Turning a 3D Printed THE THING Bust into Concrete 

Thanks I appreciate it 🤘🤘

MPC3000• this was amazing thanks for posting

Haha we makers have great patience sometimes if a 3d print isn't a week-long I'm disappointed 😂😂

thanks for the tip great stuff

Thank you I really appreciate it I find it hard to talk on camera because I'm basically talking to my self and it doesn't feel right to me so that's why I don't talk too much nonsense cheers 👍👍👍

I think I would agree on that cheers

Mildly NSFW commercial: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gxbS7t9oKNY.html

I did buy one of them vibrating exercise machines that you stand on and I was going to use that but it didn't work way to powerful it just bounced the model around going to look for something smaller like you said cheers

@@FilamentForge The type in Luke's commercial above was what I had in mind. Seal it in a zip-loc bag to protect it from the concrete. Good luck. Great vid BTW.

@@luke_fabis I can't begin to tell you the uproar I created in our household when I was a tot and found my sister's!

@@jayphilbin2871 hahaha just watched it I might need two 😲

great idea cheers

Probably could have added some terra cotta pigment to your concrete mix as well and added abit of longevity to the bust

sound good i will give it a try next time cheers

Thank you for the kind words

The only thing I don't like is the smell

👍👍👍

Thank you

That would be cool!

I've always wanted to do concrete casting there are loads of 3d prints that would look awesome in concrete the next few builds are all going to be concrete cast can't wait 👍👍👍

Thanks for the info!

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Yes that's what I did I just forgot to mention it cheers

Will do cheers

another great tip thank you with silicone costing so much that's a really good one cheers

Details please!

@@playgrounddolls7766 Well, it's pretty much just as I said above: don't throw failed molds or one-shot molds away. Don't throw scraps of cured silicone away - save 'em all up, wash 'em in hot, soapy water and let them dry. Then when you've got a mahoosive mold to make (or even a not-so-mahoosive one, but you're nearly out of RTV silicone or can't afford to buy any more or can't get to the shop), take your "rescued" silicone and add it into your newly-mixed and poured silicone to bulk it out. You can throw in large pieces, or cut it into smaller ones to fit awkward spaces in the mold. The new silicone adheres perfectly to the old stuff (as long as it's clean). Try to orient your rescued silicone to avoid trapping air bubbles under the chunks - maybe wiggle them around as you put them into the new stuff, or pour the new stuff into the gaps between the rescued chunks so that air bubbles are more likely to be "floated" out. You might find that if you've gone for a particular, low Shore hardness (A20 and below) that the chunks - even if made of the same Shore grade - will make the whole mold harder and a little more rigid. In fact, grinding rescue silicone up in one of those hand-cranked meat grinder things (I tried it in a coffee bean grinder and it ended up blowing the motor!!) and then mixing it with freshly mixed silicone can give you a very tough-feeling finished product indeed. And, of course, you can go on and re-use THESE mongrel molds - although that's not something I've actually tried, but I can't see why it wouldn't work... And, obviously, if you're like some YooToobers who mix up a whole kg of RTV and only use a third of it - LOL! - save the stuff that sets in and on your mixing equipment., and chop that up for recycling too. Seriously, I've saved £££££s and ££££££s doing this - loet me know if there's anything useful that I've missed!

@@MarkMichalowski wow. Thats a long comment:-) Thank You for Your time and great tip. All best!

@@playgrounddolls7766 A pleasure! :)

Yes but not the concrete just the cement no sand or stones 👍👍

Thanks you great to hear from you👍👍

Thanks pal

Thank you! Cheers!

@@FilamentForge i m a fan, hope to see another project soon, ( since iv watched your channel, i bought an airbrush and train myself on a 1.72. scale millennium falcon).

If I can do it so can you 👍👍

Cheers

Thanks pal

A good vibrator rod comes in handy for a lot of things ;)

Rock on 😊🤘🤘

I did but it was my first time using latex so didn't what to over complicate things cheers

wish I had thought of that great tip cheers

Sorry it's been a while and I'm glad my videos have helped you out I got stuck in lazy mode after Christmas but I'm out of it now 👍👍👍

@@FilamentForge I know the feeling. I started Deadpool's bust (1 foot tall) last year and I am half way through. I keep telling myself to finish. I should jump on it and finish! thanks again for your videos!

