Two John Deere Lawn Mowers - Cranks but Won't Start - Trade up Series 

for someone that says he's not a mechanic ,you do very well.

Captain have you ever noticed no matter how many work benches you have they always seem to become storage shelves 🤣great video 👏👏👏👍👍👍

Cap’n I love your new lawn swamp buggy… That’s a real find! Here’s a few things you might check to get the other one going… Is the cup holder drain plugged? Has the windshield washer fluid been rotated? Is it missing the pine tree air freshener? Is the antennae mount loose? Is there too much slop in the four wheel drive linkage? Are the mower blades on upside down? These are all things that a guy wouldn’t notice up front so feel free to use this checklist as you do your next deep dive!

Pull the flywheel Cap'n. Those keys look okay from the outside but, they have a tendency to partially shear and it is not visible unless you remove it. They are made of soft aluminium. I've replaced dozens on those Briggs engines.

I always try starting fuild first, then if it doesn’t pop off that then you go deeper into it. That broken hose to the fuel pump would definitely make it not run.

On the carburetor...there is a black plastic square piece with 4 small holes through it and held on with one screw. Take that off and look at the gasket under it. They like to swell up and it will block those small holes off. If thats not it I would say it still has to be something within the carburetor.

I think you’re on your way to being a Master Mechanic, Mike! I’m sure you’ll get it going.

Any new mower that will not run. Check oil, check fuel, pull air filter, shoot starter fluid into air horn, try to start. If it pops and runs for a second you have fuel trouble. With this simple process you have eliminated spark, valve, timing, compression and a hole lot of time.

You might have done this off camera but try a little starter fluid to completely eliminate the carb. I was chasing my tail in an old JD 335 and had cleaned and rebuilt the carb and it was getting fuel to the bowl but I could only get it to run on starter fluid. Ordered a $25 cheapo clone carb and it fired right up

I also suspect the flywheel key you can only see the top of the key it might be sheared halfway it doesn't take much stay safe have fun

i would certainly reset the valves. the solenoid is a fuel shutoff to prevent backfires when u turn the mower off. i would visibly watch it operate out of the bowl to insure it function. glad to see u plug the fuel pump back in. it runs off of crank case vacuum and will not push fuel uphill unless it has it. also remove and clean the jets in the carb. you'll get it running i'm sure of it.

👍 I'm doubting it's the valve clearance. My guess is a stupid seat safety switch or similar gone bad. But spark and gas should = varooom. Good luck. Did you say sailboat?

I always prefer to wash what I'm working on before servicing, but I also know that looking it over first can be very informative as to what might be going on with the equipment. I inspect then wash for that reason

I’d give it a shot of starting fluid & see if it even tries to go. Valves would have to be pretty far off for them to keep from starting & should show in compression test. Might pick up a cheap spark tester that goes in-line between the plug & wire to make sure spark isn’t dropping out while cranking.

Common problem with the twin Briggs engine is valve lash

Despite cleaning the carb, I always do well ordering a clean new one. They are cheap, and the old ones warp and clog in places that can't be cleaned. 75.679% effective. GL Captain!!!

I see that you are mechanical minded and have a lot of common sense. Love it

I really like working on equipment. You have spark, fuel and we know you have air because the compression is good. Even if your valve settings were a little off, you have a wet spark plug and you are getting compression, so it should fire. I really can't wait until you figure out what is wrong. This would be a learning experience for me, too.

I have never had good luck with twin cylinder Briggs and Stratton engines coils and carburetors good luck captain great video

"Check THAT off the list boys!" 🤣 That's my kind of check list.

Hi Cap'n. If the valve clearance was too tight,( non existent ) , the valve would be open when it should be closed, and that would show on the comp test. If it was too big it should still run but rattley. Must be fuel or spark . Check those HT leads again.Or squirt some juice in the cylinder and try that. Good luck.

Think your right with your feeler gauges, every thing else checks out, the only other thing that might be an issue is your valves might need cleaning. Both mowers though look to be in good condition, they look like they are all there. Your like me, in my workshop I have a place for everything, only sometimes the places aren't always their!🤗😂

Many people can purchase equipment but fail to understand that everything needs maintenance to remain viable to keep operating up to date. I purchased a new vehicle and keep the maintenance up to date. At the 360,000 mile marker all I have spent for maintenance was grease, oil, air filters, tires, and prestone plus two batteries. I wanted to shoot for 500,000 miles but black ice put an end to the Blazer. I have always been well aware to the value of keeping maintenance up to date. You explain what a mower needed to keep the equipment maintenance up to date. 👍🏼

High speed Captain,getting the jobs knocked out. 👍🐝🌞

I've been waiting for you to get back on the trade up series to fund other projects. It's right up there with what Darren Mustie1 does. He's lucky that in his area people are allowed to leave free piles roadside for him and others to pick up, fix, sell and fund parts from. Plus yard sales, repair swaps for stuff to fix and flip.

Love me an excellent backyard mechanic video interspersed with just enough snark to have me laughing. Keep ‘em coming Captain.

