This was exactly the video I needed to see. I was ready to send my new cam back because it didn't have a brown wire. Thank you for a no nonsense video on how to replace the cam on a 69 tilt wheel.
This is a very informative video that goes into detail to explain the repair of many different makes and models of cars for the turn signal canceling mechanism.
I have indelible memories doing this to my 77 F350. Big detail differences between auto and standard transmission. Std has less room. Alternative is to feed each wire down the column. Need to have the special tool to separate wire at nylon block. That way,no solder. Each approach has its merits. Way to go, WCC! Great little gem of a video! With patience and persistence the elephant deflowered the mosquito. That is about as much room is here. Good luck. Take your time and you should do fine. PGM.
Nice video. I'll need to remember that kit is available when my switch eventually breaks. Note that you never want to count on solder holding a connection together. You may want to crimp an uninsulated short ferrule on the wires and then heat it with a hot enough iron to melt the solder into the joint. You may also want to flux the wires and the ferrule before crimping to help the solder flow into the joint.
We are working on one that explains the entire 67 sequential system in stock form. If you're thinking about converting your original system to solid-state, that's pretty straightforward as the "black box" plugs right in to your stock harness.
I have the same situation as Clorox Bleach with a new complete turn signal switch. I need to adjust one of the wires under the cam to get my left brake light to work. Leary about breaking cam getting clip off the rivet. Thanks.
Don mentioned that the clip that holds the cancel cam for a non-tilt column will probably break when removed. I imagine you probably stock a replacement. If so, what would it be called? I can't seem to find it.
+Topher7527 We don't sell those clips individually, but the cancelling cam repair kit does come with two (only one is needed). It's the round metal clip with relief cuts around the inside. See here: www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/c7sz-13318-b-repro.html Also if you buy a complete new turn signal switch, it comes installed already. We do have a similar clip / retainer, for the AC / heater box shafts, but it's a little too big: www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/14607-Push-on-Retainer-A-C-Box-Shafts-New-1967-1973-Mercury-Cougar-1967-1973-Ford-Mustang.html
I have a 2001 ford explorer V8 and left turn signal will not go off .I replaced the bulb and that was not what was wrong .Last time it kept blinking I replaced the bulb and it worked fine for over 2 years .
Butting two wires together and soldering them is never recommended. You should always make a mechanical connection by twisting the wires together. That type of connection can easily crack and fail.
I thought same. I watched the video just to see how he'd make the connections.. thought maybe he'd stick them together/kind of interleaving the wires, but that'd be tough. The joint on blue wires looked kind of cold... the green looked good, but I know what you mean - especially on a part that's going to be snapping/impacting every time it's used and releases. Good video though... cool little butane solder iron.
The cable you mentioned for the thunderbird, specifically the brown wire. What would it actually be doing? Asking because I have a 68 tbird that has the same set up but not sure if a replacement part without three cables would affect anything.
I spent the bucks and bought a Ford replacement for the complete unit even though the one on the car wasn’t broken and even after replacement it still doesn’t cancel all the time. Any ideas?
Good eye! You are correct. Believe it or not, a 67-68 decklid will fit on a 69-70, and vice-versa. So this car apparently has a 68 trunk lid on it for some reason.
That's funny, a couple months ago I was wondering if it was possible to add the key cover on my '69 but I realized the trunk lacks the holes on the inside to let me install one. Now all I have to do is get a new deck lid, so my $60 lock cover thought is now a $200 project plus the cost of painting the deck!
I have a completely different vehicle but will be doing something similar soon. My question is this... If the turn signal works fine but just wont stay (I have to hold it to turn right)- do I need to replace the whole turn signal switch or can I just replace the turn signal cam and save a little money? Thanks in advance!!
And if i'm way off here- don't laugh at me. ha. I didn't grow up around cars at all. Just work on my own out of necessity because I can't afford to have it in the shop over every silly little thing. =)
It might just be the cam... if one of those little plastic arms has broken off, that could prevent the lever from staying put. If you can remove the steering wheel and check it out, you should be able to see what the problem is for sure.
My left turn signal stays on unless I remove the tune signal stock. The little spring the helps push the canceling cam back in place is broken. Do you all sell that piece?
So only the lower ear was broken off, does that mean the turn signal would cancel itself on right turns only? Left turns it would not? Neither my left or right turns cancel the arm is why I ask
What about a fixed steering wheel. I have a 1968 Mustang and the cam doesn’t have a screw to remove it. Not sure but it looks like it has a rivet, how would I remove it then?
It's not a rivet but an extension of shaft turn signal arm is connected to. I ended up drilling top of it to get washer off then drilled a hole in my drill press and tapped it for a 4-40 screw. Now I can take apart easily when I need to.
I have a -73 Cougar with sequential turn signals. The hazard lights works, but not when i'm using the turn signal lever. Du You have a tip for me about what might be wrong?
The hazards aren't supposed to work when you have the turn signal on at the same time. What happens, at least on the early cars, is that both turn signals will sequence at the same time. If you're having other issues, you might check out this ongoing thread and / or contact some of the members there, as there are some sequential gurus: classiccougarcommunity.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2518
Thank You for Your answer. I apologize for my bad explanation. I'm Norwegian You know:-) I didn't mean at the same time. It's only the turn signal I mean. When I turn on the lever, nothing happens. I've measured 12V in to the relay (above the glove compartment), but it won't "click". Can it be the relay thats the problem? Thank You in advance:-) I will check out the link You sent me. Thanks:-) Maybe the guy in the other instruction video, that changed from the old sequential system, to the new plasma LED system know what may be the problem..?
Oh ok! It might be the relay, or the turn signal switch. The best person to ask would be Vic Yarberry, he's an expert on these things. Here's a page he made about troubleshooting the 69-73 system: www.thuntek.net/cougars_unlimited/69seqts.htm
