Quick question hope you can help I've tried to speed up my Neptune 3 pro with orca slicer but I am getting nowhere. My prints double in time woth this slicer compared to prusa.
With the e-steps, I gotta say you have to be very, very good at using vernier calipers to make that kind of measurement to within 1mm accuracy, even averaging several runs. Speaking personally, if the measured extrusion is within 1mm over a 100mm run I'd totally just leave it be.
The teaching tech guide is the goat. I read somewhere that you should calibrate your e steps with no nozzle on a cold hot end. Then use flow calibration to fix dial it in from there.
I've heard plenty of folks say that as E-Steps are really about tuning the mechanical system. I don't know what to think about that. Mechanical systems can have different pre-loads, backlash, and behaviors under a real load, so I default to just hot extruding when tuning. Never been an issue for me.
@@MandicReallyI’ve figured out which chip looks best for flow but where do I change the flow rate in orca slicer? I don’t see any overall flow setting to change
@@shaark_1396 In your Filament Profile. Click the little pad & pencil icon next to the filament name, then you want "Flow Ratio" just underneath the Filament Diameter. Your percentage will be expressed in a decimal value. So 97% would be .97.
It is a hotly debated topic (pun not intended). I definitely don't retune it with different nozzles. You are really tuning the motor / extruder mechanical system. To me, those items can behave differently with a load on them, so I prefer to tune with a heated nozzle in place. I should try back to back testing sometime.
Thank you so much! I just spent the first 4 days of owning my new printer running it nonstop, and it's definitely in need of some tuning from the results I'm getting. Perfectly timed video for me man 👌
For PA tuning Ellis has created probably the best tool for dialing it in! His print tuning guide is also probably one of the best. He was able to get my Voron dialed in.
Why did you put boron paste on your nozzle threads? heatbreaks are made from badly conducting metals to stop heatcreep, increasing the heat conductivity with boron paste is fighting against this, I can understand putting it on the union between the top of the heatbreak and the heatsink though. Or have I misunderstood this process?
Right, I apply it to Heater Cartridge, Nozzle Threads & Heatbreak (where it meets the heatsink only). Nozzle threads allows better heat transfer from the Heater Block to the Nozzle. Sure some unintentional heat will be put into the heat break as a result of them touching each other, but that will always be true, that is the point of a heat break. You still want to promote heat transfer into the nozzle as much as possible, that is the heart of extrusion after all.
@@MandicReally I had an inkling that was going to be the case when I re watched that part of the video and noticed you put it on the lower part of the nozzle thread, cheers mate!
Great video, I've noticed different filament spools have different friction or pull force. The biggest difference I've seen is plastic to cardboard spools and doing the test with the filament slacked vs. tensioned has a larger effect on the cardboard spool.
esteps ... good suggestion.. tho I'm so stupid that I use pure black filament for my calibration.. having trouble making lines on it xD Tho right now my biggest problem is: what is the order of things at print_start? Having troubles with first layer, but is that due to me doing G28 before Gantry level? Gantry level before mesh? G28 before and after? (an yeh probe offset, but when is this factored in?)
What’s up dude…I’m only about two months into 3D printing and need a little help with my Neptune 3 Max…yeah, I bought that behemoth! LOL I jumped right into the bigger projects right out of the gate. I’ve printed a Predator’s mask…yes, one to look like it came off a 7+ foot alien! LOL A Jason Vorhee mask, and a Deathstroke helmet. They all look wonderful, but when printing smaller pieces I’m getting blobs in small areas in only some prints. Any ideas why?
What I tend to do for esteps is to do the measurements several times in a row (eg 5), add all the extruded length together then divide them by the number of measurements you added together (eg 5) to get an average extruded length over all of your tests, then adjust esteps based on that value, rather than adjust the esteps each time you do a measurement.
Same way I measure an engine. When using micrometers, it is easy to potentially tighten it too far or not far enough. If my average falls within spec, I just let it rip.
Hiya, can I have your help please I’ve bought a new Neptune for pro it prints the bench she will come with it absolutely perfect, but when I go to slice a crystal dragon with the same settings it prints and fails every time
Just replaced my hot end and nozzle. Been looking for a comprehensive tuning video. This checked al the boxes. Thank you for taking the time to put this together.
