As to your blue sky post. I think 98% of viewers already envy your environment enough. Spokane Washington looks like a wasteland in comparison. Love your content!
Liked the new motor mounts, flies very stable with 10.5 kg. Q: Do you need to register such heavy planes in NZ? Not only is the RID something that is coming, I'm interested in the past, was it needed?
Over 15kg requires some kind of inspection by a man with a clipboard, and 25kg is the limit for any kind of remote controlled aircraft. As far as I know there is no registration of any kind required and I wouldn't do it anyway.
If you put motors and a GPS on your launch trolley you could get it to return to you. That would save having to walk up and down that really steep concrete footpath.
Hay Chris .....about the flaps......my microlight has a max flaps down speed of 50mph so i guess our models will do also so 75kph maybe so fast to put flaps down causing the porpoising at those speeds. maybe set a limit of 55kph and test from there cheers Brett
The Twin Topper has turned out well, and flying very nicely. Like how you are overlaying OSD on HD recording (6:15) using a simple overlay. OSD is there and useful, but doesn't distract from the amazing landscape views. If the porpoising is reduced at 1/2 or 3/4 flap, that might be an optioning until just about to flare. Another option to try is to droop the ailerons a bit, in combination with 1/2 flap, if you are happy with the handling. The turbulence on approach may be related to thermal activity. They typically can detach where a steeper slope exists, or a there's a surface discontinuity. Pausing video over the landslide area (12:50) provided a very sharp views. Wondering if water flowing down the runway resulted in more runoff in that one direction vs typical towards the end of the runway. Perhaps a few deflectors (angled timbers) could help in future if expecting heavy rains. (?) The volume of rain water NZ received is just incredible. Hopefully you have great fall weather to make up for the crazy summer weather.
I think the interaction between flaps and elevator is the problem, so aileron droop probably wouldn't make much difference. I might try landing with half flaps next time and see how that goes. The bottom 2/3 of the airstrip only has a very small slope, and I doubt much water would run down length-ways like a waterslide. On the top 1/3 it might, but I would expect that to cause an excess at the point where the slope flattens out. It's only a few meters wide so doesn't really catch that much water. I think it was just the result of an extreme amount of rain overall, it was the wettest month in over 170 years apparently.
@@iforce2d Was only suggesting to try aileron droop for extra flap effect if you find 1/2 flaps to reduce porpoising. Crazy, 170 years is the 1850's. Official NZ weather reports go back to the late1860's, before that data have been gathered from colonial dairies. Hopefully you (NZ) never sees this much rain in one summer again, for at least 100 years.
yeah 170 years did sound rather extreme. I just fished that up from the first article I found, not sure how dependable it is. It was certainly the most rain in 3 days I've ever experienced, either here or in Japan. yaleclimateconnections.org/2023/02/auckland-just-had-its-wettest-month-in-over-170-years-and-more-rain-is-on-the-way/
@@iforce2d "Figure 1" in that article really puts the amount of rain into perspective ... vs. average summer and vs. an average January (wettest month). So far outside of normal, by a few standard deviations. 🤯
This slope slide may cost more than runway if they will make a concrete retaining wall for example but i think they will use gabion wall after removing lose soil and refill and compact top soil
I haven’t checked with the Canberra guys yet, but do you do a speed vs power graph for finding best loiter and best range speeds? Should be almost as simple as graphing the power vs speed as long as vertical speed and longitudinal acceleration are almost zero. I’m interested to find this out if it works. Also, have they implemented automatic rudder to stop slip/skid?
@@iforce2d Thanks for replying. I haven’t got around to it yet either. I was just going to get the data file in excel and strip out power,speed, accel, vert vel, then strip off any accel or very speed over a low value then simply feed it out as an xy graph
Maybe a little less flap angle will cure the pitch sensitivity?....Have you tried balancing those big props?...🤔😳😏🇬🇧🇬🇧 I thought only we had shit weather....lol ..😏
If the grass is long the props are actually at some risk of breaking, but it's minimal. The original plan was to make a system that would stop them in the horizontal position, but then I couldn't be bothered :) I'm thinking I will put landing gear on sometime, so then it will not be an issue.
The strip is only a few meters wide so it would only shift rain by a little from the norm. If you mean it flowed all the way down like a waterslide, I doubt it. It was just an extreme amount of rain that probably would have caused this either way. Take a look at how things were not far away in Auckland: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rwrLxeO4Jmo.html
Can I ask a genuine question. Why don't modelers just use glass instead of carbon on planes? Never seen a reason to use cardon. Just use fiberglass so cheap and easy to make. Or just buy carbon and vacuum bag it. Those small sheets you pay $100 for you could make for $20, usually less.
98% of this plane uses glass, so I assume you're talking about just the motor mounts? Glass is fine where some flex is acceptable (ie. everywhere else on the plane) but carbon is better for something that is never supposed to deform. The strength to weight (and volume) of carbon is much better, and the motor mounts are a part that deals with strong torque and resonant vibration. For small parts the cost of carbon is not a show-stopper, I paid US$13.90 for that 3mm sheet (200x250), not $100 lol. For the cost and effort of making my own, and the quality of result achieved, buying is still the winner. 200gsm carbon cloth costs US$30 per square meter here and I would need about 12 layers to make a 3mm sheet, so the same 200x250 size would cost $18 just for the raw cloth, but you'd need a little extra around the edges, then you need resin, and there's no way you're gonna make something as nice as the bought one on the first try. The bought ones are +/- 0.1mm of the stated thickness which makes them dependable when you need pieces to slot together. Making your own would be sensible if you need larger sheets, or you're doing many repeated jobs over time, or precision is not so important.
That was the part where you were supposed to give your reasoning as to why things made of fiberglass will always sound like that. I didn't say you're wrong, I just said I don't see any reason.
