I know this is an old clip, but if you're still reading comments I thought I'd say something about that dampness you felt at the top hose. That temp switch sensor tube is not supposed to go under the rubber hose, there is no way it will seal up ( unless you put some silicone around the tube where it enters the rubber??) and the tube might get crushed....the sensor is just supposed to lay on top of the hose. Wrap it on with metal foil. Yes, it won't get as hot as when it's inside the hose, just turn the activation temp lower. Oh ya, there is no mercury in the sensor it's just air pressure.
Crossed my mind that a smaller water pump pulley would increase the water pressure which ought to help improve cooling, this should be quite a cheap and easy fix if the right pulley could be found or made. Keep up the good work.
@@strangeknight3751 if not, you should be able to adjust the bonnet height slightly at the over-rider hinge. or just hog-out the holes in the rad bracket slightly, to drop it down a few mil
@@BritSpit I've been restoring mine over the last two years and it's fought all the way. Just got the engine in and running, couldn't have done it without your videos 👍. Guess which core plug has sprung a leak, going to walk away for a few days 🤣🤣
@@strangeknight3751 Thanks for that, appreciated. I'm guessing it's the one under the front engine cover!? The hardest bit for me was getting the [rusted] screws/bolts out from the timing cover. The rest was reasonably simple. But, yes, give it a few days eh? :D
Those zip ties break after awhile and especially when exposed to heat. At some point they are going to fail and you will have a fan assembly damaging that nice new radiator