Is there any way u have some cura profiles I can copy bro I have the Neptune 3 plus and have not base profiles to go off in cura new to this and going nuts but this video is a big first step thanks
if i tune a profile on my printer for a type of filament , will be the same for every filament of the same type and from the same manifacturer or i have to redo the profile tuning?
12:41 cura has the ‘Add multi flow test’ under the calibration shapes menu, no gcode modifications needed. It also has a multi flow tower. Great video as always mate I am definitely going to use the K factor test you showed 👍🇦🇺😊
For the flow calibration, there are actually two factors here. Prusaslicer by defaults has a overlap % of 30% that is way to high . Thats what creates the bulges at the perimeters. I like to lower it down to 15%. You'll probably end up with higer flow value and smoother top surface overall.
I thought the way I presented it made it clear. If you command a machine to extrude 100mm and it doesn't, your extrusion will not be accurate. It can be under or over-extruding filament as the machine is just doing what it is told, but the values it has set are not accurate. I mentioned over and under extrusion in the process and showed it under-extruding so I didn't feel a need to break it down.
Did you have to enable PA in slicer/firmware? Case I have ran the chevron test on my Neptune 3 max from nothing to crazy and back again, but got the same result for all of the values.
You are using the Ellis 3dp test? No enabling was required, just running the test. Which firmware is your Neptune 3 Max on? I think the VERY early firmware doesn't have Linear Advance enabled but all subsequent ones do. I did discover a very strange thing where the Pressure Advance tower test in OrcaSlicer simply did nothing on the Neptune 3 Max, but the Ellis arrow test worked beautifully everytime.
It is not a fast printer, a machine with a bed that big is never going to be “fast” by todays standards. I’d say the absolutely fastest you can expect to reliably print is maybe 60-80mm/s on infill. You need to work on your slicer profile to improve speed but it’s likely that Faster will = worse quality.
G'day m8.....i just got a 3d Printer from one of the outlairs of the industry. A "Kywoo Tycoon Max" which when i looked at it was what i wanted but knew nothing about, now i'v had a month or so under my belt, and with incomming Copperhead heat break and Vanadium Nozzle from Slice Engineering to replace the stock heatbreak thiswill do 300c easy. The software does it out of the box, but ive had to learn how to run it faster. Now with your help all things you touched on are in this vid, are now in Prusa slicer and on my machine firmware, like the Pressure advance "K" is on my printer. Cheers m8 for this great resource, i knew E-steps but none of the more advanced stuff. From A M8 (mate) Downunder🙃
Ender 3 Pro; Cura I have to ask because I heard people say this, but I think I am misunderstanding the point. I originally thought you had settings per filament, as in type. No. Then I realized people meant for the different colors and types, not just Matter Hacker PLA plus. Now I am starting to think that maybe you mean specifically per roll? Do you make a new profile per roll? I doubt this will have much effect on the problem I am about to explain, but this could be a compound problem. Ever since I added the Micro Swiss direct drive, my printer have not finished 1 print. That was 2 years ago. For the first year, I swapped everything I could out. BTT board, new drivers, new filament, build plate, motors, the after market OS. Nothing is working. I bought a resin printer 2 months ago. I'm a kid when I buy shit. It never makes it home. This hasn't been opened yet. I find it easier to go to work, draw up my parts (I don't print figures or anything. I make functional household items.), and just machine them that way. I'm still intrigued by 3d printing but I am so turned off to it at the same time. Nothing I see helps me at all. I did see some stuff in this video that I have never seen anyone else talk about. Maybe that's something. Biggest thing. The direct drive is shit. One, it clogs. No matter what temp I use. Two, the printer fails at random heights. I originally thought it was the z lead screw. I replaced it and added a second one. It isn't a consistent height problem. The third thing, the gears just destroy my filament. No matter how tight or loose it is. Ironically, I have less issues with Microcenter brand, than Matter Hacker, but it still fails. Matter Hacker is the one that clogs the nozzle, and the gears destroy. Both just fail at random heights. End of novel.
