Getting a new plane working it always exciting, and we couldn't wait to get our new smoothing planes by Tachibana singing. Here Mitch runs through the steps. Check out our Tachibana Kanna at japanesetools....
Hello passing by to leave my thumbs up and strengthen I do not speak English but I will always be together giving that mutual strength we will reach the finish line together because in life we need a friend that God bless you wish success.
Many mistakenly assume a stone remains e.g. 3k grit after flattening with a 400 grit flattening plate, but what actually happens is the stone initially adopts a 400 grit finish until the surface once again breaks down to it's original, finer form. This can slow the whetting process, due to the regression to much lower grit surfacing, but to help things along, leave the slurry in place as this continues to break down/become more refined, helping the whetting process, but always wash your blade/plane iron as you progress from stone to stone. This helps prevent contaminating finer grit stones with coarser grits. Nagura stone is ideal for flattening your higher grit stones, as it tends to have grit size circa 3k-6k
I am not sure whether you still read comments on a video 3 years old but if so, when you dressed the back of the block could that not be done by removing the blade and chip breaker and then flattening the whole back using the sandpaper rather than the 2 part process shown?
Hi, thanks a lot for this video. I am still struggling by making the back of the blade flat. I ended up with the back flat but creating a slight « step » with the rest of the back. how do you tackle this issue? thx!
Hi Guillame, yep, had that before. To avoid making a step on a new blade, as I lap the back I move the blade a bit further in and a bit further out on the plate (say a variance of 10mm, 5mm either side of where I want my flat ura to finish). This is usually enough to avoid the step. However, if you already have a bit of a step I think it is probably more trouble than it is worth to try and get it out, I'd roll with it :-) As long as your blade is flat on the back and bedding nicely, and your chip-breaker is mating properly, you should be able to get some good results. Let us know how you go - always happy to exchange a few emails if it needs more troubleshooting!
This seems awfully complicated, is there any benefit in that construction method? A simple wedge between the pin and the two irons would make it so much easier to set up as it wouldnt need a perfect fit in the body that might suffer from changes in humidity. I assume what gives japanese planes their good performance compared to european planes is the thick iron and not how its bedded in the body.
for hardwoods it should be extremely fine tuned, otherwise probably difficulty. probably better to use a 寸八 or 寸六 kanna with tiny mouth for extra stability
beautiful tools, ridiculous prices. how can you possibly justify 300 dollars plus for a small wood plane that needs setup and accessories? dear everyone watching this: go to flea markets etc and buy old wood planes and fix them up, they are super beautiful and work great with a bit of effort and you only need to spend like 50 bucks on everything
Thanks for the video you just saved me buying one today! I didn’t realise the plane wasn’t ready to go when bought and you needed all of the accessories to get the plane to work 🤦♂️