Thank you, James! I needed to adjust my clutch because it was too tight. Your video was perfect to help me figure it out. I used to set a giant channel locks to hold the sprocket and a 1 inch deep socket to tighten the tension nut. I will be buying a 1 inch wrench to grind thin to facilitate easier future adjustments
Nice. I also found that once I loosen up both of the nuts on the left side, I could hold the right most nut and then just turn the mower blade by hand and that turned the sprocket and allowed me to tighten or loosen the clutch until it was perfect. Then I would stick a small board into the cutting blades to hold it in place while I tightened the outside nut. Thanks for your comments and glad it was hepful.
You mentioned that your mower ground speed was too fast. I don't like slipping the clutch so I purchased a speed reduction kit. It made a HUGE difference. Parts cost was $273 from my local dealer but I think it was worth it. Your video helped me do the install myself. Thanks!
Yeah I was wondering too about the impact of me slipping the wheel drive clutch. When I finally replaced the clutch I found the left side plate (for the reel blade) very worn down. But the other side (the drive plate) almost like new. While this is only a sample set of 1, it does suggest that slipping the clutch for the wheel drive does not seem to cause abnormal wear.
@@miguelalvarez947 As James said yesterday, you will have to re-adjust the clutch because the bolts that hold the adjustment were removed during installation of the kit.
I have a Tru-cut H20. When I engage the blade by pressing down on the RIGHT lever rod, the blades spin and are ready to cut. However, I noticed my reel mower rear wheels ALSO start spinning as well. This should NOT happen unless I press/engage the LEFT rod level. Can someone help me as to what's happening here. It makes cutting impossible as the mower is uncontrollable. Thanks.
To install the clutch assembly requires that you unbolt the clutch mounting brackets at either end. This means that any prior clutch adjustment will be lost and you will need to readjust the gap on either side of the clutch plate(one side of the plate is used to control the blade while the other side controls the speed). Easy peasy
I’m curious as to what is the connection between “scalping your yard” and “wearing out the clutch plate?” Also, why did you buy a new dive shaft and sprocket? Great video and very helpful.
With the assembly removed from the mower is it fairly easy to replace the bearings on the shaft? My H20 is making a lot of noise and I think it may be the bearings.
What makes that happen is people put the motor on full RPM Then Engage the Blades That is bad @ 3600 RPM Hitting a None moving part will ware it down faster . Here is the right way engage the clutch. first .. then rise up the Motor's rpm to full saving your clutch and giving it more life .Hope this helps someone .
I am trying to replace the entire clutch assembly but when I installed the new one, the gears would not line up. The clutch sprocket is 1/4" off of the motor sprocket. Is there a way to adjust to allign both sprockets?
I'm just asking here . . . Tru-Cut H20 new to me . . . and I notice a couple of the Zerks cannot be reached with my grease gun. What grease gun or connector do you use ?
I just replaced the entire clutch assembly on my H20. Do you know why my back wheels are locked? The chain to the motor is also locked. When I start the mower, the drive is on auto. What kind of adjustments do I need to make?
Hi. It was the pain in my left hand thumb joint that forced this invention. I can't say it's a real invention but a tad clever. My goal was to create a solution that could be fitted onto any current Trucut mower without a mower part change - and that is what I was able to do. I purchased a VERY cheap set of bike handle levers and cables (maybe $15) and used one handle lever and one cable. www.amazon.com/dp/B01M09DQK2/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_i_c_.2xXEbM4ZEE3E I had hoped that the handle lever opening (the loop, which normally would slide onto a bicycle handlebar) would slide neatly onto the Trucut handle... but it was too small. I'm pretty sure I use a grinder to cut away some of the loop until it would fit and then taped it down to hold it. After that I drilled a hole in the bracket that supports the wheel clutch rod and then epoxied an old bolt to the underside. The bolt gave me a place to seat the end of of the brake cable casing. The cable itself went through the hole and then up to the metal tab on which you rest your left thumb. I had to loosen up this metal tab and turn it in the opposite direction then I drilled two small holes in it. That allowed me to put the cable up through the tab, then back down through the hole. then I secured it back to itself using a wire nut off one of the brake calipers that came with the kit. Now when I mow I just use my right hand to squeeze the handle lever. There is a plastic adjustment screw that allows you to add or remove tension from the brake cable. If you send me an email I'll send you close up pics of each piece of the system. Thank you for asking about it. James
That hand brake cable is genius! I was working on the same idea with hand brake on the left side and a rod welded to the brake lever and then the tru cut rod. I just could not make it work. Your idea is awesome and so much better. I sold my Tru cut and regretted it. Bought another with the slow drive. It's an awesome machine and does not run away from me now. The previous mower was just too fast! It got away from me one day when I stumbled on my shoe lace that came untied. Neighbor thought it was funny seeing an old man run after his mower! By the way, what happened to Tru-cut? I wanted to order back lapping compound from where I ordered my Tru-cut out of Florida, and they only sell McClain reel mowers! Their Web site was awesome, and had great videos for self help repairs for the machine. But no more. This is dissappointing. I love my Tru-cut!
