70. How can I adjust my clutch and drive disc 

Thanks Jim. It's refreshing to see a person who knows what he is talking about. Thanks!!

Thanks Jim for the help! These are the best machines! I have a '87 and '92 and they run great!

We emailed a couple years ago when I got my snapper RER to rebuild. After we spoke, I got cancer and had a long recovery. Financial situation is still tough but bit by bit I've been buying general maintenance parts for it. I'm determined to get it done this year. Got most everything torn down, ground down and primed or painted. Just finished the engine and in a few more weeks I'll be reassembling the rider. So glad you have this video in particular because I was getting ready to assemble the chain case assembly and drive and wasn't sure how to make sure the new clutch assembly needed to be adjusted. You're a lifesaver for many of us!

I just got my first Snapper, and your videos have been a tremendous help. Thanks you Jim for your time and effort making the videos.

Great video. Always helpful, and that's much appreciated!

My girlfriend has the exact mower you are showing in your videos. She has had a couple of problems with it. Due to you videos and explanation in them, she thinks I am a Snapper certified technician. Thank you very much for your do-it-yourself explanations on all of your videos.

Great info on the drive disk and clutch. That model is a great idea and makes the explanation and compression so much easier. Mine is a year 2000 13hp series. Your vid saved me many headaches. So, thanks much.

I've gotta thank you so much for you taking the time to educate folks and myself on repairs. Just got mine moving today because of the knowledge ur spreading. Thanks again. I've liked and subscribed...

You appear to be one of the most helpful, and friendly people on RU-vid. Thanks for the broadcast.

Thank you for this video. I ordered a new disk cause I could not climb my ditch. Adjusted the spring as u showed and it work perfect. Will hold me over till new disk clutch comes in. 4 ur old video still helping ppl out. Thank you.

New to the old snappers and they seem like simple machines but still have lots to learn. Thanks for the videos 👍👍👍

Man! You are an all-right dude, and a good mechanic. Good teacher too. I've learned quite a bit just watching two videos so far. Subscribed. I have a feeling I'm going to learn a lot about working on my Snapper RER. Thanks much! BTW, your drive pulley adjustment jig is a great idea/invention.

Thank you so much for this. It really helped me . Got my snapper working like it should. Thanks again.

I just wanted to let you know this video greatly helped me adjust my crank pulley to engage with clutch and now that baby really moves. Thanks a ton

Thank you so much for your help. It’s nice knowing someone out there likes helping people.

Jim has been the most helpful in explaining how to work on the Snapper riding mower. Other videos have been trial & error with some poor advice. Jim is very knowledgeable and clear in his explanations. By watching Jim's videos, it has saved me time, effort, and frustration. He knows what he talking about and his methods work. Thank you, Jim!

Hello Jim, a real nice video on checking adjustments on a snapper rear engine mower. Thanks.

needed a new drive disc .followed your instructions and went in easily ,Thank you .

Always a learning session! Great vid!

I bought a used 301123 snapper and so far your video's has beed invaluable. Please keep uploading these and I hope you dont mind me downloading them.

Thanks Jim! Another informative video, they really help a lot!

Jim your many videos on old snappers have been very helpful especially clutch and drive disks to my son and I. We obtained a 1986 Snapper tl 16 for restoration.

Excellent Video and Tutorial... Thanks Jim

I making a check stick....thanks so much for your knowledge on these snappers machines..........iv got three of these. One has comet on the front end...

Thank you Jim. I have a 15yr old Snapper rear engine riding mower. My belt broke so I had to replace it. It starts ok but when I try to engage the mower deck it's not letting me. It has to be something simple right 🤤 Thanks again. You helped me last summer with a few issue on the same Old Snapper 👍

Thanks Jim, this was a helpful video.

Thanks Jim, you are a Blessing and have saved me so much time and money. Have a Blessed Day !

You have a gift to teach this subject.

Thank you Jim. Just picked up one of these (at an amazing friend discount, thankfully!) and it's already 7+ years old. Model 7800104. My buddy told me how diehard these are and hated to get rid of it but it was time for a mower easier on the back and that could handle his now much larger yard (retirement is good for him). He upgraded to the coveted zero-turn fancy one (at great cost new) but I don't blame him there...that thing is nice. That being said I am now here learning about this mower and I'm a car/motorcycle guy, not a small engine/mower guy; I can't know it all. 😅 Thanks for your informational videos and I love the details you provide, sir. I now--between this and the clutch adjustment videos--know what mine needs! Cheers, brother!

This guy knows EXACTLY what he is talking about. Listen and learn if you have forward drive issues. Like he said, the rubber drive ring comes in several sizes. Each manufacturer is different in OD size. Stick with OEM Snapper parts to be safe. And if your rubber drive ring doesn't go INSIDE the driven disks center hole area in NEUTRAL gear, you won't have forward drive motion. Just as he said it. Great video sir. Love the simple measuring jig you made to measure it out.