Im from a family of successful professional artists. Im artistic but havent made any what id think of as "traditional" art like paintings or ceramics like my family members have. Really jealous of my cousin who went from doodling as a kid to painting really well by 18 to doing some of the most fantastical surreal pieces. These paintings are phenomenal. It's really not that often that an "emotional" piece conveys it so well while also being aesthetic. It's often some chaoticbinterpretive thing that rhe artist implies represents X or Y. I can FEEL the struggle in the blue one. The last one is super cool to me too but the blue masterfully, and SIMPLY expresses it No hate on folks, but a lot of folks call themselves artists when i think they're artistic. I grew up at art shows so i have kind of a specific thing in mind when someone calls themself that. It's a weird thing like saying "I'm cute" or "I'm funny". Its a paradox where you could know its true hut its really not for thr individuals to say. It's something that from a philosophy principle cannot be affirmed by the 1st person. It's up to the 3rd person to say that you're objectively attractive, or funny, or a creator of art. 10 people can say the guy pinning a banana to a wall is "art", but if 1 million say its pretentious crap, then it's not artwork. Maybe performance art, if anything. Again, it's no disrespect, those folks may find their niche of fans, but THIS is artwork. Something that came from an artist's soul and was transmuted into the physical. Even AI art is valid, painters thought photography was a dumb fad initially, but no one can deny that there is a difference between using your mind to refine an AI prompt for hours, or to refine a camera's settings, versus taking 100 hrs to paint a gorgeous painting. Keep going. The magic of the artist is how cool it is to see decades long evolutions directly expressed in their work
wow, thanks for your video! I would like to ask you...I printed this pressure advance model (Neptune 3, normal one) and the sharpest corner is at 1...is that probably ok?...
Bambu recommends manually tuning Flow Rate like I showed here, and I find manually tuning your linear advance values superior to the "Auto calibration" process. If you download the "SoftFever" fork of Bambu Studio you will be able to do this for both the X1C & AnkerMake M5.
Love this video, lots of good information for my elegoo neptune 3 pro. I do have one question, I find that I need to have the nozzle too close to the bed to avoid gaps in my first layer, but then it is almost impossible to get the material off the bed. Any tips?
Tune Extrusion Multiplier. If that is dialed in your first layer should be well filled in. If the top looks great, but the bottom is still an issue, then it is time to address Extrusion Width. I didn't want to make this a 30 minute video so I didn't go into that. Which slicer do you use? I generally run my First Layer extrusion width at about 10% more than subsequent layers to get better fill and squish.
@@MandicReally thanks for responding! I use Cura, if I do two top layers it has some gaps, but 3 and it looks good. I will give some tuning tonight and I suspect that will fix my issues. Thanks again for the help :)
Oh my goodness, I just started in 3d printing back in November. There is soooo much to learn. But I think I’m starting to understand this foreign language a bit better, day by day lol
Absolutely a Phenomenal video! I knew most of it but your simple teaching abilities cleared up a few things I wasn't clear on. Helped me out a lot. Keep up the great work!💪🇺🇸
Very reassuring for me that my tuning process almost exactly matches yours. Only thing I do different is for tuning is some of my printers are setup for multi material with shared nozzle so I will do an extra step of dialling in ramming and purge settings
Ramming and Purging hurts my head. I've only got one machine I have to tune that on (currently) and it is such a major pain. I'd tune all of my machines like this if it meant I could avoid that one machine and step.
@@MandicReally totally agree. Have hit a point where certain filaments I just don’t bother trying to get working with multi material, mostly silk filaments that cause issues. Have also written some post processing python scripts to improve reliability on colour changes a little bit from the Prusa slicer defaults
This might be a me thing but I'd really prefer lav mic audio over this studio voiceover the maker community has adopted. It takes away from the raw experience and I prefer less of a compressed bass heavy audio. Just trying to give some constructive feedback tho cause I really enjoy your content.👍
The problem is that filming while making a project and being concise / informative in the midst of the project is SIGNIFICANTLY more difficult than doing so afterward. If you record little bits here and there as you go, the video will almost always have redundant information & be much longer than necessary. Doing "VoiceOver" allows perspective on a project and to make the entire video more logical & informative. Don't get me wrong, I get what you mean. I prefer when folks talk to camera during a project, but I 100% understand why it isn't always the case. That said, this video was entirely me speaking to Camera as I was doing task or directly after completing them. It was not any "voiceover" in the traditional sense. I speak to camera exactly the same as I would if I was wearing a Lavalier mic, but I use a shotgun microphone that I think sounds more like my natural speaking voice than any Lav I've tried. I get what you are saying, but unfortunately as a solo-creator who has to make the projects, do the research, film the process, and edit the videos, it won't be changing any time soon. Getting videos out in a timely manner is challenging as it is, I have to do whatever I can to streamline the process.
