This video is what I call a "bacon saver". Was playing heck finding why my house batteries were not charging. By means of this video, I found out that my converter had come unplugged! Thank you for a great video and lots of help that would have cost a ton at a service center!. OUTSTANDING!
Did you hit it? I don't replace anything until I hit it. Sometimes I'll get a hammer and hit it for a few hours, or days. It doesn't help the equipment I'm replacing but it stands as a warning to the new stuff I put in...
+Maxid1 LOL!! You are too funny!! John is mild-mannered, but I'd have hit it! That is probably why he's the one to replace parts on the RV! It'd be full of dings by now if I had to do it (kicks the tires)! Err!! But then again, it helps he's also an electrician! :P
Great job, does help us newbies out a lot. But one question is what did you put the prongs on to check the converter when the camera was viewing the amp reader? I want to check mine and realize poss to ? and neg to any metal. But i could not see where the leads were when you were checking for ( at this point you were on 10 and not 500 ) power. Thanks and good first time, it is hard to hold camera and explain such a detailed item.
Many RV electrical services have "dirty power" That might be why the rectifier failed. A quick test of the grounding might be in order. There are simple campground electrical testers that make it easier than using a Volt-Ohms meter. I seem to remember a jingle "Test before you rest"
We learn that back in college, EET, Purdue with the old tube type TV's. If all else fails, give it a good smack. I think you need an extra set of hands in your video. The gloves might be a little overkill. If you are scared of electricity, it can be dangerous. You do have to respect it. I've been hit by 120, 240 and 480 Volt AC. 120 is definitely the worst because it won't let go. A 9 Volt battery on your tongue can kind of tingle. Tells you if it is any good. Definitely protect yourself around high voltage DC. Reference: 35 years in the electric motor repair business.
Henry Chenier I have a fifth wheel trailer when I hook up the power cord to my truck it blows the charge fuse in my truck and also when I plug into shore power it blows the shore power breaker any ideas?
Great video!! I understand this was done back in 2015. So, back to my point I want to make clear. Every converter I have had to buy says right on the top of the metal box "DO NOT" install in a confined space. So, my Fleetwood Class A has the converter installed behind the electrical panel which the panel is below the refrigerator. Now, to me that is a confined and "HOT" space to have this piece of equipment installed in. I have had to completely pull the electrical panel and hang it from the cabinet handles so that it is high enough to get the converter out. I now have the second converter installed and I am taking no chances with this one. I have a small fan sitting on the floor blowing cool air into this space until I can find a new location for this converter(every time I am hooked to shore power that is). I cannot believe that the factory would actually install it in this location when it clearly states where it cannot be installed. Has anyone else had this problem????
Couldnt you have checked the converter health by using a multimeter at the battery alone; first with shore power disconnected and then with it connected?
Using a multimeter on DC Voltage I was able to verify converter was charging the house batteries. However My Battery Disconnect Switch was not working properly and would not let charger turn on. Rocked that switch on and off several times then it would close and let the charger get to the batteries. Charger was at 13.63Vdc after an hour. Kind Regards
I not only have the same exact problem but after watching a few minutes of your video I see I have the exact same rv as you also. Same color and all. What a coincidence. Then I checked out some of your other videos and seen your video of your first drive. I watched that video when I first got mine and was looking up information and comparables. I was wondering how the Holiday Rambler has treated you and what other problems have you had since you owned it?
We just spent $8K on a new transmission and the towing to get to the shop was about a 600 a pop! So about 10k on the entire fix while on vacation and it was Sturgeus weekend...not a hotel to be had...we had someone charge us another $350 bucks to spend the night in their treehouse...now that is what I call hometown Take Advantage of the down-trodden! LOL! But we got a great deal on the RV and it's got a new engine and we've completely remodeled it. So, it's still worth far more than what we've got in it. But, it'd been nice to have actually driven it more than 200 miles without it breaking down on us. Now, I'm a bit scared to take her out too far...LOL!! Can't afford to tow it! Did you see my remodeled RV video of this one?
