This is a head for a 1966 Triumph TT Special that is need of a modification. The bores for the pushrod tubes need to be machined deeper. Follow along as we get the head set up on an angle plate and get it properly centered and machined.
Just now finding this channel. I'm 22 and an aircraft mechanic by trade, but my father and grandfather were both engineers and I guess their ways transferred to me as well. I really, really enjoy these videos. The knowledge and craftsmanship, though process, perfection dimension-wise, etc. just plum sits right with me being a perfectionist myself. Not everyone can do what you do, as well as you do. I sure wish I could. I hope to get into machining as a hobby one day. Keep the videos coming and thank you for taking the time to do these videos for people like me and all your other followers to enjoy!
The Triumph T120TT was developed here In the US and specially made and imported for American dirt track racing (class C). In the USA TT racing consisted of left and right hand turns with a jump. This bike was an out of the crate ready bike to compete with HD KR flat track bikes. I wish I still had mine.
I think you made the right decision by waiting until you talk to the mechanic. Just watching you work with this irreplaceable Triumph cylinder head was very intense. Thanks again Adam.
For me this mod/repair ranks up there with the top hat bushing repair on that HD generator style case that was one of the slickest and most professional jobs I have ever seen.👍
I owned a 1977 Triumph T140 Tiger which like a lot of triumphs leaked from the rocker box covers and pushrods tube seals after many yrs of trying different way and methods of trying to stop the leaks I bought a new set of tappet blocks and then enlarged the oil drain holes in the old tappet blocks and much to my surprise no more oil leaks, I owned that Tiger for 27 years and and for the last 10 years of ownership it never once leaked oil , I am not a engineer or a machinist just a motorcyclist who hates to see engine oil all over the engine and on the ground , so if you have the same problem just give it a try just don't make the holes too big
Bought new, enlarged old? (Tappet blocks)Can you explain? Fixing oil leaks in a triumph is a really big deal. If you have stumbled across a fix we would appreciate a clearer explanation. Thanks.
Oh boy, I can certainly understand why that was a bit of a dicey operation! I can only imagine how rare(and expensive!) that cylinder head must be, and as you certainly already know, it's allot easier to take a little more off than it is to add a little more back! Especially down in that narrow little hole on a casting that's got oil and soot embedded into the Aluminum...TIG welding that to build it up would be a nightmare. Thanks for putting in all of the extra time and effort into the job by filming it for us, that is very kind of you. Have a great rest of your weekend, Aloha...Chuck
Love your videos, reminds me of the good old days working at Rolls Royce machining parts for Challenger tank engines in the UK 🇬🇧. Sadly most of this industry has been lost 😞. Keep the videos coming 👍
I love watching your videos man, I could watch them all the time. The education you give all of us is amazing. And I am sure you inspire tons of youngins to get in your trade. "Knowledge Is Power" Never stop this.
The head you are looking at in the beginning of the video is actually a 10 stud head from a T140E (1979-later) which has the parallel intake ports. The head on your mill looks to be the TT special from the late 60's.
Exactly. I've never had a problem sealing pushrod tubes using any 9 bolt head. This modification is news to me and I've built race engines for 52 years.
I believe that the late sixties 69-70 triumphs had this mod using a deeper counterbore to facilitate the use of a wedding band ring to produce a better seal.
Hi Adam, another great video and actually will be watching this over and over again as I begin to tackle the project I mentioned... lots of good info that will guide me along the way.
Without knowing anything about this my money would be on that the gasket surface would be the best reference for equal depth in this instance. But as you implied, it's easier to remove material than add it back in ;-) Thank you for all your videos, always interesting, educational and entertaining!
4.24: '6 mil' short for 6 mm. It was interesting to hear an American using this term in this way. I have recently begun using printed circuit board (PCB) design software and came across the word 'mil' being used where I would say 'thou', and initially found it confusing. From the sound of it, America is at last moving away from Units Victoriana as my (UK) school teacher called them. I really enjoy watching a craftsman at work, warts-and-all. When things go wrong: we are shown it; we are shown the thought processes on how to deal with problems; then we see the solution implemented. What most people do not realise is that this is the scientific method in action, and craftsmen are scientists.
Love it when you work on motorcycle parts.....my friend has a Boneville TT special.....but is a replica that he built to look like the real thing..still cool though
Hmmfff, 50 year old almost irreplaceable rare and no doubt very expensive Triumph head. Nope no pressure on that job at all. :-) My hands would probably be shaking a bit doing that one. Guess that's what separates the real machinist's from people like myself. But it proves something. That bike shop wouldn't pick just any fool for that work. They obviously trust you with something that valuable and important.
The original head is 50 years old. The replacement is newer so probably closer to 30 years old and less rare to come across. The original is probably worth more than the replacement by a good amount. But the modified head probably produces more power or is more reliable for a road bike.