@@MandicReally I don't have notifications on so I missed this reply but thanks for taking the time to address my comment. I rewatched this on loud speaker and the issue isn't as bad so I think it was just a headphone experience thing. This is a great video BTW for getting filaments dialed in so thanks for the hard work as usual.
This is awesome even though I don't know how to do half of it. By the time I get the filament/printer tuned I will run through a roll and can start over tuning the next filament on a new roll.
Great video! Super helpful tips here to for sure. I've been tuning my delta this weekend and the part on tuning extrusion was very informative. Thanks!
You have to go into the Config File on Klipper (Mainsail web interface will have access to this) and adjust the "Rotation Distance". That is how it is done in Klipper. I put a link to the Rotation Distance information in the "Calibration Information" section.
@@MandicReally Ahh okay makes sense, thank you so much for your help. This printer I received pre-owned from Elegoo has been a nightmare for me. Everything has been so off even with their own test files made for it. I'm pretty sure it's just over extruding even with their own branded filament though which is a headache. I appreciate your help, saving me a lot.
@@WaltechYT I've found Elegoo's filament overextrudes pretty easily, so I'd recommend paying attention to the Extrusion Multiplier settings for filament profiles after you do the Rotation Distance. That is the part that starts at 11:14 in this video.
If you don’t tune a machine in on a filament you are using, you’ll waste filament on prints you aren’t happy with later. Pull the bandaid the first time & just get a good tune. You won’t waste nearly as many prints on poor quality / failed prints. I did the math when I made this video and it was less than 200g of filament. Sure that’s not insignificant, but you’ll have a profile that should be good for as long as you use that material, spool after spool.
For my use cases I find the Bambu X-1 "auto calibration" lacking and tune it manually as well. It does not tune "Flow" only Linear Advance, and in my experience it often throws out the value it gets from the test pattern and it goes with a manually set value. It is "Calibration Theater". I should really do a video about it. I like the machine but yea...
I have to make this point. But until 3D printer firmwares start giving us individual "profiles" for each filament brand/type you have, I am not going to tune my printer for each different spool of filament I have. I just don't have the time or patience to do that. The general tuning I do to my printers works more than adequately enough for all of my filaments. For instance, 210c works for all my PLA, regardless of brand. 230c works for all my PETG regardless of brand.
Then you should buy one type / brand of filament and stick to it. 210 may work decent for many brands but 220 probably works better for some, or 205. If you are happy, all the power to you, but tuning individually will improve results. To achieve what you are saying, folks would have to stick to just one brand for each filament. And even then, sometimes different colors behave differently. Filament is a complex mixture of chemicals. It’s going to vary by batches, color, brands, etc. Printer manufacturers can’t be responsible for what random $10 brand of filament someone is buying. It’s why companies like Ultimaker or Bambu sell printers & filament. It’s the only way to control the entire system from top to bottom.
@@MandicReally - I’m in need of a large format to round out my machines a bit…. Was a toss up between the Kobra max and Neptune 3 Max, but the more I hear about the Neptune the more that looks like the winner for my needs (whenever it comes back in stock). Looking forward to hearing your comparison when you get it ready.
What do you use for "extrusion multiplier" for the linear advance pattern generator if you are checking your extrusion multiplier after you calibrate linear advance? I never know which one to do first. Also, do you measure the diameter of your filament or did I miss that in the video?
Wow all those tools seem really neat. Will have to see how many of them cope with Sailfish instead of Marlin, since I haven't re-animated my MakerBot, only updated the firmware with some additional patches...