Oh wow. I am Sorry to hear that. What is the mileage on yours? Mine has 40k and when I took it for its first long test run after I purchased it it was a 300 miles trip and the radiator sprung a leak in the tank seal. I replaced it myself and while I had it out I did some research on irv2.com and decided to replace everything on the front of the engine since I was there. I read on somebody's post "pay no or pay later" and that stuck in my head threwout the project. I picked and chose what should just not be worth the trouble to be broke down on the side of the road changing and at the most likely the most inconveniant time possible and just changed it out. I drove drove it from Illinois to Florida and back with no issues do I was very very happy. My biggest fear was to break down and have a story like yours to tell. transmission work is very expensive and when it's a rv I am sure they know they have you over a barrel 😔. I seen a few of your videos but not sure exactly what video you are talking about with the remodel. I need to change my tv in the front and I would like to get ride of the carpet as well for a cleaner look. I want to reapolster the recliner, dinette cusions, and back knife sofa. I really love the way the rv is built. It feels very sturdy and solid. So what ever happened with the converter? Did you replace it with the same one or a different brand/model? I bought a 100a smart converter that I have yet to install. I was just wondering what happened in your situation.
We have 55K miles (48K when we bought it)...other things we replaced, motor on steps ($500) but they came to our house to do it so there was a trip charge with that fee but we wanted someone to look it over really well, they check A/C, heat, generator (it only has 500 hrs on it) and other parts before we took it out, so that was part of the expense. We had to replace the computer last Spring ($360), because the RV wouldn't start and turn over. We just replaced the hydraulics for the lifts that went out at the same time that the transmission went out. We re-supported muffler system at that same time as well. As for the converter, we had to replace that and that worked great! It's doing it's job charging batteries in the winter on low and charging during camping time as it should. John installed for free. He also replaced the older batteries at that time as well. We plan to install back up batteries so if we need an emergency battery, we'd have one extra. Digital Power Meter was a D-69 it was inexpensive...and you need that to check your old your new for working...and the new converter is a Intelli Power 9200; it has TWO outlets so you can service two sets of batteries. Here is the video link to John installing that second convertor...I will connect the three videos as I thought they were connected already...I appologize for that. How to INSTALL a RV POWER CONVERTER video link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-i-wwntgNeTs.html Tour Our Remodeled RV video link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hD2Lcc2R_pg.html Troubleshooting RV batteries ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-l7cLfC6J624.html
$500.... the magic number! That is what is came down to when I bought mine, the last $500 was the make it or break the deal factor. I never got to see the furnace, water heater, or refrigerator working before I made the purchase. Nor could seller get the genororator to stay running or show the condition of the awning. I would not pay the extra $500 due to these shortcomings because I knew they could either be an easy fix or costly repair or replacment. He eventually seen my point and agreed so I purchased it. luckly I had a friend that was firmilier with how all the systems worked and everything checked out. The $500 did come in hand later tho for the $800 radiator! 😭 (part only) I did all the labor. I heard a shop would have charged $2500 for that job.
in the video the converter Output (while in RV) was too low. Mine is reading 16 volts, too high. I assume it is a problem with the converter. It is making my batteries boil, and my fridge won't work off of electric, but it will off propane. It is reasonable to assume the converter malfunction.....right? Thank you for your video
Mine is showing 13.7v (within tolerance of the 13.6v rated). The only thing is a lot of multi-meters are calibrated wrong and give really innacurate data. It doesn't matter if they are $5 or $500, when they are not callibrated correctly, they all show the wrong values. Sounds like you have a faulty one if you're sure the meter is fairly accurate. For calibration: There is no super easy way to check accuracy since nothing really puts out what it says. The best I've found is using a gaming computer system, turning off all but 1 core, run at 1 Ghz, and set Vcore to something safe (like 1.200v) with no LLC and calibrating from the measurement you read on the inductor chokes at the VRM.