Just for the sake of knowledge, both ends of the push rod tubes are cushioned with silicone or rubber crush rings top and bottom, so it would have been proper to go deeper and make both tubes stick out of the head the exact same amount. But for the sake of 50 thousandths I doubt the mechanic asked you to cut deeper because it is easy to crush an extra 50 thou. of crush ring. If ya put the tubes in without the cushion washers there is about an 1/8th inch of up and down clearance between the push rod tubes and the head and barrels. With these tubes the one thing you don't want is the metal tubes touching the head when the head is torqued down to the cylinder barrels. That breaks heads. Me, I'd have gone deeper to ensure that doesn't happen. The cushion washers alone are what seals the tubes to the heads and the barrels and even if one cuts too deep and the tubes leak oil, the difference can be made up with an extra thick cushion ring. The newer high temperature silicone cushion ring material is the best to use as the old rubber rings are harder to crush and almost always harden and leak oil. BTW, you do very nice work. Watching you reminds me of Exodus 31:3-5 where it says that "God fills a man with the Spirit of God (the TRUTH - 1 John 5:6) with skill, ability and knowledge in all kinds of crafts - to make artistic designs for work in gold, silver and bronze to cut and set stones, to work in wood and to engage in all kinds of craftsmanship." You possess a God given talent, that's for sure. God bless you and yours.
I thought it was from a 750. Parallel carb intakes suggests a Tiger or non Bonnie version. Didn't think they used 10 studs on the 650s. Perhaps in America?
50 thou on an ol triumph should be no sweat, thay gotta have somewhere for the oil to leak out, or it wouldnt be a triumph hahaha, great job as usual Adam
+Jesus is the man Sadly it happens all the time, and it's just some sour little jealous tweeker that cannot stand for other folks to enjoy life while doing great work. Seems like every channel with a large number of fans like this will find one or two envious losers who think that a thumbs down will affect a Bull like Adam...Heaven knows why? Gladly, Abom lets it all slide like water off a duck's back :D Aloha...Chuck
+Knolltop Farms I really wish the user names were listed for any dislikes. Even more so when there for no good reason. If your man enough to hit that button you oughta be man enough to say why.
+Turning Point That's a great idea, the anonymity of RU-vid breeds the trolling and negativity. Sadly you'll never see such changes, as it wouldn't directly benefit RU-vid.
+lazaglider Sadly I think your 100% right. I see the same few dislikes on Randy Richards channel and some other extremely talented people as well. Very rarely do I ever hit that dislike button and it has to be more than obviously wrong before I will, but I'll always give the reasons for why I did so in the comments. Attempting to use a bench top drill press as a mill would be one example that got me nowhere since logic and common sense isn't appreciated by those who think it's a fantastic idea. :-)
+Turning Point Yeah I reserve it for things like stolen vids and when facts stated are just plain wrong. I see This weeks SNS part 1 got a few more downvotes, I can kind of see why, but I wouldn't do it myself in that situation. I posted a comment expression my opinion of the vid, but it's exactly that, I didn't like it through personal opinion, not because there was something wrong with it per se.
This has always been my major bugbear with Triumph motors. They invite oil leaks with their separate pushrod tubes and rocker boxes. Okay, my beloved Norton motors only have the one camshaft but are such a superior construction. Few leaks and fewer parts. I have a 72' Bonnie motor on the bench at the mo and the only thing I obsess about is leaks from the pushrod tubes which are the later type which this 66' head is being modified for the longer tubes and better seals. If Norton had the investment Triumph had who knows what they'd be like now.
great set up Adam. Just a couple of thoughts, the original reference distance was probably from the head face as if the counter bore was too shallow it would hold the head up off the gasket. If it was too deep then there might not be enough clamping pressure at the bottom of the tube causing leaks. It is certainly easier to remove metal than add it though, so discretion is the better part of valour. Thanks for another great vid. Greg
The 8-stud heads were used up to 1962, the 9-stud heads up to the early 1970s and 10-stud from then until triumph folded. To the best of my knowledge the twin carb Bonneville always had splayed inlet ports. Good job no mater what though Abom.
I can't help but think a different push rod tube is or was available for the different head, if not I'd make a shorter push rod tube before I would modify a head like that, but I'm not a machinist. Ron W4BIN
Abomb i love you thoroughness of explanation, i just want to say one thing, that i will always remember from you: GO SHUT THE FRONT DOOR!!! i use that anytime i can. Thanks. L.C.
You didn't need the calculator to find the difference in the hole depth, just zero out the calipers while holding the first measurement and it will give the difference.
I would say that your Datum is the machined surface where the zylinders connect. from there down to the crankshaft casing is a defined length (by the cylinders). On the other hand there has to be quite some play lengthwise even just because of heat swelling and shrinking.
indicating them castings is hard work man, nice going adam - bloody limey'production' parts ALL different no lie, but standardization such as youve accomplished ought to be good paying clean work, probably plenty of it too.
Sorry, Parallel intake ports came out for the 1979 EPA model. 1978 and older triumphs had splay ports with an included angle of approximately 80 degrees.
