The IAC on most EFI systems controls the idle speed and helps prevent stalling. My Jeep will creep up hills in first gear with my foot off the gas and it’s the iac that keeps it running. I didn’t see an air filter. That will can quiet down the whistle.
So … I’m far from an expert … so I could be wrong…. But I think your test equipment is giving you a misleading result. The DIGITAL multimeter is taking a sample of the voltage at some instance in time. And the way the old style stabilizer works is by opening and closing some contacts. When the contacts are closed … you get full battery voltage (~12v). When they are open … you get zip. So unless your multimeter is able to somehow show you the average voltage over time (as opposed to instantaneous). It’s just gonna look like the voltage is jumping all over the place. If you had an analog volt meter … you’d see the needle bouncing up and down as the contact inside the stabilizer open and close. Which is not to say that your stabilizer wasn’t bad. It probably was. But even if it was good … you’d probably still see values jumping all over the place.
This is the best Lucas to Alternator conversion video I've seen. Clear instructions, straightforward thinking, nice problem solving with escellent video shots to guide the viewer. You can save a lot of money and get a far better installation by watching this than you'll get by any of the aftermarket "kits" out there. Absolutely go with A/C Delco, Absolutely !
The Koni shocks you removed are not gas charged so they will not rebound from compression even when new. To adjust them you remove the bump stop, compress them and then turn the top clockwise or counter-clockwise to increase or reduce the shock stiffness. See: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-u_eg9Kwv9NM.html
The clutch looks worn. Mine had ridges and I still replaced it. I also replaced flywheel with findaza. In all likelihood the rear seal is leaking too. It probably should get a sleeve on crank as well do to scoring. I let you know right now, everything leaks oil on this car.
I was able to minimize it but it’s not completely gone. I ended up using a piece of 3D printed plastic on the rear port and then sealed over it with gasket maker. Make sure your IAC gasket is tight and the blanking plate it IAC is screwed down tight. I got a wicked whistle and realized two of the screws were loose and it was creating resonance while the plastic blanking plate was flopping around. I ended up just cutting a gasket and putting the IAC valve on there since it’s more rigid.
@@hollywoodd3191 I put the blanking plate on. Both my MAP sensor and O2 sensor failed. I’m thinking maybe it’s burning oil and the zinc is getting into exhaust but I don’t see how.
You can find the part on eBay. It’s made by ICT Billet Solutions. It’s called a “LSA LS9 LT4 LS supercharger vacuum port 1/8 NPT Hose Adapter Holley High Ram MAP”. Their part number is 551387. You will need to get a right angle hose barb to thread into the adapter if you want to hook up vacuum hoses or anything else.
It isn't necessary to remove the Seats in order to remove the Transmission. To Overhaul a transmission for some oil leaks is stupid. It should be based upon the mileage covered and how much oil is lost during that use. If it's minimal, leave it alone
Optima yellow, Lumenition Ignition system (Pertronix isn't as good anymore). Nice early dual diaphragm distributor. You could upgrade to SU H6 carbs. Add an Emergency / backup hood release in case the primary cable breaks, cheap upgrade with an easy install and pays for itself if you only use it once. VERY VERY IMPORTANT!!!!! Rotate your gas cap 90 degrees (either direction) to prevent popping open in a crash (was a factory dealer notice at one time). Get a stainless steel brake line kit from Classic Tube. Stainless flex hose for brakes and clutch.
The fuel line came as part of the kit but it's 3/8" AN hose line. The fittings are all AN-6 fittings. Depends how you want to set it up and any extra connections you make, which will determine length and number of AN fittings. I would measure the length of the car and add 10-15 feet on. Then you will have plenty of extra.
It’s not a difficult job. Especially with the radiator out to check end float, but there’s other ways around that. Good opportunity out to clean other stuff up too. And check the main engine bearings to see how they’re doing.
So did you have the oil analyzed after the switch to fuel injection to see if you still had gas in the oil ? If you have a engine driven fuel pump that where the gas is entering.
@@hollywoodd3191my car constantly gets some gas in sump. It may just be fumes, but to get the oil temp to 180 degrees burns off the fumes I’ve read. All cars get some passed rings I’ve read.
Beautiful car, thanks for sharing these points. I've been looking for the right one for years... I'm 6'2 but slender build, haven't sat in one with the roof up, but I hope I hope I can fit haha.
I am in the middle of this conversion right now. Hoping to get it going after Thanksgiving. Probably a week or two if I need something else in the parts area.
The most time consuming part was the tuning through TunerStudio. Big learning curve if you've never done that kind of work before. I'm still fine tuning things.
I was referring to the ignition timing. I’m still running a stock distributor. I currently have it set at 12 degrees BTDC. I believe microsquirt can control an electronic ignition system. I haven’t done too much research into that.
The ‘69 has the ignition switch near the gear shift like that. That was standard in ‘69. Although I’ve seen some relocate it to that position. Shouldn’t be too difficult. Just need to lengthen the wires and find a suitable spot to drill a hole.
Im in canada and have a 73 tr6 which I brought over from the Uk in 1990 I moved to canada in 1980 and eventually shipped the car over when mum passed away, it was a traumatic time haveing to deal with everything and I couldnt get waht I wanted pricewise for the car so I had it shipped over, I have owned it from new with 47,000 original miles on it, totaly rust free and was running perfectly . I had imense trouble getting it registered due to emission laws here finaly did in 1997 but didnt run properly and has sat garaged till this day , Ive never been able to find any mechanic who understood the mechanical fuel injection set up and spent hundreds and hundreds of dollars on mechanics who tried thier best but results were next to useless, I found your you tube and was very interested in what you achived with your set up and thought you could advise me on how to move forward with getting the car running again im 76 yrs old and would like to enjoy it with what time I have left on the planet pluss I have more time as being semi retired now , my email is billory14@yahoo.ca, if you have time to get in touch that would be appreciated if not I understand due to everyones busy lives regards Bill Gregory
@@hollywoodd3191 Nothing like knowing that you have the part, but can't find it until after you've already installed the part you had to reorder. Poof, then it magically reappears.
Just watching how it ran it seems to me that it would be very difficult to get the normal carb setup to run that smoothly and responsively, and even if you could a change in weather would cancel that.
I am from the UK and owned a 1970 model TR6 with 150 bhp. These early 6s always had a lumpy idle; it is believed that Triumph detuned the car to 125 bhp from the 1973 model year onwards principally to obtain a smoother tickover. Yours is beautifully smooth and sounds superb. I will be checking out your other videos to see how you carried out the conversion. Many thanks for a great post!
Nearly correct. The early 150 brake was tested sans all components. The later cars had to be tested with all ancillaries (alternator, fuel and water pump and fan) fitted to comply with SAE regulations. So the differences are a lot smaller. However the change of camshaft resulted in more vacuum so the throttle linkage and manifolds had to be changed to prevent snap throttle movements, and make the cars more driveable. May be worth taking a trip out there and picking up a kit. It looks a lot simpler than the megasquirt system.
good detective work - I'm surprised you can even see a gasket, it's like a mismatch of flanges. Twin carbs never make much sense on a six, these engines are made for EFI or triple sidedraft carbs! Mine was a UK spec so had the Lucas EFI, troublesome fuel pump like everyone says, but the mechanical injection worked just fine.
