I have tankless water heater which needs minimum of 0.GPM to get triggered. What pump should i get? Got Water heater in basement, powder room at ground level, 2 full washrooms upper level, with no dedicated return line for hot water. 2000sqt townhome.
So glad to come across your video. The explanation & visual hookup of the crossover valve was great. It would be great if you answered some of the posted questions, as some of them are the same ones I have.
What I dont understand is, on a retrofit. How can adding a crossover for the farthest sink, affect the other sinks on another level the same distance away. Example. Upstairs in my house, the farthest sink away is the kitchen. Downstairs, its a bathroom. So how can adding one of these make hot water arrive faster at 2 separate locations? And as well, do the same for other fixtures in the house. I have tankless as well, I dont want my tankless system to always be firing to have an endless loop of hot water running back and forth in the lines all day and night. And I dont want hot water at my kitchen since, since there a T that goes to my fridge to make ice. Every line for hot and cold are seperated in my house from a Hot and cold manifold with each line having its own shut off. So I dont see why having something at a far fixture will give me hot water instantly at every tap or tub. Unless I am missing something completely.
I've been researching this and it seems logical that only the sink where the crossover valve is installed will get hot water quickly. You can install a crossover valve on any amount of water lines to sinks etc but that gets kind of expensive. I have a one story house and my thought is you'd have to open the sink with the crossover to get hot water and then shut it off and go to any other fixture like shower/tub or sink in another room. With a return line it solves all those problems. I checked on a tankless water heater with a recirculating pump integrated into the system and as far as I know you can't have the pump come on only when the water heater is running, so no flow valve on the pump. It has to be programmed but you can set the temperature on the pump to recirculate the water when the hot water line temperature reaches the temp you programmed into the pump. I think you save on water but you lose on gas and electricity with a recirculating pump so thats probably a wash. Honestly I don't think it's worth it unless you have a family and water is being used quite a lot then the convenience of instant hot water makes sense. For sure the return line is the way to go without a doubt if its possible. Good luck. I still haven't decided what to do.
@@aljay2955 I think in the long run, its going to stay the way it is. I cant have a return line, and like you said, Ill save on water, and waste money on natural gas and electrical. Be nice if it wasnt PEX lines as they lose heat a lot faster than copper. Kitchen sink takes awhile, but its for washing dishes mostly anyway, so really you turn it on and let it run until its filled. Convenience is nice, but I grew up having to heat water on a wood stove, this sort of thing is so minor, unless it cost me like $50 to solve the problem, seems to be a lot of work and hassle.
@@virgil3241 Yeah I agree. When mine quits working then I'll opt for one with a built in recirculating pump. There really is no perfect solution to heating water for a house but I think the tankless water heater is an improvement over the tank water heaters especially for those without a family.
