Simple, intelligent and directly address the issue with clarity and logic, thank you for not wasting the first 4 minutes of our lives on explaining what a buffer & spring is
I've watched so many videos... and for once this one explained exactly what's happening, with no bullshit, straight to the facts and the video was relatively short. Great job boys! Thank you
Being a dissy guy, I would say if you're under gassed then be sure you're running a carbine weight buffer, not an h1, h2, h3, ECT. When you start running lighter race gun parts, then start expecting race gun like reliability. It's great for 3 gun, not so great for anything serious. A lot of light weight carrier, buffer, and spring options on the market are designed specifically to be run with adjustable gas blocks. Basically, tuning required. It also should be said that some carriers made out of certain materials have a significantly shorter life span and heavily milled carriers might be more prone to failure. All not a big deal on a race gun, but huge when some ones life might be on the line. There are other factors to address such as gas port size and dwell time as well. On a home build, these can get you in trouble some times. Most of the time you'll be fine, but some times not so much. You might run into this being more of an issue if you're having a barrel cut down, but some times manufacturers still get it wrong. For example, DD over sizes their gas ports on their Mk18 uppers. It's certainly better than being under gassed though. If you ran weak .223 ammo on a Mk18 upper built to Crane specs you might see some failures due to under gassing. There is a lot to this stuff.
@@ronbow1947 Having just got done with a TON of training and having been putting a lot of time in lately, I'd honestly say working on your technique is the most important thing. Don't rely on technology. I actually went to shooting my harder to shoot guns to really drill in recoil control. I thought I was good and there wasn't much room for improvement, but man was I wrong and I cant speak for you any one else, but I'm sure a lot of people also have room to grow as well. After you get that down, then that's when you really start to see a difference running muzzle brakes and messing with gas systems. A brake on a properly gassed gun will take you a long way without having to get crazy with the the gas system though. In the end it will present a hell of a lot less potential headaches.
I think there may be more to ejection pattern than this... like maybe extractor and or ejector strength/tension? I was experimenting with buffers the other day and had what I would consider an odd result. I was shooting a BCM 14.5 w/ BCM BCG, and carbine buffer tube/buffer spring/buffer. Using several different load of ammo, the brass essentially fell out of the at about 1:00, only ejecting maybe 1-2 feet away. Very uniform. Bolt lock back no problem. Then I tried a H1, H2, and H3 buffer. In all cases the brass went into essentially the same pile, about 4:30, and maybe 8-10 feet back. Bolt lock back no problem. Then I tried a lower with a longer BCM MK2 buffer tube ("A5"). T0 buffer, similar result to carbine buffer. T1, T2, T3 buffer, essentially the same result as H1, H2, and H3. In all cases bolt lock back no problem and brass landing in the same place. I was happy to see the broad range over which the gun would operate, but I expected see some kind of difference between those buffer weights. When I didn't, I questioned why that might be. Any ideas?
I swap 1 thing at a time if im unsure of the problem and put the old part back if not then problem and move to the next most likely suspect. Slow and steady wins the race. And if i may its not as hard on the pocket that way.
Hey, boys, Karl here in Denver. I've been working on a solution to my Daniel Defense with a JP captured recoil spring system that won't lock open on an empty magazine. Adding tungsten weights was the recommendation. I will be testing on Saturday. Your spent brass/clock is very useful. Thank you for the clear explanation. Karl
Thanks, guys for a professional mature presentation, absent the immature macho attitude of spewing profanity like so many other trainers think "real men" are supposed to do, but obviously they're clueless and insecure little boys.
Love how near the end you joke about being screwed if it's under gassed lol. Threw me off for a second because the video was serious and then you pop that joke. Awesome content and video I subbed and liked. Your good bro really cool..
I've been looking for 155gr 556 or 223 ammo for 4 years now and haven't had any luck....... Kit's buddy's face looked like Napoleon Dynamite when he said it. Hilarious
Their advice for an under gassed gun can work but if you want to keep using the same parts it's best to open the gas port. If that's too difficult, you can try using a lighter buffer.
