HOW TO: Get Hot Water in Seconds 

Good question. I am guessing a water filter on the fridge may take care of this.

Say timer is set for 630-640 I’m not using the faucet what happens to the pressure when the line water reaches temp build pressure bust a line or what happens that seems better to manually turn pump on prier to use once u open the hot tap turn pump off but how does this way work with the pump on a timer

Was thinking that myself, why not just have the valve dump water into the drain?

@@PD-yd3fr Because dumping in it the drain is exactly what you're trying to avoid. The idea of this is to save time AND water.

Can you hear the water running through the pipes like when a faucet is in use? That would suck

So then, warm drinking water, ummmh. Like robbing Peter to pay Paul.

I deactivated the pump and you are right. I want to take the recirculating valve out. Is that easy to do myself?

gravity???? that makes no sense either and sounds like it violates code

@@johnnyllooddte3415 Cold water sinks.

Do you have a flow diagram ?

It's actually convection, but some didn't understand that.

If it’s in a loop now then it would. It would be very quick to the other sinks even if they are not in a loop

@@tomkrupica No loop. Just a typical install as in the vast majority of homes. I do get it that I would get hot water faster out on the branches/legs, as the main line would have hot water. But there would still be some lag on the branches.

​@5thGenNativeTexan Plumber here, you would be correct there will be lag, specifically the amount of water contained in the individual branch from the trunk line. This system keeps the trunk line warm, but not all the branches. You can install multiple of these sensors though. If you (properly) installed one at every fixture you could have essentially instant everywhere.

I’ve been thinking about doing that, but I’ve been reading it can create bacteria in your hot water tank if it’s below 120°F. Any opinions on this

Before the Valve closes, it is easier to pump horizontally back into the cold system rather than push water up into a faucet. When the valve closes, the pump still has a path out of the faucet and the hot water is pushed out.

If on the same run or loop yes. If you have separate branches of hot and cold than you would need one at the end of each branch / leg. I’m going to see if I can track down plans for our house, but I’m also certain I can go into the mechanical room and find the direction of the water and determine my number of runs. Hope that helps your question.

5 years is "quick"?

I have not had mine installed long, and already I think the thermo valve is not working. I thought it might have an adjustable temp to set, but nope. Its a dummy unit with internal function. So I have to take this thing out and descale it? Geez...Is this gonna happen easily all the time? I too use a RO for drinking, but not for the rest of the water line. I do want it for shower so I can remove the fluoride in that as well. Most important thing to remove. But, this valve is now the issue...At least I think. Any way to test it?

You just have to run it until the cold gets there. The opposite problem.

under the sink, at the furthest fixtre from the water heater.

This isn’t fact but I’m willing to guess that you’d need to install the bypass valve with the gel tab that he talked about that goes at the sink in the farthest location. You would already have flow to the hot water on whatever direction it ran from the tank.

The pumps with higher flow rate work but, not with those black plastic bypass valves. Avoid using those comfort valves in high calcium area's or you'll be replacing them every two years. You'll know they've failed when you get scolded from the valve locking in open position.

Eh, I've got a hot water bidet and no amount of pre-flushing with the hot line gets it to decent temperature in a reasonable amount of time. You need a much larger volume of hot water than that to heat the hot line.

in California water is pretty precious here. Its up to you . probably another $2.00 a month in gas ( what we use here);

Exactly why I have hesitated on the purchase of a recirculating pump. The "on" position of the pump should sync with the water heater turning on and off but it's not going to because the sensor valve will turn the recirculating pump on and off so your scenario is the result. Thats what I thought was the flaw in the system which defeats the reason for the tankless water heater. If the pump synced with the water heater turning on and off it would be a fantastic system. I would have thought a manufacturer of tankless water heaters would have figured this out by now. I know Noritz has a built in pump with one of their new models but mine still works so I'll wait until it fails then check that out.

I unplugged my recirculating plug, I’m in a two-story house with a bridge valve upstairs so I still get hot water even without the pump. But this means my water heater is running all the time and it’s trying to recirculate all the time. I want the bridge valve out but I want to figure out how I do that myself!

Ocean Mariner wait for it to cool off

@Bob J so it pushes the cold water back to the water heater?

@@hyster2568 Yes. Your water heater will temporarily also get slightly colder. This isn't really an issue for tankless, obviously.

Use a DEDICATED Hot Water Return Line.

@@pablogaviria9265 That what a 3 line system is. Hot, cold and hot return.

$400.00 pretty affordable.

