You are my 'go to' person on RU-vid for anything knitting. I use this cast on pretty regularly, now that I understand it. I particularly liked how you removed the knitting off the needles to show how the stitches formed the tube. Thank you!
I know this is 4 years after you've posted this video, but I have learned so much! I am a fairly new knitter and am beginning a project that's a pretty big leap in skill level for me. I am probably responsible for 100 views of this video in the last week alone! But I've gotten the tubular cast on finally. You explain things so well, and even though I have to look up a bunch of terms and techniques, and refer to some of your earlier videos (GREAT structure and detail in how to do all that), you've helped me launch this next level of my knitting. Thank you so very much.
Everything she said stands for me too. I haven't heard of this cast on till I saw a hat pattern that calls for it. Very well explained with good colors in examples easier to see. Thank you!!
Same here……shall keep this person close to my knitting station:) I have tried countless videos before hers and WOW . Such an awesome teacher!!!! It is so beautiful!!!!
I agree, too! I've been knitting all my life - I'm 65! I use the provisional cast on in the round for socks, but I need the flat cast on for the neck of a cardigan. There are always new things to learn in knitting. Love you lots, Roxanne!❤ 😘💕💕
Thank you so much for your clear explanations :D i'v been knitting (and crocheting) for more than 20 years, and I only recently learned about tubular cast on, but never trying. And today was the day :D
Oh wow this is such a simple way to understand the tubular cast on! I’ve been watching tutorials the last hour and could not figure it out. Thank you!!!
The best demonstration of a tubular cast on. Period! I have watched several different versions and this is the easiest to understand and follow along to. Also, taking out the provisional cast on was a breeze. Thanks so much for getting my project off to a smooth start.
You do rock! You always spend more time (organizing and editing) so we don't have to. You manage to give more instruction, and clearer demonstration than almost any others, and in half the time. Thank you!
Roxanne, your teaching methods are like a breath of fresh air... Thank you so much for your clear and concise “how to” videos, and this tubular cast on method is the best I’ve seen. Also, I just love your Casual Friday videos... always so very interesting.
I've watched so many tubular cast on tutorials but none so complete with a step-by-step explanation as this. Thank you! I've now subscribed to your channel.
I have been trying and trying and trying to get this right. I've watched more RU-vid videos on this CO than I can count. But I finally got it thanks to your awesome tutorial. THANK YOU!
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!! This was the easiest tubular cast on I've seen. Absolutely wonderful!!!! I've tried others and this one is by far the BEST!! What a blessing you are!!!
It has been some years since I last knitted anything and I had forgotten how to do this cast on. The video is very well presented with extemely clear instructions and commentary - thank you so much!
Great tutorial, Rox! Very good explanation and you educate so knitters understand why the tubular cast on is "tubular. When you understand why a certain cast on works, I find it easier to remember. Thanks!
This really helped me to see it done, and to see why it's called tubular cast on. If my book had a few more pictures and used more space for explanations you gave, then I would've felt more confident going through their instructions. I learned more than I thought I would in this video. A++
This method is soooooo much easier than all the other methods of tubular cast-on that I have seen so far. Definitely going in my toolkit for future use. Thanks!!
Thank you so much Roxanne for this demonstration. I have never done tubular cast on before and i'm knitting this summer tee pattern with 97 stitches to cast on and I'm using a pure linen yarn. It felt impossible with the method that was suggested by the pattern designer and I almost gave up. Luckily I remembered looking if you have a video on this and of course you have! It's so effortless compared to the other method and I'm no longer afraid of tubular cast on now!
Thank you for the tutorial and for the information about your tutorial list, it's like Pandoras box a real treasure, I never knew that before. Thank you for your fantastic knowledge. Take care.
Wow! You explained this so well. I did this for a sweater by just following the directions, but I didn't really understand what was going on. I really love how this cast on looks and look forward to using it often. Thank you so much!
Thank you, Thank you. I learned this tubular cast on with crochet. Until I found you, I had forgotten how to do it. My stocking hat will fit so much better.
Thank you so much for this! I did a different version on the sleeves of a sweater, but had to correct some very loose stitches which was incredibly annoying. I tried your method on the bottom of the sweater and it turned out great! No tweaking needed. This will be my go-to now.
