I've been tuning people bows for a while now and in all honesty your style of explaining tuning is top shelf, simple, no bull and easy to digest , really good job.. Any chance of doing a video on putting a bow back in spec, eg buy a used bow, it's fully out of spec, half the work I do is getting bows back into spec. I think it would be really helpful for people. And U look prettier than me on video.. 😁
I have to say between this channel and Inside Out Precision (hands down the two best archery channels on YT), I have my setup about as perfect as it has ever been. Shooting nothing but bullet holes and I was able to do it all my own - well with some help from me friends of course. You know what they say, "teach a man to fish...." right. Always appreciate the quick replies to the emails brother and the great content.
AJ is like an emergency room doctor quickly doing a comprehensive checklist assessment and treatment hypotheticals. Crazy good insight - thanks for this vid.
Quick question I'm having the same low nock tare with my new Mathews Phase 4 and tried moving my rest down to aleaviate this but now my arrow is at an extreme angle off the string. So if I'm shooting 70 lbs already and have my limb bolts tighten completely wouldn't tiller tuning lower my bows poundage? I'm at witts end. This is my first dual cam bow in a very long time and I can see why single cams worked so well.
First ensure your nocking point is set correctly. Like with an actual T square. Then yes, tiller tuning does take away poundage, although not a lot. Lesser of two evils. Shoot 69# or have an arrow flying pooly....? I'll take the former.
This has nothing to do with this video even though I loved it,but your video with Brandon literally just made me feel so like a lazy bump. I am so appreciative for that content. You are an inspiration for sure
I really Enjoy your video and im learning a lot. I paper tuned my bow in and got good results and just did my Broadhead tuning bought hitting in the same spot but now I have a nock high and right through paper is that normal? Should I live it or start over? I'm brand new at bow hunting and don't know
HELP!! For two days my paper tuned carbon arrows tear nock up. I found an old aluminum arrow and it went in like a bullet. I have tried everything but advancing/retarding the pulleys - nock travel. (pulleys are timed perfectly, so I don't want to alter them) I reiterate HELP !!
whats the limit on tiller tuning? Starting with arrow dead nuts level and through burger hole.... knock low tear over and inch. Drop the rest more than I'm comfortable with, raise knock point, arrows Horrifically angled down... Take out 3/4 turn and were pretty close.. That seems like so ridiculously far from in spec its driving me nuts.. getting a decent tear and broadheads are hitting with field points but this just feels all wrong. The v3 is the worst tuning bow i've ever owned.
My v3 27 shoots like a dream 29" 75# shooting victory rip 300 xv with iron will 100 grain hit insert and 25 grain collar combo with 125 grain sevr 1.5s and tooth of the arrow xl's only took 2 shots to get bullet hole with this setup broadheads hit right with field tips so couldn't be happier
I've got a hoyt powermax and just had new strings and cables. Now its tearing with what I'd say it a tail high tear... should I try the tiller tune method? Shooting a 500 grain arrow 300 spine.... at 65 lbs...break in the strings and tune after w tiller tuning?
Fuk mate you answer every problem I have in one video, in fact all you uploads are fantastic, you are the no1 for archery advice and you clearly have all your knowledge from pure experience unlike most other channels that regurgitate bullshit. You deserve more subscribers.
The manufacturer specs by hoyt for the HBX Pro cam and the new HBX Xact say that they don’t have any yoke tuning, but they have cam shimming for paper tears. So I would say in forms of tuning it might be higher on the steps when it comes to getting a bullet hole. I know this video is 2 years old though.
Thanks for the advice ! I’m stuck with a nock left tear … on a single cam and idler wheel bow . I guess I’ll have to work on my form then or eventually throw the bow off the top a cliff … no pro shop where I live . There is a great big cliff nearby though 😅
Thank you so much for the mathews tip!!! Ive been going effin nuts trying to get a nock low tear out of my mathews tactic for a week straight. I cant wait to get home from work and try this. i pray it can fix it because i really dont feel like going to the shop for a tune that prob wont fix it and theyll give me shit for shooting a 530 gr arrow
I had issues with a nock low tear with my VXR 28 for months ended up being an arrow spine issue. Added more weight up front and went to a 75lb mod and have perfect bullet holes and arrow flight is great. The heavier mods actually are smoother than the 70 lb mods.
