UPDATE- Hey guys, thank you for watching this video...if this has helped you out in any way please SUBSCRIBE, press that LIKE BUTTON and leave a COMMENT. Please check out these links that may SOLVE YOUR NO START ISSUES. amzn.to/3tvM0jd amzn.to/3xUrWKX amzn.to/3uuLxiA amzn.to/3erjviy Analyze your car issues and ERROR codes and clear them with this Amazingly accurate yet inexpensive OBD2 SCANNER- amzn.to/33rovxg Wireless Scanner amzn.to/3nYbjtb Test your Battery and Alternator amzn.to/2QWtGCU If you would like to help this channel, your donations are appreciated. Cashapp- $PeterLCG Venmo- PeterLCG THANK YOU
All I can say is wow! We clicked on your video to get info on why our f150 would not start and if you new the answer you could have told us in about 45 seconds & I could have fixed my truck before your video was halfway over. I don't mean to be rude at all. I bet a lot of people will go to comment & say oh he already said it.
I am having the same issue. 2017 F150 Lt sport 3.5 eco boost. Full power when I put the key in but will not turn over. Just picked up a started so hopefully this works.
Label the video, BAD STARTER, STEPS TAKEN TO FIGURE IT OUT. Jesus, takes 12 mins of things that didnt work to get us to a point most of us probably have already looked into
Not sure if this will help anyone, but I watched a bunch of videos today trying to diagnose my 2015 F-150, push button start. TL:DR This fix was replacing the battery. Here is what happened: I tried remote starting my truck this morning before work. I heard it try to crank, but it didn’t start. I was having issues with in my remote not locking/unlocking the truck unless I was standing right next to it; so, figured the batteries were getting low in the key fob and I would start the truck when I got inside. I was able to unlock the doors but when I tried to start the engine, I got an error that said key was not detected. Located the intelligent key backup slot and tried starting my truck again… no luck. I replaced the batteries in the key fob and tried again, but this time there was a single-clicking noise, and the engine still would not crank. My next thought was the truck battery is going bad. I took it to O’Reilly’s and had them test it. They said it was good, so the investigation continued. Started watching a bunch of YT videos and reading blogs to find a solution. You would not believe some of the things I tried: • Ensuring the steering wheel lock was not the cause. (I was hoping it was something this easy, lol) • Changing relays and fuses. (Starter and fuel pump seemed to be mentioned the most) • Making a jumper cable to bypass the starter relay to test the starter. • Watched a video on how to test the solenoid with a screwdriver. (Engine compartment was not the same and I was unable to locate the solenoid… probably a good thing) I was at a loss and about to call a tow truck when I noticed the RPM and MPH gauges were bouncy a little when I attempted to start the engine. Found this blog post and the overwhelming response was suggesting the battery as the cause. www.ford-trucks.com/forums/977616-wont-start-just-clicks-and-gauges-go-crazy.html Figured it was either, try replacing the battery or getting a mechanic to look at it. Bought and installed the new battery; and the truck started up with no issues. It would appear a battery can test good from a voltage standpoint, but still be bad. Here is another recommendation: Have someone test your battery and if they tell you the voltage is good, ask them to do a load test. If your battery drops below 8 volts during a load test, then your battery is bad. Good luck!
I just started having the same issue. Wont start. 3 hours later starts fine. Fing junk bull crap they make anymore. And two service guys at ford dealers haven’t heard anything like this.