Wow. Will wonders never cease! I'm always learning something new from you. Not sure when or if I'll use this but, I know where to go, to find it. Thanks for posting.
It's exactly what I wanted to learn. Thank you so much. By the way, I am knitting now a scarf with double knit. It is so nice and it turns out to be a very good scarf
Woohoo! This is great! I’m already a huge fan of the provisional crochet cast on technique so now I love it even more! This tubular method is so easy compared to the other methods. You are an excellent teacher. Thank you for your channel! I subscribed, of course. I followed your other video to make a 2x2 tubular rib and it looks amazing. (Tip: there’s another way to reorder the 2 stitches. I learned it from the Sockmatician channel - Slip2TOG knitwise to the right needle which automatically swaps the order. Then put them back on the left needle 1 at a time, then proceed knitting in the 2x2 pattern.)
Thank you 🙏 I tried so many methods without success. They worked with a sample but the minute I tried with a larger number of stitches it got nasty. I was just about to give up then I watched this video and tried again. Success 💃🏼💃🏼💃🏼💃🏼💃🏼💃🏼💃🏼💃🏼💃🏼it was the different coloured yarn working the slip or purl pumps so I could read my knitting 🧶😘😘😘😘😘
Thank you so much for this video! I could not get the hang of the tubular cast on and I’m finding more and more patterns calling for this type of cast on. I basically taught myself to knit and only learned the knit cast on, so I kind of put myself at a disadvantage early on.
🫢😳🎊🎉🎊I DID IT!!!! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 YAYYYY!!!! Thank you so much! I watched so many tutorials, but this one made the most sense to me! I kept trying to talk myself out of trying it 😅, but I’m so glad I did!!!! Thank you so much for all your tutorials! I love them!!! I did join in the round after 4 rows…so the gap from the bottom, I’m assuming I use the tail to close it up? 🤷🏽♀️ Thanks again so much! I love to make beanies and this CO is awesome!!! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻💯🎉🎊🎉
even if you so fast doing..i repeated watch it until i understand the pattern, thanks for the instraction of tabular cast on.. i am a pilipino.. but i try to use write english..
This is the best video I’ve seen for this method and I’ve watched a few. Great job and thanks! I think I’ve got the technique now. And I’ve added you to my faves so I can refer back as needed.
I learn so much from your videos. Thank you for sharing your wonderful talent with all of us in you tube land. I am a new subscriber and I’ve been playing catch-up. Thanks again. 🌸
FYI something about your teaching method, plus holding yarn on the left (it hurts my head to see yarn in the right hand I can’t translate it well) makes your videos my favorite of all the options out there. I’ve been rewatching this video 20 times now (would have been less if I took notes but I only just thought of that XD. And I can rewatch without problem because it’s so well done. Truly not sure what it is about your mannerism or word choice or both. But you rock! I love the look of the tubular cast on and want to knit a kids hat for this little girl I want to teach to knit some day. When she’s ready. I’m hoping the hat inspires her creativity and drives her to want to learn how to do it. The better it looks the more success I’ll likely have in my goal. (Which of course she’s a child and we can just play hide and seek if she isn’t into it but I have a feeling based on what I know of her that she loves to learn )
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I’m going to knit the Ranunculus which calls for this cast on and the video they provide was not very helpful (at least for me). You’re the best!!!
I like the look and method of this CO, until I add more rows of ribbing. Then I get a couple of rows of really wonky looking sts before it evens out again. It seems to be a product of changing needle sizes, and I've tried just going down one size for the CO which makes the problem less severe, but still not attaining an acceptable result. Is there a fix for something like this? For this project, I need only 1" of ribbing; would it be terrible to just keep doing the double knitting rows and then join with the larger needle size on the last row of ribbing?
Would this work for a sweater knit from neck down that you want to come back after knitting the sweater and add a hood? As in: the pattern doesn't have a hood.?
I'm planning to use this cast on for a sweater using bulky yarn and size 9 needles, but for the ribbing at the bottom I'll be using size 7 needles. Would I still need to go down one or two needle sizes from the size 7 to a size 6 or 5, or is the size 7 fine since I'm already two sizes smaller than what I'll be using for the body?
Do you have any recommendation on how to make it look neater when you join in the round for the tubular cast on? Mine looks like there is a notch missing.