There’s a video on the nock low tear from the maker of the V3 he said these bows are liking an underspined arrow. It about drove me insane on my VXR 28 I even messaged average jack several times lol.
No kidding. I started with a full length rip tko 250 spine around 250 up front still nock low like hell did start to go away as i was approaching 350 up front though. Thats crazy. Ill def have to check that vid out
If you’re on the Mathews brotherhood Facebook page hit me up on there. I have a 75lb VXR .300 spine rip tko with 200 grains upfront 27” arrow and they’re perfect bullet holes now.
How would you tune everything starting from scratch with no bow no arrows? With the goal of perfect field point and Broadhead accuracy this would be my guess, looking for feedback. -Buy a bow and paper tune with someone else's arrows. -bare shaft tune at 20m - 40m -but then knock tune before fletching? I understand the steps individually (thanks to your videos) but not how to do it as a whole from nothing
Tuned my bow to a 125 grain point today. Couldn't believe how much adjustment I had to make for such a small change from a 100 to 125 grain head. Then my arrows were grouping about 6 inches left. I've also tuned this bow 4 times now (V3 31) and have not had any issues tuning
Guess I've been lucky on bows over the last 10 years or so. I have never moved shims. Either a little yoke string twisting or rotating the cable slide rod to change tension. That's about it ever. My young friends PSE SUPRA was a pain. Ended up moving limbs around and some shims. Took about 4 hours of trial /error but finally won out. That was the worst bow tuning hassle out of probably helping tune like dozens of bows for people. One local shop doesn't even offer paper tuning ha ha - guess why???
What would cause bad arrow flight at further distances? When I'm paper tuned at 10 & 20', my groups are terrible with visible "tail whip". With a bit of a nock right tear my groups are significantly tighter and I seem to have a more true arrow flight. I've confirmed correct arrow spine, am confident I'm using a consistent form and grip.
Just started listening to your videos. But now you’re probably going to be my new favorite channel…or at least in the top 3 or so🤷🏼♂️😁😅 Penn State alum here…WE ARE!!!! Seriously though…loving your content! Thanks!!
Well, the PSE Drive 2020 has floating limbs in the limb pockets and you never gona tune this one. Actualy you get perfect tuning and few days later tuning is out the window, because the limbs are sliding to the sides. Thats why NXT has two bolts on the side of each pocket. There are a few videos showing the problem.
Great video thank you, real straight forward. I have a diamond razor edge bow and now I know yoke tuning is probably what I need. Unfortunately you can’t get to shop right now, so going to get the rest as close to that 1/8 as I can and leave it there for now, keep my shots within 20 yards. Didn’t even know I had an issue till I put on broadheads lol. Thanks again!
Hoyt is notorious for nock low tears. You have to make the top cam drawstop touch the cable 1/8" ahead of the bottom cam drawstop and then pull into the bottom drawstop at full draw. Forget about tiller tuning, because it's just going to bring the nock point higher than the rest, which is pretty much the same as moving the nock point up until it shoots a bullethole, but it would look silly with the arrow pointed downwards with the bow at rest.
It is funny I have never tuned my bow and I can group at 50 yards and and hit bulls eye . When I buy the bow I just let the shop do it's setup adjust the timing cam lean for my draw and I start to practice. I am guessing if you are shooting broadheads tunning might be important.
Thank you for sending the link on tiller tuning. I am shooting a mission mxr with a biscuit and experiencing a nock high tear and the only way to fix was raise the nock point 1” above center which seems counter intuitive to the process. I’ll try tiller tuning the upper limb and see if that helps… thanks again.