KOLERFLO ON AMAZON HAS PUMP FOR 64 DOLLARS

THAT WAS AS AN AC PROBLEM. PAY ATTENTION

A circulating pump will not change the overall pressure in a system.

But how wouldn't it if it has to overcome the house pressure to get back to the hwt, until it shuts off.

I have this exact pump in my 5 yr old house. It works great. I set the timer to run in the morning and evening. When not running, everything works as usual. I had to replace the pump and bypass valve after 4 yrs. The pump runs when the timer says it is supposed to run. This is a fractional pump so it is a tiny amount of water being recirculated back into the hot water heater. Not sure why so many negative comments here?? This guy is spot on everything he is saying. I have hot water literally in seconds during periods when the timer is set. Good video.

You misunderstood the purpose of the thermostatic valve. Maybe pay attention better instead of demonstrating your ignorance in front of the entire Internet.

You’re my kind of plumber, put in the thicker copper tube.

It's because that is where your sensor valve is. The valve opens when the water temperature is under 90° F allowing the hot water to flow throw into your cold water pipe. The valve closes again when the water flowing through it reaches 90° F again. This process happens all the time to keep the warm water at your faucet. When you turn the cold water on you are flushing out the warm water that was pushed into that pipe before the real cold water comes out.

Just run the pump only when you desire hot water. Tepid water from the cold line is a small, temporary price to pay for nearly instant hot water. Just give it a few minutes and the cold line will equalize to room temperature, just like before you installed the pump.

Jose Reveles they are at very similar pressures and the water wouldnt move in the pipes.

wouldnt work, hot pressure needs to over power the cold.

I got into this chat by chance, looking for the same answer. Would it be possible to just install the sensor? then as soon as I open the faucet, water would start circulating through the circuit but will not come out until it has reached the right temp. I still haven´t found the right answer.

@@p4csl.s.l.451 That's a rather vague question. Exactly which faucet would you open? If it's the hot tap, it'd be no different than if you had not installed the bypass valve at all. If it's the cold tap, you'd get increasingly warmer water until the thermostatic valve closed.

That's the point of the bypass and pump. It recirculates, it does not pour away.

WHAT DEVICE IS THAT?

Not if you run it on-demand or on a tight schedule. I personally plan to trigger the pump for a limited time with motion sensors wherever I walk into any room with a hot water tap.

Probably need to adjust the pump timing so that it isn't on for as long. OR your bypass valve is bad and isn't closing thus pumping large amounts of hot water into your cold line.

Remove the bypass system and return to the standard system, then install an inexpensive but good quality 120volt under sink water heater to the HOT side of your water, they are about $200, it will just act as a booster and use very little power.

toddstractorworks hmmm, I've been wanting to install a point of use but the 3 foot power cords are all to short and do not reach the outlet.

where ever you install the bypass valve the water temp at that fixture will be warm. that is the nature of the product, if you have a two story house and the master bath is above the kitchen you could install the bypass valve there. Usually having luke warm water in the bathroom sink is not as bad an issue.

under the furthest sink

"might have in certain cases luke warm water on the cold water side." Name one time you Would Not have to wait twice as long for cold water with this system installed..

@@utube4greenfuture well the time where the lukewarm water in the pipes had cooled to cold water... But yeah it's not ideal

Will not work with tankless.

Yes!

+Bourne Accident He said it, the farthest fixture from the water heater

+Bourne Accident He said it, the farthest fixture from the water heater

@@mikehoont9025 Hardly exact.

where you install the manifold water will be luke warm. My opinion well work it.

It depends on how cold the water in the hot water pipe is. If you haven't run the water all night long, then the entire hot water line from the water heater is cold. The check value will shut the water off once hot water reaches it. So depending on how warm the hot water line is, that is how warm your cold side will be.

This can be good if you have natural gas or propane. If your home is all-electric, the on demand heaters need 80 to 100 Amps of current to operate. While they aren't on for lengthy time periods, if this current is needed while your A/C and oven are running, etc., you may exceed the power available in your home. This is a paraphrase of what I was told by a plumber when I inquired about it.

under a sink, usually the master sink. or where you want the quickest hot water.

Great Knee Jerk idea that should be given more thought. Can you drink water heater water? The Claim: Never Drink Hot Water From the Tap Environmental scientists say it is real. The reason is that hot water dissolves contaminants more quickly than cold water, and many pipes in homes contain lead that can leach into water. And lead can damage the brain and nervous system, especially in young children.

@@eagle18hls Agree: Great Knee Jerk idea... The question is: "To waste water, or energy?" Since "sav[ing] water for the whole city" is proposed, where almost all domestic water is recycled (as a result of past investment in water-treatment plants), the question becomes, "Since water is not really being saved, is it worth the resulting higher usage of energy for 'all house should be build like that' for mere convenience?"

