Trucking , How to change an air dryer filter. 

Thank you for watching !!!! I’m glad I could help you out and give you an ideal of how to clean this out a simple way !!

These days shops can really eat you up on any kind of work .

That’s right !!!!

I have been doing this for many years and I can tell you , nobody can afford to so to garages for every little thing. My advice is to try your best on staying on top of everything and get everything serviced or repaired as it’s needed , and don’t blow your money going on shopping spree’s. You have to treat this like a business , because it is . Always prepare yourself for the worst , so you and your family can live the best . I have a lot of friends that do logging and they do very well .

Your very welcome !!!! Thanks you for watching !!!! I am very glad I could help you out !!!

Yeah really needs blown out . I have over 1 million, 400,000 miles on the original air dryer ! Once a year you should change the cartridge. But at least you did change the cartridge, most people just wait until everything quits working or rots off .

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Your welcome

Thank you

Your welcome!!! I enjoy helping out!!

That’s great !! Thanks for watching !!!

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100% your welcome !!!

Thankyou!!! I try to be !! Thanks for watching and subscribing !!!

Thank you !! And thank you for watching !!

Glad you enjoyed it !!

I’m just not familiar with that setup , if I was I would help you out !

@@Starkeyfamilyfixing I found out. The filter is very heavy. I will simply replace it. The set up is the same as yours. Its just under the cab. It is just the Simple Trucker Stuff. Thx 4 the bid.

I try my best !!! Thankyou for noticing !! And watching !!!

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I try to brush the housings teeth on a normal basis lol 😂

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My system is factory, never been changed 1 million 370 thousand miles. Guess what I do works well .

And what is YOUR suggestion?

Yeah , if it’s got a screw on filter same deal .

Starkey Family Fixing and Rigging Up • 0 seconds ago I would just do one of a few things in this case. 1. Vise grips with a rag on the threads to back it out . 2. Cut it out of the filter , once you get to the threaded section use a grinder an wear the metal thin that the threaded section is screwed into , while being careful to not damage the threads. 3. The dealer would be the last choice unless they have the part on hand and its very cheap , but if you do not feel comfortable or do not own the tools needed , go to a machine shop in your area , guessing it would be cheap to have it removed because with the right tools this is only a 5 min. job

DDEC 5 , Egr with no exhaust filter .

It has had a complete overhaul, turbo ect . But I bought a complete factory Detroit kit from the dealership, I bought a new turbo from garret it’s a factory style, the only real upgrade is a K&N Air Filter lol 😂 , put that in after I bought it in 2008 .

@Starkeyfamilyfixing Nice. I was wondering...my truck has had the egr and dpf "fixed". So do I still need to maintain the dpf? Or does it basically "not exist"?

@@johncalvo1743 well yes and no , even though it is fixed lol , the system can still cause you problems. Just it would be more rare to not at all for the filter to stop up , leaving you with just electrical issues D-Rating you sometimes.

No !!!! Don’t put any cleaners in your here !!!

It depends on if your air dryer is setup like mine , there are a few different types .

@@Starkeyfamilyfixing its not.

Sometimes that still happens!

Very much so !!!!

You may not need to ..... if its threads that are broke off in the housing , then you can use a left handed drill bit to unscrew them out , or possibly buy an easy out set . Here is an Amazon link to a set that covers a lot of sizes . amzn.to/34qUcr8 . Let me know if this helps you .

Without seeing a picture, this is what I am guessing your needing .

@@Starkeyfamilyfixing I am trying to attach a photo but can't figure it out

@@Starkeyfamilyfixing thanks for the info. I have fixed that problem but when I took it for a short drive the back brakes were hot and smoking like they were locked up

@@davidhumphreys8488 ok replacing the air filer would not cause that , if there was not enough air going through then it would affect you whole air system. If your back brakes are heating up this is what I would do. 1. Freshly grease your whole truck to the point you have grease pushing out the old grease on everything. 2.Check your brake shoes for cracks and missing springs. 3. Check the adjustment on your slack adjusters , all trucks have been mandatory to have automatic slack adjusters since 1994 , but once they get wore , they do not function like they should . As an example I have had them go bad before on the Freightliner century I used to own . One of them when bad and kept going out of adjustment, so I ended up replacing all 4 on the back of the truck then replaced the two on the front to make sure they were all good . In your case check the adjustment then keep an eye on them . I would recommend if one is bad replace them by the the axle meaning the left and right side on the same axle . Let me know what you find !

Once yearly is normally great , in saying that , if you do a lot of drop and hook on random trailers , and on trailers in really bad environments then 2 or 3 times a year . I would advise doing it right before winter and before it gets really cold though if you normally pull the same trailer .

Good deal !!! Thankyou for watching !!!

Haaaaaaaaa !!!!!

That’s right !!!

I use the Scuba Radius. For over 20 years now. It's expensive, but you will never use another toothbrush again!

That’s one of the quickest way , you can with the air tank cable but it’s really slow .

Pull the gland hands off the trailer then push in the valves. Quick and loud air release.

And here is another way

I went to a Napa auto parts store to get a good quality one .

You can also use a filter strap wrench with a socket adapter to attach a breaker bar to it. You can get it from Amazon.

@@thereviewer4173 the reason I don’t use a strap wrench that’s made of fabric is that these tend to lock on very tight . I have broken an oil filter wrench that uses a socket before. So on these I would suggest a chain style . I would suggest a parts store that sells a good quality chain wrench like a NAPA .

NAPA store

@@Starkeyfamilyfixing It depends on the quality of the strap wrench. You want a heavy duty one. If you can’t unscrew the filter, try tightening the filter a bit, and then loosen it up a bit. You repeat this, back and forth, until the filter unscrews with little resistance. This method is used for stubborn nuts and bolts. Also, stubborn filters could be an indication that the filter was tightened with a tool, which is a big no-no. Filters should only be tightened by hand, unless the filter instructions say otherwise.

lol

Tooth brush bristles still are not long enough to get into the pits very well , but great idea 💡!

I would just do one of a few things in this case. 1. Vise grips with a rag on the threads to back it out . 2. Cut it out of the filter , once you get to the threaded section use a grinder an wear the metal thin that the threaded section is screwed into , while being careful to not damage the threads. 3. The dealer would be the last choice unless they have the part on hand and its very cheap , but if you do not feel comfortable or do not own the tools needed , go to a machine shop in your area , guessing it would be cheap to have it removed because with the right tools this is only a 5 min. job