13 years ago, I used this kind of, negative scan. The initial files, were huge, for the old computers. Without compressing file, the computers would, slow to a halt. Great videos! Keep going!
I'm probably never going to scan film strips ever, but I'm still watching out of curiosity and because I'm so glad to see you sticking to your guns and rules about sponsored content. As always, keep up the great work, Lon!
I got a disposable camera and brought the film to walmart,that was a year ago,and I still haven't got it back.lol any way very interesting and cool video you deserve the sponsorship
I'm glad you made this help video for this old software. Also youtube asked when I graduated high school before letting me watch this. So I think it assumes I'm old for watching this.
Hi there I've just invested in an epson v850 pro, which comes with Silverfast. i have followed your great video. However i just ran iSRD on 1 photo, how do i save the edited photo and also return to the batch files that were scanned previously . i looked in my folder but just displays the unedited version. thank you.
It would be nice to 'splain the relationship between editing scanned files (IR scratch detection etc..) and SAVING them. Let's say you are batch scanning. When is the scratch detection done? Is it done one slide at a time thus defeating the batch scan? If I make the changes as shown, how are they saved and which file is the master file? I like the presentation but overall it's a little bit spotty on details..
Hi, if you cannot use iSDR (the infrared option), you'll have to do the edit BEFORE you batch scan; SilverFast will save each individual edit with the batch job. When you are done editing, you click the batch scan button and SilverFast will scan each negative, apply the edits respectively, and saves the scanned image to your hard disk. This is also true for any individual color corrections, etc. you want to perform on individual frames. If iSDR is possible, you could also do this: Select one represantative frame from the batch, turn on iSRD (I'd recommend to lower the sensitivity from 18 or 19 down to 10 - 12, as otherwise it will introduce unwanted artifacts on fine lines in the image), do some basic editing (e.g. contrast, etc.) and apply the settings to all the frames in the batch. This will most likely require some editing of the final image files, though (either in Photoshop, Lightroom or any other photo editor). OR, you do not apply any edits at all, but save the batch to SilverFast's proprietary RAW format and do all the edits afterwards, using SilverFast's HDR Studio software (has nothing to do with today's HDR images--it's just the name of their image editor software, which is able to process SilverFast's RAW files). ATTENTION: The file extension is TIFF, but it cannot safely be opened with any other photo editing software, as the file also contains the infrared channel, which e.g. Photoshop or the like cannot handle at all. After you opened the file in any other photo editor and saved it, the IR information will be lost forever. Two additional remarks to accompany this good video: I'd recommend to scan the emulsion side of the film (the matt side) instead of scanning the emulsion through the acetat carrier (glossy side). SilverFast offers a simple button you need to click to get the output mirrored (i.e. with the correct orientation). Thus you avoid unwanted reflections from the glossy acetat layer, which may cause issues in the scanned image. I'd also recommend to always scan to 48 bit (= 16 bit per color channel); the gradation in the resulting scans is much closer to the actual gradation in the film. If you want to post those pics on Instagram, etc., you can always create JPG copies from your TIFF files with just 8 bits per color channel (24 bit). Apologies for the lengthy response, but hope it helps a bit with this topic. Cheers & good luck, Michael
I wasn't old enough to drive at the time, but I really wanted a 1993 Ford Probe. Doesn't look like yours was the GT, though - that model was really cool.
when i get to the prescan stage i just get a black preview screen with some junky red or green lines on it. have tried it so many times with different settings. positives scan great
Hi Lon, your tutorial was very helpful to me in understanding how to use SilverSoft Ai Studio using Epson V850 scanner. I have large number of color negatives that need to be digitized. Epson V850 is too show to scan that many negatives. I would like to use Sony 7AR IV digital camera to take their photos and process them though SilverSoft Ai Studio to remove scratches. Do you have a tutorial covering this subject.
@Lon - did you ever follow up with videos on how you organize your digital media files (pictures, specifically)? I can't find it and would love to know what you use. I'm currently using an older version of Lightroom, and am looking for something to replace Lightroom. In Lightroom, I really like the keywords, collections, and organization capabilities. I DON'T like the monthly subscription fee software model, which is why I'm looking for some other solution. Thanks for your thoughts!
