Angela, I’ve been a professional quilter, designer, and teacher for many years, and I have to say YOU ARE REALLY GOOD at explaining. Thanks. Wish I could hit the like button ten times.
This was so helpful, especially you graciously providing the free PDF handout. I just got a long arm and it’s very overwhelming. Your presentation helps break it down to isolate one thing at a time. Thanks.
I explain tension adjustment thusly: if the top thread is where it shouldn’t be, tighten the top tension. T for Top, T for Tighten. If the Lower (Bobbi) thread is misbehaving, loosen the top tension. L for Lower thread, L for Loosen. This is so simple to remember and I think it simplifies such an important and frustrating issue. Happy stitching!
I love the "call me, I'll talk you down" comment regarding 'freak out moments' (=. Angela, you say you have geek moments telling us about the mechanics, but here we all are listening to you explain it! You are a born teacher. Love it.
Thank you so much! Even though I never had the chance to meet you in person (I am located in Germany) I literally learned almost everything I know about quilting from you. Started with your Craftsy classes and now I am enjoying the quilting process and I have so much fun, especially after I learned your finished is better than perfect approach. Thank you for being so generous with all your knowledge by sharing it here with us 😘
I had a few giant birds nests in a row after changing thread colors (both top & bottom)...then realized that I was using a machine that needed style 66 bobbins (the domed ones) and I had used a bobbin that was flat....you have to check everything! Even the type of bobbin! This is why reading and following your manual helps tremendously!
I learned a lot, I just quilt with my sewing machine. I was having tension issues with an inherited 50 year old Bernina. I took it in for a cleaning and tune-up sounds like there was build up causing some of my issues. I will keep you tips in mind.
I have a friend who says she's never adjusted her tension and has never had problems. When we sew together, I have to adjust mine nearly every time. Appreciate all of your information. Thank you!
I just started learning how to fmq. Oh my gosh it is not easy. You answered my question. On my starter piece the bottom thread was coming through the top. I had two different colored thread because of the backing color. Trying to quilt simple stars on a tablerunner (patriotic). Thought, oh how easy this should be. No way! I need to go back and practice. Piecing the quilt is a piece of cake compared to actually quilting it. Thank you!
thank you for sharing this information. this is soooo helpful to have this reference available. Its like having tech support at your fingertips, with out all the hold time.
THANK YOU!!!!! Like sooooo very much for this class. I just learned so very much. Had just finished 2 quilts with thread shredding problems and could not figure what the problem was. Purchased the Superior needles and still a problem. Worked great until I moved the quilt around. Tried the Glide thread no different. Been sewing long enough to know better so why didn't I read the back of the needle package? Been watching you for a few years now which is why I started FMQ in the first place (always wanted to but you were very convincing that I could do it even at my age) and am loving it really a lot except for the shredding. So today I picked up a new machine from Pfaff which will be a little easier for me and was so happy that your class was today. Tomorrow I will be using what you were teaching today with the proper needle for the proper weight of thread and another quilt. I just purchased Shelly and have been trying feathers that were shredding all over the place over the last quilt. Cleaning was never a problem for me since every second bobbin meant cleaning the entire area. You are right about the popping of the needle. I changed my needle every 4th bobbin or sooner and especially when sewing batiks or hearing popping. Loved the coffee cup today also. Thanks for being my mentor.
When I use Specialty threads I always use thread lubrication like All Purpose Sewer's Aid. I put a few drops on the spool turning the thread spool between my fingers going with the thread direction on the spool let sit for 2-3 mins. then I use it vertically and a thread stan.
A timely chat. I had nesting today. It was the thread hanging below the tension discs. I wish I had noticed sooner. It takes a lot longer to remove the quilting than to sew it in. 😂
You're the best!! I was having so much difficulties with my machine's tension and now.. i've just tried and tried and it worked! Tension problem is solved cause I could actually understand what to look for 🙏
Thank you for this video. Actually, I think your very last "clue" is where my problem is! I am making "bird's nests" underneath the quilt. I will rethread the needle, and hope it works!!
Your chats give me confidence when finishing the quilt and your insight offers tips to newbies like me. Thanks! PD: Any advice on setting the foot tension?
Dang I missed the live! Shredding! Omg! I wish I knew all of this three weeks ago when I starting FMQ on my daughters quilt. This is such a wealth of information to me now.