Thanks just swapped a 12.5 on to my snapper SR-120, it had a 10hp. So this video was perfect as the drive disk was not touching my clutch wheel once I swapped out and I need to adjust. Thanks again.

Great how to video thank you my snapper has been broken down for some time now and I’m confident this will do the trick

One of the best channels bar none on RU-vid today…subbed!

Very good explanation Jim

Love your show it has helped me greatly though I need a few more parts I will make it till next year

Don’t get any simpler than that!!!! Thanks Jim

This was very helpful thanks Jim! 👍

your videos have helped me a great deal . keep on making them and i,ll keep on watching them

Thank you Jim so much for all the help

Bought my house in 1990, owner was a 80 yr old lady, offered the mower at a great deal. Silly steering system, a rubber disc for a transmission, the tiniest tires, no hood no fenders no lights. 2024 this thing is fantastic, still in use today. Thanks for the spring tension adjustment on the drive wheel. Good for another 20yrs

Snapper rear engine mower is the best grass cutter ever! IMO!

Great demonstration! Way to go man I just got a snapper and i love the thing ive already fuxed like 4 things on it...cutting grass now boys YAY!!

Your videos are great thanks!

My DRIVE DISC always fell between these two measurements using the tool which I built as Jim suggested; this puzzled me to no-end, because my system was still slipping even with a fixed (bolted) clutch; It turns out, my RER's YOKE ARM (which is attached to the YOKE LIFT) was landing-on and hitting the rear of the RER chassis; The spring was on the strongest setting, but the YOKE ARM was resting on the chassis so the clutch-rubber was not receiving the benefit of the spring and could not tolerate any mild out-of-flat of the DRIVE DISC; my RER worked well until i tried to climb a mild-incline with it, and it would slip then, even with a new clutch disc (fresh tall rubber). I loosened the two set-screws on the DRIVE DISC and pulled up about 5mm and bolted it back down; this got the YOKE ARM off the chassis and that solved my problem. The other thing about my chassis is that the lip has a different height on one-side, versus the height of the other-side. The lip is not the same height all the way around. After this adjustment, i went back to the soft-start clutch, after many years of the fixed (bolted) clutch. I feel sure that my DRIVE DISC height is a few mm past the setting on the paint-stick DIY TOOL, by about 5mm (about 0.20 inches). I may soften the spring just one-notch next, then adjust clutch for the 3/16inch slack and the brake for the 3/4inch metric specified by Snapper. On some machines, the 5 13/16 inch max may be marginal like it was on my RER; maybe something is worn or bent - but watch that YOKE ARM, make sure that it does not 'bottom out' on the chassis wall, and if it does, just get the set-screws loose and get a puller on your drive disc (gently) (my drive disc is ALL STEEL, btw) - and give your RER an extra 5mm maybe (about 0.200 inch), and the YOKE ARM will now have plenty of room (more than 5mm, since the see-saw 'gain' of the yoke lift/arm assy amplifies that 5mm a bit).

Man this is great stuff

That's some good information thanks Jim.

Very helpful, thank you very much.

Fantastic video. Thanks

Thanks Jim!

Thanks Jim your video helped me.

Anytime I'm having trouble with my snapper you are my go to channel. Wish other channels where as thorough as yours. The world would be less broken. Cause we could fix things easier with proper info. (also had to google how to spell thorough cause its been so long since i had to spell it) lol

very helpful THANKS!

Thanks for the help today!!!!

Thank you I’m gunna try this in my snapper some times mine feels like it slips I’m planning on using it to plow this winter but need the drive disk to be more reactive .

Thanks Jim for referral back to #70. During the run through videos to #70, I found # 320. Next few "no grass" months, I am going to take a look at all shifting mechanism to get it back close to how Snapper made it.

I subbed, I've had snapper riders in the past, the most resent was a 2006 model, I completely rebuilt it from the tires up, but stupid me sold it for 1000.00, well today a buddy of mine was cleaning out his garage and he had.... Had.... Lol.... A 2008 model, well I grabbed it and a few other things as well, well a pressure washer, and a, toro super recycler, with key start, everything.... Oh the snapper has the bagging system included, all for 50 bucks, couldn't pass that up, now the snapper is in awesome shape, as is the other items I picked up, but this time, I'm going to redo the snapper like I did the other one, this winter, and I'm never selling it again, oh it came with the 12hp briggs, ohv... Don't like the ohv, but I do have a 12hp L head waiting to go on, I subbed so we can chat about the mower, and trade ideas, I see you have an extensive video selection on the snapper and am looking forward to watching them all.... Thank for doing that for us.... Can't wait to get started, on the snapper and your videos.

Thank you Jim I'm going to tighten the spring for pressure adjustment. Won't do this till next week.

