Tying the Compact JRB Ascender Hitch, version 3 

Doing my best. These are done after midnight when the kids are asleep and obviously, I am the camera operator and the hardest part is staying zoomed in and keeping the knot in the field of view!

But I’m having a problem with redundant attachment to the rope on my second bridge, too much slack, dangerous if my top hitch slips, so likely go back to the Garda, that works perfectly. I might devise an adjustable footloop of web and a buckle

I am now using the Garda for all my footloop needs.

@@jrbtc that does seem to be the best fit for redundant safety and ease of ascension, ease of removal, no way to drop it, just works flawlessly, I have to give you a BIG THANK YOU for sharing that , what, two years ago now? Oh , one thing I am doing with the Garda is along with the long DSRT loop, I hung a short foot loop on there also. But I like the shove from above technique on both my SRT and DSRT climbs, with a long main bridge, so really don’t need to worry about different foot loop lengths. Just experimenting with web foot loops that are adjustable with the web running through the loops of 5-2-3 JRB soft bridge ascender. The buckle I am testing is a simple slider with a hook that is rated for climbing use. It does take my full weight so being careful with it, don’t really trust it just yet, I could see it slipping off the hook if I was not inspecting it closely at the beginning of a climb. But the hitch is not removable like the Garda , so it’s kinda in the way on rappel, but it will slide along under the top ascender hitch, or I could place it under the Munter. This would be only for SRT hitch climbing. DSRT I use only two 5-2-3’s soft bridge and the Garda. I’m using the soft bridge as often I will use the climbing rope as my tether at hunting height and might need one handed adjustment. But I will always carry a couple Longhorns , Garda, and a tether rope just in case.

Appreciate the feedback. And yes, this version is equally compact but easier to tie.

Yes sir I agree, don’t drop it off

If you're in my JRB Tree Climbing facebook group, please post a photo there. 6mm cord on 8mm rope is a good combination but fairly aggressive for a single rope application especially for heavier climbers. Yes, another wrap might help and a 7/9.5mm combination would likely perform better. There are a lot of variables including the cord you are using. Most 6mm cords aren't recommended for a life safety application for example. Please refer to the rope and cord pages on the website and be sure you have all that information under your belt. jrbtreeclimbing.com/

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Qwiw8wI9JSo.htmlsi=MpKqyyWufuh8RpIM

Unfortunately, I can't advise that. Sure, it's possible to rig something up, such as a loop or soft shackle to replace the rings, but as I understand that design, the rings hold the entire saddle together and provide load points too. Any kind of soft implement is going to completely change the load and shape dynamics and you might be unhappy with the results. And it would need to be tested and regularly inspected as I am guessing a soft loop wouldn't leave a good place to affix a bridge either. Sorry, but you're life is to valuable to experiment with.

@@jrbtc thank you for this. I’ll have to upgrade to something else then.

The D rings allow the panels, (it’s a 2 panel saddle), to slide easily and adjust as you move them, you can move the top panel either up on your lower back, or position it under your butt, and as you move it for your comfort or support as you walk wearing it, climb hanging on your rope, or are stationary on rope while hunting the panels change in length. I use a homemade copy of the eberhart signature. The D rings don’t cause any loosening of the saddle, The only way the panels would loosen would be when you do not have tension with your weight on your tether and bridge, such as when you advance up the rope when climbing and momentarily take your weight off the saddle as you step up in your foot loop, just before you shove your hitches and bridge back up tight and sit into it, you can solve this problem by tightening/modifying your waist strap,the eberhart has the waist strap running through the D rings, my modification is to have them not run through the D rings but inside across my waist when climbing, when walking I do run them rhrough the D rings to keep them tight against my waist, but when climbing with tension from your rope/tether and bridge the D rings should be out from your waist being pulled out by the rope and bridge. Hope this helps, just play with it hooked up low to the ground and get it like you like it, you can easily modify the waist strap and not significantly alter the design of the saddle or jeopardize your safety.

@@kennethrogers1129 thank you very much this makes way more sense and your way seems to be a better way of using it. I’ve been hunting 4 years out of this saddle and only thing I hate is the metal d rings. Weight, belt always loosens feels like I’m wearing sagging pants, noise wedding ring bangs it or climbing stick. Otherwise it’s comfortable.

The compact variations can't be tied with an eye to eye. I know that some have tied the standard version with one but getting the two legs perfectly balanced will require a few tries. It will require a long eye to eye and the length will depend on your diameters. All in all, i dont recommend it. You need a length of quality hitch cord at a diameter 75% that of your rope. Check here for length recommendations. jrbtreeclimbing.com/content/length-specs/

I understand. But we didn't have a hitch where the carabiner would reliably move the hitch nor a way to tie it that compact. Are you climbing MRS?

I tend to use the JRB double rope method more than any other method.

@@rangerdog316 ok, so for my stationary doubled rope JRB system, as stated in the video, i use the one on the left: the 523 JRB Ascender in Soft Bridge Mode with one loop exposed. Here's the video on how to tie it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oF9oGHQDiBA.html

Thanks. I was just talking about the carabiner being loaded on the knot in v3. For example, we were all taught to offset the knot, or sewn ends, of the prusik, so they aren’t at the bottom.

@@rangerdog316 i understand. Yes, the flat overhand bend is not the strongest bend when it's being pulled 180 degree directions However, in this configuration, it's not being loaded that way, and is mated with the carabiner. Also, its only taking half of our load. Lastly, it's backed up. I did a lot of testing on it and can't get it to budge.

This hitch or the Longhorn Agile Hitch is great for your application. On Rappel, the friction hitch is NOT your source of friction. It's only along for the ride. Your friction device such as a Munter absorbs most of the friction and yes, I like the Munter on my short bridge. I just published a new design for a double bridge. And here is the rappel video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KuJNyWTHRvk.html

@@jrbtc thanks for the response!!!! Your vid’s are really great for anyone looking to use ropes for anything off terra firms. Thx again!!!!

@@jrbtc I was also thinking since I have my linemens belt attached with two beaners that would work to as a quick attach bridge wouldn’t it?