The single rod design compresses the neck wood when tightened. That is why they are more prone to cause neck twisting when tightened, because both sides of the neck may not compress evenly. A double rod compresses on itself instead of the wood and the force is only on the bow of the neck. I have not had any neck twisting since I started using the double rod system.
Catching up with your great guitar repair...such pleasure to watch guitar surgery. Neck reset is (to me) the hardest (maybe with bracing floating around ha). Never seen such a twisted neck. 😮 Thanks Scott for sharing your enthusiasm!🎶
Scotty - thanks for the spectacular save on my favorite acoustic. It plays wonderfully and has never sounded better. I am in the process of recording with it as part of my latest project. I will will send you a copy of the “finished product!”
You are an exceptional craftsman. Thanks for sharing your expertise with us. Wonderful work. I watch several really talented and excellent luthiers, and each one has their own techniques and styles. I have a twisted headstock ES335 style right now, and this video will be a real help to me. Thanks!
So it was being in the jig tht took the twist out . Iv got a similar situation with a lespaul . I may try the clamping thing . Its not terrible but tht keeps it from playing extra good . I learned some things Thk u sir ..
I did this same basic procedure recently on an Epiphone P90 Special that had an action problem. The neck was twisted slightly at the nut with the low E corner rising enough that the twist was easy to see, and the Low E string was gaining string height making the guitar harder to play. On the high E side, straight neck and no problem, with 1.25mm 12th-fret action height. I twisted the neck on a clamping jig on the bench and forced it back a little beyond flat to try and give the wood a new memory, and applied heat and kept the twisting force on it a couple days. This nearly straightened the twist when the neck was out of clamps and relaxed. I proceeded to level the existing tall jumbo frets, biasing toward the top left corner of the fretboard with my sanding beam to remove an extra few thousandths of metal from the frets there but barely touching the frets on the bottom right while just kissing the middle. Then I recrowned the affected frets and recut the nut slots a little on the left, bass side. So far the neck has stayed put and the sanding cheat on the fret levelling has the guitar playing better than ever. Let's see if it lasts.
@@harpethguitar You too! I kinda 'plek'd' mine by eye and feel. Works at least once, if the twist is a good bit less than your fret thickness. And if the neck is done twisting, problem solved unless/until you wear the frets out. I probably won't. So for a few hours work I get years of pleasure out of a new improved guitar I wasn't playing much.
No, thank you. I am subscribed to several instructional channels to help people become better Luthiers. When it comes down to it though, your videos are about the only ones I watch all the way through. IMO it is common sense to watch folks who instruct in a common sense manner and that IMO is you.
Another fantastic job! That was so impressive. Does the wood have a "memory" to some degree? Won't it want to go back to the previously twisted geometry?
@@harpethguitar Thank you kindly for the quick reply. I have a tele neck that is relatively new... however there's a bit of a ski jump at around the 14th fret or so, actually it's a dip from about the 11th and then starts ramping back up. The truss rod doesn't seem to do anything. I was thinking of heat and clamps. But not a refret. Thanks again for the mad skillz!! You are a blessing, Mr. Scott!!
Amazing! Priceless job is what you did here. What's the liquid you use for taking frets off of the fretboard (is any kind of "acetone" or "nitro dissolvent" suitable for that)?