Just subscribed to your channel. Nice information.

Great video thank you.

I learned something good job

Thanks Jim, subd this morning...

I found the simplest and fastest way is to just loosen the pulley in neutral, then slide it down until it hits the drive case and then slide a thin ruler or paint stirring stick as a spacer to keep it 1/16" away from the disk. that makes it have great traction without slipping. I find its just a lot easier to use a spacer, then trying to make a special ruler for it. especially on my 2013 snapper because it has no way to adjust the spring and its set to have much less pressure on the disk then the older models. when I set it as instructed in this video it would stop and just slip when I drove into 4" high grass. it drives properly now by using a ruler as a spacer, if i have any trouble slipping in the future I might use a thin washer to reduce the spacing a little more, but as jim said, you have to make damn sure the drive case has "some" clearance so it doesn't touch and rub on the drive disk

This was helpful i got 2 rear engines snappers

This dude is awesome!!!!

The driven rubber tired clutch disc is in the 15 dollar range, pop on a new one to renew great drive power and clean drive disc surface. Brake parts cleaner spray work well for me. My Snapper runs as a well oiled machine because it is one. Easily climbs hills in my yard, shifts on the go as smooth as can be. Has a settable detent to mow in reverse. A touch on the starter and 10 H.P. is ready to knock out mow chores with ease. 30" cut goes through small gates yet big enough to get good production. Sharp blades are easy with Snappers rear tip up service. While it is standing up a little spray of grey primer after deck wash out flush and dry, ( mine has a twin port hose attach to ease this) keeps any rust at bay, grease fittings as needed. With my my hand held belt sander, knife sharp blades are kept at the ready, to give great looking lawns. Large fuel reserve means hours of cutting before re/ fuel. Very tight turn radius. A small tractor cover and a little t.l.c. keeps it in top shape. All in all a superior grass cutting machine. 2002 10 Briggs 30" four cut edge blade. ( mulch plug type ) The best part of my Snapper is it was given to me by my good friend and neighbor Dick, a combat wounded WWII Normandy invasion. Purple Heart ( lost an eye and nearly his life then ) U. S. Navy Sea Bees. Dicks over 90 years of age and as sharp as a tack. He just bought a new rider and didn't need his old Snapper as much. He plowed snow with it too.

Thanks Jim

Watched this video twice 👍👍. I figured the lock nut out on the shaft which holds the blade adaptor on. I saw in 1 of your other videos changing out the bearings on the spindle. How would u get the blade adaptor off, i know it screws off, cause I can see that coming next?

Thank You sir!

If I were guessing about the clutch gouging, I would say it's from shifting from neutral to reverse or neutral to drive without using the clutch. Therefore allowing the disc to cut into the clutch.

Good job

Great video! Checked mine and it was dead on :( when I looked closer the yoke was worn 1/4" at the forward drives. welded it back to the 3/4" track side and it will climb mountains now. would have never found it without your video! Thanks!!!

how you doing I asked you to help me out on my snapper it didn't have no power going over here I just found this video it looks like that's my problem so I'm going to try that tomorrow I want to thank you Cajun land Church point Louisiana

Jim, Thank You.

Brilliant!

Thank You so much !!

Ok will check for them

Jim in video looked like clearance in end slot wasn't deep enough bottomed out on collar on lawn mower also radius on drive disk would hit before chain case moving drive wheel down ?

Aren't you the guy from this old house you know engines too?Nice

Thanks 👍

did you know that the late 1990s RER mowers have the black rubber plastic hub cup covers for the sdhaft seals, for both ends of the axle, stock from factory? my 1998 model year 9-horse one does. i have pics and model numbers etc. i just replaced the transaxle shaft boots on mine, a couple days ago(i got the mower free given to me and its actually very low hours use and in vey good low wear condition, it has no wear-slop in the shifting action(the hex transaxle shaft), or in the chain case shifting/sliding action- or in the hubs bushings(the solid steel later style ones)) because my shaft boots were totally gone/shot/busted up, very horribly,. so it turned out really nice and sealed uip great now and basically no wear slop anything at all anywhere now! and all for free, other than the only around 30-bucks for the hub/shaft seals and boots i spent) and its too bad that the replacement gray colred boot is a cheap taiwan produced part, and that the Briggs/Stratton axle seals are cheapo garbage China produced ones

Going to finally attempt this as I’m down to 1st and 2nd forward gears and even the slightest incline stops me. Thanks for the detailed vid and will let you know how it goes. If I need a clutch disk - where do recommend purchasing from?

