at worst be some minor modifications. If you hit any issues let me know.
@Ox7995
@Ox7995 Год назад
@@LilMikeysBigPlans i want to buy an tronxy x5s 330, to upgrade It to vzbot, and your triple z is just what i want, easy an chep triple z. Voron trident have It but its need 3 linear rails, and i dont think that this rails will ley you any improvement
@Shreddinupinhere
@Shreddinupinhere Год назад
Does anyone have a resource for an install guide on the octopus board? I know it is not a straight forward install as the ribbon cable has to be removed and new wires have to be made for the detached board up top.
@sergeantseven4240
@sergeantseven4240 Год назад
Im excited to try this but some of the amazon links appear to be broken like the magnets...
@PaganWizard
@PaganWizard Год назад
You showed what needs to be changed in Klipper to make this work, can it also be done with Marlin??
@nick138
@nick138 Год назад
Might have to do this, I could never get my X5SA bed leveled. The numbers are all over the place.
@carlton997
@carlton997 Год назад
Hi. Just found your videos and you have me convinced to get a 400. With that being said do you have any ideas for a good enclosure
@multihobbyt
@multihobbyt Год назад
Thank you. The best Tronxy X5SA upgrade project on your channel.
@DeprisaDryICeBLasting
@DeprisaDryICeBLasting Год назад
I have a tronxy 500 pro it will be that I can upgrade for your innovation I will also change the motheboard as soon as possible
@LilMikeysBigPlans
@LilMikeysBigPlans Год назад
Hey Anti. I know the Pros have upgraded rails but I'm not sure what else may have changed. If you set this up in your 500 I'd love to hear how it goes and see some pics! Good luck!
@grbii916
@grbii916 Год назад
Do you have a video of setting up the electronics?
@airheadbit1984
@airheadbit1984 Год назад
So many questions: What firmware supports this setup? Can Klipper support this? Is there a defined G code for three Z motor axes leveling?
@HitLuca94
@HitLuca94 Год назад
Klipper supports this, the command should be Z_TILT_ADJUST
@waynejohnson6032
@waynejohnson6032 Год назад
Do you happen to have an stl of the motor mounts?
@LilMikeysBigPlans
@LilMikeysBigPlans Год назад
Hey Wayne, the motor mounts are part of the main Z Gantry: www.printables.com/model/240093-three-motor-z-gantry-big-plans-printer-system/files. Good luck and shout if you have any issues!
@waynejohnson6032
@waynejohnson6032 Год назад
@@LilMikeysBigPlansI'm embaressed!! I totally overlooked those parts! Thank you. Looking forward to starting my build.
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