Spot on help. Fixed my wife's 2010 CRV exactly as described by tapping the actuator and unplug plug sequence. Thanks very much for your excellent description.
Dear Danny and subscribers, thank you very much for the contribution of your videos and comments, it is very creative and those of us who have a 2008 Honda CRV like mine are very happy to share the experiences. I´m watching them from Argentine.
this worked.....bang on it a few times, unplug it and it reset itself. this is a good reminder to always unplug and plug back in to see if that fixes it. Thanks for this!
I want to thank you a lot for your video, it helped me big time. I was about to take my car to the mechanic and he was going to charge me $420 dollars to fix the heater. With your video I just saved myself all that money I was going to spend there. All I did was a reset of the heater just like you said in your video and that was it!!! Problem solved!!❤❤❤ I can't thank you enough, thank you, thank you❤❤ God bless you always 🙏
Thanks for your kind comment. I too went to a mechanic and was told to order parts I didn’t need based on likely fixes. This led me down the road of research on this issue and a set of fixes that seem to work in some cases. Electric issues like this are usually better diagnosed by the dealer I guess.
Great instructional video! I like your troubleshooting technique. Ran the diagnostic, measured the heater core hose temps, the door actuator fixed the problem! $26 part on eBay but, expect to be a contortionist or pay someone else to install.
Right. But usually a hammer bang or pulling the green connector on and off fixes the problem. There must be and ideal tool for this job but I haven't found it. My knees were not in good shape after I took the actuator out. Thanks for your comment it helps me to get a return on investment of my videos.
@@dannyjensen4954 I did pull the cable on both ends, and tried banging on the motor before replacing. Also plugged the cable into both the removed unit and the new one before installing to confirm operation.
I'm here to check out the videos. I have a 2011 and I think the modes are all fine, I have nice heat on the drivers side vents but cool air going out the passenger side. I do have the duel setup to both read Hi so the heat should be all the same.
Something in the dual setup diverter motors then? Did you do the self test? Otherwise you could go to the dealer or get a Honda shop manual on-line. Maybe even go to an AC shop.
Thanks. It’s crazy I know. So many people do this and it fixes the issue. The problem sometimes comes and goes so keep a hammer under the seat for protection and fixing your heating.
@@dannyjensen4954 Put hammer in glovebox. It’s the passenger side sticking. If it happens more guess I’ll get a new actuator. I tapped the actuator and it didn’t work but tapped the blend door housing and it did. Are drivers and passenger side same part?
Hello, this is a long shot that I may hear from you but it’s worth a shot. I have a 2010 Honda crv . My driver side blows warm air but my passenger always blows cold . Ice cold . On the driver side it doesn’t even blow strongly . I know it is the Acuator but I don’t know what exactly .
I don't have a control to direct the heat. It heats both areas. I'm not sure you have the type of environmental control. Yours must be a higher end unit. I'm thinking go to a Air Conditioning shop and see if they can take a look at your car. The AC sounds like it may be on somehow? Its complicated I think. I couldn't find anyone other than the dealership who wanted to trouble shoot my car so did this DIY video but I can't help. Sorry.
i have a 03 crv with hot blowing on passenger side and cold on the drivers side vents and is i turn on a/c its the same just colder . would it be the blend doors. air gets cold at the stop light
Guessing that if you live close to the ocean those electrical contacts might suffer from salt air corrosion which gets temporarily alleviated by physically banging on the unit or moving the connector. Might want to try spraying some Deoxit on the contacts or the dieletric grease should work also.
Tx. I had code 2 and 90° air vent temperature and replaced the actuator motor. Now I have code 3 and gradual 105 degree vent temperature. And I can see actuator working/moving. I understand vent temperature should probably approach 130 degrees. I'm going to run as is for a week or two. If it doesn't get hot enough fast enough I may go for replacing the environmental control panel. Not quite sure what my root cause is. I've also thought about flushing out the heater core as a last resort. At present 105-degree vent temperature maybe tolerable. Tx
@@dannyjensen4954 after a few days of using the new actuator door it's working perfectly. I didn't have to replace temperature knob. I did put bulb greese on all connectors. I do think that actuator door was bad but maybe a connector was marginal too. Tx much
@@dannyjensen4954 local Honda dealer quoted $200 for replacing blend door actuator and $1800 for replacing temperature control module & knob . I bought new Doorman actuator door on Amazon for $40. Did have to contort a lot to install so $200 quote from dealer was tolerable. I didn't need control module. Dealer insanely quoted $1800 for it saying took 5 hrs to take apart dash. With help from your videos I could take apart in 5 min to "bulb grease" all connectors. Now everything works perfectly. I spent $40 for parts vs $2000 quoted by dealer. What a story!! Thanks much for all your help! Bob
I did replace my control unit. I was having intermittent periods where the mix motor did not work and the mix motor was good. Perhaps remove and connectors on BOTH blend door motor and control unit and see it it gets fixed? The motor position is known by a voltage reading on the motor so maybe a bad connection is causing you issue. Thanks for your comment. Let us know your progress on solving this issue. Mine is also a 2011 CRV.
@@dannyjensen4954 Will do. I am also having the AC intermittently stop blowing cold air. No consistency. Sometimes it doesn’t turn on. Other times we are good for 3-5 hrs. Other times for ten minutes.
@@gfriedman99 I found out that if I turn the car off and then back on it works fine. Sometimes for the entire rest of the day. My cold/hot blend door also stopped working so I’m suspecting its the dial/ac control unit??
I have a 2009 crv but the DTC test (button sequence) didn't seem to work Also probably an obvious question but, when unplugging that green connector from the blend door actuator does the car have to be on or off? Sorry again if it's obvious 😅
Thanks for good info. Just curious?? Could it take the better climate control in place of the dial only temp control? Might be a nice upgrade to have automatic temp control? Too much to expect?? Tx
If I remember correctly you first got cold 2 and replaced blend door but that didn't solve your problem. What code if any did you then get? You stated that you then replaced the climate control unit with manual knob. Then I think all your codes went away. My ending question is what was the root cause of your not getting heat? Was there a single root cause? Tx. Bob C
@@bobWsterguy I think my problem was fixed when I replaced the environmental control. Not sure what the root cause was. I did not run the self tests before I started messing with things. I never had codes. I just generated them by not connecting the green connector on the blend door.
I need the cr-v workshop manual that you were showing on your video. Where can I get that pdf?? 🙏🙏 After I do the DTC test my light blinks twice so I have a short. I'm confused as to what to do next.
I ended up buying the pdf I think. Go to Honda CRV owners group and ask questions. Also unplug the motor and run the rest to see it the test changes. If so perhaps swap the motor out. Look at my other videos on the topic.
I've watched all your videos. You said the actuator was not the problem in your case but never mentioned what WAS the problem and what you did to fix it.
I replaced the climate control unit but I was not methodical enough to pinpoint this as the exact root cause of the failure. The problem did go away but as you know from watching this video, many steps are necessary to properly diagnose the root cause while the problem BEFORE pulling connectors and swapping parts.