I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the key in the flywheel. It was ever so lightly sheared. A mere indent in the key. New key, ran like a champ. Good luck! Great video Mike! Lee

Enjoyed watching and listening to you trouble shooting the mower issues, thanks for the ride along sir.

Carbs always get me sppoked. I find it hard to put them back together correctly. Sometimes I draw a little sketch when I take them aprt. Then I have something to help me when I find an extra screw leftover. I did the same when I had a Gunsmith Shop a while ago. All parts of a rifle were laid out on a clean white towel in the order I took them apart. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy ! As they say !

hello from the Netherlands . thanks for the video Mike . Sincerely Hollandduck

Another entertaining AND educational video from Capt. K!!!!!

The intake manifolds tend to crack where they are sonic welded together. Check the intake for warpage or separation.

One thing about returning machines to good working order is the the process of discovery and learning. Fun to watch you working out what is wrong - fearless Captain Kleenman who never gives up.

You always get my attention by the stuff you work on. I love repairing small equipment like you. Keep the great videos coming, enjoy watching.

I like to wash things before I work on them. Good work.

Thanks for the laugh Mike. Keep smilin

You're completely random and crazy. I like that in you. 2nd, I would never pressure wash the mower. I don't own one. Carry on!

On the L120, check your push rods. I had a B&S engine like that with similar symptoms. I checked the valves and they were out of adjustment. It still didn’t start after setting them. Turned out they were out of adjustment due to a bent pushrod.

We had a rear engine like that when I was a kid so much fun playing in the mud.

You’ve gone to parts I’ve never been in for this video. I appreciate all your thought processes. I’m not sure what you missed. Seems like you covered all the bases.👍

Some newer mowers have a compression release on the engine that kicks in when you are starting it but it disengages when the engine is turning fast enough. I watched a video where a guy had that problem.

I'm glad that diaphragm fuel pump didn't need prime, or at least the starter was enough to get it primed. Last summer I had one that the starter wasn't generating enough pressure to do it. I squirted gas into the intake with a syringe to get the engine going and keep it going long enough to get the pump primed.

Been my experience with those mowers is they will not start without choke. Also, when checking compression, have the throttle open all the way.

Awesome video again. Thank you for putting a smile on my face this Sunday morning!

Captain goes Baja-ing!!! Chelsea shaking her head watching you😂👍🇺🇸

You are so fortunate to have all these knowledgeable people offering their experienced suggestions. Good luck👍

yep that is why the fuel pump does not work, crankcase pressure/suction operates it

I suggest checking the choke position and what position the throttle has to be in for starting.

hello mike its is randy and your video is cool & super cool & lawn decking paint , thanks friends randy

Great video. WOW! that black hose that they used for fuel line is water hose. you have two good mowers there. i think that you are right about the valves needing adjusting. :)

All the tractors and my truck and everything I own was bought with money I made fixing and selling stuff on marketplace.

Check for plugged exhaust .

Nice work on those Deeres. I always thought those little rear engine ones were neat. On your L120, I pulled an almost identical critter next off the cylinder head if the LA135 I bought. I’m always amazed when I see an L/LA series with an intact hood, they always seem to be missing down here in the south. Looking forward to seeing you do the valves on the 120, I’ve got to do the same on mine and I’m pretty sure they’re the same engines. Also, I might be saying something you’ve already found, but Deere is great with their online parts catalog for looking up parts. Even if I don’t get it from Deere, because that green and yellow box definitely carries a premium, having the P/N is really helpful.

Dude your hilarious. I do love all comments and talking to the camera like we are there. its great. i really enjoy it. keep up the good work.

thank you for a very educational video.

My husband said there is a cheap way to check cam lobe by covering air intake with your hand when starting. If it starts but revs down when you take your hand away it has a bad lobe.

Well Played.....always enjoy!!

Hey captain hope you have a wonderful and blessed day today....keep up the great content 😁😁😁

You are progressing well and learning. Good troubleshooting taking place on both of these machines. We appreciate the content.

Wow that is a gully washer washing the Subaru, LOL. I wish they still made small riding mowers like that with just a single blade. It would be far more practical for my yard than the 2 bladed rider I have now. So many trees in my yard. Makes using a full size double bladed rider a pain in the butt. That was some really sketchy weather whipping them trees around. Glad you had the common sense to stay out of the woods. 👍

Those GX75’s are excellent little mowers. Lately me and my dad have been restoring old Swisher Big-Mows.

Trickle a little gas in the carb. If it starts on that you still have a fuel problem. You have compression so valve adjustment would not keep it from running.

At least the Subie got a wash…. Another fascinating video Mike

I love how you pre address the “should do it this way” comments 😂

“there is a comment section below, if you wanna say you’d pressure wash it over before, feel free to leave that opinion there” 😂😂😂

Maybe a clogger exhaust. Mud dabbers

Double check tour info on the valve lash adjustment because if i remember right its .005 intake and .005 exhaust on twin cyclinder briggs. Its .004 intake and .006 exhaust on single cylinder briggs. Thats with either having ohv.

