I used the trucker hitch for years till my 81 year old dad (a farmer who loads and transports a LOT of hay) saw me doing one a few months ago and showed me how to do the truckie hitch. He feels the trucker slip knot loop doesn't lock down sufficiently well compared to the "ear" of the truckie hitch and says that once the truckie hitch is tensioned the friction on the ear is such that the rope is more likely to break than for the ear to slip through. Now that I know how to do it I agree with him that it is a better hitch to use.
Another advantages of the truckIE is that you don't have to feed the entire length of the rope through the loop. If you have a long rope this will be a big advantage
Much better than the trucker's knot for wet tarp ridgeline. Most videos show it tied vertically. This video was much more helpful for me. I like this little-known version of the knot. Thanks!
I enjoyed your video. On that note about the Trucker's hitch, when you make that first loop, put a full twist or 1 1/2 twist in it before you finish the slip knot. Your Trucker's hitch will come undone very easily when your finished with it. No matter how wet your rope is or how strong of a load you put your hitch in. It will come undone with easy. I have used this style of knot for years. But there again, everyone has their favorite knot they like to use.
Great video and comparison. The Truckie Hitch was a new knot for me, I haven't known before. I tried tying the Truckie Hitch with a Dyneema line (DynaGlide) and there it did slip. So be careful when using UHMW-PE (as Dyneema) since these lines may slip.
Hurray!..you are the ONLY ONE that has shown me the “Herb’s Hitch”, the one I learned from a long haul tucker named Herb. I’ve seen SO MANY versions of this and THIS is the simplest of all of them, as you do not have to thread the running end (Tag End) through that loop...its quick and simple...I’ve used it to tie double Pallets of heavy Porcelain Tile on my truck for long hauls and its never failed me.
About a week ago, I watched you and two others show these knots. I tried it for the better part of an hour and could not figure them out and got so frustrated I quit. Just now I watched you again and went to the 'Man Cave' and tried it again. I can't tell you why, but they both went together like peanutbutter and jelly. I'm gonna say it was me, and thank you for a good demo.
Great video. Simple, to the point, and professional. I have been a "truckers" hitch advocate until I saw this video. When using tarred bank line, water swelling does not have to occur to make the truckers a difficult loop to slip out. ;) One point of safety. As I was practicing the "Truckie" hitch (using Paracord, nylon rope, natural fiber rope, and bank line) I noticed that the bend kept wanting to fold out and release. One time I really cranked down on it and it did release. (Ouch). I found that if you do a second bight and loop to secure the first bight and loop, it keeps it from shifting and folding over. There is still a chance the second one shifts, but the force is mainly on the first one, so the chances are lessened. This will be my goto ridge line knot, especially with tarred bank line. Thanks
There is a set of hand movements used by Australian truckers which eliminate making the cutesy loops for threading the sheepshank. As follows. 1. Hold the giant rabbit ear in your left hand. The standing line coming from the anchor is to your right. 2. Position your right hand in a salute or prayer position between the l.h. ear and the r.h. line. 3. Swing your right hand under the r.h. line, up over and grab the l.h. ear. 4. Pull the l.h. ear curving back down the way your right hand came, then pull it upwards away from you just as if you are yanking that rabbit’s ear away from you. 5. Now do the steps 1 -4 again for a second sheepshank loop. 6. “Dress” the knot a little by yanking gently on both ends of the sheepshank assembly, then crank it tight. This is the Aussie quick form of the truck hitch. It’s almost a secret because there is only one (Aussie) video on RU-vid showing the method. But if you’re lucky you will see a real old-time trucker using it as long as you do not blink.
I use the first knot all the time, whatever you want to call it. I don't have any trouble with it jamming as I add a few twists to the loop when I make the slip knot. I've used it on loads, on my boat, for a ridge line in the rain. The extra twists keep the slip knot from getting stuck.
Agreed a twist in it a few times and never have I had it get stuck or have it slip. I used the truckie hitch the other day and cranked it so hard it slipped!!!! If that was my canoe strapped onto my truck that let go I'd be screwed. Definitely gonna stick with my truckers hitch with twists lol
Scott Matthews if your trucki hitch slipped or let go you didnt tie it right !!! the rope will break before it comes undone !! witch you can do quite easy buy adding in more loops and you multiply the tension !!! i use nothing but the trucki hitch !! much much faster to tie and undo !! and does less damage to rope as well in the process !!! all truck driver use the trucki hitch not the truckers hitch !! and for very good reason !!!
