What it takes to break this baler in for proper operation! In this episode Charles goes over the ins and outs of the Massey Ferguson 1734 round baler and shows tricks and tips for smooth operation.
Excellent presentation! I took the entire twine cutter/anvil out of my (new to me last week!) Hesston 530 baler (manual tie) since it wouldn't cut the twine and found that the knife was installed backwards (beveled edge should be toward the front of the baler), the knife wasn't hitting the anvil squarely and the anvil had a worn groove in it where the knife had been hitting. The twine arm was also half bent/broken due to inadequate construction (in my opinion). The twine arm hits the twine cutter pull rod every time you let the rope loose to return the twine arm to home position which is supposed to cut the twine, and that continuous slamming eventually broke the twine arm. The former owner had a small dab of weld on there (quick fix) which didn't last. The best fix was to reinforce the twine arm with two pieces of small angle iron, which required that the twine arm be taken out of the baler. I also ground the surface of the anvil completely flat, sharpened the twine cutter knife and adjusted the twine cutter knife so that perfect contact is made between the knife and the anvil along the entire length of the knife. I'm using the orange poly twine and these repairs/adjustments fixed the twine cutting problem. I'm still learning so maybe by the end of this year's haying season I'll be able to make a decent bale! Thanks for posting this!
I've got the same baler and it's set up just like yours but the orange 20000 twin works better and get you a V rake and adjust it same width as your baler and it will make the shoulder of the bale stronger and you can put more twin on shoulder great video keep on farming