Personally I think it's too expensive for what it is. Strike Industries flat wire spring is the better option in my opinion in both cost as well as function although I will admit I haven't used a Super 42. SI flat Spring claims to do everything the super 42 does but at 1/3rd the cost and it has a far longer service life of 1million cycles vs the super 42 of double the life of a standard spring which is vague but from my research is about 10k rounds so 20K for the super 42. But to each their own, if you can afford it and it's what you want I say get it. Being pleased with your tools is always a great feeling.
Alright! Very good! I built an AR-15 chambered in 6.5 Grendel, and have no idea if I'm using the correct buffer/spring combination. It's a rifle-length barrel and gas-system, but has an adjustable, carbine-type butt-stock; therefore a carbine-rated spring and buffer. I've been wondering if I should purchase a heavier one. This video will at least give me a great starting spot to make that determination. Thanks, KB!
have been wondering this for a while, but since theres so many billet uppers and aftermarket changes to the traditional m4 upper and brass deflector if ejection pattern still determines gassing. I have an aero upper without a forward assist, and really no change in spring strength or buffer weight changes the ejection pattern, like I can with my BCM upper
Good point, and I should probably have addressed this... As you move away from, for lack of a better word, "Spec" uppers, this will become less reliable. Good catch man.
“Old guy-Newbie” here...is there any downside to an adjustable gas block? (I’m just getting ready to buy or build) And secondly when you did your buffer/spring change in the video, is there a rule of thumb to keep the changes proportionate? Example...it doesn’t sound like you would just change the spring, or just change the buffer. I’m guessing that only changing one of them might have another undesirable affect and not solve the problem. What is the wisdom inside the buffer/spring change? Thanks for a very professional video.
Was just wondering on what grain ammo you used, 55 grain American eagle? BTW love the channel good job on the content especially the music. Keep up the good work!
Literally just watched a video this morning on an adjustable gas block(superlative arms) and the most impressive thing to me was when the user adjusted the gas to be a little more restricted it actually increased his fps by 70+ fps out of a 16" barrel!
Newbie question but my AR is overgassed so I got a Springco Blue spring and a PWS H2 buffer. It shoots much better now. Do I still need an adjustable gas block to cut down on internal wear and tear of parts?
So I have a 16" Mid length gas system on my AR and I guess it ejects in the 3-3:10-3:15 position. I changed the buffer weight from the standard carbine buffer that came with my lpk to an H2 but I didn't change the spring. I still have the same spring that came with the original buffer and I'm still having a 3:00ish ejection pattern. I'm guessing I need to change the spring?
*STAINLESS FLATWIRE SPRING by David TUBB or others ... might be an option... SOME OF US run the TUBB AR-10 FLATWIRE STAINLESS BUFFER springs and H2 or H3 BUFFER in CAR-15 16" carbine gas ... with good results.*
Or buy a new barrel with the gas port size you want. From Sprinco they have mentioned that typically going with a heavier spring and lighter buffer offers less felt recoil/sight displacement than going with a heavier buffer with a lighter spring. It seems like a lot of people just slap a heavier buffer in their rifle when maybe going to sprinco blue or red and keeping the same buffer might perform better.
Thanks! Mine is over gassed and was leaving rip marks on the casings along with other feeding issues. It broke the extractor claw off. So now that I know what’s wrong I need to know if a heavy buffer will work in my all commercial spec carbine. I found a stoner h1 cheap but it’s labeled as mil spec. I know tubes are different sizes but Is there a difference in the buffers and springs? I wanted to know if the buffer would fit and if the Wolff xtra power spring would fit. Mine is 16” all commercial spec,A2 sight,carbine gas system,commercial bolt carrier,original was fixed stock and changed to adjustable Tapco which is lighter standard buffers. I can’t remember if I fired it before it was changed it’s been so long ago so I’m not sure if that caused the issue or not. Would a h1 be enough?
so if its undergassed will a lighter spring or lighter buffer help? My trigger doesn't reset on .223rem, 18in rifle gas tube, 223wylde a chamber. it cycles but I'm left with a dead trigger after each round and have to switch back to safe, then to fire again. dont say "just use 556".
