I run a Vulcan sprocket (referred to as "compensator eliminators" to amuse non-,mechanics, it's nothing else or different than a sprocket) and quite like it. As other compensators in my fleet age out they will be replaced with sprockets. Compensators effectively act as a solid unit above low RPM. HD are the only make attached to a rather silly idea which inherently has problems. You don't need a compensator as countless earlier HDs including many Ironheads demonstrate. The struggle to get durable compensators reflects that it's a bad idea in the first place.
My 07 Softail 96 ci stock comp has 23k on it and it's starting to make noise, so iam definitely installing the eliminator forsure, thank you for this video👍👍👍
Just for everyones info, there is a middle ground. Darkhorse Crankworks makes a Compensator that has nylon/rubber bushings to absorb the shock. Smoother than a solid gear and better built than HD SE. Installed mine on 2012 EG. Maybe see Kevin Baxter video, "Harley Compensators are Junk". Taps, what kind of clutch assembly is there and is that a Twin Power tensioner?? I get my noise from the manual tensioner I put in. Similar to HD without the spring auto-adjust. Thanks for the video.
Yes I an very aware of what john at DH. I spoke to john when they first released the comp in Daytona . And asked alot of questions about there comp and couldn't get some answers at the time . So we decided to wait and see how they would hold up in the market with bigger hp bikes.. I sub to Kevin Baxter and have watched his series of vids. very informative. I also sub to jeorge bryce at starracing. And have asked him his opinion on drivetrain components. As for my clutch set its oem clutch plates steel and fibers. With the aim variable pressure plate. Thanks for the feedback and questions. I am trying to document my journey with this bike. And possibly help someone avoid or steer them in a direction.
@@taps_1021 Thanks for the Sub. I will return. As you can see, I don’t load a lot of vids. When I do, it’s to help other bikers to avoid problems like you do. Keep documenting. My other goal is to produce vids as concise as possible while containing all the pertinent info for the job. I don’t do a lot of rambling. Glad you like Kevin’s posts. You can tell the guys who know what they’re talking about. I got to get some videos completed. Been sitting on ideas. The sky’s the limit. GL with the comp. Darkhorse has a winning product.
@@dougfresh1341 Dh is a great company to deal with. If you look at my profile and look under channels we sub alot of the same channels 😂😂 I was the winner of Shane's H2w giveaway last month . Keep pushing forward 🙏👍
I don't know about that in particular one but yes look up BDL compensators for, 03 I have an '05 and they make it with a 24 to getting installed this week. So psyched to get rid of that noisy GD old compensator with the shot spring packs knocking at startup
ive been using the 34 tooth solid sprocket with the hayden chain tensioner for a couple years with my 124 build and its not that noisy. i was thinking about replacing it with the 32 tooth sprocket to get more lower end torque as well
Why don't you go down to a 24th ? I have a 2005 Fatboy and it's a 24 tooth, stock sprocket. I'm going to install the BDL single sprocket compensator but it's going to be a 24 also
with a solid sprocket can you downshift coming into a corner to slow down to get in a lower gear,or will it put to much stress on your driveline. I have a 128 with welded crank,chain and beefed up transmission with cut back gears
Yes they will work. Another great part is the SE compensator just shimm it a few thousandth for a better lock up. I have ran both with great success. The SE is a wearable item like brake shoes. They need to be replaced . Milage may vary.
Just installed a 34 tooth solid sprocket on my 14 street glide. Pretty noisy I left the auto tensioner on and was wondering if it was necessary to put a manual tensioner on it, if that would quiet it down a little bit or not. I thought a auto tensioner would adjust it better on the fly if it got loose
The auto tensioner is abit noisy vs manual tensioner. The auto tensioner does work well. The manual tensioner needs to be properly adjusted because of the high and low spots in the chain. I would double check chain and sprocket alignment
@@taps_1021 Yeah I checked that one but I wanted to change the gearing as well as weight savings. Im kind of turning my bike into a weekend track bike. Im going to go through the whole thing here soon and put in a darkhorse crank, timkin upgrade, and larger bore cylinders. I havent decided on CI yet but something close to 143 or 151.
@@niceguyvince6490 if you are aggressive rider go darkhorse or se comp. I am currently running a se comp that we shimmed. 60 thousands for a better lock up. The se is a wear item so it's not gonna last like the darkhorse comp.
Hello! I'm from Brazil! could the replacement of the compensator for this solid system harm the engine or the gear shaft? Did you notice any negative changes with the system replacement?
I can have negative results depending on how you drive it. And if you have a welded crank. It's best to use screaming eagle compensator and shim it for a better lock up
Yes, your transmission can blow up (crack/break gears) if not upgraded to a stronger made transmission. This becomes especially true if you upgrade the engine to output more power and/or convert to a chain drive instead of belt. Traditional final drive belts and compensators reduce the shock to the driveline from sudden power inputs/pulses and therefore increase longevity and reliability.
There is an increase of tq in the lower end it will make t more responsive. But you will lose top end speed. If you go 32t vs 34t. I know darkhorse cranks has a great product also.
@@mv7401 compensator are a consumable . Your best bet is to use the SE compensator. Will it wear out and get noisy yes. But at the same time solid comps can create other issues. Another great option is the dark horse comp.
@Michael Nelson in my opinion riding style is important and hp output of the build. If your aggressive with the clutch you will break the next weak link in the drive train. If you ride it like you own it. you should be fine.
The bike is a 15 roadglide special. Some people dont like the noise it makes when the clucth is disengaged. In the vid I engage and disengage the clucth. It's a bit hard to tell but you can hear it slightly. My SE comp was starting to clunk at cold starts and I didnt like how it sounded. Hope that helps
@@taps_1021 I'm starting to get clunking when I'm engaging the clutch on my 10 Road King. I'm thinking the comp or the chain tensioner is the issue. Figure I'll replace them both while I've got the primary cracked open. Do you like the ride better with the comp eliminated?
@@MrMeatball052 if I was you I would go SE (screaming eagle comp) one of the reasons why I went solid is because I wanted a gear reduction. My gearing was really tall with my engine build. I wanted more bottom end thru the gears . Finding neutral is easier for me now. I think dennis Kirk had the solid comps for $130 or so. I would have used the stock adjuster. Mine didnt put to much tension on the chain. but since I went 32t I had to use the mechanical adjuster from twin power. I also re used the primary gasket three times. They want you to check it every 5k. Mine hasn't moved since 5k
@@taps_1021 What do you mean buy too tall? And by bottom end I'm assuming you wanted more pull in the lower rpms of each gear? I don't treat my bike like a performance bagger or anything like that. I'm just looking for something that will let the miles roll. I ride it like I bought it, not like I stole it lol
@@MrMeatball052 to tall example . In 6th gear at 80mph my rpms are at 2700. With the 34t . My sweet spot in the power is 3k to 5k with my build. So the 32t raises the rpms by 250 rpms . So now it's at 3k at 80 mph. So at lower speeds around town I dont have to go back and forth between gears I cant lug my engine because of the build . If you like more tq at the lower rpms 32t is the way to go . But if you like the way the gearing is stock stick with the 34t . The shifting is smooth and I cant tell a difference from stock.
Well there's pros and cons. While the 32t is very responsive and makes more usable power down low. I prefer my power on the other side of the power curve. Higher rpms. If I had the resources I would bullet proof the whole drive train. I am currently running the oem comp 34t screaming eagle.
