This over-engineered IKEA hack got out of hand! 

This is a video filled with my worst decisions, but with somehow the best outcomes haha. Thanks Hendrik for the cherry on top by electroplating the remote power button! Check out his channel www.youtube.com/@hen3drik If you have any concerns about the temperature of my PC, especially in this hot weather, I'll post an update on Twitter if there are any noteworthy findings. Things are looking good and it's so silent that I thought that the remote power button broke xD

Your pc was loud in that call! And this is coming from somenoe that puts his face next to pulsjet engines!

I love how you could have just replaced the fans, but instead, you spend a lot of money and resources to build something and in the end replace the fans either way. I love it xD

Sound Engineer here with a few "rule of thumbs" for improve your project: 1- Acoustic foam is used for sound reflection absorption, not insulation. It does have an small effect, but you probably already realized that. the deeper the foam, the lower the frequency it will absorb. Consider leaving a gap between it and the walls of the cabinet, and it will have a better efficiency. 2- for springs absorption, the perfect amount of deformity under load for it absorb vibrations is about 30%. For example, your string should stretch 30% while holding your computer to have a more efficient absorption of the vibrations. 3- I will assume the main source of noise in your cabinets where the vents: open windows directly into the noise. You could build a duct like box filled with absorbent materials for your air circulation, and this would mitigate your problem.

Such an engineer move, creating a whole cabinet when it was as easy as replacing the cooler ;) Also for reference, the foam you used is meant to stop echoes in a room, not block sound from coming out. So it actually has a very minimal effect in this case. You'd want something much denser such as rock wool or proper sound isolation panels to block the sound from coming out (not that they are needed anymore for this project).

a easy way to make meshes is to pause the print halfway, then tension a nylon stocking over the print, then resume. the fabric will be embedded in the print. :-)

So, instead of solving the overheating with a better case and cooler, we invested into an ikea chokebox. I knew subscribing to you was a good idea

Measure once, cut twice, hate life

Jon, this was 100% an emotional rollercoaster, and 100% worth the watch. Thanks!

You better do a tutorial on how to do an infill image. It looked so good!

Your dedication to "cinematic" filming is next level! Pretty impressive👏

I just ran water lines to the crawl space under my house where the water passes through a car radiator. The crawl space is always cool and the radiator is big enough that it doesn't even need fans. Best of all, my house doesn't get hot from the PC.

The janky table saw *chefs kiss*

I really like the creative approaches! Thanks for being part of the project 😃

I want to applaud you, for consistently creating enjoyable videos. I always look forward to your video postings. Your editing, ideas and execution of your insane ideas are mile above what all the other content creators in the 3d printing realm are creating. You have the best 3d printing content on youtube by miles!

like usual BEAUTIFULLY OVERKILL

I normally would suggest people to reduce the sound emission before trying to dampen in. But clearly it makes a much better video the other way around. 😂 There were so many cool ideers in this one video. I fucking loved it. 👍

Awesome video. Great music. Glad you walk through the process.

I'm left in awe about this work. Thank you for sharing!

Nifty project! I built myself a sound proof box for a compressor recently- the thing is way louder than any PC, it's deffening. It's still loud but it works- makes a significant difference. For me, it's basically just a box with some foam on the inside with as many extra pillows and blankets as possible on the outside- it's got a mini box fan intake and an air outlet to keep it cool. I use it for air assist while laser cutting/engraving so it runs a lot when I'm doing a job.

That was one amazing video! I love your humor...

Man... I love this. This is exactly the process I go through anytime I need to solve a problem. Thank you for pulling back that shameful curtain and validating all of us that struggle with this same thing 😂

Way easier would have been to let the PC auto start after power outage (setting in BIOS) and then control the power with a smart socket. That's what I do and works perfect.

I cracked up when you redid the panel while looking at the camera LOL

What a video very inspiring ! thank you for your work .

Please provide more information on how you used infill to create your screen/filter. That looks like it would have many applications.