First, if it's boiling your batteries, they could explode and that doesn't have to with calibrating anything at this point; you need to first understand what is causing it. I would first UNPLUG your unit from the A/C and I would undo your batteries as shown in video. I am strongly thinking it is your converter. It could be over-filling batteries and can cause a chemical reaction...over-charging can cause a boiling of fluids in battery...but that again would be due to the converter. Boiling can decrease batter life and it's dangerous. Wear protective gloves and protective matt that is disposable to get batteries out of RV...you have to clean that area in RV drawer...paint with corrossive resistant paint. I would take batteries to auto-zone and have them checked while your at it. Then take out your converter and have it checked with an output meter (as seen in video). If it's putting too much power out then you'll need to change the converter. Even if it reads okay...you can still have a bad converter. I would get a better converter and one that regulates the charge of the batteries. I would put the meter on the unit if it doesn't come with one. That way you can see how much voltage is going to the power in the RV. If it's too much, you can turn or unplug something...I think it most certainly is your power converter. Most meters are calibrated when buy them. They are not that much off...generally...you can tell if their an issue...if your batteries are boiling...they are getting too much power to them. That power is not being regulated...that means it's your power converter...in a car it could be a voltage regulator...a ground wire...or a alternator. For the RV it's the convertor...that's about all it can be at this point...start there... good luck! They are easy to replace and you can save hundreds doing it yourself...just be cautious and disconnect batteries in the right order as shown in video...let me know!
I am having trouble with my converter shutting down in the winter time its mounted in a outside compartment that gets no heat. I plug in a hair duyer and put a little heat in the bin where its located and everything works fine. It usually takes about ten minutes of heating. what could be the problem with that?
What type of converter is it? what state do you live or store the RV in? You can download the manual to your converter online in most cases. There is a temperature range within the converter, like with all electronic equipment. You don't want to 'melt' the wires and cause degrading in the converter, so you may be heating it too much. Humidity and temps can affect your converter; most will rebate at about 45* C (about 113*F), and depending on your converter, there is a low temperature and environmental factors that come into play as well. Look at your manual first, to see the type of converter or inverter that you have and the temperature range it must be maintained in. It may need a warmer, like you put on a battery to keep it functioning but you need to ask the company first as that may degrade or otherwise cause electrocution. You definately don't want to mess up the ground. Water itself is not conductive but the minerals within the water that is the conductor. If you crack or alter the converter you could be shocked or even mess up your converter. There may be a very simple solution for your area and your converter type. Again, I'd have to know more about the actual converter and download the manual to actually research this issue. Let me know! I know this is not the answer you wanted, but the ounce of prevention is worth saving your life and your equipment's life span. Cold just hurts some equipment at a range of temps. You many just need to keep it in that 'functioning range' of temperature. -- John
They clearly are. Three cells each, joined by a single cable with the main lines running to one each. If they were in parallel, there'd be one more cable, and the two main lines would both be in contact with one of the secondary cables.
Here comes the insults from a minor leaguer!! You're minoring in the majors, buddy! The first thing is to make sure that the BOIL over batteries are safely dealt with. In Vietnam (and my father was a lineman) I learned Electronics/ Microwave Systems Operations Repair... Later, I became a military nurse which led to military surgeon...and taught (in Iraq) Mass Casualty Medicine as the Head Teacher in Balad. I'm sure if you google it...you'll find it online. I've nothing to hide. I've got 31 years of Full-time, Active-Duty military service. I wasn't using a cheap Fisher Price Meter; the meter I was using is sufficient and accurate enough for this job. Calibration was not her first issue. You should be more concerned about this person, whom is dealing with a battery boil-over, not getting burned from acid over-flow. The possibility is that the batteries can explode in her face...but I'm sure I'm licensed to deal with that kind of injury too! I know about calibrating meters...but it is not the MOST IMPORTANT thing here...I have an expertise in Electronics ...and I can do electronic repairs up in the sky, while getting shot at! Can you say you have that same experience, and lived to tell about it? Quit downing people you don't know or agree with. It can get someone injured. Blessings.
