They make a wire tool with a ring in one end and a tiny screw in the other end to screw into top seal to extract it and to put the new one in , most of the time they come with 2- piece seals
I'm doing this now on a Chrysler 440, engine still in the car. Can I install the two seals flush with the bearing cap and block? I understand it will seal better when it's offset, it's just a struggle laying on the floor and the bearing cap already in place. I figured I can put some sealer on the ends(?) instead of having to worry about the seal popping out or getting misaligned when I install the cap.
I have a 78 caprice 350 motor im sure the rear main seal is leaking i dont want to pull the motor out of the car to do the seal can i do it in the car ?
Yes you can. However you must. Unbolt the motor mounts and loosen the trans mount, then use an engine crane to lift the assembly high enough to remove the oil pan, then unbolt the rear main cap, remove the half of the seal that's in the cap and use it to push the seal half that's in the block out. Then lube the new seal with clean engine oil on the lip only and push it gently but firmly into the groove of the block until 1/8" is showing above one side. Then install the other half into the main cap living the lip only and making sure the ends of the seal line up perfectly, add a tiny amount of anerobic sealer to the mating sides of the seal only. Retourque the main cap in steps then put your oil pump and distributor drive back in, use a new oil pan gasket preferably the 1 piece neoprene style and install your oil pan being extra careful not to over torque the bolts. Let the motor back down, and align your motor mounts rebolt them up tight and also your transmission crewmember mount✌
You must not have dealt with an old seal, they can be very stuck in there behind the crank and the only option is to remove the crank unless you’d like to score the block up
You don't show where the two black rubber pieces go? They sort of look like a comma in 3-d. What are they and where do they go? There are the 2 halves of seal, 2 plastic sleeves, and 2 blue side rail straight seal pieces. what about the 2 gray rubber pieces that look like commas?
Where you put the sealer on the cap would not keep oil from getting out of the engine. The oil will now follow that straight to the back of the block and still leak
I know what you're saying, but I think where he put the sealer fills the 90 degree "corner" which creates a natural gap where oil can find its way outside the engine.
I’m having to reinstall the rear main oil seal on my ford 460 which is in my 32 ft R.V I’ve pulled the transmission and had to raise the engine up to make clearance to the rear of the oil pan I then pulled the rear cap ! My question is how would you go about extracting the top seal is there a way to do this ? Also I’ve only been able to take off only the rear cap but haven’t been able to remove the oil pan entirely so I’m not able to loosen the other crank bolts only the rear !
Garage Gurus That’s odd...:.loctite 518 is a red and white container while your video shows a permatex anaerobic sealant. But there are 3 different kids of permatex sealants.
@@adventuresoffinnandfarley8858 In the video, we used Permatex 51813. We do also use Loctite 518 as well. They essentially have the same material properties. They are both anaerobic type sealants.