That is one proper computer cabinet and an equally proper power button! The best part, however, is the insiring journey! Thanks!

Those cable grommets... jesus christ that is SO SMART 👏😭 fantastic.

What a total damn trip! Thanks as usual for the best content!

You know what, I’m always into a good controlled environment solution. The managed + filtered airflow in itself makes this a great office QOL piece. Plus, now you’ve got a standardized office decor approved exterior, with the freedom to use “get it done by any means” methods inside. 😂 love it!

Great film. Epic journey. Awesome design|fab. Mahalo for sharing!

Its hard to believe that this is “just a RU-vid video“. Love the editing, music, shots and story telling. Great job Jon!

Overengineering is the best type of content, imo. Thank you, man. It was cool and a little hilarious)

The fact that you kept that really dumb mistake in the video was absolutely amazing. I have made hundreds of those stupid mistakes when making things. It's good to know I'm far from the only one. Lol.

Love the way you do things. Kick starting a saw like that had me burst out in laughter.

Man, your projects and creativity is always fun to watch.

Fantastisch, zo herkenbaar!

haha, that ending! As always, great video.

Not the video we expected, but the video we needed.

I love this project. I’ll probably do something similar to quiet my printers. I’ve been trying to dream up something similar, but this gives me lots of new possibilities.

His fan was loud.. so he got a new table 😂 love it.

Again, an awesome video. You produce some of the most emotional 3D printing content there is. 😄

Noctua loves this content

Another engineer here - reducing sound radiation is not a simple task. (Sauce, specified and worked with sound-measurement anechoic chambers.) The principal you're looking for is called mass loading. For every doubling of the mass per unit area of a wall, the sound transmission is reduced by 6 dB. For reference, the human ear needs 3 dB difference to even be detectable, but it's logarithmic. For a thing to "sound" half as loud, it needs about 10 dB reduction. Your ikea box walls need to have their mass per unit area quadrupled to reduce the sound by 12 dB. There are products you can apply to do that (foam-backed, mass-loaded-vinyl for example). It's really hard to do what you were trying to do. Oh, and any openings kill the performance. A gap of a fraction of an inch would virtually negate the effect of a really heavy sound reduction box. So, ventilation is a nightmare. It's FAR preferable if at ALL possible to simply reduce the source noise level. Which, of course, you did eventually find out. Still, I love the work you did!

Wauw, je verast me met elke video ik kan niet wachten op de nieuwe IDEX 3D printer video. Veel succes!

Finally everything for THE POWER BUTTON 😂😂😂😂

Thats alot of work. But now you have an awesome power button !

There is a option in the BIOS to start when the PC get power again. If you have home automation or just a power connect plug you can control with a switch

IKEA PLATSA on Spotify when!?

Great video as usual ! I turn my PC on automatically when power is connected. Every motherboard have this setting :)

I never comment on videos, but this is the first one I have seen of yours and you are hilarious. Definitely have my sub and like. Keep it up!

Rabbit holes are a tinkers best discovery ;o). Really enjoyed the video and the collaboration with the other SMEs. Keep rocking brother!

This is amazing!

Loving the woodworking 👍

Maybe The Real Treasure Was the Friends We Made Along the Way.

I just love watching your videos. It seems like each one is more entertaining yet more informative than the last. Honestly, because of this I watch all your videos, even if it's something I'm not into (like resin printing) cause I know it'll be a fun video and time well spent. Keep pumping out great content! P.S. I SOOO wish I had a remote power button for my PC. It's a bit of a stretch to reach it under my desk.

I used that infill trick to make a diffraction grating to focus a telescope, it worked really well

Yeah! The day just got better!

That AIO wasn't underperforming, it's your bloody 14900k being a nuclear reactor that needs at least a 360 rad to cool

what an amazing journey.

This is so epic.

As a very early subscriber of yours, it's amazing to see where you get, and it's also very comforting to see that even a pro like you makes mistakes and has to reprint or recut something(which happens to me all the time, haha)

Your journeys are always epic, lol.