Great video, Jim! My problem: have a Craftsman (MTD) 30" Model RER1000 rear-engine riding mower. Replaced the ground drive belt with what I was told from an online vendor was the correct belt - a 5/8" wide by 35 1/4" belt. Machine won't stop when brake pedal is engaged. Clutch isn't engaging. MTD later told me I was sold a belt 1/16" too wide (actual belt should have been 9/16" wide). I'm guessing it's riding too high on the variable-speed pulley. Is this why clutch won't kick in when brake is depressed? Instead of replacing 5/8" with correct 9/16 belt, is it possible to adjust clutch rod as a work-around? If so which way to turn the adjusting nut?

Ok bud first and foremost I have enjoyed your vids.. ok my question is... inside the clutch where the green material is there is a lever mechanism that rides up against that material...what is that? what is that for?... is it super important or can I do without it? Mine was missing whatever material was on there to grab the inner clutch ... it was just bare metal ... if I can do without that piece then that's fine I already don't have brakes and it's fine

thank you

Hey man just sent you a email about how to make a snapper faster I’d really appreciate it if you read it thanks!!! -Ben

Thanks

Hi, does the machine need to be in gear, neutral, or what gear when your adjusting ? Also should the parking break be set or not? Also mine looks different I see only one bolt on my shaft not two for adjusting, and also I dont have a chain on mine. So not sure will this measuring stick still work? I made it like yours.

Hi Jim, and thanks for the videos. They are all very helpful to someone who likes to do their own maintenance on their snappers. I have a question, has anyone been having problems with the drive disc being eat up in a very short time. I have 2 snapper (rear engine riding mower series 23 model 3012523BVE, 2007) that performed great for several years. As normal the drive discs do wear out. I simply replaced them both one month apart, no other adjustments made. Know, they only last about 2 to 3 cuttings and are completely worn flat. My yard is about an acre. I have gone through 6 drive disc just this summer and already the ones on the mowers are so flat the mowers can not pull themself. I’ve looked through all of your videos, check all the settings you’ve shown but still they keep eating the drive disc. I even completely disassembled the rear end of one thinking something might be wrong with the drive train. No problems found. The only thing I can think of is the rubber they are using on the drive disc may not be as good as it use to be. Can you give me any suggestions as to where to start looking to solve this problem? I’m getting very frustrated with this problem and the snapper dealer is of no help

I made a fixture out of 1/4" plywood. Mine mower is slipping and with the fixture, it is below minimum. I cannot find any bolts in the collar that holds the disk on the shaft. Looks like I might have to pull the engine to check it out in how to adjust the distance. It's too crowded by just standing the mower up to check this problem out. Thanks on the fixture tip.

awesome! this helped me out a lot!

Jim, I am replacing my drive disc and used your video to make the measurement. The way I see the measuring, the 3 3/4 inch is from the bottom of the chassis to the face of the drive disc. If you measure the bottom of the engine adapter plate, the red metal plate, then the measurement would be a bit longer. If the notch on the top of the stick, is 3/8, 1/4, or 1/2 inch deep, the side of the stick that is on the outside of the circular engine cut out on the chassis, will touch first, before the other side touches the red engine adapter plate, as it is higher up, a wee bit.. Am I correct here?

Question I have a Troy Built rear tine tilled from 1980. Changed the belt and can’t remember how to thread the belt around the idler pulley. Got a video or suggestion? Thanks!

I replaced the friction wheel without a problem, but after a short drive, when I looked back at the new friction wheel, the rubber was all scuffed and chopped already within just a few minutes. What might be causing that wear? The aluminum wheel it presses again seems smooth.

Jim, I just replaced my aluminum drive disc and new clutch disc. I used the max. distance measurement of 3 13/16. I reattached the left shell fender. When I place the shifter in any forward gear, there remains a gap in between the clutch and the disc. I am able to place five feeler gauge blades in the gap that total .102 of an inch (.024, .023, .022, .021, and .012), to fill that gap. If I move the drive disk down that much, it would just be touching the clutch face. How much total should I move the drive disc down to ensure average torque needs?

I have a problem with my rider snapper mod E331518KVE The disc in gear is blocked while in neutral it turns. The gears are engaged, but the wheels do not move, only by pushing the vehicle by hand thanks to the help ti seguo dall'Italia. Jim can you tell me the distance measurements to the center disc plate or how to make my disc stuck in neutral gear no

Hi! You said you have a video on replacing this engine but I can’t seem to find it. Can you place the link to it here in the comments? Thank you!

I let off my clutch very gentle but when ot engages it bucks really hard. Makes driving near my fence very interesting. Any recommendations?

Clutch disk and plate disk both rotates when I engage, still mower doesn’t move . Chains are fine. I had disassembled it to put new boots and now I have this problem. Maybe clutch wire lose? What do you think Jim?

My son replaced the clutch disc and it worked fine a few times. Then when he went to use it it doesn't have a reverse and the neutral is now in the reverse position. Charles Mobile.Al

hi jim , what about weedeater one 261 , how do you replace it . I cant find video for tat. please and thank you.