These are LED bulbs number 3 and 4 in my failed LED bulb teardown series. Initially one of the bulbs would light normally for two seconds and then go out (first one checked). Watch and find out what failed inside the bulb.
This is a superior video, with good editing, no awful music, intelligent analysis and an interesting topic (at least to me). I will look for more of his videos.
I reverse engineered this same circuit a few years ago. The controller is a triac, and it fires on each half of the power cycle (hence the bulb flashes at 120Hz). The bad thing about this circuit is that current is not constant, it is instead a very large discharge current for a short period of time. The average current is within the spec of the LEDs. However, the peak current spec is being exceeded by a large amount. By continuously blasting large currents through the LEDs, the weakest LEDs get overstressed and die. Since the LEDs are wired in series, it's the old Christmas tree lights syndrome where if one lamp fails, the entire strings goes down. It's a very lousy design which is why these lamps fail repeatedly. They are junk. Toss the entire lamp and get something more modern.
@@siriusleto3758 buy a good quality bulb. The best ones come from reputable brands and while still low in cost, are around $10 -$20 per box at my local big box store. Additionally, look at technical RU-vid videos where they tear them down.
You seem knowledgeable, can you design a light bulb that isn’t design to fail after a certain amount of time? Planned obsolescence should be a crime against humanity.
Thanks John for this display as these lamps seem to fail alot. From U.K and they are swapping to these to save cost..You went in detail and showed the problems with these lamps. Thanks Buddy
The manufacturers sell these at a much higher cost than the old incandescent bulbs and make claims that they'll last 10,000 hours, when in fact they often last only as long as the old style bulbs they replace. So much for never having to buy new bulbs again. LED bulbs require planned obsolescence, manufacturers are simply not going to sell anything lasting so long as that would certainly not be in their interest.
It started in the 1920s I believe, when tungsten bulb manufacturers all followed a secret rule to keep light bulb life at a profitable point. This was discovered when documents came to light after East Germany united with West Germany. The Light Bulb Conspiracy - Extended Version ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kdHIqa53-tY.html This one has subtitles for for the non-English interviews ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zdh7_PA8GZU.html
@@DataWaveTaGo get a copi of the resit and go bak to the store and get a new one on waranty.It is electronics pcb etc in it so the waranty should be the same as for a dvd player.To few are making use of the waranty.One reson they produce garbage straigth from factory
@@leohobbleohobb3781 Right. My Philips "20 year" LED failed after 4 years. I checked the warranty, it was not covered beyond 3 years. Great company, Philips, just great...
@@DataWaveTaGo Philips products made in Holland(Belgium? has had a much higher standard on components etc.If i se philips made in China or other very lowcost places that meke stuff for philips is not real philips we used to say back when people cared more about what they buy and it,s quality.
Excellent Video! Although some LED's maybe substandardly built, the ones that I have purchased have performed great. Having a small apartment complex I have switched every bulb to LEDs, and what a tremendous time saver.
Excellent failure analysis! I agree with your assessment - that brand is crap. But being the kind of guy who never likes to throw something away when it can be made to work a little longer, I'd jumper around the bad LED and put the bulb back together. It would also be a good experiment, seeing how long it takes for another to go bad.
@@roderickyoung1243 ya - forgot that - in india we have capacitor dropper type. And constant current types just hit the market. In case of constant current source, adding resistor won't help.
After having an impressive number of these bulbs suddenly stop working, including one about 15 minutes ago, I decided to search and see if anybody had determined the most common cause. Your video nailed it down. Thank you. I had incandescents last years for me. I can't seem to even get a year out of these LEDs today. Hate 'em.
Yeah, the situation is really bad. You could buy any incandescent bulb from any company and they all would last about the same, but with LEDs, it's all so wild - it could serve years (if you are lucky) or it could fail in a week or a month.