Sure truckers using it daily would go with the 'truckie' hitch for it's speed (if the rope's too long) and the wear factor. If they can tie it consistently and with their particular rope, have no failures, then good on them. I've read many credible accounts where people have had occasional failures, particularly with more slippery ropes. For occasional users like me, the guaranteed failsafe 'truckers' hitch as it is called here but WITH the extra twists is my preferred method too. If the rope's not too long it's just as fast.
That was interesting. I have been using the truckie hitch for 40 years thinking it was a truckers hitch. That loop you put the rope through you can do more than one. On some occasions I have brought it around the back and back through the loop making a bowline and that will not come loose. I have never had a problem untying a bowline no matter how much strain was on it. Thanks for the info, Now I know I am using the truckie hitch,
A good idea with the Truckers Hitch is to twist the 'loop' a couple of times (at 1:11), and then "reach in" to slip the bight. It is still very quick and simple to do but it will make the thing much less prone to jamming. You may still get it to jam with some types of rope under extreme loads but I've never had a problem with it. You don't really see it in RU-vids, but commenters sometimes mention it.
The Truckie Hitch you show is the true "Truckers Hitch" as I've drove truck since the '60s, before straps & ratchets were common, to tie down loads as we only had hooks on flatbed trailers. You can double the truckers hitch & break 1/2" hemp rope. You can add another loop over the bite for more security. The other knot would be ridiculous to use as a trucker having to pull the tag end through every time using 100' ropes. Get it right before you try to teach others.
Apparently I had already liked this but can't remember watching it. Anyhow, watched it again and wish I could have liked it twice. Very clear explanation & demonstration, thanks :D
I learned it using the alpine butterfly. I feel like its more secure for something like a hammock that you would tighten and loosen repeatedly by getting on and off during the day. Although I really like the ease of the sheepshank version, which I will add to my arsenal of knots!
This is simply one version of the combination of knots known commonly as the Trucker's Hitch. If you search RU-vid for Trucker's Hitch many will demonstrate your preferred combination of knots, which uses for its loop knot either the Sheepshank Loop or the Bellringer's Knot (depending on the source). When I've found a good reference on the Trucker's Hitch, it usually describes more than one version - typically in increasing order of reliability. Almost invariably, the Alpine Butterfly Loop is given as the most reliable loop to use. Nonetheless, you may have a point in the ease of releasing your system. I do feel I should mention that any Sheepshank is generally described as a knot to never use because of its tendency to capsize under even the lightest loads.
Names for these hitches have been thrown all over the place, but this guy has it totally correct. Certainly a butterfly loop is better than a slipped overhand knot, because it has collars that break easily while overhand knots just jam tighter and tighter under load. True a sheepshank might capsize but there are ways to secure it better. With this truckie's hitch (not trucker's) you can simply make a half-hitch with the bight around the line to secure the sheepshank part better. Or some people make a second half-hitch/loop above the first to make more secure.
I have found that for situations where you need to periodically adjust (i.e. reducing) the tension, these two here don't respond well. The Truckies collapses and the Truckers will eventually constrict. In such situations, a fixed loop like the Alpine Butterfly is the best method. Most people would never need to adjust their hitches, but perhaps important to remember. With the Truckies Hitch, a comment by someone on another RU-vid has me thinking there is a right and wrong way to tie it (I mean the basic form), depending on the orientation of the loop which 'pinches' the bight - i.e. left or right hand version of it. He said he got "patchy" results before he finally realised. I'm a knot guy - not a truckie with daily real world experience, but I think he may be right. I may need to do some testing as I can't seem to find reference to this anywhere else.
