I am from the UK and owned a 1970 model TR6 with 150 bhp. These early 6s always had a lumpy idle; it is believed that Triumph detuned the car to 125 bhp from the 1973 model year onwards principally to obtain a smoother tickover. Yours is beautifully smooth and sounds superb. I will be checking out your other videos to see how you carried out the conversion. Many thanks for a great post!
Nearly correct. The early 150 brake was tested sans all components. The later cars had to be tested with all ancillaries (alternator, fuel and water pump and fan) fitted to comply with SAE regulations. So the differences are a lot smaller. However the change of camshaft resulted in more vacuum so the throttle linkage and manifolds had to be changed to prevent snap throttle movements, and make the cars more driveable. May be worth taking a trip out there and picking up a kit. It looks a lot simpler than the megasquirt system.
The IAC on most EFI systems controls the idle speed and helps prevent stalling. My Jeep will creep up hills in first gear with my foot off the gas and it’s the iac that keeps it running. I didn’t see an air filter. That will can quiet down the whistle.
I am in the middle of this conversion right now. Hoping to get it going after Thanksgiving. Probably a week or two if I need something else in the parts area.
The most time consuming part was the tuning through TunerStudio. Big learning curve if you've never done that kind of work before. I'm still fine tuning things.
Just watched this video. What struck me most was how smooth the engine idles, on a side note I miss the Rockies LOL, You have a great car there. I’m looking forward to your next video. Dave
Thanks! Yes it does idle pretty smooth for a 53 year old engine. It runs really well too. Much more responsive. I’ll hopefully get a driving video out before the snow starts to fly.
good detective work - I'm surprised you can even see a gasket, it's like a mismatch of flanges. Twin carbs never make much sense on a six, these engines are made for EFI or triple sidedraft carbs! Mine was a UK spec so had the Lucas EFI, troublesome fuel pump like everyone says, but the mechanical injection worked just fine.
It’s only been in the low 80s here but idle has remained consistent. Won’t get high temps until next summer to evaluate that. But I have no reason to believe it wouldn’t be consistent.
I was referring to the ignition timing. I’m still running a stock distributor. I currently have it set at 12 degrees BTDC. I believe microsquirt can control an electronic ignition system. I haven’t done too much research into that.
So did you have the oil analyzed after the switch to fuel injection to see if you still had gas in the oil ? If you have a engine driven fuel pump that where the gas is entering.
@@hollywoodd3191my car constantly gets some gas in sump. It may just be fumes, but to get the oil temp to 180 degrees burns off the fumes I’ve read. All cars get some passed rings I’ve read.
I was able to minimize it but it’s not completely gone. I ended up using a piece of 3D printed plastic on the rear port and then sealed over it with gasket maker. Make sure your IAC gasket is tight and the blanking plate it IAC is screwed down tight. I got a wicked whistle and realized two of the screws were loose and it was creating resonance while the plastic blanking plate was flopping around. I ended up just cutting a gasket and putting the IAC valve on there since it’s more rigid.
@@hollywoodd3191 I put the blanking plate on. Both my MAP sensor and O2 sensor failed. I’m thinking maybe it’s burning oil and the zinc is getting into exhaust but I don’t see how.
Just watching how it ran it seems to me that it would be very difficult to get the normal carb setup to run that smoothly and responsively, and even if you could a change in weather would cancel that.
Interesting. I stumbled across this while looking for efi conversions. I'm looking into a 2.3 Chevrolet Vega. I would be interested in talking to you about the pros and cons of a tbi versus tpi.