I love them....had 1 on my porch for almost 5 years.....no problem....was going through 2 regular bulbs a year before. Every bulb in my house except fridge and stove are leds. Never a problem
Anyone who even remotely believe that is totally ignorant how life span is/was calculated/represented. Even with the incandescent lamps life span was listed as so many hours of operation per day, not 24/7/365 continuous operation. Often people can understand what's clearly printed on the packaging. When I install the newer types of lamps I write the date on the base. I have had CFLs fail in three years and had some last over five years. I haven't been using LEDS long enough to get a date yet.. I do have one LED lamp that has become intermittent. Unless is starts to sound like it's arcing or smell I'm going to use it until it fails completely. Although I have confirmed it's still firmly screwed into the socket. Incandescent and old school florescent lamps seemed never to last as long as promised, but I never bothered to date record installation. That only became practical with the cooler operating CFL and LED lamps.
They are not claiming 8 years, in my experience, the average is about 8 months, about half are out in less than 4 months. Haven't had one make it to 2 years yet.
@@douglaspage2398 my ikea one is 4+ now, first one I bought. My Philips led bulb is 3+ years. Led bulbs are rated for hours and how often you can turn them on. All subject to environmental heat.
You should put the product name in the description so this video can be more easily accessible to people looking for a review on these particular LED bulbs. Also, it's valuable LED information promoting how important that LED s that fail can and should be recycled. Most of the parts can be in good working order and it be a small failure and for pennies fixable. In the right hand, this is reused, repurposed, &/ or recyclables materials that shouldn't be thrown away! Thanks for taking the time to share your experience and savviness on the matter!
agree, I bought the product although there is a bad review but the price is really really nice, i try to buy it , and it very surprise to me, The quality is really good. Luckily amzn.to/2Nz4IHe
Adam Savage likes to say that often times the only difference between screwing around and Science is writing stuff down. Nicely documented experiment. I've had some LED bulbs fail as well, And they were all from failed singular LED's inside the bulb. (several different brands). interestingly I have one Cree bulb that I can see a failed LED inside it but the light otherwise works fine.
efficiency is not the main factor if they are not getting enough airflow, I have made diy led lamps for 12years, Eg take a cheap 1$ brand overdriven led lamp and put a fan on them then, take a 4x priced brand one and I assure you the 1$ one will last longer
With critical analyses of bad products-- with actual evidence of brand failure-- RU-vid offers the video equivalent of Consumer Reports, a publication famous for naming bad products. That, alone, makes this video worthwhile, but it is also a logical presentation, with good audio and well-positioned camera views. For anybody with a curious nature, this strongly merits a subscription.
One thing I've not heard anyone mention; these LEDs, due to their shell, only project light in about 120-160 degree direction, similar to a floodlight. While the old incandescent projected about 270-330 degrees and the flourescent tubes about 270-300 degrees.
I also do this just for the fun and heck of it. If I may suggest, you can use an analogue ohmmeter to check each led if you set it on RX1ohms range. The voltage on the tester prods from the battery inside is just about sufficient to test an LED or a small CD motor. And by experience, damaged LED's in this kind of lamps, most of the time, very small black dots can be visible on the insides.
I've been using the $2.67 Walmart LED bulbs for a few years now and several of them being on 18-20 hours per day still work like new. So far only had one die after nearly 2 years and that is likely because it is outside where it gets the heat+humidity and sometimes below freezing, but still lasted longer than any other incandescent or CFL bulbs do outside. The constant Florida heat and/or humidity for 9 months of the year is the most likely culprit.
It's four years later... Are they still working? And do you use any of them in fully enclosed light fixtures? I'm just curious. ;-) I have some early Walmart "Great Value" bulbs that were more expensive. I think they were made by a company called TCL or TPA -- something like that. Anyway, they've been working for so long now that I can't remember how old they are. LOL! Only the cheap Walmart bulbs have failed for me.
These are likely heat cycling failures. They run them pretty hard with very little cooling and when turned on and off regularly the bond wires eventually break. We had a few Feit bulbs fail in our outside motion lights. I set them to dusk to dawn with the replacements and have not had any more failures for the past couple years. Many of the more expensive name brands like Philips and Feit tend to use higher binned LED chips and run them under spec to help make them last longer while producing less heat per chip and providing better cooling.