@@jesselampon1479 that's on my to-do list

Also a quick tip use a sander without the sandpaper and vibrate the mold releases all the air out to rise to the top then compressed air or blow torch over the top to get rid of them

@@playdeathsdidn't think of that great tip cheers

That's good to know cheers

To fix the air holes I used cement it did the job perfectly I got the tip from a concrete casting RU-vidr and as for strength I think your idea is for structures concrete needed for load-bearing 👍👍

latex is a lot cheaper and as for shrinking I didn't have any cheers

i think the bust is about 5 kgs and as long as you dont waste to much sand and cement making it is quiet cheap cheers

No and it came off fine I only used one before pouring the concrete

good quality filament and 0.1 or 0.2 layer height and i usually use a good filler primer

Just cheaper and easy to pull off the model cheers

It did well spotted 👍👍

Oh also a follow up question is how much did it cost not including the 3d print part?

I just searched RU-vid for concrete casting videos and watched them a lot until I figured it all out it best to search for each individual thing you need to know more about like how to mix concrete and so on thanks for watching cheers

Filament Forge awesome thankyou for the reply

Latex is more flexible and stretchy making it really easy to remove from the concrete cheers

The latex came off really easily it's like an elastic band so you stretch it to get it off and the plaster bandage mother mold was a two-part it split down the middle 👍👍

Thanks pal

formbot raptor2.0

if you check back in about a month I will have a gladiator hulk for sale

@@FilamentForge I'm in the UK so shipping would not be a problem. Do you have an email address I could have ?

to get rid of the bubbles I added a little bit more water to the mix and increased the cement and because I reinforced the mother mold with fibre glass I was able to vibrate the model more my picking it up and shaking it

@@FilamentForge cool...thax

@@FilamentForge With smaller models you do not always need a mother mold and can squeeze it around a bit. Also using less aggregate will make it smoother.

Thank you for the kind words as for the cast I'm giving three away to my patreons and as for tips best thing you can do if find a RU-vidr that has your printer that has done a set up how to video for your printer and as for finishing prints like painting them you could check out my videos and see if they help good luck with your new hobby cheers

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cgSZTfGthMw.html

Yes

Yes 👍

Latex is a lot cheaper and I've still got about 4lt left for other builds

I think about £15 FOR 5 LT

you could get at least 100 cast out of this mold but you have to be carful of latex don't expose it to sun light and when cleaning it just use water no chemicals latex is cheaper but takes longer to apply but is a lot more flexible so you can just pull it of the mold but also the have to apply it in a well ventilated room

@@FilamentForge so silicone is harder to demold and is not as durable and long lasting as latex... is cost the same? thax

@@roadstar499 Silicone is over ten times as expensive as latex.

I just wanted it in concrete because it will out last a PLA print and concrete model get painted all the time but normally just black and white cheers

Yes but I would go for the raptor 2.0

@@FilamentForge wich one do yourecommend the trex 3+ , the trex 3.0 , the raptor 2+ or the raptor 2.0

Will do cheers

I did think of that but I don't have much woodworking skills or equipment which I plan on improving on in the future cheers

@@FilamentForge yea it's ok you could make resin cast sections of geometric shapes and the use them for different bases also

Great idea thanks for that👍👍

@@FilamentForge I used to base cast figures on wooden bases pretty cheap to make tile , wood bottom of plastic bottles, cork scraps of plastic, everything works as a base

@@legsakimbo666 Might be nice with a more organic shape made from concrete. You can sculpt it a bit like clay if you get the mix right.

If was pretty manageable latex is very stretchy and flexible

It helps that you had a wide base and no nasty narrow bits that can break off.

good idea but I do like manual mixing helps me burn cals cheers

@@FilamentForge I'd prefer a more consistent mix might help with the curing process of getting the air and bubbles out slightly. Burnning calories are over rated

I showed a bit but I had to edit some out because it's all really a 40min video and a lot of people don't like them too long cheers

The giveaway is just for patreons I'm trying to kick start it with something really cool if it goes well I will be doing more

@@FilamentForge $25 is a bit steep for me but I love you work

@@julianchadwick6038 there's two other tiers $3 & $9 I'm a bit new to the whole Patreon thing still working on it I wish I could give them away for free it's just shipping is going to cost a fortune 👍👍

Mike The Gamer Because of the quality, texture, and also just the fact that it is made out of concrete makes it cooler. There are more reasons but those are the main I think

Have you ever heard people say 'I don't what that one it's made of cheap plastic I will find a better quality one' it's just like that plus I'm a maker it's what we do cheers

Tell me

thanks pal

I don't have permission to sell them but if you become a patron your name will be put in the draw