Sweet defeat at the end...

I give a all the credit in the world for sticking with that project. I would have just got some long cables and stuck it in a closet.

Man your surprised expressions ! 😂

Roft xD great video :)

A rollercoaster of emotions, packed full of awesome problem solvong. I think you should have mounted it outside 👀

Lol.... Amazing. Love the Saw.

Best damn video from anyone anywhere for a long ass time ... and that's saying something. :-)

This video shows the essence of engineering. I mean, overthinking about a proyect and then find a better, cheaper and easier way to do it xd

Congrats on the channel.

The power button is very nice. Doubted the cabinet from the start of the video but still watched to the end as your videos are always very entertaining and very well made.

NH-D14 for life!!! Hehe, jk, love the new setup!🎉🎉

this whole video was about an open case design, inside a case 🥰

Super vet om te zien dat jij casual zit te bellen met Integza. Ook jouw humor met de naam van je TeringDikke20TB schijf kon ik erg om lachen. Elke keer toffe videos. Dank je wel

freakin' sweet, dude.

For your filter screens, you can actually get a much better result if you basically do an overmold for the inserts. Rather than having the printer do the infill, stretch something like a 100 micron nylon or acrylic mesh fabric over an frame. Part of the way through printing the open frame, pause the print, stretch the mesh out over it and start the print back up and it will sandwich the mesh between the layers of the print. That will allow you to get a much finer mesh size that you will be able to get with the printer doing the infill it's self.

As someone that hates unnecessary sound my tip is to run all fans at a relatively low RPM. For 120 mm fans if you can rund them at 500-700 RPM most fans will be relatively silent. I set my fan control, such that my fans slowly ramp up in speed and never exceeds 1100 RPM under normal use. Then I have a emergency setting with all fans full speed if temps get above an unacceptable level. I go overkill on heating area. It is expensive the rist time, but it can be reused. Om my current setup I am running 2 3x120 mm radiator. But my CPU only uses about 120 W, thus it is super overkill. But silent. Other tips for a low noise system. If you can add 5-10 mm of air between the fan and the radiator/grill or what ever, it can reduce the noise. Make sure your fans are not all running at the exact same speed (assuming you are using the same fans in the same size), if possible separate the fanspeed with steps of ~+-50-100 RPM. This spread the noise over are larger frequency range and make it less annoying. Make sure you fans do not change speed fast. I am adjusting fan speed according to my water temp, and that will always change slowly, do to the large thermal mass of the water. If you are controlling your fans using CPU temp, or CPU utilization some fan controllers can add some inertia to the ramp up and down, such that the fan speed changes slowly over af few seconds. Say 10 s. Use rubber mounts on your fan (and old school HD's) to avoid vibrations into the tower. And have damping material on the large panels if the tower such that any vibrations gets dampened. (many towers comes with this as default, but if you have a glass panel this is not an option.) Even with all this, you may still be unlucky and your pc may make coil whine noise. It can be super hard to find the exact component making the noise thuse a box like this would help against that. But you need to make sure the new fans don't just add new sound, and the box needs to remove as much air as the tower can, cause you don't want to recycle the air inside the box. The wireless start button really makes the box idea genius 👍

You can flip the foam upside down to mesh together and create a flat surface if you absolutely had to set the PC down

When you did your first cut of the furniture board I was thinking "Man, bro should get a right angle ruler" and felt vindicated, yet sad, when you put the panel on the cabinet and saw that it didn't match. Great video mate.

Soooo cool

I was not expecting to laugh out loud watching this but you got me four times

Very cool project! One idea for improvement: Arrange the fans differently. You want more fans pushing air into the case than fans extracting air. This is to create positive pressure inside the case, meaning you will have air "leaking" out of any cracks. This is good because otherwise you might get dust sucked into the case through these cracks which is supposed to end up in the filters instead. Also use fans made for high static pressure instead of high airflow when you're pushing air though a filter.