Reduce tension on a load? Not usual, but I know what you mean. Which is why you can perfectly secure the Truckie's hitch with a half-hitch of the bight at the top. It acts as a stopper knot so the lower shank can't collapse over its bight. Try it. Do it the exact way the guy in this video does it...then half-hitch the top bight (that he's pulling with his left arm at 2:55) around the standing line to secure it, nice and snug against the lower shank part. You won't be able to make it collapse. And no cheating with reducing it to giant slack...because it's SUPPOSED to fall apart after you're done using it to cinch down a load. Ease of use. As far as I know the 'truckie's hitch' is the original wagoners/lorry drivers/wakos transport hitch when it uses a simple half-hitch over a bight (based on a sheepshank)...like the guy does in this video. I think you're calling the half-hitch the 'loop' over the bight? It's simply a half-hitch over a bight, like a sheepshank. Of course, lots of people invent their own variations to tie knots etc. and also invent their own names. Confusion reigns!
True. You can use that or other methods as both you guys have suggested, to increase reliability. What I'm talking about is the basic form, without additional steps. Many truckies seem to use the simple form daily without trouble, but there does seem to be a right and wrong way to tie it. Those truckies who use it without ever having it collapse have obviously got into the habit of always tying it the same way, so they would never use the 'left handed' version. For somebody like me who hasn't been taught the correct way, I might tie it one way or the other depending on how I orient myself towards it and I'm really starting to think one way is inferior. After all, the geometry does change slightly, so it makes sense. You got the loop I meant - the half hitch. I'm just talking about a RH or LH half hitch, if you see what I mean.
TuckIE hitch!?....I'll be damned. I've seen videos of guys doing this & calling it a truckers. Thanks for clearing it up. My dad taught me the truckERS hitch years ago, but yes...that slip knot can be a struggle to undo. Can't wait to pass this on to the old man! Thanks again.
Correct, correct, correct. Finally somebody gets it right. I would never use a 'trucker's hitch' because a slipped overhand knot will jam supertight under load (like any overhand knot), and will be hard to untie or pull out (can damage the line even). The Truckie hitch however has no knot in the line and simply falls apart when load is removed. Originally called a Wakos transport hitch (and even older names). When finishing you can make two half-hitches around the line, or a round turn and two half-hitches around the anchor object.
The way you've tied this will not hold. The off-side leg of the loop around the tree is just a slip knot and will come undone with a slight tug on that side of the loop.
Well...my dad worked for a moving company when I was a kid & always used the truckERS hitch. Naturally, they always had to secure the furniture to the inside tie downs, & the truckers hitch was quick & effective...so it does have its uses. Trucking a heavy load on a flat bed?...I would use the truckIE.
I have now learned both and seen the very best of many programs! You are up with the very best or the very best. Well done! I drink to Your good health and learn it all tomorrow! Richard
Thanks for the video on different options for doing this knot. But at 3:07 the loop that is on our right...if you pull this loop to our left...this hitch comes undone. Isn't this dangerous for tying down expensive cargo? Yes, it is easy to remove, no slip knot...but the fact that it can come undone easily concerns me. I've seen comments below also mentioning this.
StaticRome, I've seen people use the truckie hitch for lashing cargo with no problems. On the other hand, I'd go with what ever makes you feel more comfortable. Sometimes you can't put a price tag on peace of mind.
@@StaticRome Aha, that's it. It's important to keep in mind many knots have a preference for certain ropes. Early on, when this knot was created, the rope of the time was thick hemp style rope. In fact, at the time, the knot was called a "Wagoner's Hitch" I imagine with the new super cordage, such as amsteel and others, this is likely not a very safe knot. Thanks for clarifying. Context is key. Perhaps I should have been better at providing the proper context. My apologies
With the amount of friction on the truckers I'd guess the advantage is closer to 1.5:1. The big disadvantage of the truckie is when securing a load if that line comes slack it can fail.
Absolutely agree David. Works perfectly,, acts as a stopper knot that won't slip through the little half-hitch, gets no strain, so unties easily. I think your idea is the first time I ever saw a perfectly excellent way of securing a Truckie's hitch from ever collapsing. Thanks!
You can also place a toggle in the loop and pull it to the bite and it will not come out. I have experimented with this many times and no matter how tight you pull it, it will stay secure.
Question, when this is done correctly, if you take the small loop "bite" that you have in the truckie knot and pull toward the tree does it break free? or im making the small loop for the bite wrong, watched it 10 times, it holds great, but if you tog the bite just a little it folds it up
What the video calls a trucker's hitch is what I would see people call a trucker's hitch that didn't tie down loads for a living. Your truckie hitch is what trucker's called a trucker's hitch. I learned how to do this in the 60's working in the ag business.
