Great job as usual. It’s a pleasurable experience to rehab a bike which was certainly destined for the scrapyard. You’re recycling it. 👍 I hope you didn’t pay much for it tho.
Awesome video Cody!!! I recently adjusted the valve-lash out of my son's 2018 SSR 70 dirtbike,so I quickly became an expert on "feel" of the feeler-gauges!!! I actually did the very same thing You did in this video,by FIRST measuring the needed slack on a micrometer and running my feeler-gauge through it,so I could easily get the feel of how it SHOULD feel!!! Thanks for all your tips!!! : >)
Dude i really appreciate it! I noticed that when you fired it up at the end, it sounded like it dipped in power, just for a second, as if it didn't fire. But then it disappeared. I have the same issue on my Honda Transalp. Would you say it is carb related or is it some ignition issue. This thing is driving me crazy 🤣
Outstanding video on the xr100! I need to do my timing chain as well I believe. Had a slight chatter when at running temperature. Do you have a link for the flywheel puller ? I want one of them for that price
hey cody, love your channel. Primarily because of your breakdown of the Honda Magna carb build. I have a 3rd gen magna and i absolutely love it. However... just a few weeks ago i was riding and out of the blue it started making an of clicking/clanking sound. My thoughts are that its probably the timing chain, however the tensioners were replaced recently. could it have sdnapped or jumped a tooth?? how can i troubleshoot/diagnose? thanks
Thanks for making this video dude. I just bought a Honda crf 100 (2018), the guy I bought it off said he did the cam and valve adjustment and the bike sounds okay at idle, but sounds just like this engine when you’re riding at higher rpms. Do you know what’s causing this? Thanks in advance
Hey man was looking at your videos,awesomes btw and I was hoping you can help me with my 1985 Honda trx 125 right now have smoke leak and i was planning on changing the piston rings but I can’t find the right size you know any website for those parts thanks
The cam journal in the cyl head is likely worn out. The cam rides directly on the head and when the motor is run low on oil the bearing surface is destroyed…… #2- you should run the cam chain very slightly loose. When you rock the flywheel back and forth there should be a tiny bit of slack in the chain. If you run the chain tight the cam is forced downward into the bearing surface of the cyl head and there is no clearance for oil. The cam journals are lubricated by splash hence the need for the slightly loose cam chain adjustment. ………. #3 When adjusting the valves you can see the cam lobes just under the rockers. Simply turn the flywheel until the lobe is directly away from the rocker pad ( in other words on the heel of the cam lobe) and then adj that valve……..#4- If you are going to work on many of the XR 80 & 100 then you need to make an aluminum plate that covers the area of the magneto housing that is almost always busted from the chain jumping off. You use shoe polish on the plate as a release agent. Then you can use JB Weld or Devcon to build up the busted gasket surface of the case. You will have to lay the bike or motor if out down on its left side so the epoxy will flow out to you plate. You often have to do 2 or more applications of the epoxy to fully repair the gasket surface. A new mag cover completes the repair. Use high quality silicone sealant.
#5- When the smaller Honda’s are run with a dirty or dry filter the needle and needle jet wear because of tight tolerances . The symptoms will include not needing the choke when cold , rich running at low engine speeds, not responding to air screw and fouling a new plug in short order. In really bad cases a new plug won’t last 5 minutes. The parts are called “ needle jet set” iirc ( it’s been 25 years 😳).
1# could totally be the case for this motor or any single cam with the design as you described. #2 If you see the video I backed off the tension up top so there is a very slight looseness to the cam chain. Yes you are correct that it is needed. #3 Finding the heel of the cam lobe is ideal for valve adjustments. When you are working with four valve v-twins/v-fours or flat six motors you don’t always get that luxury. And for this Clapped out XR100r that will be used to terrorize a farm till it quits. TDCC will be just fine. You will find the clearance still within spec on either orientation for this motor. #4 and #5 great advice for anyone who wants to do that. Laying it in its side would be the best location for the bike to build up what’s needed. I ain’t touching it. Owner does t want to dump money into it. #5 correct! Thanks for the feedback!
@@TheMotorcycleMD I wasn't intending to correct you or criticize you. Just putting my experience out there for the less experienced. Now, here is a trick question. Where is the oil filter on these 80 and 100cc motors ?
@@truthboomertruthbomber5125 I do appreciate the textual break down that that you did of some pointers I may have not explained well. 👌🏻 Lol great question. I believe these are CONVENIENTLY placed under the right clutch cover lower front. It’s a square rubber sided screen/mesh. Lol
@@TheMotorcycleMD There is a centrifugal filter under the right hand main bearing. If the cam journal on the head is severely worn this filter cavity will be filled with aluminum powder. If you run parts washer fluid through the crank for very long this debris will start to come loose and flow into the rod bearing causing it to be hard to turn . Then you remove the rh main bearing with a clamshell puller and a press. Drill a small hole in the stamped cover plate and screw a small sheetmetal screw into the hole to lift the cover plate off. Yes you will need a new cover plate and it's o-ring. You can see this cover plate on the microfiche. This info was supposed to be #6 but as I was ready to hit reply I brushed my finger tip against my Ipad screen and poof, a couple of minutes of typing lost forever
I just done a top end rebuild on one of these if you hit It with a tiny bit of start fluid it will fire right up and run great but it will not even attempt to fire up without start fluid where do I look for the problem
..............................particularly when they fit fuel filters backwards like that one. -5, chain clip backwards 😁 0.002" intake, 0.003" exhaust, been the same since 1960's Personally, I prefer go-no go so 0.002" goes in (intake) but 0.003" doesn't. It isn't 'by the book' but the extra ~0.0005" has never caused any problems or excess wear. You don't have a 'clock winding key to fit adjuster?