Likening the issues to IT repair calls sounds perfect. I used to be the one that people asked when things weren't right. Because I could run through all the issues. And believe me a laptop has a half a dozen ways not to be plugged in.
I have an older hq. I've had tension problems. The last time I did something to the top tension and the spring broke. I'm waiting for a new one to come. I'll use this video to help me get going when the new one comes. I can't take the tension thing apart to replace the spring so I had to order the whole assembly. It's a good thing I'm already gray.
Not able to watch when your live so I rewatch later. I learned alot from this video. My husband watched with me lol and he learned alot too. Helpful for when I unload on him when things dont go right. I'm looking forward to watching live after tax season is over. 😊
Thank you so much for the info. I am trying to learn FMQ and kept getting thread nests (top thread) on the back constantly. Checked needle, bobbin, tension, thread and everything was fine, but now I will quadruple check that it is threaded properly! :-)
Actually, regarding your "rattling 'on," 'from one teacher to another, 'you have a good voice. It's "just right": not too high pitched, not too low, pleasant "tone" with the ability to explain and communicate concepts with charisma, personality, and enthusiasm--you're doing well!
The question about why the tension appears to change when you change your thread (because your spool or bobbin has run out), but are using “exactly” the same thread, is something I have experienced. Even though the two spools of thread may be from the same manufacturer, with the same thread code (colour, weight, etc), it doesn’t mean that they are identical, particularly if they didn’t come from the same batch. This can be more obvious with colours because not every dye lot is identical, it can vary ever so slightly because the dye mixing can vary. This is probably also true when the thread is spun during the manufacturing process, before dyeing. The actual spinning process can cause differences (and anyone who has spun their own wool has probably seen that). So unless you buy your thread in bulk (more than one spool at a time) you may not be able to ensure that it comes from the same dye lot or has been spun on the same machine in the same way, and that could be one of the reasons why two apparently identical spools of thread don’t behave in the same manner. The age of the thread can also be an issue since, especially with natural threads, there is some deterioration due to age. It’s also recommended that threads are not kept in a place where they are exposed to sun, or even open to atmospheric conditions (as pollution can also affect thread quality). The reality is that not all threads are the same, even if the label indicates that they should be. And that means that they won’t necessarily behave as you expect them to. It’s just one of those little annoyances we have to accept because it’s not something we have any control over.
I'm a new long arm quilter and I appreciate all the information in this video. I went back and watched the thread video as well. Thank you for all this information. I struggle with the tension issues. What do you do when you quilt a whole row with railroad tracks on the bottom?
Great video...I often struggle with “tension” issues on my Bernina Q20 sit down that are user errors. In addition to regular cleaning and lubrication (a new concept to me after decades of using a Husqvarna domestic machine that didn’t require oiling), I also learned this weekend that it is important to RTFM and follow the guidance about checking bobbin case tension using the provided gauge after winding a new bobbin. What looked like top thread too loose/bottom thread too tight was really bobbin thread way, way too loose. Still trying to figure that result out but the stitching - both FMQ and ruler work - was beautiful afterwards.
I just bought a Q16 and the bobbin tension changes overnight when the machine is off. I think it is the tension goblins. Now I check before I sew each time. A small price to pay for the beautiful machine and its capabilities.
Pre-wound bobbin question - An experienced quilter said that he checks the bobbin tension after EVERY BOBBIN CHANGE. Is this because winding your own bobbins creates inconsistencies that could affect the bobbin tension, even if it’s the same type/weight thread? In your Q&A you mentioned color. Can different colors in the same type/weight thread require a different tension? Is this why you prefer pre-wound bobbins?
It really shouldn't affect the bobbin tension if you are using the same thread as before, but it definitely doesn't hurt to check it. If something is off, it will save you a heck of a lot time ripping out the quilting. I haven't found that different thread colors of the same thread require different tension. I prefer pre-wounds because they are wound tighter and hold more thread. Plus I don't have to wind them. They are a little more expensive though, so that's the downside. Hope this helps!
Kind of off topic missed the live but what stitch length do you use when piecing your quilt pieces together and stitch length when quilting in general with sewing machine. Thanks for all your great info.