As the current pandemia has show, the "obvious" answer is probably not the best one.

Pumps work on relative pressure. Since there is 145 psi on both sides of the pump (once the lines are pressurized by turning your shutoff valve to the open position) there is a net pressure of 0 between the input and the output. Once the pump is on there is only a slight increase in pressure between the input and output. Think about it this way. Air compressors pump air through them but both input and output sides are pressurized with atmospheric pressure, and thus the atmospheric pressure cancels out and you only have left the pressure that your compressor is set to. There is no pressure difference between hot and cold lines when the pump is off and there is no water running. (By my deduction) The way this system works is there is a pump that has a built in bypass of some sort so when the output pressure of the pump is greater than a certain point the bypass is activated and allows the pump to pump a low resistance route. This is a built in property of some types of "fan" pumps and seeing as the pump is circular I would hazard a guess that they're using this type of pump. So when the temperature sensitive valve at the other end of the pipe opens the pump pumps hot water until the valve closes. When the valve closes the pump "free-wheels" in the bypass so the pressure doesn't get to high. Hope that helps even though your question is 8 months old.

WHERE ARE YOU AT? NO NORMAL HOMES EVER HAVE A PUMP IN THE ENTIRE USA. UNLESS CUSTOM. MANY USA HOME HAVE A PRESSURE REGULATOR SET ABOUT 75 PSI TO PREVENT SURGES AND WILL BREAK SUPPLY LINE AND FIXTURES . STANDARD FIXTURES ARE RATED AT 100 PSI. BAR IS FOR AIR PRESSURE NOT WATER. ALL OF USA USES FLEX LINES. ITS NOT GHETTO BOZO. WATER HEATERS ARE NOT INSTALLED OUTSIDE EITHER. THERE IS A METAL PHONE BOOTH TO COVER IT. SO MUCH BS ON THIS WEBSITE. THE PLUMBER IS TYPICAL OF THE TRADE TO LEAVE HALF OF IT OUT...... LIVED IN HB FOR 30 YRS --- LOTSA FLAKES.

@@b5a5m5 Exactly why you cant have thrust in a vacuum of space.

Of course it is. I installed one in my home. Excellent product!

yes, install the manifold at the fixture you want the hot water to quicker

Let's say you have a kitchen and two bathrooms. Get two people to help you. On cue you and your helpers turn on full hot water at all three locations at once and the have each shout when they feel hot water. The first to notice is the closest location to the water heater, the last to notice is the farthest location. But the closest and farthest locations may not be on the same path. For example in my remodeled house, the water heater used to be in the middle of the house 12 feet from the kitchen faucet. During remodel, the tanked heater was replaced with a tankless heater in the garage but the hot water now had to flow to what was the middle of the house before it could flow anywhere else. That effectively moved every faucet about 30 feet further away from the heater. It also means that the path from the heater to the kitchen is common between all faucets, but the path from the heater to the master bath is quite different from the path to the guest bathroom. Also, I would also add that I think FasterHotWater.com has a genius solution. They add a "flow monitor" to their system which turns the pump on WHEN it sees water flowing. That means you can e.g. turn on your hot water at any faucet for a second, turn it off and then wait. Meanwhile the pump stays on for 3 minutes to circulate the hot water back to the cold line allowing the heater to push hot water into the line. In this use, you waste very little hot water and do NOT run the risk of continuously running your heater to keep the water in the pipes hot. Note: My plumber had a Watts (Grundfos based) kit that he installed for me, but it didn't work. The reason it didn't work is not clear, but tankless heaters require sufficient flow for them to turn on and apparently either the pump (or the bypass valve) didn't produce enough flow. I just noticed a "genius" idea... which is to install TWO (or more) bypass valves to increase the flow. Gonna try that and if it works, I'll probably add the flow monitor.

The valve closes once the water gets hot stopping the flow. That way the cold line stays cold. You may have to replace them every 5 years or so, but they cost about $50. $10/year is not a bad price to pay to not waste water.

@@yamaguy If you have continually hot water in the hot line, it requires that you have continually warm water in the cold line.

@@jackt6112 and more potential for bacteria

The small valve he held up in the video opens and closes to keep the cold line cold and the hot line hot. Once the hot water reaches the valve it closes. It does not run continuously.

Nobody said you had to keep the hot water line at temperature all the time. If you're smart about it, you'll have the pump running on a schedule or, smarter, triggered by a motion sensor in each room with a hot water tap.