I noticed the LED disk only contacts the heat sink on the edges. Some of the better designs have the heat generating power components mounted in Epoxy inside the base.
Yeah, many LED seems to have a similar issue - overheating and horrible thermal paste. The LED are just driven too high, coupled with bad thermal dissipation. I was surprised by the super simple electronics on this one (i.e. 3 pin voltage reg) - what I have found is more like: BP2832K with an extra coil and diode.
Thanks for the video, does seem like a failure trend at this point. One of the big marketing strategies is that LED bulbs are going to last a lot longer. Guess they mean in a landfill.
The leDs fail because they run too much current through them, which makes no extra light, it just cooks them. Solution is to replace the current-setting cap with one 1/2 to 1/3 the capacity - uF-age.
As always it is down to production quality, of course cheap bulbs will not last. And sadly as time goes on companies know you are used to buying a certain type of bulb and they can just make them fail quicker. I have a bunch od old Phillips CFLs, some over 10 years, and a whole stack of one year old Phillips CFLs that are about to crap out... they know how to play this game.
Actually, at least to a point, increasing the current DOES increase the brightness. However, that reduces the life. Some LED systems have lives rated at 50K hours or 100K hours.@@GerardVaughan-qe7ml
Some fixtures are enclosed. It is necessary to put some sort of light emitter into them. In enclosed fixtures, incandescent lights can get to hot and damage the insulation on the wires unless there is an over-heat device to shut off the power. The life of CFLs and LEDs will be reduced, sometimes excessively so. So what are people supposed to do?@Klaa2
Jubeidono2012 yep it takes cock and balls to stick a screwdriver through the genie’s lamp, for fear of the giant deadly charged capacitor and Hg fumes hiding inside.
Only traitors disrespect our president, whoever she/she happens to be in office. Merely bringing up the president of the United States in a light-bulb video, is not the *brightest* thing to do, ya know.
Cause...the American people freely elected him to office in a stunning and unexpected huge electoral victory. But you already knew that. Maybe the real question should have been..."please explain why Pres. Trump's victory was such a surprise in the world that I operate in...". The answer to THAT question is really what you are seeking.
I diagnosed a failed eggshell once. Turned out to be a slight inconsistency in the calcite matrix, probably due to a genetic mutation. I had the calcite analyzed in a lab and found it to be 17% deficient of normal hydrogen bonding at the atomic level. The store refunded my 15 cents.
Thanks dude. I have had a Cree and GE LED fail, taken them apart but wasn't sure how to test. I'm a mechanical engineer and about all I remember from my one electrical physics and one EE classes are P=IV, V-IR, V/F=K, Ploss=I^2R and Vtotal = (Vleg)^1/3 !
Have you tried un-soldering a good LED from a bad light and soldering it into the bad spot on the other bulb? I think that may be interesting to see if a light can be recovered and for how long. :-) On another note I have quite a few LED's around the house that are years old, some of the first ones that came out, back when they were still pretty spendy.
Oddly enough, I just had my first LED bulb fail in my house this morning, 14 December 2017. It was installed March 2014, and was the old style with the large, finned metal heat sink between the base and the plastic globe. It also had all the circuitry inside potting material in the heat sink base, as opposed to directly on the board like newer bulbs, and it weighs at least twice as much as newer bulbs. I think the likely cause of failure was the fact that I had it installed inside an enclosed globe ceiling fixture, which they tell you not to do. I need to replace the whole fixture with an actual LED ceiling fixture, one of these days.
Well yes al Gore owns the new bulb factory I'm sure you did pay 69 or 99 cents for a bulb would go got every year, but let be progressivism at all cost! Now you pay 6 to 9 bucks for a bulb says lasts 5 years but only last 9 months and has mercury in them to boot better for the environment my ass libtards think backwards!
So if you take the LED out and connect the wires it would work, am I correct? I would have checked continuity on the circuit board first, but looks like you know what to look for when one does not work correctly.
