I'm really impressed that small 1.3L 13b, 2.0L 20b, 2.6L 26b. Can sound like a much larger displacement Big block V-8 but has the ability to Rev to 6000rpm+ where large V-8's lose this capability capability at anything over 7000rpm in most cases. I would like to put a turbo 13b into projects. However I don't know where to find rotary engine swap parts, or what transmissions can be used with them.
Depends on what u want to do, a 13b can rev up to 11,000 rpm and still make crazy power. However at that RPM u have to be careful on gearbox internals as the high rpm can destroy bearings and other parts
Tbh since it's more of a L*2 of displacement. That is because each power stroke happens at 360 degrees compared to 720 degrees in a piston engine. You have two times the power strokes per 720 degrees.
Great video. I'm jealous that we don't have cars like this in Europe or support for them (mechanics, experts...). We usually tune BMW/mercedes, VW (Golf, Passat)/ Opel and those cars are quite boring. I wish there was some safe import option...
gotta thank you for putting this information out there. Just a simple change to my ignition timing at idle made the brap much more pronouced. sounds incredible. I am still trying to figure out how to get flames on decel, any advice on that one? Just a NA 13b im dicking around with
just add more fuel in decel part of your map if it still dont work drill a small hole in the exhaust like just a pin hole that will get your big flames and pops in decel
Any idea on how to do this with versatuner? They run lamda and engine load tables, and ignition tables are wwaaay different as it is retuning of the stock ecu. I have a bridgeport on a 13b msp. I get subtle braps but mostly gets stuck in that cavitation state.
Try leaning out your fuel mixture at idle this will stop the cavitation state but it will also increase your exhaust gas temperatures so u will need to just keep and eye on it. If you don’t have an EGT sensor play with the idle at night after running the engine for 10 mins or so turn the lights off and see if your exhaust is glowing anywhere if it is add a little bit more fuel in. The other way is to use a zero demand table but I don’t think u can do this on the stock ecu. Try advancing the timing to around 17deg at idle then lean out your fuel. After u add timing your idle will increase so u will need to correct that also. Sweet spot is around that 1650 to 1700 rpm. Hope that helps :)
It does. This is my first dive into tuning with fuel injection, and it's a rotary to boot. I have either added or retarded timing (versertuner just has numbers. I pur in 40 so whatever that is) in the leat timing and got stronger braps. The tables are all based on load vs rpm. Just got to find what load is idle and lean it. Most around light load (and 0 load but i dont think that is idle) is around .98 lamda. .92 is about 13.8 afr? So there should be plenty of room to lean it a bit without worry of too lean. I will keep playing. But thanks for the help as it has given me a new direction to search.
@@noname-sd5dt no problem, 13.8 is starting to get lean is your motor running high comp rotors ? U will notice the exhaust will start to glow red hot at idle if you lean it out to much also with the timing grab yourself a timing gun and work out how much timing your actually adding u don’t want to be causing detonation events not to much of a worry at idle but left unchecked it can cause other issues. U want to be around 17deg before TDC at idle u could push it a little more but I would not go to far past 17. My biggest point I could make to help you is “don’t guess anything!” Work out your timing and keep a close eye on your exhaust temps remember with the NSP engines the exhaust goes right past the corner seals so dumping heaps of heat into the exhaust can cause the springs on your corner seals to soften and u will lose compression. So don’t guess, check and recheck Turn the lights out after 15mins at idle see if you see anything glowing.
@@mechanicalwarriors can you explain how its done right? I just ordered a completely new 13b renesis and want to do some major modifications on my rx8. I got told the brap wont be so powerful on the renesis compared to the rew, but even a slight brap would make me happy. Tho emissions will be a big problem as austrian law makes any modification that affects emissions in a negative way illegal. Btw my rx8 is exactly the same color as yours it seems. Thats miami blue right?
has it been ported ? It’s not just a map u need to have a port job done in order to get the engine to pulse but when u have a DBW system it don’t pulse very well so changing some timing tables helps the pluses magnify. If u get what I mean
@@raywaltdecuba5699 well I love big Ports I never go small but that’s just me with a NSP engine your kinda limited to what u can do. I have seen the just doing a hybrid setup makes a wicked idle but u always going to be limited to around the 350hp mark with that block
My goal is around 300hp max with the engine, so 350 with hybrid setup is very interesting. Keeping the engine low boost for reliability purposes. @@mechanicalwarriors
Good content how about injection angle between fc and fd do the are similar numbers? I'm working on a fc 6 port Turbo with a older platinum Haltech sprint re
They're called PORTS bro NOT VALVES. Intake Port + Exaust Port. Anything found in piston engines Valves, Camshaft, Pistons, Crank etc don't belong in the same conversation as a RE.
Don’t get caught up in semantics. I found this to be good material for tuning rotaries. It’s easier to look past terminology than start a pointless argument.
Dude has no clue what he is talking about.dont follow this guy's advice. The "stall saver" is in fact the idle control valve on the 13brew engine. The brap is the effect of high overlap port timing and can be tuned out with timing but will result in very low engine vacuum. Bridge port engines will idle happily at 1400 to 1600 rpm with semi p engines 1800 to 2000 depending on exhaust port timing. Please do not set your idle corrections into the base map. There is a table for idle ignition correction with respect to target idle delta. With decel cut off. Run higher ignition timing in the decel range please, bo one wants to hear the crap that happens when you dont.
This engine is actually running a DBW system so there is no idle control valve and the stall saver is a function within the open loop idle control system and uses the DBW system to make corrections for stalling. But this has nothing to do with making your engine brap…. And to get perfect and consistent braps it’s not just port timing it’s also in the ignition timing and the best way is to use a zero demand table to achieve the timing corrections when in idle. Perhaps I would encourage you to finish the video you might learn your comment is not relevant to the content…
@mechanicalwarriors finished the video and tune more of these a month than you ever do. I know the garbage rx8 uses dbw, you said in the video that the solenoid on an rew manifold is a stall saver or some such nonsense. What causes the loping idle is port overlap. 0 demand timing is not the best way to correct timing for target delta. Look at your ign corr table. BTW there are no valves in a rotary engine.
@@7sins979 mate u have no idea what your on about…. 1st of all I said the idle control solenoid can be used as a stall saver with the Haltech system. Second of all this is not an RX8 engine it is a REW bridge port 13b with a g35 on it completely built and assembled by myself. And lastly if u took half a second to understand what the topic of the video is about I am explaining how to get consistent braps not tune them out… and the zero demand table I am referring to is an ignition zero demand table. You have no idea what your on about and this is not my 1st rodeo.
@mechanicalwarriors could have fooled me with your lack of understanding how any of this works. The iac is not some trivial "stall saver" it is what should be used to control idle. Unless you are dbw but the stock rew is not dbw thus my point. I understand what the topic of the video is, you don't understand the mechanics of the idle circuit and why the idle lopes. Nobody should follow your advice because it is shit. I know more than you do about tuning these engines and it is obvious since you don't even know how idle timing works or how to set it up. 0 demand is worthless when you know how to set a car up properly. Bu5 my main point in this is not to convince you that you're wrong it is to hope that no one else follows your ahit advice. If I had a dollar for every car I had to return from people like you that should tune up a lawn mower I would be a lot richer and a lot less irritated.