I have the same problem! I tried using the tail to close it up and kind of faux duplicate the missing bits but I'm not smart enough to get it to look right lol.
This was a great video and very helpful. I am wondering now how to join in the round. I'm worried it will have a "hole" since I've already knitted 4 rows.
The project I am starting will use size 6 for the body and size 5 for the ribbing (size 4 for the ribbing was too tight). Where you state to use 2 sizes smaller than project needles does that mean I should use size 4 or size 3 to start the tubular cast on? Update - I did test swatch on size 5's that was too loose, test swatch on size 4 was good. Sooo - I figured it out. Thanks for all your very helpful videos.
often in sweater patterns, it calls for a smaller needles for the ribbing. can i use the smaller ribbing-sized needles for the cast on or should i use an even smaller set of needles? i cast on with the ribbing needles and it seemed a little loose/squishy, but i dropped a couple of stitches and i’m not sure how to fix it so i think i’m going to start over..
If the ribbing is to be worked on smaller needles than the body of the sweater, and the cast on row calls for working on a smaller needle than the rest of the ribbing, then, yes, you would need 3 needle sizes. For example, if the pattern calls for US 5 for the ribbing and US 7 for the sweater body, you'd use a US 3 or 4 for the CO, and then switch to the US 5.
One small question. Does these 4 rows count as the rib pattern? My pattern tells me to rib1x1 for six rows. So taken that the tubular cast on has already 4 rows, do I only do four more? Thanks. Love all your videos. Wish you lived here in the Canberra,Australia Capital Territory so I could go and have lessons
The tubular CO doesn't create an edge, so I would probably count those set up rows as either 0 or 1 row of ribbing. If you are working multiple pieces for the same project, and they all have to have 6 rows of ribbing, the point is consistency between the pieces, and a desired length of the ribbing, rather than needing to have an exact number of rows. So pick a number of rows to work, and just be sure to work the same number on all the other pieces, if there are any.
I love this cast on, but man it's hard to join it in the round without a massive gap! I think I'm doing something wrong, but I'm not sure where. I did the setup rows and then joined, but at the start of the round I have a huge gap even though I tried to pull the yarn tighter to avoid this. I'll just have to use this for straight knits I think, can't seem to make this work in the round
I love the look of this cast on. I'm making fingerless mitts will this have a stretchy edge ? The yarn i a fingering wt. will this cast on work with that wt, and size 3 needle ? Thank you
It should be stretchy enough for fingerless mitts. The needle size you use will depend on what gauge you're trying to get, and whether or not size 3 will give you that.
Very helpful and clear instructions. I would like to know how to finish weaving in the cast on tail so that it looks neat and practically invisible. I'm making a hat using the tubular co in the round with 1x1 ribbing, and I'm wondering how to finish it off neatly.
I love this CO, but it doesn't work so well when your pattern thereafter is 2x2 rib.. Perhaps there's another of Rox's CO methods that is more appropriate
I have a question. I have done the tubular cast on, and then joined in the round after the first row in my pattern, as you suggested in the video. How do I then join or seam the tubular cast on rows which were worked flat? Would love a video showing this! Thanks!
I have a question about row counts. So by my count we have 5 set-up rows: the yarn over-knit one row and then the four repeated ones with alternating slip and knit stitches. Here's the question: When I'm following a pattern that calls for a specific number of rows, do I count any, some or all of these 5 rows in the row count?
It depends on whether you are using a pattern that calls for a tubular CO and you are using this method, instead of the one the pattern calls for, or if you are using a tubular CO in a pattern that does not specify the CO method. If you're using a pattern that just says, "CO X sts, and work 5 rows" then you have completed the CO when you have the full number of sts on the needle (the yo, k1 row does that), and then every 2 set of RS/WS set up rows are counted as 1 row. In addition, with any pattern, you're always free to work more rows or fewer of ribbing, based on your own preferences.
Yep this is what I was looking for! I got a knit sweater passed onto me and am trying to “read” the stitches used. Can I send you a photo of finished pattern pieces to help me figure out the stitch? It looks like a couple rows are a cable stitch of some kind. Thank You! Delma😀🧶
My lord. There are a thousand steps to this technique and they all feel unnatural. Your teaching is so wonderful and clear but there's just no way I'm ever going to be able to remember how to do all this. I have to literally follow the video frame by frame. I want to do this cast on for a sweater neck hole but I'm just an idiot. I will never be able to memorize all this.