Have top tension out trying to fix the spring on the empress long arm. Followed the instructions but it keeps falling out what am I doing wrong with reassembly
Hi Angela, I tried to join this chat and was so distrated by the chat going off into troll land.; you have so much information that I missed,I am adding it to my que and hope this doesn't happen in our future chats. I know this is a bothersome issue it detracts from your purpose and that an't cool!
Hi Angela! I realize this video is a year old but I’m hoping you may see my question anyway. I have recently acquired a 3 yr. old Bernina Q20 sit down long arm. It began stitching for me just perfectly with machine embroidery thread in top and bottom. When I changed bobbin threads (was practicing with what the seller gave me) to what I think is a cotton, or cotton covered poly, I started having the darker bobbin thread showing on top. I have checked and double checked my bobbin tension and also have changed my top tension to anywhere from 1.75-4.5. Makes no difference. My stitches look great but just having bobbin thread show on top. I have since gone back to the embroidery thread in the bobbin but it is still showing. Can’t figure it out since it was perfect in the beginning. Do I just match my threads (which is what I normally do when fmq), and live with it, or should my machine be able to separate the different colors so that they aren’t noticed where they don’t belong? Thanks for your help! I have a lot to learn!
Metallic thread- use top stitch needle as it has a larger eye (or one size larger than your normal needle) and lower that tension. My domestic machine is a Bernina, and I drop the tension down to 1 or 1.5 with metallics.
Incredibly helpful!!! New longarm owner here and just wonder HOW you can check tension on the bottom? Do you put some kind of test piece on with the quilt? Do you go underneath with a flashlight? Or what?
Hi Cindy, yes I do a test piece at the side of my quilt before longarming, usually in the margin of excess batting/wadding, do a few circles & stars so that you can check both curves & points. I also have a small magnifying mirror that I can place under to view the backing fabric & check the back of the stitching, also a small but bright torch/flashlight can be handy. I have, on odd occasions, got down on my hands & knees to check the underside of the quilt (this is when the micro torch is very helpful as its dark under there!) OR you can advance the quilt onto the back pole so that you can see the backing fabric & check your stitch tension from the back of the table (& less stress on your knees & back!). I hope this helps. Nicky G UK
On my Juki longarm it's usually I didn't get the bobbin case seated properly, need to listen for it to snap into place. When I stitch in the ditch on my Juki sewing machine and I start breaking thread it's because I need to lessen the as amount of pressure on my presser foot, that thicker quilt sandwich isn't moving along well. It's never the tension settings, sigh always operator error.
I have a question about the way the thread comes off the spool and how that could affect tension. I use a home sewing machine where the thread spool is horizontal and the thread comes off the bottom of the spool when threading the machine. Some thread spools from my local store (big chain store) only have thread that I have to load with the large end of the spool near the thread feeds to the machine; so that it may wobble on the spindle; I seem to have issues with some threads loaded this way (horizontally) shredding more often. No issue with Glide thread for example, which loads with the narrow end of the spool toward the threading of the machine. Should I use a separate thread holder, such as those that sit on a stand (they remind me of IV stands at the hospital, if that makes any senes!)? Does this make any difference? Thank you!
Well after trying everything suggested for shredding I think I’m doing better but it starts again ! I’m learning and some things are getting so much better but could the dark color thread be causing the shredding only asking because I was doing great and tried the teal and reds and it’s terrible. Going up to change my needle again wish me luck!
Do you have a preference when it comes to cotton thread vs polyester thread? I have used cotton but noticed since yr video that what I use is only 30wt where as the 40wts I see are polyester. I always thought of polyester to be cheaper value than cotton but have I been thinking wrong all this time?
When free motion quilting my bottom thread pulls to the top when I make curves. I use same color thread on top and bottom but I don’t always want to do that. I know it’s my technique, maybe I’m going to slow or fast?
Surprised you talk about quilting thread with higher numbers. I always think of lower numbers, thicker threads for quilting. 40 wt, 30, 28 and 12 are the ones I consider to be quilting thread. I use 50 too if it;s the color I want.
One other basic thing is - if your foot is not all the way down or if your ruler foot is not the perfect distance from the fabric, you will get nests on the back.
@@DeebeeNonya Thanks! I think You Tube was having some issues. A couple videos I watch weren't active. Didn't see Angela's links either. I can see them now, though!
Kathy, if you look just under the lower right corner of the video, there is a radial button (arrow). If you click on that, it will add to her information. There are links listed you can click on to take you to those downloads. I hope this helps.