Everyone in the comments saying "such an engineer move" are silly. 1. He stated that he bought "big fans with high rpm" to cool his PC but they're loud when what he purchased was Noctua fans which is brand KNOWN for combining high performance with low sound. (further proven that the "silent fans" he purchased were also from Noctua 2. He owns an LTT screwdriver. One video series that Linus was doing for literal years was trying to make a completely silent PC and came to the conclusion (multiple times) that the best strategy to lower sound is to move the PC out of the room you are occupying. (Don't start commenting about cable lengths because Linus managed to route cables throughout his entire house) 3. He wanted to place the computer under his desk; however, there was a clearance issue. Low profile casters exist and in the end he ends up placing the PC next to the desk thus defeating the entire purpose of placing it under his desk, lost desk space because of the smaller desk, and lost floor space because the computer now occupies an area that it could have shared with the desk. all this to say what he says at the end: I bought a better water-cooler and it was quieter. This was not an "over-engineered IKEA hack" this was you goofing around with fans and 3d printers while you got to cut up cheap furniture. People have been trying to do this stuff for decades and engineers know this because they do research. He failed in this task because he didn't do what exactly?

Those panel mount buttons are the best. They work great for klipper gcode_button as well.

Jou zelfspot is on top haha. Jou video's laten altijd zo mooi zien hoeveel moeite het kost om iets van scratch te maken, maar des te meer de voldoening!

If you revisit this, you might want to consider creating an audio muffler. Theres a pretty good demonstration on the gamer nexus channel when they have their anechoic chamber tour, but basically its a long tube lined with foam. If you design one with a 180 degree turn at the end, it should in theory eliminate all noise, as there is nowhere that the sound waves can travel linearly without hitting and being absorbed by the foam, but air can still flow easily in and out.

So you made your PC enclosure "Earthquake proof". About using infill for filters. I also do this as you can easily change the density by changing the infill percentage.

I've done infill filters before, or rather i tested it and it looked good i just wasn't convinced that it was what i wanted or that any actual filtering would be happening. You can even set an extra low extrusion width if you check that the infill has somewhere to anchor, some trickery may be needed.

Ok this power button!! i need it xD

You had a great idea! Its so nice to have all loud things in a silent cabinet! However it would be more useful if you used heavy soft things to dampen the sound instead of light soft things. The sound waves need to impact the soft thing and shed as much power as possible in them. If the material is heavier then the sound will spend more power to vibrate it. Imagine you would have a sonar. Light things would be transparent. and heavy things would be opaque. The heavier and softer the material the better! The usecase for the light soft things is to reduce echo when recording but not to sound proof. Meaning light soft things will not reflect sound due to their texture but the soundwave will still pass through! There are ready made sound proofing materials. They all confuse you with random stats and what not. Pretty sure they are all valid for a sound engineer but overall just compare the weight and you will have a good rule of thumb for soundproofing! HEAVY and SOFT is what you are looking for.

I guess there's a reason why Noctua calls this fan type "Industrial"... 😂

SUPER LIKE 👏...although I would've just dumped the PC in the balcony, covered it with an umbrella and called it a day 😂

Bruh... So much wasted potential.... 1. Your foam does nothing in there except keep heat in. Real audio diffusion foam is HARD, I suspect you have the Chinese knock-off stuff that we all were duped into buying. 2. You need something high density to dampen the interior, for example drywall or cement. You can also buy damping material made for this like a thick tar-like sticky pad that you glue onto the inside of the cabinet. 3. Put baffles in corners. Just google Acoustic Corner Bass Trap 4. Why put a cabinet in your cabinet when you could... put PC components in the cabinet! Just mount alu plate with standoffs directly to the inside wall of IKEA cabinet and mount components directly to that. TIP: Look at DIY perks channel on RU-vid for lots of awesome details 5. Hang the ikea cabinet under your desk so you can strip down all the wires and get a vacuum cleaner under it.