Firstly Many Thanks for the hours of knowledgeable & pleasurable viewing . I think you will find that the 10 stud hole {2 in between the cylinders & parallel inlet manifolds no exhaust stubs/flange} is the "newer" head being they were 750cc first used in late 1978 & went through until Triumph finished production. Triumph had to switch to the parallel inlet configuration to help meet emission control and also changed to Amal MK2 carbies. The other 9 stud hole head single hole between the cylinders forward toward the exhaust {has exhaust stubs/flange} is a 650cc head with splayed inlet. I would assume the issue is with the pushrod tubes because the head/barrel surface has been machined for higher compression which in-turn causes problems with the pushrod tube oil seals being squashed out so something has to be relieved . The heads cannot be interchanged Cheers Darryl
I’ve noticed that you use little to no coolant on many of your projects. Can you explain how you determine what needs coolant vs dry cut. Your videos are excellent quality both in style and content. Your ability to set up various parts and how quickly you dial them in is amazing. Thank you.
This is a question about what the reference point should be. I believe the reference should be the surface that mates to the cylinder. Therefore you will need machine further. You might measure the original from that mating surface to determine if this is true. The customer should have specified that.
I'm not sure if anyone else has picked up on this, but the mod appears to have forgotten about the angle of the sealing faces. It's only a few degrees.. They're definitely not parallel as standard. With the head upside-down and the tubes rested in their holes, the tubes should part away from each other. Hope this doesn't cause issues. If they wanted them like this, then I'd be interested to see what else they've done to the barrels. :)
+Willopotomas You must have missed the entire segment of me getting the existing holes indicated. I showed on my adjustable angle plate that I was at 3.5 degrees.
such a rare part, nice job,,,,, on a humorous note I learned my lesson to never ever never play the drinking game every time you say,,,,,, m'kay,,,, smile
I seem to recall a motorcycle engine (or it might have been some British car) that had adjustable pushrod tubes which could be adjusted for length. Just crank them up until they quit leaking. (Not that any old British bike I ever owned was totally free of oil leaks.) BTW, "TT" is Tourist Trophy. Check RU-vid for [ Isle of Man TT ]. Those guys are completely crazy - 200 mph airborn between stone walls or at the edge of cliffs. The spectators are even crazier; practically getting their noses tweaked by passing bikes.
+Peter W. Meek Please don,t complain about those oil leaks....When I got lost and couldn't find my way back, I just follow the drops on the road. LOL P.-S. It doesn't work where there are many British motors in the area....
I feel like indicating holes would be much more enjoyable with one of those mirrors. Too many lacerations from sticking my head around the tool changer lol
Hey Adam, I love watching you work. You seem to have the perfect mix of speed and care. I like the pace of your videos - you show all the detail but it stays interesting. Can you tell me what indicator holder you are using in the mill spindle? I've never seen one with a quick adjustment like that. Very slick.
Hi Adam, I've done a similar mod to a Triumph Daytona 500 8 stud head. On those there isn't a single hole above the end of the push rod tube, there are two holes, one for each push rod. I was converting to a through hole setup and the better sealing of the later tubes. It's easier to set up with a coaxial indicator.
A good place I would think to measure from would be the head gasket face...That is always milled flat and would make a good reference base.Put a parallel on the face and work off that...What do you other blokes reckon???? regards E
+Ian Craig My first thought too, but because you would be measuring from an angle, how far out/in you are would alter where your measuring device touched the seat, and its readings. Then you would have to re animate Einstein to help with the maths to get any use from that Data. Simpler to just use the face close to the hole and save your MANA points for a better upgrade :) The work is not super critical. The O ring is only an oil seal into an area above which I think is not overly pressurised and mostly splash lubricated, once the oil has been pumped to the head. Great to see a Master at work on a Brit bike. Being a Brit and a closet Biker it is strangely touching. I, however, being a lowly Grasshopper, may be, completely wrong.
Interested to know if it needed to be cut deeper. I did notice that you said while cutting the second one, that it was deeper before you started cutting the full diameter of the bore. Also, to my way of thinking, the reference to the casting height is not important, that cooling fin casting could be at any height, but the mating face of the cylinder head, will always be a known height in reference to the engine block, so I would imagine it should have been measured relative to the mating face.
Adam, Love all your videos. When you made the measurements using the push rod tube, did you try and use a machined area near one the of holes for the head bolts. Looking at the video, it appears that there is a shallow recess in the casting where you were using the calipers.
Hey Adam, great video! I understand the job is what you've been asked to do but i was just wondering if making the tubes to suit would have been an easier job? or is it more along the replacing the tubes would be easier than changing heads line of thought? i only ask as i sometimes build up bikes Cheers Troy
@@rcpmac but changing the pushrod tube length has no bearing on the pushrod length themselves. If you cut the bore deeper or if you shorten the tubes, either way you've got the same distance between the camshaft and the rockers. I think shortening the tubes would have been an easier and less expensive solution (although I have no idea what Adam charges)
Hey Adam Thanks for taking the time on the detailed explanation and showing the set up and alignment. When you work on those one of a kind parts are you nervous? You seem rock steady. ; )
