This design rocks. I've got 4 built and 2 more cut out. My family and friends are going to love them. I can't wait for the shotgun plans to be made available. Thank you for sharing your designs with us.
i 've made one like this and i solved the problem of brust mode when it shoots two rubberbands same time you just need to make the spring double and the trigers turns faster .
Glue (hundreds of) them into a slab of three layers of Popsicle sticks with the first and third layer lined up horizontally and the second layer vertically. Use wood glue, there you've just spent 3 hours making plywood.,
looks like a zapper :D how about making an actual zapper looking gun that shoots rubber bands, maybe you can make the super nintendo's super scope too!
Wow cool! You know your tools! Thanks for posting. I have one small complaint, though, at 3:18 when you chamfer the plastic block, you should not hand hold the block because the chisel could slip and stab the finger - this happened to me and took 2 stitches on my left thumb.
hey, first of all, your videos are GREAT, and I'm a fan of all your works. I have a question: My local Store had no 19mm thick wood, only 16, 18 ,22, etc. and I went with 18 now, do you think it will work as well? Thanks a lot :) MfG Mojo
My guess is that you took a bit too much wood off the releaser.You could try and glue more wood on and file it back till it works. Otherwise try a stronger/extra spring.
i have the blueprints on my computer and they will not print out page 2 or 3, just 1. Frustrating because all that i get is a cover page useless.could you reply with some other solution? THX
+parabellum1262 hi, i just made this 2 hours ago. But when i try to shoot, it burst so all the rubber bands just shot in a second. I try to shape the rotor, trigger and all that possibly cause an effect when shooting. Any ideas man? Please help me, i like to make RB guns but i just always make many mistakes on it.
felix malvian It could be that the moving parts are too far away from each other. Unfortunately, the design itself is flawed so even if made correctly, it will burst fire if you don't pull the trigger sharply. Sorry; it's not the best advice...
***** I see. But it's ok. It's still good for single round RB guns. I will try to make your other RB guns. I like the bolt action RB guns most but never had enough money to buy from you. May be you can send me for free :D 😆😃😃 Anyway, thanks for the blueprints and tutorial 👍.
It's definitely possible, in fact i started working on a mag-fed blowback design, but I gave up because of how complicated it would be. And the magazines would be about 45cm long!
Hmm, would it be possible to implement the same mechanism thats in the sturmgewehr to this gun? So it would be a cool and simple machine pistol. Btw, your videos and rbg's are awesome! Could u make a really small machine pistol?
Rubbergunner's machine pistol is that cool and simple machine pistol you speak of. It could easily accept cosmetic modifications or a reduction in size. I probably wouldn't use the same mechanism though because it gets fiddly once you start trying to make the gun as small as possible.
Probably something like this: /watch?v=LzqgTkQAlt0 Without wanting to self-advertise, it's a simple select-fire mechanism that can easily be made smaller.
I would like to, but I'm afraid that gun no longer exists because it broke! Hopefully I will get around to using that mechanism again some time, because it worked pretty well.
Thank you for publishing the plans for this. I had great fun building it and my sons love playing with it, One small problem though. When I pull the trigger the rubber band doesn't release until I let go of the trigger. Have I made a mistake with the relationship between the trigger and the rotor? I'm going to build the 1911 next.
Alan Morrison You could try shaving a bit off the angled notches cut into the rotor that the rubber bands sit in so that they are a shallower angle and the bands release earlier. Or it could be that when you load it over halfway, the rubber bands sit underneath one another and so have to slide over other rubber bands to release, so make sure they are stacked on top of each other, if that makes sense.
Thanks for the tutorial, this is great, the design is awesome... I have made all the parts (twice) to make 2 guns, my question is, what is the best way to tackle the glue stage, of F1,F2,F3 to P1, specifically how to best line up the handle, barrel, I think these are the main pieces to get right, F3 as you mention will be located using the trigger...? thanks look forward to your reply and other projects such as this... Cheers
Correct, it's pretty important to line up the F parts with P1. I measure where they go from the main blueprint and mark it on P1. Do the same for F3, but instead use the trigger position to mark where it goes. Make sure the glued join doesn't "creep" once it's clamped - you may need to push it back into place.
***** Thanks for the quick reply... with the glued pieces, I am thinking that the main thing is to make sure that the plastic cog holds into the trigger and that it releases once trigger is squeezed the 4 clunks (click, click, click, click, and start over), this has to be pretty much bang on enough to hold, but enough for it to pass through as well, lastly at what point are you varnishing the pieces after the glued stage and before actual screwing of the side to the main housing? think you said 3 coats I was going to use a clear varnish the type you use of boats to give it a little bit more protection...? cheers again A.
Adrian Owen Yes, the rotor assembly must be very precise. I usually cut the trigger a tiny bit oversize so that I can gradually trim it down till it fits. Varnishing is the final stage. You can varnish it with the sideplate attached or removed, it doesn't really matter. Just make sure you don't gunk up the interior with it. Marine varnish? You can use it if you want, but I just use interior varnish because it's cheaper and dries quicker.
It depends - if you want to make one and sell it to a friend or something, that's fine. I just don't want people using my design simply to make an undeserved profit.
Hey I was actually planning on making the gun RBguns M9 rubber band pistol, but unfortunately the tools I have aren't accurate enough for such small intricate designs. In a comment below you answers what tools you've used to cut these wood and I have all those tools. So my question is will it be find to cut out the pieces in 4mm plywood and to increase thickness, replicate the piece and glue them together? Would this be a good alternative? Thanks
I use these tools: Wood vice, coping saw, hand saw, electric drill, block plane, combination square, half-round file, sandpaper and PVA glue. 4mm plywood is a good alternative.
***** Thank you for your reply. Hopefully I'll be able to make it tomorrow. I only got the coping saw this morning from bunnings and it was giving me problems. Is there any tips to stop the blade from turning? Thanks again for the feedback even after such a long time since this video has been uploaded.
***** Sorry to bother you but, is there anything I can't use plywood 4mm as a substitute? What would be the measurement as well, do I need x amount of layers for a certain something or? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Entarivenes Make sure the handle of the saw is tight before you cut. The handle should be touching the frame. You will need to use some sort of thin plate if you don't have plywood. MDF, masonite, plastic. The inside pieces can be solid wood, about 8-12mm thick.
***** Hey, thanks for the info, and sorry but what I meant by " Is there anything I can't use plywood 4mm as a substitute? " is, that is there any piece I shouldn't use plywood as. Example being, the plates or the inside parts. Also I couldn't really understand how and where you put the little spring. Sorry for sending this at 11:30 at night, its just if I don't reply now, I probably will forget to ask. Thanks
You can clearly see all the tools I use in the vid, but here's a list anyway: Wood working vice G-clamps Tenon saw Coping saw Hand plane Electric drill A chisel Files Sandpaper Pencil, ruler, combination square Dust mask Wood glue Hammer Screwdrivers
Hi, its this possible to do with some other kind of material? I dont really have anything to cut and drill the wood, so i just wanted to know. Thanks in advance.
Unfortunately I can't say because I only work with wood. It could be possible - cardboard would get pretty tough after being soaked in PVA glue and coated with super glue. Maybe look into people who make things out of cardboard and see how they do it.
Hi parabellum. I would like to buy this One :) Its very nice and it looks fine. But i am not so good at building so I want to buy. Please anwser on this comment , thanks :)