In most RV's you have two power sources; one is 'battery' and one is 'plug-in (a cord to a service outlet). Size of power cord depends on your RV. It could be a 30 amp, 60 amp...etc...service. So, start as you would if you were servicing your house; 1.) Check breakers first. Flip them in the on position and make sure they are labeled properly; this usually takes two ppl when flipping breakers and checking volt meter on outlets as they come off and on, in each area. 2.) Unplug everything and see what is still running on batter power next use a DC current meter (DC current and alternating current are different, be sure and switch it over on your multi-meter). Make note of these items from the service box. 3.) Then plug your RV into the 30 amp service (or 60 amp) depends on your RV and start tracing the power lines to each appliance and each outlet that is having trouble. It could as simple as a ground issue or you might have to run another wire from the box to your water pump/outlet. JUST MAKE SURE YOU TURN OFF POWER BEFORE touching anything after tracing powerlines with a voltage detector (cheap at menards). Ideas to check for: It may be a faulty breaker or your pump may be out. You may have to run new wires from the box as a rodent may have chewed through them. But since your lights are not working and the waterpump as well; are they on the same breaker? So, breaker, pump, wire?? That is really all it can be. That breaks it down to look for these three things in a check off list. I hope this made sense. Do not shock yourself; be safe and careful. Hiring a professional is always best. You'll need to be able to use/read a multi-volt meter to do this job. You'll have to have a basic understanding of wiring and know the difference between alternating current and direct current and how it functions in your RV. What state are you in?
What I would do check the control panel and that tells gray and black tank levels,water and battery charge. With it plugged in you should read full battery if not its your converter. but make sure all the breakers are on and fuses good.
Thanks for the video... I had the same problem, and mine too tested OK on the bench but not in the MH. I replaced it anyway like you and the new one functioned as it should...
Oh-- I'm not good with camera and edits...that's my wife's field. I will look at video and see if I missed a clip when editing. Thanks for letting me know -- John
on our rv we ended up losing the power on the fridge and microwave. There is no power in the microwave if its connected to a 30 or 50 amps but if I downgrade to 120 v the microwave works fine. The fridge still no power. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks
Was your microwave or refrigerator replaced with a standard house model at any time? You have two choices: In your rv information book there is a wiring diagram for your rv electrical system; if you can read the diagram then you can find your answer there. However, if you can not read a wiring diagram, here is a simple way to find your problem; 1. Disconnect all power sources to the trailer. 2. Make sure your batteries that power your RV are disconnected. 3. Take a pc of paper and draw a picture of your circuit breaker box. Take the cover off and look at the wires. What type of wires do you have? 4. With a volt meter place the settings on OMs. With a volt meter when you press the metal tips together it should read 'continuity'. This means you've set your volt meter correctly and move to the next step. 5. Trace down (check continuity) the wires that are feeding to the various appliances in question by using your Om meter or a continuity checker. 6. Mark each wire with a tab and write which appliance it leads to. This also helps with future needs of identifying wires. 7. After marking and identifying the wires you'll have a good idea at this time which wire feeds which appliance. 8. Unplug appliances. 9. Now, test each outlet with your volt meter and measure current output at the receptacle. There is a different procedure for each test. You'll have to know how to use your volt meter at this point. 10. If you have your trailer hooked up to a 30 or 50 amp service, check how much power is coming into each receptacle with the volt meter using the appropriate technique; ****Warning: do not use OMs setting on volt meter when the power is on!!! ***Caution: Set your volt meter based upon the circuit switch that your outlets are gaged too. 11. Tag your outlets with output readings based on your input. 12. Perhaps the electrical design provides for a 110 outlet and you can plug your microwave into this spot...as far as the refrigerator...the design of our rv, our fridge will work on DC/ AC or Propane gas. 13. Check your fridge for the types of power sources that it accepts. Does it work on DC or AC or does it work on Propane? You may have to replace the refrigerator based on your receptacle outputs. 14. If you send me a video clip; maybe I can help you further. I certainly don't want to get you injured and this can be quite confusing. What state are you in? We're in Indiana. Do you have a friend in electronics?
Nop, both are made for rv use. they worked fine, but in the last trip I was running the generator with the two ac units on, my wife try to use the microwave and is when the problem start, I check fuses and they are ok. I have power in the electric outlet but the fridge is dead. The microwave I don't know ( no idea how to get to it) but this one works fine as long I reduce it to a 110v and not use 30 or 50 amps
what year is your motorhome and what make and model is your trailer? I personally, due to electrical shorts or problems that might cause injury, I'd take it to a dealer of rvs and have them do a diagnostic test on the system. They will give you an estimate and maybe even show you how to fix it yourself. The advantage of taking it to a dealership is to get the warrantee and that gives a lot of peace of mind.