Yes got a mathews vertix and it all ways shoots a bit nock low even if I've got the nocking point high , and I'm from a trad bow back ground so I know about tiller shot ilf bow as well , so I did a half turn out on the top limb and it shoots perfectly 🤔🤷♂️
Best video I've seen you make thus far. Love the vibe in this video. Also, Thank you for all the information. I've seen 20+ videos of yours info has helped me improve alot. Thank you.
I have a question, so after u set up ur bow perfectly and have ur arrow sitting at a perfect 90 from the strings is it ok to move it out of 90 for low or high tears Or should I use another tuning method? If so what’s the limit u should be moving ur rest or nock point away from 90?
I know that look at the beginning lol it says "I love you. I really do. But I'm trying to do something and I need you to leave me alone for a little while."
I was wondering why my bow is about 3 or 4 more pounds heavier to pull when it sets overnight do you think it's the strings I'm getting new ones this coming week
You are such a great dad 👨Nate. Enjoy those moments with your two girls. My Dad says that we grew up way too fast. Thanks for the reminder and the intel. I will have to set up a homemade paper tuner and use that card that I got from you. I know that on my single cam PSE, I can move the Hamskea Primer rest that I recently had installed, but as far as anything else I am not 100% on. Side note I checked on Elites site and there are dealers that are 40-90 minutes away. After season I may have to stop in and see what model they have in left hand.
You don't. You have to shim those cams like with Mathews and their tophats. It was why PSE moved away from the floating yoke for the fixed system a few years ago.
Awesome channel….shooting a Mathews v3 27, 70bls. Had it shooting bullet holes at 29.5 but draw length felt too long. It would shoot 10 in a row so form probably fine. Shop switched mods down to 28 which feels a lot better as I’m only 5’9. now I can’t get a good tear unless I set the dloop over 1/2 inch high and have the rest very low. Otherwise it’s nock low at 3 feet, 6 feet, 9 feet. Shooting 550 grain Sirius Apollo (250 spine) 100 grain insert with 125 grain tip. I’ve tried heavier and lighter tips so I don’t think spine is an issue. Also tried 400 grain 350 spine, same low tear. Any thoughts? Timing seems okay but don’t have a draw board.
I have a question for ya about the new set technology 🤔. Does adjusting the S.E.T change center shot and should I move rest and make sure it's 13/16 while adjusting S.E.T.? Any help would be appreciated
No, set the rest to 13/16" and play with the SET. I don't change the rest again, just play with the SET. It doesn't make any sense to me to move the SET....to move the rest again? I've never understood why that's recommended in the Elite manual even. Seems to negate all the SET work.
I’m still waiting for someone to explain why it would matter what kind of tear your getting two feet from your bow if the arrow rights it’s self say five-ten yards down range…
The more efficient your arrow shaft can be right off of the bow is the best in every facet of Bowhunting. There isn't a single sport on this planet where having a less than clean start makes the overall race, time, or experience easier. Let the fletchings have as little work to do as possible.
@@averagejackarchery I have no doubt you have forgot more about archery then I will ever know. That said all that stuff is minutia. It’s what I refer to as archery nerd stuff. It chases away new archers imo. Archery doesn’t have to be that complicated. It started out a stick and string. We should keep it as close to that as possible within reason. FOC and the like needlessly turn archery into rocket science. Unless you are an Olympic archer I think letting fletching do it’s job is more than good enough…
I get a good paper tune with bullet holes shooting 743 grain arrows 32” draw length at 67 pounds but when I start getting away from the target not so good of a group. One of your videos you was talking about your glasses well I have tri focal talk about a pain 😏
Any idea why the Matthews V3 31 is having this issue? I upgraded from a VXR 28 that shot like a dream and I’m regretting the $1100 plus various arrow combos and crap to try and get the V3 to stop shooting nock low by almost an inch with cams timed and my rest centered up with a completely level arrow. What the heck is going on!!?? Even changed up rests to a Hamskea trinity rest from the QAD ultra rest, tried ever point weight between 75grn and 200grn on 300 spine and 340 spine easton axis 4mm match grade arrows. Called up Matthews and they told me to check for nock pinch and maybe take the bottom monkey tail off the bow. Still tearing tail low. Driving me insane. I would appreciate any and all help or tips. Thank you so much!