Pretty relevant to a situation I just experienced with a small motorbike engine. Had fuel and okay compression not great. Spark plug was sparking so I ruled that out early. Adjusted valves no good. Replaced piston rings and head gasket. Got the compression up but it still wouldn’t start. Tried everything I could think of twice over a period of 3 months. Turned out to be the spark plug. The old one was sparking but obviously not well enough for it to fire. Changed it out. Started straight away. Lesson learned. Start simple and don’t trust a visual spark test. Thanks from Australia love the content.

Great channel. Great video. Thank you Capt. 👍

You have compression on both side the do not need adjustment, it sounds like the plugs maybe firing under compression, I have new that where bad right out box.

I’ve owned and worked on a few of those mowers. Definitely try the starting fluid others have suggested. I’m pretty sure that mower didn’t have a fuel filter originally, so maybe some of that gunk is trapped in the carb prior to the filter install, never know. Just in case your carb rebuild missed something the mower will fire on starting fluid.

There is a possibility that the exhaust is plugged up. You know the 4 stroke engine has Intake, Compression, Power and Exhaust. Any of the 4 can cause a engine running problem. I do believe I saw a test with starting fluid to see if it would at least pop. I do really like the channel and keep up the great videos!

I prime the carb every Spring to keep from grinding on the starter.

Hay Mike! Have you ever watched a RU-vid guy: The Hole in the Water . He diagnoses JD 755's and the 800 series tractors, then takes them apart and puts them back together again. He's an unsung hero on RU-vid. He knows his stuff and he only has 325 subscribers. Why don't you give him a watch and then give him a bust. I think all you subs would gain by giving him a watch. Thanks, Lee FYI: Remember I have both a 770 and a 790. I love'm both!

Valve setting’ my first step on any mower engine.😊

Glad your keeping the little guy, those are nice machines

Excellent as always Mike 👍🇺🇸🇬🇧🇺🇸🇬🇧

Pull the flywheel....just in case.

Yea, I cranked mine last yr and slung a few critters. lol

Don't forget on the 75, like other Kawasakis (and some Kohlers and other engines), you check oil level WITHOUT turning threading the dipstick in. There's a sticker with illustration on the engine. Usually if you just pull it out and it reads right at the top of Full, it's actually right at the Add mark when checked correctly.

Howdy Captain

Same trouble with gt235 saw a video said check electric control board under dash . If jump started usually gets fried .

The First thing I do with a non running engine is to squirt a little 2-stroke gas mix down the carburetor. If it fires up for a couple of seconds, you'll know that the engine is capable of running and your chasing a fuel issue. Likely The Carburetor still has issues. The Fuel Pump Impulse/Vacuum hose is probably a Briggs & Stratton #694000. Always look forward to your video's!! Best of Luck.....................

Always a pleasure to watch!

Keep up the great work love your videos thank you

Love watching you play with machinery great information good learning tool for people keep it up cheers Jill Australia 💕🐨

Always enjoy your wit and you were entertaining ways. I was about to comment with some advice on small engine repair. But I figured that you are probably done with it by the time this video came out and why not let you learn the same way I did always better do-it-yourself and you will learn the best way.👍👍🥇

Definitely check the valve clearances as its a known issue. Cam has a retracting compression release for starting. Too tight a setting and it doesnt operate correctly. I've checked flywheel as you did on those briggs intek in the past only to be caught out. Briggs used an aluminium key which only lightly distorts but can throw the timing also so worth pulling the flywheel and cleaning the magnets (inspect to make sure rivets are not damaged allowing movement) and the coils plus regap to ensure best possible spark. I've no doubt you will get it running sweet.

My boys Craftsman mower has the same engine in it, went through same problem with fuel pump pressure hose being bad and having to replace all the fuel lines as the old ones broke down and clogged up the carb. In the end had to mess with the valve lash and after that she worked great. Would definitely say you're headed in the right direction there. Best of luck Capt. Look forward to the next one, keep up the great work my man 😁 👍

Awesome work, great to have the trade-ups back, stay safe in the storm!!

Clean the mag and coil pickups and reclearence

You are a madman....I just Imagine your wife looking out the window watching you talking to yourself while driving through puddles.... And her pondering the future 🤔.......👍😉

Interesting video - and weather! Thanks for the great content as always. 👍

‘Gleeming’ with the Kleeman!! Morning Cap!

Every flat surface in my shop is full of something. Once a year I or when I get in the mood I clean up.

I’m not a mechanic but I have seen a bent blade keep a mower from starting. The bent blade was spinning freely but was throwing the crank or something out of balance. The guy put on a new blade and it fired right up.

Great educational video there Mike. Thanks for sharing.

Find yourself a 12 volt spark plug cleaner. They work great and save tons of money on buying new spark plugs. I got mine from JC whitney 30 years ago and still using it. Thanks for the videos

Look at the blades

I would take the flywheel off and check the key. I think it's bent but not sheared. That's my commit that you asked for.