Two-stroke tuning secrets: KTM powervalve set-up 

Short, sweet, straight to the point and I learned something, cheers mate 🇦🇺

Brilliantly explained and nice riding style! Thanks for the video

Thank goodness - a sensible video on PV's - thanks!

This is the beast moto channel on RU-vid. 💯

I’ve got a 2017 sx 250 and I absolutely love the red spring

JD aftermarket shim behind the red spring 1 1/2 turns in , power Band smooth with out the abrupt power curve

Good video. Trying to tame my insane old 300 down will try green

Thank you

FOR THE PEOPLE WHO’S FINGER SLIPPED AND THEY ACCIDENTALLY BOUGHT A WEAK ASS BABY BIKE (250-300 XC-W/EXC/TE): KTM’s “enduro” bikes are just the xc/sx bikes with a hell of a lot less hp, but you probably already noticed how sluggish your bike is so you don’t need to know the details. These are all of the mods you need to make your motor run right: 1) sx head and cdi. This alone will give around 8 hp boost, which is a butt load for how much it costs, and if you can only afford one then get the head. Buy them from rocky mountain atv [Just find the stock parts from the ktm 250sx] and if you have a 300 then buy the cdi from slavens racing [ lowered rev limit for 300 piston ]. Then power gains are immense and it boosts across the entire rev range. More bottom and top but especially mid range. Also makes to bike tractor even easier through tough stuff. 2) pipe and reeds, they aren’t going to give you a huge boost on the dyno, but the reeds give some throttle response and top end and the pipe broadens the powerband. 3) Carb settings [obviously doesn’t apply to tpi bike] cheapest is to try jetting it, but the mikunies are terrible and it is really difficult. Still on the cheap side would be a jd jetting kit which helped my bike a little, but the optimal way is to swap to a lectron or smartcarb. Lectrons are supposed to come tuned from the shop but I had to adjust mine a good bit to get it running right, and I don’t have any experience with a SmartCarb but I assume it is similar. Whatever you decide to do just make sure the motor isn’t too rich because that makes it load up and bog out. 4) power valve settings. The guy in the video is really knowledgeable and I’m sure his recommendations are good for the sx bike, but the pv settings are completely different in the enduro bikes. Mess with the settings and use whatever feels best, but for those who want the most out of their bike use the red auxiliary spring and turn the brass screw 2 turns in from all the way out. This will make the bike have the most mid to top without losing any bottom. There is an entire ThumperTalk thread on this, but the conclusion is that those settings are most powerful and snappy overall. Good luck with anything you decide to try and happy riding!

Thanks for the video! Although, it would have been helpful to have shown a torque curve comparison graph.

I've yet to have a chance to ride one of these newer ktm 2 strokes, I have always been a 4 stroke guy, but like the idea of the luggability of the 2 strokes and the lightness of the bikes. Does the green spring give it a linear feel like a 4 stroke, or is it still definitely a 2stroke

Where are the graphics from?

Hi, you said you are at 1.5 turn, but do you know the stock setting number of turns? And are you running the green spring with the 1.5 turn on 300 or 250? Thanks.

Hello good video ! What is your jet setting for 250 sx ? Thx

Great video!

Great video. Very useful

Does anyone know what bars he’s running, 997?

What gearing did you guys end up running?

Where can i find those graphics ??

completle flush is it the same as all the way out ?

What spring would you recommend for the 150?

you use 999 bar?

"Power valves" are bullshitted about too much, they are exhaust port blockers, the cylinder and pipe is designed around the exhaust port not being restricted. I've tried finger controlled "power valves" on RGV250 road bikes, a RM250 MX and a Yamaha GP1200R jetski . The Jetski wants the valves open for everything other than when you're cruising home exhausted at 3500 rpm, it makes a slightly smoother exhaust note. For the RGV250's it was absolutely awesome, the valves wanted to begin to open at 8500 and by 9000 they were fully open, it took five minutes to get the hang of pulling them on, it became second nature, you could even feel the lever would start to go light just near 8500....you could even force the valves to shut under hard braking or put on more return spring tension, they were awesome, i'd be dead if still riding them. For the RM 250, just like this bike, i knew the finger lever (just a stubby second clutch lever using the same but longer pivot bolt) would be too hard to control but it was purely for the experiment. The valve may as well be open, a top rider on a fast track shouldn't realize the power valve was stuck open, my tip would be the better you are with the lightest spring the better you must be flogging it, you are just delaying they pipe coming on song. I could ride the RM with the valves stuck shut and it worked as expected down low but could still kill you, if you rode with them stuck open it was a bit of a dog down low but quickly turned insane. The rev range of the RM to RGV is basically half, the RGV needed to be ridden in traffic and twisties, so that's why the were vital, for this bike, the lighter spring is proving the engine is ready to transition to it's pipe designed rev range, it is just basically making the engine de-tuned for a while until the rider is ready. As this video describes, there are just too many variables between rider, bike and track to ever try to make definitive statements about where they "should open". MX power vales are designed to "blow" the valve open, just before the engine needs it, that's why adding the resistance of the spring can give absolute perfect tuning to a riders preference.

You can haul on that 250

What model Ktm?

why you run dep tho