You mean remove the bad led and short it's pads. Yes, correct. LEDs are current driven. The power regulator increase the voltage accross the led series until it measure a wanted current, in this case ~70mA. The lamp was flashing because the regulator was pushing the voltage to a level that the bad led was starting conducting but then the current was too high causing the regulator to shutdown to prevent damage. To be sure your lamp circuit is current driven do as the video and measure the current with the multimeter shorting one led. Take note and short 2 near leds. If the current is the same the power regulator is lowering the total voltage accross all leds to mantain the wanted current. You can short out the bad led and repair your bulb. Your led tv backlight circuit works the same.
As with most things in life, you get what you pay for. Buy shitty LEDs and get a shitty lifespan. I've had full Philips LEDs for ~3 years, no issues. They cost 3x what a chinesium bulb costs though
very well described on the problem. Some LEDs are SMD component where the solder leads are at the bottom which is not accessible from the top. Also, most reputable bulb manufacturers sand off the IC label marking so that you will not be able to find the replace parts.
I've used a bunch of different brands and designs of LED bulbs over the past three or so years. And almost all of my failures were sylvania bulbs. These look similar, not sure if that's what they are or not. But my sylvania bulbs all start flashing after a year or two, switching between normal brightness and maybe half brightness. I've had countless warranty replacements but the replacements start flickering too. I've probably had at least 10 sylvania light bulbs go bad. But every other brand I've used has been great.
As an aside, does anyone remember the round wafer type capacitors they used to sell for incandescent bulbs? They went in the bottom of the socket and were to supposedly smooth out the current and prevent surge which was the reason for premature failure (Hard on the filaments). I have to believe they worked because I still have some of the old filament type and the filaments look beat before they ever blow.
I've had LED bulbs mysteriously got out far too soon and wondered what the problem was. They are too expensive to keep replacing like the incandescent bulbs. Thanks for the video.
I saw that too about the light bulbs. Dirty bastards!!!!! Our Consumer economy means no quality products, they have to wear out so new ones can be sold
I had a similar experience with some store branded bulbs a few years ago when the LED craze was just taking off, when testing with low currents like a 9v battery and 1k resistor they all lit up fine (but dim). But when the driver tried sending the full operating current through them a bond wire would thermally expand and they would give that dim flickering effect. Since they were the larger round type of LED I ended up desoldering the bad ones and putting working LED's there from another dead lamp to create a working lamp, I did this until there wasn't enough working LED's left just to get my moneys worth.
Unfortunately, no one can claim 22 years of service, when the technology, didn't really exist 22 years ago. Most plastics start to break down in 10 years and become brittle. The 22 year mark may have been loosely based off the actual LED element. Who knows how the cheap plastic, glue, and cardboard that compromises the rest of it is really going to last.
Exactly! I have built-in LED lights in my RV, which is only a year old. There were two puck-style lights on the underside of a cabinet that overhangs the head of the bed, for reading. A push-in style switch in the center of the light turns them on and off. A few months ago the switch on one started acting up and had to be fiddled with to get it to work correctly. I got curious and pulled the cover off the light and tried to figure out what was going on. The small plastic base/housing of the switch where it mounts onto the circuit board had cracked and would not stay in place anymore, presumably due to heat, hence not allowing the switch to function properly. Eventually the switch fell apart right in my face. I replaced these lights with a different style quality light that won't fail due to design flaw and poor crappy plastic components.
The technology for LED's have been around since 1962, invented by GE and used as indicator light on numerous applications. GE has held the patent on incandescent bulbs since almost day 1; their patent is a "broad scope" patent that is restrictive to any "downstream development". For instance, if you wanted to make a light bulb it cannot be the same basic bulb "shape", they own that. It cannot use a filament, even if it's not Tungsten; they own the idea of ANY "filament". It cannot have a screw shaped attachment method, they own that. It cannot utilize any contact wires that come up and through a glass support inside the bulb, they own that. The only way to get into the light bulb market was to purchase the rights from GE and build it to their specifications. That's why the only other successful consumer light design has been Flourescent, because it incorporates none of those elements. Neon is impractical for homeowner consumer use. We could have had LED lights since 1970, but GE sat on the technology until they could extract every last cent out of incandescent by "planned obsolescence", i.e. making bulbs crappier so you'll buy more, and by announcing the roll-out of LED and eventual phasing out of incandescent years ahead of time to get consumers to "panic buy" in huge quantities in order to stockpile ahead of the changeout. Never buy "Utilitech" brand....they and other companies purposely use inferior components to raise the failure rate and increase revenue. I use Phillips and so far they seem to be good quality, no failure at all in 10+ years. And Yep, they cost more....but if they charged quadruple what I paid, it'd still be worth it.