There are lots of ways of doing a tubular CO (most have a number of steps), so it could be that this method is not the one for you! What I find most helpful when learning a new technique is finding the similarities to a technique I already know. One way to do that here would be to start at the beginning of this CO series, and see how you can use the crochet CO with the YO, k1 set up for a wide variety of CO edges. Nailing down that technique will allow you to only have to focus on what is different for the tubular CO variation. It does take time and practice, though, to develop the muscle memory for that initial set. Still another option is that if you want to create an edge that looks very similar to a tubular CO, you can do the Alternating CO, instead. Once you have sts on the needles, you launch directly into k1p1 rows. There are no rows alternating with k1, sl 1. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3F5k-v3Nqyo.html
Sock cast-ons for cuff-down. I've been knitting nothing but toe-up socks for years now, but I've decided that I would like to do a few from the cuff down. I have been using the CWCO, but I find that the small hook and the fine yarn lead to a lot of splitting. So, I'm looking for a nice stretchy cuff down CO. Is this it? I've done a lot of LOCT and TGLTCO but find that they do bind at my legs due to swelling. I don't have any problems knitting toe-up and using a sewn bind-off. I would appreciate your expert opinion. Thanks! and as always, you are my go-to instructor!
Typically, you need to adjust your technique for how you do a given CO when knitting cuff down, because the CO edge has to stretch as much as the fabric, and the fabric has to be able to stretch to its maximum around the mid-calf and across the heel diagonal. So it isn't the specific CO that makes a difference, it's ho you work the CO in that situation. This video might help ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-O9R_Ki4SeW4.html
@@RoxanneRichardson Thanks, Rox. I don't have a problem with the socks going over my heel cuz I just make the flap a bit longer. Learned that years ago! I did watch most of your sock tips and cast on vids before I posted the question. I knit a lot of dishcloths, too, and my LTCO and crochet cast-ons are never too tight for the fabric. Unfortunately, cotton fabric won't stretch as much as wool, so I am struggling with making my sock cast-ons stretchy enough.
@@sandeleh Again, the CO has to stretch as much as the fabric. If the CO doesn't stretch as much as the fabric, then it will be too tight, so you may need to adjust the way you are working your CO so that you get more stretch out of the edge, by doing something like spacing the CO sts further apart from each other as you CO. If the CO is stretching as much as the fabric, but the sock leg is still too tight, then you might need to change your stitch count. Making the heel flap longer increases the circumference of the heel diagonal, so you can get the sock heel past your heel. It doesn't enlarge the CO edge.
Best use is with k1p1 ribbing. Any sort of project *except* those where you need the edge to stretch as much as the maximum capability of the fabric. For most people, the cuff of a sock does have to stretch as far as the fabric is capable (50% more than the resting state of the stockinette) in order to get past the heel and to hug the leg just below the calf muscle, so it's probably not a good choice for socks that hit that length. Might work find for shorter socks, though, assuming the leg the sock is for doesn't change circumference dramatically in that short length. It's great for hats, mittens, sweaters, etc. Those garments need the CO edge to stretch, but the fabric doesn't need to stretch as much as a sock cuff.
I think I got the t-shirt at a vendor marketplace at a knitting event, years ago. The needles are Signature Needle Arts 32'' fixed length circular needles.
I find that the edge spreads too much if I don't use a smaller needle. I would suggest working a couple of swatches to see whether you prefer going down needle sizes or if you prefer using the same needle.
Yes, as Rox says, it makes a big difference, as I learned by trying. I did one with the same size needle and it was too bulbous. Then I did it with one needle size down and it was perfect.
"For knitting in the round, use the starting yarn tail to close the cap of the initial rows that were worked with double knitting"... ......as sort of a beginner, I need to ask, how?
There are always multiple ways of doing things, and often very different processes result in exactly the same outcome. The only way to know if you will get a neater result with a different process is to try them both on swatches and then compare. You might find the results are the same, but one of the processes is easier or more efficient for you. Another knitter will find the opposite to be true.