Keep in mind that neither of these would be a knot for life safety. For that, you would want to use an in-line eight for the loop. My heavy rescue instructor called it a modified truckers hitch. And yes, if it gets wet, it will be hard to get out, but eights come out pretty easy in the long run, much easier than a bowline.
Alpine butterfly loop would work even better. Easier to untie. Fig. 8 isn't much easier to untie than an overhand knot...which is abominably hard after great strain.
I beg to differ, once they have been put under load Figure of eights can seize up like epileptic under strobe lights, I use them when I want semi permanent loop. I would much rather undo a bowline.
Scorpion...agree. Slipped overhand knot, slipped fig. 8 knot are atrocious to undo after strain. Alpine is better, but as you say, a bowline would be best, tied in the line (the 'rabbit' is a 'bighted rabbit') and would be easiest to untie after strain.
I was having such a hard time figuring out the Truckie Hitch and this was definitely the best video I found, thanks! I do have a question, what if the rope you are using is too slippery? When I was trying to do this, I felt the rope kept wanting to come out of the loop, what do you do? Could I throw a cheap carabiner in the loop to avoid it from slipping out? Run the rope through it and then tie a half-hitch? Trying to figure that one out.
Thanks for the demo. As much as I want to trust that half hitch under tension on the truckie hitch I worry about it holding the tension under gusting winds. I would probably tie it with a marlinspike hitch instead.
Scorpion...that's not really a marlinespike hitch it's a slipped overhand knot. And under great strain just try to untie it afterwards, or pull it out clean. Damage the line. Do as David says, or some people put a second half-hitch/loop above the first for more security (two half-hitches around two bights).
Maybe you misunderstand, I was saying how I would tie it. I have my reasons for how I tie my knots. I will try it your way to compare. Testing will show which is better.
Ok, so you would try a marlinespike hitch instead of a slipped overhand knot. Btw, after trying out how to best secure the iittle half-hitch you mention, I've found that simply half-hitching the bight at the end around the standing line makes it immune to collapsing. Acts as s stopper knot that can't slip through the little half-hitch or vice-versa. And there's no strain on it so it breaks easily afterwards.
Let me try again. A standard sheepshank secures the bights with half hitches, this only holds under tension. A sheepshank tied with marlinespike hitches holds constantly. So secure the loop with a marlinespike hitch. Done right you don't have to worry about tying off that loose micro bight at all. I'm sorry, if I had a camera I would make a video and show you how I tie it. It's true this will be harder to untie than a standard truckee hitch, but having had a tent blow out in freezing rain and being on the ragged edge of hypothermia has crystalized my priorities. It is far better to need a marlinespike after the storm than have no shelter during it. I hope I got it right this time.
Nice video, I'll try to use the truckie hitch in the future. I always use the trucker's hitch or the aka hay hauler's hitch. I contend your mechanical advantage is 1.5 at best. Two length of rope are active so if there was no friction on the tree or at the knot there would be 2 to 1 advantage in a fantastical laboratory circumstance.
James E The end that is after the last pulley or loop is not active. The load is being moved by two active segments so for every inch of rope you pull the load is moved 1/2 inch. This is 2 to 1 minus friction.
James E Well I read that and disagree based on the principal of both objects moving does not change the amount of mechanical advantage. Some tie the truckers hitch back with an extra leg that does make it a 3 to 1. I disagree with the wiki article. IF they had a diagram of their 3 to1 it would be much easier to evaluate.
Thinking about it I could invent an application that would achieve 3 to 1 with your rope and knot configuration. If both points were fixed and the rope went around an object where all three segments became active and it was cinching down on the load. Three active lines = 3 to 1. In drawing between 2 objects it is clearly a 2 to 1 regardless of the 2 points being fixed or moving.
Both are 3:1 pulley systems. Until now, I didn't know they are called different names. Some use Alpine Butter Fly in place of slip knot. I wonder what's the name for that.
I did this about a dozen times now, the knot works somehow but whenever there is enough tension it just comes loose. So it's the very worse knot, at least with my rope
Personally, I avoid knots that "come apart easily as soon as the tension is released" for tie downs while traveling. A minor shift in the load can cause your tie down to come completely apart. I'd rather spend a little extra effort untying at the end of the trip.