As someone who also made the mistake of getting those Noctua industrial 3000rpm fans... fucking PC sounded like a new type of quadcopter drone getting ready for takeoff.

I am being pedantic but I think that mechanical switch you made is NAND instead of OR

Toch leuk gemaakt

5 Things you need for a silent build: - FANCONTROL - Many, big fans, runing at extremely low RPM - More heatsink/radiator than your part needs - All the airflow (you'll definitelly need a bigger case to be able to cool the 14900K). - Remove sound dampening for more airflow. As a system integrator it took me a few similar bad decisions to find out that there's no way to "soundproof" a PC. You can make it dead silent though... (Pretty much the only part you can't quiet down any other way are the hard drives, but nowadays it's easy to go full SSD on your workstation and you totally should put a NAS somewhere else anyway). What you need is "just a bit above enough" cooling via heatsinks, and good airflow optimization. That way with proper fan control you can get absolute silence during regular use, and maaaybe some sound during a heavy load like exporting/rendering. There's pretty much no way to dampen the sound properly without sacrificing airflow that is a lot more important. To the specifics: - For the CPU, get a liquid cooler that's almost overkill for you cpu, (in your case there's pretty much no such thing as overkill because the 14900k is running like it has the depths of hell running in it) so go with something like an Arctic Liquid Freezer 360 or even 420. - For the GPU you generally just look at the datasheet and go with the heaviest card with the biggest heatsink and most heatpipes for the money. (Yours should be fine. Idk what GPU is in there but that card is quite a chonk.) - FANS. MORE FANS. You need preferably 140 fans and at least 3 intakes and 2 outputs. Noctuas are great and all, but Arctic's new P14 MAX fans are close to being the same for a fraction of the price, there's a 5 pack, grab that (and maybe 2 fan splitters with that). Fan placement: You'll probably need a new case to fit it all. One that can have 3 intakes in the front (/bottom), and have enough space for your 360 or 420 rad on the top. While we're at it, your radiator in this case should be on the output side for sure. You don't want that extreme heat output from that 14900k to cook all your other components too. Configure your fan headers in a way that you have your inputs and outputs on separate headers, so later you can control them indipendently. FAN CONTROL: ...download Fancontrol by Rem0o. An extremely handy and easy to use software that enables advanced fan control. Here's the general idea of configuration: - The secret sauce: Add 2 "Time Avarage" custom sensors. One for the CPU one for the GPU. Set them to 30-60 seconds. This will prevent all temperature fluctuation related unnecessary fan speedups. - Add 2 "Graph" fan curves using the AVG sensors as inputs. - For the first point choose a minimum operating speed, about 20-40% or where the fans are running at around 500-900rpm which should be close to absolute silence. The temperature you set this point to should be the "activation temperature" at which you start "actively" cooling your system. I usually set it to 50-60C°. - The second point on you graph is going to be the max that defines your "fan curve aggression". I'd recomend starting off with 100%, 100C° (it's not going to reach that temp don't worry), put the system under load and use this second point to change the "curve"s steepness to where the temps are in the comfortable(GPU under 80, CPU under 90) range with the lowest possible fan speed. EXTRAS: Case pressure: You should always have more input air than output, creating positive pressure, preventing unfiltered air leaking into your rig through gaps. Filtering: Make sure that you choose a case with mesh panels and removable dust filters, they make maintenace easier. (When having enough filtered air input space, make sure to block all other unfiltered gaps and holes that might be on your case panels, to again prevent unfiltered airflow.) PSU: Get a high efficiency psu, with preferably a lowspeed/off fan function. Whenever a fanblade is facing a grill or mesh (usually on the input side), make sure there's at least 5mm clearance (you can print a spacer) to prevent noise. Rad push-pull: if it fits in your case, put a fan on both sides of the radiator for more efficient cooling. ... i just wanted to point out a few things but it kinda got a bit longer, I hope it ends up being helpfull for anyone.

awesome