Hi John, thanks for watching, glad you found me, spread the word! if people take time to comment, then I like to acknowledge that, till I get to a million subscribers anyway ;)
Hey man, I know you can't be a *REAL* motorcycle guy, since the ones on TV shows all have a ton of tattoos and piercings and so forth... Just kidding ya', man; ran across your channel recently and have really enjoyed the content. Happy New Year and keep up the good work!
Good save, was it dropped or just a numpty with a hammer? My tip for this week is, if you have to recut a centre an old turner's trick is to use the centre drill as a form tool instead of as a drill. By this I mean have the 60 degree cutting lips horizontal, enter the damaged cone and push the drill chuck away from you with the cross slide so it only cuts with one lip. What this does is stop the drill wandering about by the damaged crank and properly cuts a true centre again.. Many moons ago I posted pictures on one of the forums where I showed a Norton Inter crank I saved, where someone had had a major attack of hammeritis and belled over the thread. John Stevenson ,of blessed memory, commented that he would have used his 3 wheel thread roller to reform the thread, rather than cut away metal, I wonder if something similar, but using plain rollers, would have worked for you and saved having to remove any metal. ATB c PS the Norton crank was damaged because the owner had taken duff advice about which Loctite to use to hold the bearings in the case. It set far too quickly and before they were fully home, he claimed, poor chap was nearly in tears when he gave me the job. But they were tears of joy when i returned it, I love a happy customer! They are the ones that pay double what you ask, in case you wondered how to tell. :>)
Don't know on the crank, apparently it had been kicking around for a while. Wow, you need to do some videos Chris! Good idea with the centre drill. I have one of those thread reforming tools in the drawer, only got 26 TPI rollers on it, I'll have to demo it on a video sometime. I too have had the really big tip/well chuffed customer on occasion. Best wishes, Ade.
My little shop is so cluttered I barely have room for my feet, let alone a tripod, but I haven't ruled it out. I do some weird things out there sometimes, some of which might prove interesting to easily impressed viewers.:>) The Inter crank had a 20tpi thread, if I should ever get another one to do I would probably make my own thread restorer, they are dead simple to make as you know.
Thanks for the comments and for watching. Yes you could remove the mushroom with a crank grinder, I would love a crank grinder but they are way expensive, and I don't have the space sadly.
I don't have enough experience to say away, but if you were to check part numbers in the spares books from different years that should get you in the right direction. Good luck with the rebuild
Good question. I'm no expert on this but here is my assessment...If the bike is run on modern but 'old' technology oils, i.e minimal or no detergent additives etc, and run in the same way as they would have been 'back in the day' as in low oil change frequency, used daily for work, all weathers and conditions, poorly maintained etc, then I would expect the result to be the same, sludge! If run on modern detergent oils used from a properly cleaned, rebuilt engine starting point, regular oil changes, low mileage, pampered maintenance, then I would expect to see a cleaner, lower sludge engine, but remember, it is still an old tech, cast iron, poor filtration, poor temperature control machine so will not be like a modern one. Anyone else any thoughts? Thanks for the comment, Ade.
@@AGEngineering It would interesting to see whether thevaddition of an oil cooler like that on the trident and rocket three made much difference to this challenge. Thanks for your response. Incidentally, l have a 1980 model Moto Guzzi and the recommendation for oil type in that has changed to semi synthetic that has a broader operating temperature and viscosity range. It is a similar level of agricultural technology, with push rods etc and no oil cooler (although l probably should put one on), But l think as you say, the frequency of oil changes is critical to preventing engine wear and sludge build up.
Olden days oils were relatively low tech lubricants and the crud would settle out in the bottom of the tank and in the sludge trap. Then came detergent oils that kept things clean, no more need for flushing oils when you changed the oil, but they kept the crud in suspension and needed paper filters to save crud being fed into big ends with the oil. So a sludge trap should be fine for a long time, it never was a regular service item anyway unlike some bikes that had accessible traps. Then came multigrades and synthetic molecules but that is another story. The above is a simplified version because that's about my level of competance. So ideally take advantage of modern technology for anti oxidation and acid and all that hi tech stuff but fit a remote oil filter to keep it clean. Remembering that older machinery had slacker tolerances than today and water thin oils might not be best for them, you can get HD oils of thicker monogrades which can quieten engines in many cases. Also remember multigrades were developed to save having to change the oil grades between summer and winter and give car starters and bearings an easier life in the cold, so if you are like the average Harley owner and only use your bike between Easter and August bank holidays, monograde oil will be fine. Again the above is a simplification.
Dave,if you click on the three vertical dots to the right of your message,there`s an edit option. Very much enjoy your vids,as I do Ade`s,a link from which I found your channel.