Philip Suter I found another method that does not involve drilling a hole in the metal thumb press. My brake cable eventually broke right at the drill hole. So I did what any guy would do : zip ties. I put a loop in the end of the brake cable then secured it with 2 zip ties. Then I put zip ties around the thumb press and connected them all with yet another zip tie. The cool part is that you can adjust the length of each zip tie until the clutch works perfectly.
@@jameshymel Any chance you could send me some pics of this modification? I've had my Tru-Cut for 3 years now and Just can't deal with the thumb strain I get each year. You adaptation is genius!
So is there a recommendation for the gap on the clutch that you might measure with feeler gauges? Has to be a spec for wear limits? How did you adjust the clutch without this?
Sure there is a gap spec. I measured it once. I found it’s easy to determine by feel as well. Too tight and you will find you can not lock the lever down without excess force. I started with the 2 plates separated by 1/16 or so then moved the lever and if too hard, backed off the tightening nut a turn ... until it was comfortable.
@@jameshymel have you found a chain lube that works well for you? I have used motorcycle type but it’s very tacky and attracts grass and dust. I’ve tried some dry type for bicycles but not sure it’s lubing well enough.
Why my reel mower push in blade clutch drive clutch kicks in at the same time? Is it supposed be that way? I have a coopers skipper reel mower about 50~60 years. It has same clutch same system as your TrueCut reel mower. So I just mow using blade clutch on without drive clutch unless difficult terrain when mower stops moving forward then push in drive clutch. Is it normal or is there are some clutch related issues?
Thanks for the video. On my Trucut, the wheel clutch seems to some loose even though I've tightened the nut on that side. (I adjust the clutch gap to 28/100") When I put a heavy load on the wheels, (ie going up hill) the clutch gap widens for some reason. Any ideas?
On the left side and right side are mounting brackets that hold the Clutch assembly to the frame. It’s possible one side has come loose which would allow the clutch to move.
@@jameshymel Thanks for replying. I had the opportunity to look at it more closely with the motor off. When I push the lever to engage the wheel clutch, for some reason it turns both of those nuts (ie loosens them). Not sure why that happens. I looked at the assembly for the reel clutch side and wheels side. The parts (springs, bearings and washers are for the most part installed symmetrically. However, the washer (one on each side)don't seem to be installed symmetrically. When I look at the Reel Roller's diagram of the clutch assembly, however, it looks like the washers are installed the same way as my mower, so I guess that's not the reason why the nuts are loosening on the side that drives the wheels.
The reel on my Tru Cut 20” mower just keeps spinning when the clutch release lever is released. Should i tighten the clutch or loosen it? What can be the problem.
Hi Miguel. Please watch this video and see how the blade clutch works. When you press down on the clutch rod you Should see the clutch element move slightly to the right and your reel will begin spinning. And as you pull the clutch rod back the reel will stop. Has your reel clutch been working before and suddenly just stopped or has it always been like this? Eg...When you crank the mower the blade starts spinning?
Hello James, in rebuilding the clutch assembly, where does the T90209 HHCS (hex bolt) and T31368 STEEL STOP SUPPORT go in the assembly. Mine was missing the HHCS (bolt) and the STEEL STOP Support just fell out. I have reviewed the diagrams and I cannot for the life of me figure out where the 200 AND 8 go in the shaft assembly. Here is the link to the diagram. reelrollers.com/product-category/tru-cut-replacement-parts/tru-cut-27/cluth-assembly-27/
Hey! If they had pics of the parts online I could quickly tell you. You can text me pic of a part and I’ll tell you. 650-703-7226. You can also call the reelrollers # and they will help you. They are good with phone support.
