Troubleshooting a Snomobile fuel gauge - S1E#1 

You solved all my electrical issues just by saying look under the seat!! Thanks Brother!

Hi I got 2002 800 mxz can I put un Actual fuel gauge in it and temperature gauge in the dash I see that there is cut outs there so if I took the gauges out of another screw that we’re good can I hook them up in the mine what is the process and what do I have to do thank you kindly

Merry Christmas doobyboy21. Hope it's helpful. By the way, need to ground the blue as well when testing gauge. Will be updating vid shortly.

Ski Doo Elite in the 70's was the first snowmobile to have an electronic Fuel gauge. The Elite was a twin track side by side snowmobile. It wasn't until the Ski Doo SS anniversary snowmobile in 1984 that the electronic fuel gauge became a standard feature on a mass produced snowmobile. My 81 Blizzard 5500mx has a sight gauge that u look at. Ah, technology,lol. Sleds have come a long way. My first sled had a dipstick to check the gas.

Caution to anybody troubleshooting their fuel guage: i had 2 faulty guages i repaired* this year. My 1997 and 1998 formula z's were purchased 3 years ago, neither fuel guages worked but our snow conditions prohibited many miles until this year. Plus they both needed miscellaneous work that i put off until this past autumn. I began this video troubleshooting on my 1998 first and it came down to pulling my fuel sender. No breaks in the wires but the resistance readings were far from in line with the shop manual specs. Abrasive cloth against corrosion buildup on the contact strands somewhat corrected that problem but not entirely and i put it back together with a manual float type fuel guage / cap to keep me safe. The 1997 i decided not to mess with - same symptoms pointed to the sender. I rode this one mainly and after 300 miles of good non oxygenated the guage began showing signs of life. After 800 miles this winter it works like new. The 1998 (that i disassembled,) began working better and better but isnt perfect yet after 200 miles. When the tank is full, guage reads 1/2. So my plan is to keep the fuel tanks full during storage from now on. Only a guess, but i think the empty tanks during storage caused the problems i had, and miles of the contacter rubbing through a layer of oxidation correct it. Good luck. Maybe you will find your guage comes back to life after 2-300 miles and not have to waste so much time on your seasonal machine. Also PSA- Tygon fuel hoses were much cheaper from usplastics.com than anywhere else i could find, proper sizes to my door in days. -keep up the videos my old sled, you are appreciated. Cheers

Thanks for your help. All your vids helped me with my old sled lol

Seasons Greetings! I have a 98 formula 583. My headlight is very dim, heat gauge doesn't work, and my gas gauge doesn't seem accurate. I filled it up to the top, and my gauge red only 1/4 tank! Would this all be related to the same problem? i read that this could be a voltage regulator issue... but completely lost where to start.

Just found your channel and this is the first video I've watched. I just want you to know I think it's great that you still respond to new comments on older videos. Subscribed. Thanks!

Thankx to your video, I got mine working again ! Thankx Dave !

Is it still possible to get replacement parts for these old machines? I have a faulty fuel gauge and a dead temp sender, but there's no stock on these items anymore from the ski doo site. Is there third party options anywhere? I really love this old sled of mine.

Temp gauge video coming.

i have a 2001 ski-doo 700 formula delux and the little light bulbs that lite up the gauges, I have to wiggle them to make a few of them work(1 for speedometer, and fuel). where to buy new ones or fix the ones I have. its just the pig tails for those lights only the ones I mentioned. thanks

I absolutely love your how to videos. You explain everything so very well. This is going to sound silly, but I cant figure how to take off the seat, to get at the sending unit. It's a 97-583 Grand Touring. I've rebuilt the clutch, put on a new track, and even rebuilt the suspension. You'd think I could get the %&$@# seat off. What am i missing here?

Hi, My gauge is also not working but when I put power to the "yellow" and "black/yellow" on the gauge the needle does not move but when I put power to the blue and black/yellow the gauge moves. So now I don't know whether to rule out the gauge or if the gauge is bad. lol

I have a 1997 MXZ 583 with 5 wires and 4 spades on the connector - yours looks like 5 wires and 3 spades on the connector? I’ve tested everything you did and everything is spot on. I did find a bad fuse in the sending unit but that is fixed and the ohms change as I lift/lower the float now. I can even get my gage to move but I need to put two power wires and one ground to it off my 12 volt battery or move and light up with a second ground wire. I have not tried the contact cleaner yet but wondering if there is a different test between 3 and 4 spade gages? I have a red/yellow & yellow/black to light up the gage then a yellow/black, a yellow and a blue to move the gage needle. I thought I had one bad power line going to the gage but with a test light I got the two opposite corners to light up..... If I remember correctly the hot lines were yellow and red/yellow? I’m stumped if the contact cleaner flush doesn’t work. Any suggestions???