I have a LED nightlight and after 5 years the plastic has turned brown in one spot. It’s on almost 13 hours a day and only shuts off on sunny days. I can foresee plastic cover failure long before the light source fails.
I bought about 30 LED bulbs for my house 4 years ago and have only had one fail. It also said "not for use in enclosed space" and I had it in a sealed hallway light so no blame there. The electricity savings is huge, especially in the summer when the AC doesn't have to work as hard to get rid of all that waste heat. LED bulbs are also subsidized in my state, so I pay about $1.50 for them to knock $10-20 off my monthly power bill. Absolute no-brainer.
Yeah, over the last 10 years, I’ve not yet thrown out a single led bulb. The older ones, that have dimmed over time (from being left on 24/7) have gone on to second lives as rarely used closet lights and such). I’ve not had a single outright failure (in contrast to the awful CFL’s which, while lasting longer than incandescent bulbs, seem to quit at the 4 year mark - I now have a pile of them awaiting proper disposal). As for LED versus incandescent, it’s no contest, LED bulbs are just better.
These LED- energy-saver-bulbs are generally overdriven, so they are brighter and last shorter. They also overheat quickly in that airtight plastic enclosure.
Oh definitely. And RF, too. I have a scar on my finger where I held the sharpened end of a pencil while pointing out problem areas to a tech I was teaching to repair diathermy units. Got a little too close to an unshielded RF field and it burned a neat little oval where the lead was touching my skin. Never went anywhere without my pocket protector including an all plastic coil adjuster from that point forward.
Pencil 'lead' is actually graphite. So conductive that early radio repair guys used to temporarily fix resistors by scribbling on them with a pencil. You're right: Not a wise choice for a pointer.
sam steel - ha! Maybe. I suppose, in an emergency, you could sharpen both ends, cut out the bad section of wire, shove the pencil into the composition and duct tape them. Might work. Sounds like that would be one of those 'life hacks' YT channels. Might even work as somewhat of an anti radio noise piece?
mc3lizard - Correct. It was just an unconscious choice of pointers at the moment, and I was using it when the unit was off, at first. My momentary lapse into idiocy. But the tech never forgot it (neither did I) so he never made that mistake, and that was the important part, b/c there were a lot of high voltage points in the power supply as well as the RF oscillator section. I'm glad those things are not in production anymore, never liked the idea of an untrained nurse just cooking muscle with what was essentially an open-air microwave oven just b/c a doctor prescribed it.
Interesting info! Always wondered what was inside one of those bulbs. Looks like you could steal good LEDs from a bulb to fix other ones. Of course, if the LEDs are substandard that repair would only last until another LED popped.
I had 3 fail after 2-3 days operation each. The bulbs were screwed into one of those photocell adapters that screw in place of the bulb.. and then you screw the actual bulb into the photocell. I noticed with an incandescent bulb, the bulb would begin to glow as night approached and got to full brightness once it became dark. I replaced the incandescent with an LED and noticed that the bulbs would not to the low glow light the original.. but would turn on fully a little later than when the original started to glow. I noticed all night a burning plastic smell. I thought it was the "new electronic" smell one usually detects when first turning on a new device. The first bulb lasted 2 nights. I figured I got a bad one so I replaced it with #2.. same thing.. then that was replaced with #3 and it also lasted only 3 nights. Each bulb had a burnt smell to it. I had put some of the same batch (same box) at another location controlled with a normal toggle switch. I never had trouble with those. I think the photocell is partially turning on and feeding low voltage to the bulbs.. and that may be what is causing the LED bulbs to burn out.