Finally I fix my problems thanks to you guide, My fridge needed to reset a little button that is locate it on the gas burner, the microwave problem was at the electric extension cord plug ( one pin had no connection), now everything is working just fine. Thank you
First....AC...alternating current.....DOES NOT have a Negative or Positive line voltage. Only DC has that. Please seek Professional Electrical assistance and do not follow Untrained wannabes that could get you hurt.
First, I (John) am a 'trained electrician'; I know the difference between AC & DC currents. The question to you, "do you know anything about Atomic Theory; the design of a motor and what is taking place within a converter?" Simply put, following my directions does not follow Atomic Theory, or, the the directional flow of current per physics; I was talking about 'replacing' a POWER CONVERTER in an RV. These directions are clear and uncomplicated and you can save a lot of money doing this yourself. This is not talking about the flow of current from physics or atomic level theory. I know the difference! I had the same discussion with my Electrical Supervisor at Johnson Uni when I was in college. He too put me in my place; and now it's my turn to put you in yours. You're just being hyper critical. Following my directions will save money and allow others to do this themselves. I'm a Tactical Microwave Operators Systems and Repair Specialists for the US Army, trained in electronics through the US signal corp beyond any level you currently hold, and further electrician and plumber since '70. My father was a lineman and I learned initially from him. I've been an electrician since 1970! Wannabe? LOL! You're dreaming! Quit scare-mongering people! I saved a lot of money by doing it myself!
Our Little Homestead! Ok well said. I owe you an apology for my previous comment and bow to your knowledge level and skills. Thanks for the video I did learn a couple things and appreciate you sharing this info. You saved me a ton of money. Oh and thank you for your service. My son served, I served, my father served, my grandfather served, and on back to the very beginning of my family. Again thank you
#1. Your "power checker" is a non-contact voltage sensor an should never be used to confirm if voltage is present.#2. Always check the meter you are using on known voltage to confirm it is functional and semi-accurate. Especially when it is a cheap piece of shit like the one you have.#3 If you don't know any better than to call the common/neutral of an ac circuit "negative", you should leave that shit alone because you obviously don't know what you're doing.
It's a DC current: In OUR particular motorhome, we have AC and DC; our cheap pc of crap, volt meter, is completely adequate to measure both AC and DC (and continuity, if necessary, with the power 'off'). It is cheap, but it does function for this job. It can save you thousands of dollars doing this yourself. You have no idea what YOU are talking about. #1. The common black wire used in other places in the RV or in a home are different. A.) Generally, connected to the battery, the black wire is common ground and goes to a 'negative post'. In your home (and even the wiring in the RV) there ARE places where the 'common' or neutral wire is actually 'white' or copper. B.)The black in the house and RV are actually positive on the AC and the DC side: but coming from a battery, it's usually negative. When you have DC current and you are coming to a converter from a battery, the common is black and the positive is red. C.) I received my electrical training from the US ARMY ... and my father was a lineman in southern Indiana. I serviced and repaired, during the Vietnam War, high tech (at that time) microwave systems ... which provide, even today, our communications' array. I understand electronics. D.) I made this as simple as possible, so, ppl could understand it. People are writing and saying this video saved them money. #2. There are some non-contact meters, this is NOT one of those. #3. When you are dealing with battery power in a motor vehicle, generally the common is a black wire, and the positive is a red wire. Coming from the converter, the common is a white or copper wire. And, the black wire in this case, IS POSITIVE, and if you hook in series, you can build higher DC current which is another issue all together. #4,) You can go to Menards, Lowes, Advanced Auto, or even NAPA and get the same instructions. #5.) If you wish to make money off ppls ignorance, well then, I guess you can. But my goal is the educate and save ppl money. What you will find out, is that ppl are not as ignorant as you like to think. You try to make ppl ignorant and stupid with YOUR great knowledge. You belittle to the point ppl will not want to even attempt to learn something new and helpful. Oh- god of electricity, have a Blessed day!
