As a gift, I recently received a non running, but complete, 79 t140. Your videos have been very helpful with my confidence in tackling the various services it will need. Thanks!
Just finished up the carburetor overhaul on my E model 140. Promised to do it over Winter, but now it’s April. Very happy with the results, good balance, pilot jets adjusted etc. Idles well, throttle response quite good. Starts very easily, hot or cold. Satisfied. Putting the air box back together is the thing on this. Spent all evening on it, with occasional profanity,. It’s on and good. Bike is about ready for a shakedown run. Still a bit of road trouble yet here in Alaska. A week or two more and I’ll give it a go.
The OE springs have a specific length noted in the GD section of the Factory manual. Did you verify if they matched up or possibly were changed at some point? If they match specs, then the ones you received from Progressive Corporation may be wrong for the model year. Confirm w/Progressive. If they were the wrong length, then the proper OE length may be appropriate for your application. I'm a believer in doing one thing at a time. Changing spring rate from standard to progressive, (and possibly increasing length!) and changing the viscosity of fluid amount to possibly three things. How to determine which is a good change and which isn't will be next to impossible. BTW, orientation of the spring has zero impact on performance. None. Contact Performance Suspension if need be. S
Great videos, just bought a 79 US spec Bonnie to restore/improve Where did you get the progressive springs? Also any ideas where I can get the tank properly resprayed? (Same tank/colours as yours) Cheers
Hi James. The progressive springs came from the Classic Bike Shop, Unit 3, Dunlop Road, Hunt End Industrial Estate Redditch, Worcestershire, UK. They sell on Ebay. I got my tank sprayed at Bulldog Custom Paint, 3 Waldridge Lane, Chester-le-Street, UK. Google him, he has a FB page and a website. Great bloke.
@@SongsFromTheSaddle Hi thanks so much for the info, I have already eyeballed Classic Bike Shop and they seem to have everything I will need. I will also contact Bulldog to get a quote. Cheers
Thank you. I do enjoy your videos. Some progressive springs have been on my upgrade list for my ‘76 T140, so very interested in what you think post test ride and whether the 20 weight is the right way to go. Cheers
Another great video. Thank you. Did you use jointing compound on the fork nut threads? I found that fork oil would creep up the threads and leak out unless I used compound or PTFE tape
Please could you let me know what make and type of handle bars you have fitted to the T140? Also the free length of the OE spring should be 19.1 " when new and the standard fork oil should be SAE 20.
Not sure what the bars are Derick. They were fitted when I bought the bike and I have never changed them as I find the position very comfortable. I think they are original Triumph export bars, but I'm not certain.
I've found and ordered a set of bars like yours. They are commonly known as western bars. Part number 97-1870. Also I have just ordered the same progessive fork springs after finding my existing pair were shorter than they should be. Stock length should be 19 1/2". I found it easier to disassemble the fork from the wheel end. Removed the wheel then removed the damper rod alan bolt (the spring tention alows the bolt to be removed without the rod turning) and took the spring out of the bottom. Lastly I loosened the handlebars mounting bracket but left the nuts a few turns. I could then manoeuvre the bars enough to remove top cap and nut.
@@relph3 That's how I remove the sliders when I replace fork seals (I use an impact gun to slacken the bolt and nip it back up afterwards). One word of caution to anyone removing the springs this way for the first time - to avoid injury, or damage to the threads, you need to release the spring pressure by removing the top caps before attempting to remove the damper rod retaining nut from the bottom of the stanchion. By the time you've done this, you gain no advantage by taking springs out from the bottom, so you may as well pull them out the top without removing the damper rod.
All the progressive springs that I have fitted over the years place the tighter wound coils at the top, thats what makes it progressive or have I missed something?
Hagon shocks have the closer coils at the bottom. I can't see it makes any difference to the compression rate, but I suppose there is a minor difference in unsprung weight during compression. I can't believe it makes any practical difference in the real world.
