To make these pieces of stabilized wood I used a stump of lime wood and a few pieces of birch wood prepared earlier. The whole process lasted about 3 weeks, however, the work itself was about 2 days. / mn-projects-3654940871...
Be careful.. Someone might be able to tell what kind of polymer you are using.. I see many people have asked.. Don't know why you are making videos if you don't put that kind of info in your notes area.. Bye..
Hey, nice project as always ;) I thought about stabilizing myself aswell for a long time. May you post the link to the resin you used in the discription maybe? :) Regards from germany :)
I know you commented this about a year ago, but here is a good stabilizing resin from Germany: www.harzspezialisten.de/umweltfreundliches-infiltrationsharz or if you want to buy a set with a vacuum pump and chamber: www.harzspezialisten.de/Set_Vakuum_Stabilisieren
@@davidostertag7689 Hey, thank you very much for your reply. I am still doing this, so any recommendation is appreciated :) I will have a Look tomorrow! :)
Hi, nice results there. Wonder if these stabilized woods are food safe _ Planning a butcherblock cuttingboard and infusing with colour is tempting. But is it safe For knife handles and such I see no problem :) Hope to hear from you, have a nice day. TR
So just the vacuum and release of pressure was enough to place the dye and resin all the way in. If the wood was thicker I think it would need some pressure chamber after the vacuum.
This question has been asked by many people, but it is obvious that the author keeps this sacred secret ... The man just wants to share his joy with the audience.
Great video. Like lots of the other commenters I’d love to know whether the resin you used was Cactus Juice or something else. Cactus Juice is great but it’s so expensive here in Europe and I’ve not been able to source al alternative.
The resin used is Metyl Metacrylate MMA. That is the methyl ester of methacrylic acid (MAA), it is a monomer produced on a large scale for the production of poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA). this resin should be activated before use by means of Metly Etyl Ketone Peroxide (MEKP) at 0.1 % wich is the same activator used for polyester resin. I hope this will be usefull for you.
@@calderon4128According to what I understood, the resin is PMMA, I was researching and in my country I don't think there is that one, what else could I use?
Wow it's fantastic!!! Can you say to me if i also can use water color and if the process is the same? I would paint but not doing it in hours for 1 piece!!! Thank you ;)
Have you ever tried dying wood, adding color in vacuum, without stabilizing it (so using water instead of resin)? Did the color penetrate to the center or only on the surface?
Would you be so kind to make a detailed video and pass a list of the materials you used, so much the resin, what kind of resin is the time in emptiness you do and all the details please. thank you congratulations.
Vacuum does a better job, first it removed the air from inside the wood and then when pressure is restored any spot that previously had air is now soaked with the resin and the dye, of course the bigger the wood the more time you need for this. Pressure does something similar but it doesn't remove the air, it compresses it and the resin can penetrate the wood, once you restore the pressure to normal some of the resin might be pushed out by the air that is still in the wood.
Hooch, this is a sequel to his knife-making video. At the end of that one he promised us he would show us how he stabilized the wood for the handles of his knives.
I do not know how for others, but I do not like the look of such a tree, I love the natural color. And then I watched the test video after such stabilization - the tree becomes very fragile. Why so much time and money spent if the tree is perfectly stabilized by coating linseed oil.