I had the same exact problem with my 27. When my rest was up, the arrow was on an extremely point low angle, and still had a low nock tear. I ended up re-checking the timing, putting everything back to factory specs, leveling the arrow, nock is about 1/16" high, and then just broadhead tuning instead of worrying about paper. It was driving me insane for 3 days trying to get it fixed. Finally mover my rest away from the riser about 1/8", and now my broadheads(magnus stingers) are grouping right with my field points. I'm going to shoot it through paper again tomorrow just to see what it looks like, but I'm not changing anything now that the arrows are flying together.
m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rvHZW1CBSo0.html 11:40 in this video the maker of the V3 explains these new bows like a weaker spine arrow. I had an issue for months with my VXR 28. I just put on 75lb mods and added weight up front to my .300 spine TKOs and now I’m center and level on the string between the axels 13/16ths from the riser perfect bullet holes.
I have a V3 27” that was completely square and still had about a half inch nock low from 5 yards. I didn’t know the term, but a bow tech finally tiller tuned and that low tear came right out. Worth a shot.
With a Mathews solo cam, what is a good starting point for the number of twists per side on the yoke? In other words, how many twists should be put into each side if I was installing a new cable?
If the cable is brand new, twist and untwist the yoke legs evenly. They will be the same length from the string builder. So 2 twists out one side add 2 twists the other. Etc.
@@averagejackarchery Very interesting! Just so I get this right, I twist one side clockwise 2 times, and the other side counterclockwise 2 times? Am I correct in interpreting what you are saying? Just so I know, what is the reason for this?
@@baraksinz Right! You want to adjust them evenly and opposite of each other. So one clockwise and the other counter. The length of the cable is factory set right, but the yokes aren't "even" for the axle of your bow to be square as one leg has to be longer than the other to travel to the one side of the axle. Sorry. Little geometry there. 😅 Ideally, once everything is squared up and you don't have any cam lean to start, the ATA length should be identical, within 1/16" at the widest, both sides of the axle.
My bow is easy to tune. The manufacturer info says It's been made so the cams and string run in the middle of the riser, and the arrow should be at the berger hole. So I initially.. I just eyeball it. Paper tune to get the vertical tears out. Then I walk back tune. I don't go for a bullet hole because bullet hole tune is only good if I shoot 1 distance. With my bow all setup with no left right deviations over 20 - 100yrds. It shoots a 3 inch right tear.
Tune for a bullet hole at multiple distances. If you think a bullet hole happens only at one distance, you are fooling yourself into accepting inferior arrow flight.
@@Waty8413 not true. It's called the archers paradox. You want to shoot through paper once the arrow has stopped flexing back and forth from the initial change in energy. Once the arrow is in flight and past the point of the archers paradox, the arrow is flying how it comes out of the bow, assuming that you are shooting bare shaft. However, over further distances the arrow will straighten out, because physics(unless your setup is beyond messed up). And, in my limited experience, a paper tune is just a starting point, you can still be off just a touch and still get a perfect bullet hole. Edit: I should add that even though I very much disagree with you, if your system works for you, than rock on my dude.
@@c.b.7830 hey man the archers paradox only applies for a traditional style of bow shooting off of the shelf without center shot. The paradox is the phenomenon of arrow flying straight even though it has to pass around the riser where it was drawn from. But arrow flex explains that. The issue with what you said is that modern compounds overcome the paradox by design, by having the rest In the center of the draw and flight path, your arrow never deviates from its flight path. It’s drawn and released while pointing at the target. So a paper tune on a modern compound is useful.
@@Unpleasantries69 🤦 all arrows bend upon release, aka flex. The difference between a trad shooter and a modern compound shooter, is that the trad shooter needs that arrow to bend in a very specific direction to clear the riser upon release. Compound shooters usually don't care unless they are nerding out on tuning.
