Tying new plumbing into old plumbing 

Excellent I learned a lot from watching this video one of the best on RU-vid

I would never have thought about using that to break cast iron

If only I could find a plumber like you in the Seattle area

You are one of my favorite plumbers to watch on RU-vid. Everyone does the standard plumbing but the plastic in the cast iron and using the 22 caliber tool are the type of things I like to learn. One thing, you were banging on cast iron without safety glasses. Just a reminder it only takes one chip to hurt an eye for life.

Love the Ramset tip! I got one for you; When trying to remove the last piece with the lead, cut all remnants of pipe off flush with a sawzall or grinder then use a hole saw the size of the lead ring, this works wonders.

Liked how you showed every step of working in such a tight area and all the challenges it can present. Looking forward to seeing it wrapped up.

Shooting the cast iron is genius.

excellent work

Very clean and professional work. Love that you leaded in that PVC to make the tie in. Cheers from Chicago

Oatey makes a poly sealant in a caulk tube that is made to "take the place of" lead. still pack with oakum then squeeze in the plastic seal product. I've never done it, only come across it in two old houses. Ironically both times they used it to put 3" thin wall PVC into the cast hub. I've had luck using vic lube and a ratchet strap to pull the push fit gaskets in place. get a stub of PVC into the gasket first, then lube the gasket and wrap the strap around the top of the pvc and the bottom of the cast fitting. I say if you like pouring the lead I don't see a reason to stop, keep the skills around.

Great work thanks for sharing can’t wait for more

Very professional with your work and like how you diagnosed your work

Great video. Great content. Keep them coming. 👍

Quality work!

Using the 22° fittings is probably a more professional way to do the job but I would have put in a long piece of pipe and supported one end so it was on the proper height and I would have used a heat gun a little way from the hub to allow the pipe to bend a little to the correct angle.

I'm curious about your reason for not moving the valves for the washing machine. It's obvious to not have them behind the 3-in pipe so you must have a reason for not doing it when they were easily exposed.

Yikes, there has to be some sort of resin/glue/epoxy that could be poured in the fitting vs heating lead? Also, when trying to get the piece out of the hub, would cutting a few slits with the saw make it easier to break pieces apart?, I know that's what the drill was doing, so that may be easier. And while it would involve tools normally not used in plumbing, I was thinking my air chisel/hammer might be much faster, or possibly a roto hammer drill in the hammer mode? And, you said cutting the hub at the wall might require a little grinding to make the pipe the right diameter, seeing as you have Dewalt tools, they have an excellent die grinder, put a carbide burr in it and it works magic on cutting away metal, I have one I use on all sorts of projects.

I own a rental with cast iron plumbing and my biggest fear is breaking something on the water main. That fitting going into the wall I would be afraid of breaking using a hammer. Why don't you use a torch and melt out the lead? Seems like you did a lot of work that could have been avoided by using a torch.

PPE please when whaling away at that cast iron- safety goggles and leather gloves!