The 670HO, extremely reliable, high torque definitely, also 110mph+ sleds are fast. Very knowledgeable about his sled. I like how your sleds are treated😁👍 Great video!
Man this reminds me of the days working on sleds was easy. I'm doing the clutches, rebuilding the skid, and chaincase on my 13 Backcountry Renegade 800 and the technology has come so far.
Its amazing really how far and fast things progress. I remember when I was a teen thinking I lived in a boring time, nothing much changed or evolved like in some previous generations..now looking back....
@@MyOldSled your video was very helpful nonetheless, and I am now subscribed so will be watching more, great job! And yes, snow here, hurray! Thanks again.
Just found your channel, watched a few videos so far, Great work, glad I found you. I have a few DIY videos, but your videos are much more polished then most of mine, I'm going to have to step my game up. Subscribed!
My Old Sled.. I just bought 1999 Formula DLX'S. 670 and a 380. They are similar to yours so I'm seeing alot of things I need to know for maintenance. Thanks.
Can you please help, I have a 97 formula and it has mechanical reverse. I cleaned out the chain case. I have the chain tension hand tight but when I put it in reverse it grinds and doesn't work
When inspecting inside the chain case i noticed the the idler wheel on the chain tensioner had a little side to side play. Is this normal or should I remove it and have a closer look? Thanks.
Hmmm I'm not sure. I believe the top castellated nut was 44 lbf-ft. The lower calls for red loctite and 35 lbf-ft. I usually snug it up and dont worry too much as it has a castle nut and cotter pin.
Hi Will. Annually...more or less. There have been a couple of seasons when I hardly got out and I just checked it in the fall. It was clean and full and no metal shavings on the dip stick so I left. Your manual should tell you how frequently to do different maintenance steps. Mine says annually.
@@williamtarr9758 you can do it yourself and save big i done mine on my zr800 ,there lots of online how to's ,,but take my advice DONT use a heat gun ,,it too much,,a hair dryer works best.here what my seat looks like.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=355639871675247&set=gm.554929038287770&type=3&theater&ifg=1
I have a 91 ski doo formula MXE . I can't find the chaincase oil type in the manual . Do you think I can use synthetic oil ? The previous owner used standard gear oil of low quality, I'm worried it will be to thick in cold temps.
Been 7 years but if you still have this issue or someone else has same trouble mx Formula manual i found states its BOMBARDIER mineral chaincase oil (P/N 413 8019 00- 250 ml). How ever this stuff is discontinued so closest thing i managed to figure is Bombardier xps chaincase oil, but unless you are putting your sled into absolute breaking point with top speed runs etc abuse and your life literally depending on this thing working hundreds of km's away from civilization long as gears get oil its fine. More accurate answer would be to get oil that has high pressure rating and good lubrication in low tempatures, while not being too thin when in operating temps, so it wont get splashed on the case instead of chain and top axle bearing. People have with success used basic full synthetic ATF oil and 75W-90 GL-5 on basic use and that is what i'm going to put in. Original oil... probably at this point from factoryXD is pretty horrid to look at (its been driven very little, but also received very little maintenance from previous owners) so for this season its basic ATF oil to flush the system couple times and then probably 75W-90 GL-5 replaced for each season. Only rule is that you dont mix synthetic and mineral oils, but that is not big issue since you can clean it up well enough with can on brakecleaner, when you take the case open.