I recall the many hours I spent scanning in old photographs for my mom, dad, grandma. That was on whatever scanning software that came with the scanner I bought. This software is certainly better even though what I was using from IBM, VISTA Scan, and later Epson had some batch scanning capabilities. Is it safe to assume that when a negative is scanned at 48-bit and the highest screen resolution that when the softening of image quality occurs after scratches and other blemishes are"removed" that the resulting degradation isn't as noticeable?
Great video, thanks. Do you know if the software will work if the scanner you are using does not have the special negative holders? Can you just lay your negatives down on the scanner glass?
I just bought a Plustek 8200i with Silverfast 8 and I wonder if it will be able to correct this problem. 38 years ago I took 2 photos at the end of a film and one got partly overlaid onto the by about a quarter of each shot like they were Siamese twins. I want to scan them and try to digitally separate them.
Have watched your channel for MANY years now & enjoy your content + transparency. That said, idk why, but saw a link on one of your vids leading to an off-site explanation/disclosures... & went to read it. I absolutely 10000% agree with you & it is really sad & unfortunate that, prob... 95% do not properly or fully disclose what, when, where & how they should (& legally, are required to... by FTC, CAP & YT/Google) Problem is, there's little enforcement, so.... $ becomes too tempting. Bigger problem imho & something I've been really paying attention to & saving, forming lists, even.. reporting on a few for certain reasons.... is that SO many apparently have zero issue taking advantage of the very people they should be most loyal to, transparent with & appreciative for! The viewers & consumers who, without..... they not only wouldn't be getting any of those opportunities, they wouldn't even have a channel or ad-sense $ coming in, either. The deception, for many purposeful deception... getting paid more to put out "genuine seeming" content, NOT an ad, phew... will never stop blowing my mind how integrity has become more like some rare gems, rather than the norm! Willing to take from OUR pockets over & over..... to better line their own?! Not ok. I just wish the FTC, YT... would crack down once & for all. Make an example of someone, a few even.... it's the only way the majority will comply. If there are consequences to fear. The really unfortunate part, is all the tiny or new channels who, unknowingly (even tho, yes.. it IS their responsibility to know the rules, guidelines, laws... as they pertain/apply to them & their content) are just following the lead of some bigger channels. Those who think they are doing the right things in the right ways & BAM... When that hammer does come down, the bigger channels who have already profited & took while they can, stashing it away "until"... can just skate out, be done, move on.... All while, the new/smaller channels were prob counting on every penny coming in & they will pay the ultimate price as their channels get terminated &/or they get fined for not disclosing. Whether here, Instagram (some there, way worse!!!)... VERY few are compliant. I've had to unsubscribe & no longer watch some of my favs who I had been following & supporting for nearly a decade.... once I saw through, as to what they were doing & why. Purposeful links, tags, placement of products... Certain things put into "favorite" videos & in a certain order, each.. for a certain amt of time. Each of those brands, paying for that "spot".... sick, really is. I have zero issue with sponsored content. I do think it should be something that is unrelated, but even if it isn't.... as long as it's disclosed & that person has already proven themselves to be honest, have integrity & good character.. I'd trust in what they were doing/saying. It's the purposefully NOT disclosing, not stating something was sent free... Not being transparent w/ the natural bias or gain on their part, having a connection or agreement w/ that company/brand/product. Some, most.. beauty channels in descriptions, will put something like, "items used today...." then a listing of products. Usually a BIG one. Most don't realize that they go through the many affiliate sites they have/know of & then, list.... the products that have the highest return & commission that day. The highest dollar items, even if.... it wasn't even something they had, let alone wore!!! Same on IG, they post a pic & in the caption, will tag tons of brands. Little do people know, those are sponsored posts, paid mentions/promos... making some of them HUGE MONEY PER... I don't like being lied to & wish more would stop rewarding bad behavior. That the brands would demand better, that YT & Google would enforce their own TOS w/ advertising... & that the FTC would even look into the issue they say is so big, but do nothing about. I've reported stuff like 2 years ago & never even got a response, let alone.. any action or accountability. Those people STILL don't disclose, of course. Anyway, sorry for the ramble. As much as I enjoy your channel, I hope you take this w/ good intention... ESP since you are using this vid as example in your disclosure info... A lot easier to place a statement ABOVE any of the links, stating something like... "the following, if marked with ** ... are affiliate links. With no additional cost to you, their use helps the channel by providing a commission in return for purchases made" ..... Has to be above the links, so that... the viewer is made fully aware, prior to already having clicked away. Using the ** makes it easier, so you don't have to put that entire statement above EVERY link. Which, speaking of.... please be sure to also mark that Amazon one, further down. It, too.... is an affiliated, non disclosed, link. ;) Just thought you'd want to know & update that. Thanks for all you do here.... for your humility & esp your integrity!!! It's what EVERYONE should be doing!!! Stay safe & be well.
