Thank you so much for your work!! Actually the red double push rod is from banjo, I have the same one mine and was tried to figure out how to adjust it. You helped a lot. Thank you!
Awesome video!!!!!!! I always wondered if there were different effects for the different kinds of rods. This video is a whole new world of info for musicians who have never really thought about what makes their instruments tic. Thanks so much for sharing Bryan!!!!!!! You've taught me a ton & given me another metric ton to think about!!!! lol
Thanks for this Bryan - very interesting. What are your thoughts on taking all strings off at once versus changing strings individually to avoid sudden change in stresses on the neck?
Well... it would be extremely hard for me to do a neck reset, replace a bridge, make a new nut/saddle, or scallop braces w/out taking all the strings off. And so what if the neck experiences "sudden changes" in stress? I have yet to see one fall off, whiplash backwards, or do anything strange whatsoever. I don't think there's any concern where the NECK is concerned. If you look at the geometry of it, the tension really runs _down_ the neck from nut to heel. It's not a perpendicular force at all. I do mandolins and archtops one string at a time so I don't lose the bridge position. Arch tops _seem_ like they take a little time to come back to life after having tension removed but that could be my imagination running away with me.
That would be a compression rod like some electrics use. It's a super simple, cheap, not all that great way. As you tighten the nut, the curved rod "compresses".
Oh, of course... the single rod that has the threaded nut and nothing else. Honestly... I think those are terrible and the only reason to use one is economics. Fender uses (or used them), too. I pulled one out of a Squier electric bass decades ago. It would NOT hold the relief. I installed an LMI rod with carbon fiber alongside, set the relief, and have not touched it for 18 years. I'd personally never put one IN a guitar. What advanage do they have?
Bryan Kimsey No real advantage, other than they are easy to make if you need to replace one. If the truss rod channel is routed for one, it is more or less your only option, unless you modify the channel to accept one of the other types. Oh, and they are also quite light if that is a concern.
@@Bryankimsey I am working on (first time ever doing this) a strat style neck with a single rod that anchors at the nut end ( a plate fixed at the end in a T slot) and tightens at the body. It has a curved or downward bow channel. To remove it I had to remove the maple strip and thinking about replacing that with carbon fiber in place of the maple,will still be the same rod Wondering if the CF will form downward pushing the rod into the channel or if it will be too stiff to do that. May have to pre shape the CF ? Not sure you have an answer,just looking at videos about truss rod channels etc.. What happened is the neck was twisted so I removed the fretboard stringed it up in a jig and routed the neck flat which exposed some of the anchor and nut of the truss rod. Went a little deeper for the rod and now need to replace or cover over the channel with maple strip or carbon fiber. Make sense ?
Kimsey Lutherie I just built a box shaped acoustic guitar latter braces mahogany neck and put a channel in the neck with a round piece of steel rod used jb weld it is installed really tight in the neck think it well help the neck?
Kimsey Lutherie thinking about building 12 string in future thinking about doing none adjustible rods thinking either 2 steel rods or 2 titanium rods what thinks better steel or titanium? want make it so can tune it up full pitch so dont have to half step down what none adjutible rods recommend and how many?
@@Bryankimsey it's my only amp. Not a huge fan of the "dial-omatic" knob for the effects... especially in the dark! Love those subtle, but nice effects though!!
Carbon fiber is okay if you use a big enough one. It's not stronger than steel, it's just stronger for the weight. I'd use epoxy and not fish glue. Fish glue is great for perfect wood to wood joints. Epoxy and carbon fiber go better together
Bryan, what are your thoughts on the fixed truss rods in the Authentic series Martins? I really want a 1937 D-28 AA, but am concerned about lack of adjustability. I live in Arizona as well which of course is more dry than most parts of the country...Thanks, Steve
Well, I have 8 acoustics and only 1 has an adjustable rod. All the authentics have nice low relief. You need to keep ANY guitar humidified in AZ and you'll be fine. Also, the non adjustable rod is part of the sound, because of the way it works with the neck. Passive resistance vs active tension.
Kimsey Lutherie Are those square tube rods glued in from the factory or not? I have taken apart old Harmony guitars in the past to do some repairs on them some have steel rods under the board but there not glued in there is a channel they set inside the truss rod slot no glue. If I took old steel rod out of the Harmony neck and glued it back inside the neck would the steel rod work better you think?
I have a Brian moore i:13, 6 string Electric guitar. I am trying to find any info explaining how to adjust the truss rod..There is no truss rod access at the headstock. It appears to be assessable like the old fender electric guitar necks, were you adjust the truss rod by removing the neck so you get access to the end of the neck above the neck pick up. I want to lower the action just a touch.. because my guitar has a synth pickup built in,I need to know if I can lower the action without negatively affecting my synth tracking.. The only information I could find on the Internet with the words Brian moore and truss rod adjustment were-- have a qualified trained technician adjust your truss rod..
I have no idea on this. Maybe someone who reads this will know. I wouldn't THINK that lower the action a tiny amount would affect anything. Try it and see I guess.