They were not dimmable. This led me to wonder how a photocell (really) worked. I thought they snapped off and on. The incandescent used prior would softly glow as evening approached.. that told me that the photocell was turning on gradually. Maybe I have a bad photocell and the combination with the LED's was not good. I never got around to putting a voltmeter on it so see.
Those older dusk to dawn things were able to only to shed their 5 watts in series with a 100watt bulb not a similar 5 watt load. The undimable LED's are subject to this. I damaged a LED on a socket of a double arm lamp with poor connections to the shell from years of getting cooked to a crisp.
"Non-dim-able" because dimmers involve sharp switching at 100c/s, and most led lamps use a capacitor to set the current, assuming a Sinusoidal voltage. The sharp switching will put huge current pulses through the leds at 100 ppsecond.
I flipped the switch in my workshop recently and one of the LED lamps was just flashing at a really high rate. This is a supposedly 'quality' LED lamp made by Osram. It has been in service for less than a year, and isn't used every day. The crazy thing is that the 'el cheapo' LED lamps that I have in other parts of the house are still going strong, and they were less than half the price of the Osrams.
Because they are a pain to open and might be a pain to put together too (espexcially after you've stuck a screwdriver through the bulb :D ) But of course that would give you a bit more lifetime until the next bum LED blows and then you have to do it again... not really worth it. I'd just desolder the LEDs and keep them for low current applications somewhere later.
That is what they count on, that you will by these Chinese junk LED bulbs over and over. The end result is you pay a lot more for a single bulb by buying it multiple times
These operate at high temperature, and are therefore more difficult to unsolder/solder vs. regular components. Not sure what formulation of solder is used, but I was not able to reattach an LED on another brand bulb myself.
Carl Mueller: It is the same solder, the issue is a giant heatsink in the back of the board that is sucking all the heat away from soldering equipment.
The ones i've tested are all running with the MCPCB at about 100-120C (in an open fixture, base up). If you're familiar with the junction-case thermal resistance of these packages, you'll know how far beyond absolute maximum the LED's are running. The ones in which i bothered to put a thermocouple on the caps had them at 90-100C or so. I have yet to find any consumer market LED lamps that I wouldn't expect early failure from.
Tech has moved quite a bit. Now you can get LED bulbs with chip on ceramic heatsink and the power regulator is segregated from the rest, stays cool. They are even rated for enclosed luminaries
I had one flickering mostly when you turn it on. It was a cheap utilitytech brand from Lowe’s. I’ve used several sylvania leds with no problem so far. I just bought a coupl Cree leds that seem bright but have a weird delay when you tube them on. I’m assuming it’s intentional for some reason.
Great video! I don't think it will change anything I do with LEDs, but your expert analysis was not only entertaining but welcome knowledge. I think that many "Made in China" issues really come down to contract issues with the U.S. firms that place the orders. In setting up any production assembly line, there are going to be mistakes that lead to product quality variations in the statistical aggregate. Tightly run corporations write their specifications to include quality control analysis and remediation as part of the contract package. Those that don't, end up with runs that have a higher percentage of faulty product, because the manufacturing company will do only what is necessary to fulfill the contract. Essentially, that is how Apple can use China to make tons of complex iPhones with very little quality backlash, while relatively simple light bulbs utilizing LED technology might have a failure rate approaching 10%.
Herbert A lot of the Chinese companies are deceptive when it comes to quality. I retired from a company that wanted to lower our costs so we began trying various Chinese suppliers for our raw materials. We gave them our specs for particle sizing and chemical analysis. We requested a C.of C. along with a sample of each lot we were buying for testing and trials. Their certs met our specs and when we tested the sample in our labs it verified the certification papers. We instructed the company to send us the 10,000 lb lot. Upon receiving the material we sampled and tested the shipment. This time it failed chemical analysis so we sampled another container and retested plus we sent a sample to an independent lab. Again the material failed both labs. We were able to make the material work and we contacted the supplier. They were apologetic and promised it wouldn't happen again. We placed a second order expecting things to be different. They sent us a cert and sample from the new production lot. Oddly the test results reported on the cert were identical to the previous cert. The only difference was the lot number and date. We tested the pre-shipment sample and it met our specs but the main shipment failed our tests. This happened with each shipment they sent us. We came to the conclusion the Chinese company was sending samples from the same supply of material that met our specs along with a copy of the original cert but they assigned a new lot number and date matching the new shipment. This happened with several other Chinese suppliers so needless to say we continued buying raw materials from our European supplier.