Ditch Makerbot crap. Either dump the Makerbot Board and convert it into a modern Marlin board, or just ditch the Makerbot altogether. They are traitors to the F/OSS community and 3D printing in general.
@@ThantiK I understand the traitor bit. I got it for free and fixed it. (It's my only printer) I contributed to the open source firmware. I maintain a config to use it with Prusa Slicer. Heck I even started porting Marlin to it. It's hard to justify gutting a working printer I use regularly because it's "insufficiently pure" - I'm inherently a fixer and scavenger. But if you have a spare board and pair of hot ends (because it uses a thermocouple instead of thermistor for hot end temp), please do let me know so I can upgrade it 😁
It isn't as easy as I wish it was. There isn't an option to just add a blank profile currently. What I did was take the CR-10 S4 profile that was already in SoftFever and modified it to match the Neptune 3 Max. Which was really replacing every single thing about it from the Start/End G-Code to the Dimensions.
I don't care for them honestly. The FlowRate test is 100% infill which is a flawed method unfortunately. Their Retraction test has given me really oddly inconsistent results. I use SuperSlicer from time to time but SoftFever Bambu Studio has largely replaced the few times I would use it.
@@MandicReally So you're not using Slicer, you're using Slicer with a skin instead. Weird, but okay. Bambu Studio is based off of the same codebase that SuperSlicer, PrusaSlicer, Slic3r all are...
@@ThantiK I’m sorry I don’t really see the point of this comment. Calibration tests are additions individually in SuperSlicer & SoftFever Bambu Studio. They have little to do with each other or PrusaSlicer / Slic3r. Each slicer has its won features independent of each other (aside from SoftFever BS which has all that BS does plus more). Try each one and you’ll find while largely the same, they all have differences.
Haven’t looked into it yet cause I review machines as they come. It isn’t an exotic board but I haven’t seen if it has a supported processor or not. So, possibly?
@@MandicReally yeah i heard the processor is a new finicky one, so im on the fence on getting this printer, i use mainsail for my printer and it would be awesome to add this one to it
Great video. But my immediate reaction was to consider how little of a 1KG reel would be left to print things after all those tests have been performed.
It is just a fact of printing unfortunately. If you are printing things where that amount of filament will be the deciding factor between a print completing or not, you should really have a spare spool anyway. Any minor failure could use up just as much material if not more. I didn't weight the prints but it really does not use much filament, and once you dial it in you likely won't have to do it again unless something changes in the materials properties later.
Interesting. I have a couple of comments. 1) Your calibration (at least for this machine) doesn't include the axes steps/mm. I guess you're not looking for absolute precision on this big machine. For smaller machines where you want accurately sized prints for things like fit and hole sizes this would be beneficial. 2) Regarding your flow calibration. Large areas of solid infill, as you might have on top and bottom layers, shows the effect of over-extrusion. Sparse infill can hide the effect of over-extrusion to some extent. Small prints used to calibrate flow actually benefit from being printed with all solid infill on all layers. Any over-extrusion is cumulative and you can assess it from the quality of the top layer.
1st Layer issues can translate to top layers with 100% infill. So a poorly dialed in z-offset may lead to extra squish that appears to be over-extrusion when printing 100% infill. I've tried both ways and found the Sparse Infill superior for my purposes. As for Axes tuning, I've found those values to be generally far more accurate out of the box. It isn't something I generally tune as I've not run into enough instances where it wasn't accurate. Extrusion is NEVER accurate in my experience. Weird how it is but yea.
Would you rather have poor results on prints wasting filament, or 200g of filament spent on tuning it in so you can just print nicely over and over? You only have to do it once (as long as a quality filament brand doesn’t change their mixtures). And honestly 200g was only how much I used since I had a .8mm nozzle and larger prints. It’s less than that with a .4mm nozzle.
14:25 - That is what we are tuning with this entire chapter of the video. "Retraction" is a shortened term for Retraction Distance. Speed is another animal that I honestly rarely find a need to adjust much. Most extruders I run have recommended values for Retraction / De-Retraction Speeds, thus why I didn't go into it.
