I expect this mower will last several seasons with decent care. ru-vid.comUgkx1VWTrayKBdCKAjzAcZ_Eg4dhHTae3LkN also recommend Also, I ran across the problem with it not starting the 2nd time I used it. There is a safety switch which is pushed in by the chute or mulching piece being attached to the deck. I took the cover off and it wouldn't start. Put it back on, no problem. It takes only a minute with 2 easily accessible wingnuts and no tools. This mower starts up first crank each time and it is a joy to use. It also mows in reverse by putting the key to the reverse area after starting and pushing in the triangular button. It will stay in reverse mode until you turn it off. All in all, for my homeowner needs, I really like this mower-and at 70 bucks a cut here in Miami, it's already more than 1/3 paid for itself in a month.
Thank you for the walk through. I have had the same intermittent issue. I cleaned all of the electrical connections with electrical connector cleaner and that initially seemed to help, but it happened again recently. Now I have a next step to try.
Thank you for leaving feedback. Good luck to you with your mower. At the time of recording, the starter in this video was in working condition. Although there wasn’t a lot of time troubleshooting the starter, I would have gone back and double checked it again if the steps and solution in this video didn’t work.
When I had a no crank - no start issue with my scag cheetah, it began as an intermittent problem, which I somehow jumped to the conclusion that it was an ignition switch going bad, (partly because after multiple cycles of the ignition switch it would occasionally start). After replacing the ignition switch failed to correct the problem, i thought it might be one of the numerous safety switches designed to prevent me from killing myself. So, to confirm it was not the starter motor, I bypaased all that crap with a remote starter switch connected directly to the solenoid. Engine started right up. I continue to start it that way...and I still have 7 toes and 9 fingers... too many stupid interlocks. Now my only problem is a small hydraulic leak out of the left control arm transaxle.
I have a Scag Patriot that I was occasionally having starting issues with. Starter would click, but not attempt to start the engine. It will, when it feels like it, start after multiple turns of the key. All of the safety switches appear to be working. Battery is fine. All of the info online aspears to focus on the safety switches or the engine itself, which is not my issue. Maybe I'll change out the Electronic Module and see if it helps.
Thank you for leaving your feedback. Battery may be the first cause. If I thought it was good I’d test it again and/or jump start it. Then I’d check the switches. If switches are ok, I would check the connections. Then I would check the starter and /or starter solenoid if it has one. The last thing I’d check would be the module. The starter was a quick check in this video because: there was no click, it was getting 12v when it needed to and the module in this video was physically expanded from heat as seen from the outside case. Good luck with troubleshooting your issue.
Thanks for the info. Just curious though. After you got it running again what does your ammeter show. Does your needle go all the way over to the positive symbol? If not what does it hover around at half or 3/4 idle?
It looks like the ammeter shows marks for -10, -5, 0, +5 , +10. When the engine is starting it appears to jump almost to +10. While warming up on 1/2 idle or above it's close to +5. Once it's warmed up it appears to move down to between 0 and +5 to (about +2.5 to +3.0). My opinion only, without headlights, etc., anything over 0 is good. I do not know details about the charging system but it likely drops down because this model is designed to mow for hours without additional electrical accessories and high amperage over a long period of time may overcharge the battery.
What were your symptoms? I have a no crank no start as well, but I lost all power while mowing. Ended up blowing the main 20 amp fuse. Put that back in and I have no power to the starter trigger. Good battery voltage. Jumped switches, nothing. Not even a slight click at the starter solenoid. Thank you!
Symptoms were that the mower engine would not crank or start. This happened a couple of times before this video was recorded, but then was able to start and run. Luckily, once started the engine didn't stall. On one of the times it was able to start again the machine was moved to troubleshoot and record the video.
So how did you test the module to find that out?? Mine won't crank or start after it gets warm most of the time. But if you let it set or keep turning it off and on eventually it will crank.
I didn't test the module itself. It ended up as the last guess because of process of elimination by testing the other components in the starting circuit. Along with the physical damage including cracking and swelling, another guess that it was the module was that it was loose from one fastener missing and likely hitting the frame on bumps. One of the flaws I think there is is that the module has no space between it and the frame so the heat builds up from the back and likely swells the plastic case along with damaging components inside.
Without a diagnostic tool specific to the module, if I were going to test the module itself, I would likely use a multimeter and test the leads on the wires going into and out from the module. So I would take the leads on the multimeter and test the end of the wires from the module for voltage similar to using the 12 volt test light for voltage on the starter.
@@TryAdaptLearn I replaced a relay today but it didn't fix it. I guess will try the blade switch next before the module cause mine looks good. If the switch don't work will try the module next.
My issue was the BRIGGS & STRATTON - EFI ADAPTER HARNESS. It's used only on the B&S 37hp EFI motors. There's no clip on one of the connectors and it had slipped out of the socket. I disconnected both sides, blew them out with compressed air, reconnected while fully seating the connector. Finally wrapped the entire harness and surrounding wire in phasing tape while seated. This connector should be heat shrinked not just squirted full of silicone grease. It was full of dirt, grass, and sand. Scag fail.
Thank you for sharing you perspective. Seems like dust and dirt are guaranteed to be on all surfaces for these machines. Although there were no problems with the connection in this video it seems interesting that since the issue was heat related, that they would mount the electronic with no space to vent some of the heat.
Very good video. I have a John Deere Z235 it dies when I put the brake on. One time start again after 20 minutes. Then die again. I jump the battery with my truck and start again. What can be the problem?
If the engine runs properly and stalls (only) when the brake is engaged by the operator, a safety switch on the brake or related electrical circuit may be the issue. If the engine needs a jump start from a truck then the battery is the issue. If the battery fully charged then is load tested to be in good condition the charging system may also be an issue.
Unplug the module. Ground the green wire. Make sure brake is applied, handles are in neutral, and blade switch is off. Try to crank. If it cranks either the module is bad or problem at the interlock switches. This means starter, starter switch, and starter relay are good. DO NOT operate mower with module disconnected. Proceed at your own risk. This information is for experienced mechanics only.
Thank you for your comment including your perspective about video. The video is intended for anyone who is interested in troubleshooting a no start issue on a SGAG or other lawn mower. It also for anyone who just want to watch the process or get ideas about other items to check if they’re mower engine will not start (after the battery is checked.
Yes, in this video, the bad module seemed to cut off power to the engine including the ignition. It seemed that with the SCAG & Kawasaki engine in the video, the module was connected to a lot of the of the switches (PTO, neutral, etc.) and the engine harness.
Thanks for sharing your feedback about the title. Redundant maybe, but I suppose a "no crank, no start" is a "no start" situation that would be unique from a to "a crank, no start". Or maybe people who may just skim over a title of "no crank".
@@TryAdaptLearn Incinerated/no start, no engine/no start, underwater/no start, crushed at junk yard/no start, no battery/no start, no gasoline/no start, ...