Informative video, but I still have a couple of questions. First, what frame setting do I use when I scan 120 film? If I make a mistake when scanning, how do I start over? Thanks
I have Silverfast 8.8.or8 that I bought as an upgrade (expensive!) for my Plustek 7400 film scanner. Sadly the Plustek is just not very sharp, from I assume poor film holder to sensor alignment. I am now using a Leica SL 601 camera (24MP full frame digital) with a Leitz BEOON film copying device and a Schneider-Kreuznach Componon S50 lens to scan my films. This is working just great for colour reversal (slides) and B&W but I cannot get the colours dead correct from colour negative film, using Photoshop CS 2017 and various preset actions. Silverfast would seem to be the way to go but it seems to me that my version only imports images from a Plustek scanner. Is there any way to force it to import JPEG's or even better DNG images transferred from my camera to the MacBook Pro which has Silverfast on it? It won't even start the program running unless it detects a Plustek scanner connected. I have also been trying Vuescan but the colours are rather inaccurate and wishy washy. Upping the saturation then tends to make the image a bit blocky.
Hi Wilson, SilverFast Ai software is only meant to work with the scanner it was purchased for. With your scenario you may want to use SilverFast's HDR Studio software, which basically is a photo editing software (originally intended to work with SilverFast's RAW files from a scanner). Since there are scanners out without an infrared channel, I don't see why opening a TIFF (and maybe DNG) file with it shouldn't work. It comes with a neat feature called "NegaFix"--you tell the software, which film stock you are using (e.g. Kodak Portra 160) and it will remove the masking color from your "scans" (based on profiles, which come with the software). I am pretty sure, there is a free demo version available for this software, where you should be able to test the results before purchasing the product. Please note that you should color calibrate your camera before "scanning", especially negatives (using color checker or similar), as the NegaFix profiles cannot compensate for colors that are already off in the original scan.
This was a great tutorial. Very informative without a lot of "fluff" and gee whiz stuff. Solid "how To" information to help me archive all of my negatives, slides and photos. I'm running an Epson V850 Pro with the SilverFast 8 SE Plus software. Thanks!
I was unable to detect the end of a sentence or a breath intake. I have never heard such a continuous flow of information. Others would take more than 3 hours to communicate the same information.
I'm going to scan over 10000 images (photos)... mums old albums. And I'm going to want to scan negatives of the "best" photos I like.. My question; is it possible to scan all images, and later on, open an image and work with the image to remove dust with infrared.
YES. I'm currently using SilverFast Ai Studio to obtain multi exposure, and infrared, RAW image files (SilverFast's proprietary HDRi TIFF format) which I will post-process with SilverFast HDR Studio.
@@drdarrow Oh give him a break, I think he did a very thorough job explaining it at a pace that a beginner would be able to work through it with him while watching the video...
I have used SilverFast for 4 years. It's hands down the kludgiest software ever written and in my opinion a waste of time trying to learn. Think I am wrong? Sign on the their bulletin board and look at all of the problems people are having and the poor quality of the answers.