I think you just have to be honest with yourself in the application of the weapon. Do you shoot cheap steel cased ammo all the time? Do you clean your weapon regularly? Are you using this to put holes in paper at 25 yards...? Good points though.
Tune your rifle with the lowest power stuff YOU plan on using (Federal Tactical Rifle .223 55-gr. in my case), then your game time ammo like XM193 will run just fine. Gun manufactures build their guns for everyone not know what crap ammo they may throw in there, so they over gas and hope for the best. if you don't shoot crap ammo, turning down the gas a bit is a non issue.
You still didn't fix the high gas issue, just mitigated the recoil. What's this going to do if you now run it suppressed? Swap springs? I would get an adjustable gas block. Also 155gr rounds? Did you mean 55gr?
Is this pattern only relevant coming straight from the ejection port? Mine are hitting off the deflector then ending up in that 1:30-2 zone Does the 'clock' method take into account the deflector?
I'm curious how a rifle buffer tube would work against the adjustable carbine buffer tube already on his barrel. If he wanted to switch to a DoubleStar ACE 9.9" stock for example how would that work? Could he just get a rifle spring and use the same carbine buffer or what?
This is the way it works for 223 AR-15’s, but my experience with AR-10’s was the opposite. When I was overgassed my rounds would fling back to 4-5 o’clock, and undergassed we’d be 1-2 o’clock. I don’t know if that’s like a documented thing, but that’s how my AR-10 is and took me forever to figure out
Ivan, does barrel length have any bearing on an AR's inherent tendency to be over/under gassed? For instance, with a 7.5" barrel AR pistol, is your 3-4 o'clock ejection ideal still hold true?
Typically your shorter barreled rifles will be overgassed, but with respect to the 3-4, it should hold true. That ejection window is basically indicative of the bolt carrier speed, ie. gas system.
If you are gunna run a AR pistol with that short of a barrel, take my advice and go right for the adjustable gas block, save yourself some head ache. I run a H3 buffer and M16 BCG in mine and still had to turn the gas down. runs butter smooth now and is reliable which some say is impossible in a 7.5" barrel.
My gas key became loose so I took it to the shop and had them set it, stake it and clean it. RUNS like a champ ,3 very fast mag dumps ,but not as smoothly, And now my 2012 stag 5.56 upper is ejecting at 2 o'clock, when before the gas key came loose ,it was always making perfect piles of brass at 3:00 shooting just as fast ?????. because it's super clean now?????. Do you think there's more gas getting through? And that's the problem. And now I should tune it???? or just break it in??? . OH YA ,NEW GAS KEY pin ....SQUARE TOP PIN??? Could that be Letting it RUNNING MORE SMOOTHLY , "NOT DRAGGING" OPERATIONALLY? Thanks for sharing 🍸CAM PIN...NEW CAM PIN...LOL 3 HOURS LATER I REMEMBERED 😂😂😂😂
I'd guess that 80-90% of mid length and shorter gas system guns are overgassed by design. It's done most likely for reliability with all the cheap steel cased ammo out there.
I just built my fist AR and it won’t feed. It doesn’t seem to catch the back of the cartridge. Or if it does, it doesn’t have enough energy to push it in to the barrel. Often, it just slams shut with no bullet at all. I have a superlative arma gas block and a Geissele 42 buffer spring. Also a 12.5 carbine length barrel. Lantac BCG. What do you think is wrong? I’m totally lost.
Kit Badger thanks! I went through many parts and eventually it settled on the Geissele 42 h1 buffer and spring. It was too heavy. My gun would Tun other h1 buffer spring/weights but not Geissele.
It was solid 4 o'clock (despite the camera angle) which is the sweet spot for the shooter. You can push it closer to 3 if you're really concerned about reliability though.
You can actually have a rifle that is under or overgassed and still have it lock back on a empty magazine. This is just how to determine, and proceed on fixing it, if the rifle isn't optimum.