I worked for a company that manufactured a component for a Chain Saw manufacture. We supplied it at $.07 each. They wanted us to cut the price more. So we did. We just sold them the test reject lots. What ever happened to McCullough chain saws anyway?
They always pass higher current in order to make them bright which just making them pack up . If you limit the current by 50% they would last posibly 200% longer
I own a former elementary school and installed 40 Uniden 60 eq bulbs from Lowe's that run just above $1/bulb in multipacks and have had a total of ZERO failures in 4 years now.
I believe the LED's are being purposely overpowered and that is what causes them to fail. The math doesn't lie. Find and open bulbs from several manufacturers and compare the circuits. I think we'll find that some of them are better designed.
Ron I agree, they don’t like the fact they can last a very long time. The heat off of these bulbs alone have been questionable. I have a 100w for the garage, Lowe’s bought, and it has to be 200f after 30min on.
5 лет назад
There are approximately a thousand people who actually gave this video a thumbs-down. That proves to me that the Lightning Science company had most of their employees deliberately give this video a thumbs-down out of anger for exposing the truth of their fraudulent business practices. I attempted to contact their company via their email address located on their website at lsgc.com My email was instantly returned to me as being undeliverable.
Gábriel Priòre it could also just be people working the algorithm to improve their recommendations by telling RU-vid I don’t like this content as I did... It was informative and I now know why the one bulb in the kitchen flickers but this was a strange recommendation that I want less off (plus creator get interaction points on his content)
5 лет назад
@@Magtranya Are you kidding me?!? Is that actually the reason videos have thumbs-downs? That is not the proper way to change your video recommendations. When I see a video that I am not interested in, I click the small dots on the side, then click not-interested. I have never needed to give any video a thumbs-down to change my video recommendations!
@ I have not thumbed down the video, but I guess some people did that because of the picture quality. Only 720p and not the cleanest 720p I've seen either, if you're sitting 50cm from a 43'' 2160p screen, it's just not pretty. There are other channels that dismember/analyse failed Led bulbs, eg. BigClive, his vid's are of much better picture quality.
This is EXACTLY what I’ve been experiencing! “Dead” LED bulbs that briefly flash on when they’re turned off. Other times, when they’re turned on, they may seem dead or super dim for a time, and then suddenly turn on again later. The voltage in my home is running at 124-125V though, so perhaps that’s an issue ?
Recently I was building something that used two led bulbs and I removed the covers to fit them into the space I had. Because it was covered it was fairly safe. I noticed one of the bulbs was a bit dimmer and soon realized that a number of the leds were missing, quite a few in fact, and the circuit board just had empty spaces. I assume it was bad quality control or deliberate cost cutting. I wouldn't be surprised by anything, these days.
I've had some fall like this too. But never had any philips or panasonic bulbs fail, and I have been using them since 2012. The old ones used to be really heavy, but the new ones are really lightweight. The ones that fail are also really lightweight.
Fantastic video! I almost jumped out of my chair though when you didn't test that one LED the other way around as well ... I have a video on my channel (or will ? not sure I uploaded it) with one having oddly placed LEDs all around
Many thanks - told me what I suspected! Now here's a thought. Don't bin them. Cannibalise a good LED, resolder it and get one good lamp - but put a bigger resistor in and drive them less hard. It will be dimmer, but I wonder by how much..... Slightly off topic is how annoying the so-called dimmable ones are - they don't dim much! I always thought it would be possible to have a sort off coiled bar-LED that reacted to voltage. The more you inputted, more of the LEDs would light up, rather than the 25% (I guess) difference that occurs with each LED being underdriven.
