U151 Teardown 

Thank you

Your welcome, anytime

Im sure, not a bad trans to work on. Usually after rebuild a memory reset needs to be done, do you have a scan tool?

Thanks

ok sounds good, what is the problem with the trans?

@@GaryFerraro ​ @Gary Ferraro There is no reverse. Based on your video, I hope to repair the problem w/o removing transmission. It looks like you removed about 80% of all parts from left cover and oil pan. I found U140 atsg manual at home +Toyota service manual+ your great video should help. Do I have a chance repairing reverse from left side and bottom? Thanks. PS. I consider transmission guys to be smartest auto mechanics, nothing in a car is more complicated that auto transmission.

@@car5car5 Does the car by chance move forward in neutral?

@@GaryFerraro I will check all forward gears and drive it tomorrow. The only thing I did when I bought it, I drove it a few yards to load on my tow dolly.

My car was flare shifting 2-3rd for a while last week on the highway it just felt like it neutral up stopped it drove off then neutral in 3rd gear any idea what could cause that?​@@GaryFerraro

so with the new axle in place, the car does not move? I would check the rear diff and Transfer case too. are all 4 tires exactly the same?

​@@GaryFerraro Thank you Gary. All tires are the same except for minor differences in tread wear but not amounting to more than about three mm of tread depth difference between the best and worst tires. I have checked the rear diff. It turns nicely and easily with no noticeable noises. Have not checked the transfer case yet. The engine starts and runs normally. When I select Reverse or Drive I do not notice any harsh transmission noises. The car is parked on a concrete driveway with a slight down slope forwards of about 1 in 20 - 1 in 30. I normally reverse it in up this gentle slope to park it. It used to be that if I reversed the car into the driveway, placed it into Park, turned the engine OFF, then took my foot off the brake it would roll forward slowly a few inches until the Park pawl engaged and stopped it. Now, in Neutral and the engine off it does not roll forwards down the slope. If I put it into Drive with the engine at cold idle (around 50F) it starts to move forward then stops. I need to rev it up to somewhere around 2,000-2,500 RPM before it will move forward. If, from stationary and with the engine at cold idle, I put it into Drive and allow it to move forwards a foot or so, then put it into Reverse it will move in Reverse under idle for about a foot then stop moving. I need to rev it to around 2,000 RPM or so to get it to move any further in Reverse. Under high revs it does move but very sluggishly as it would if was in soft sand. I have the rear end up on jack stands at the moment, and the front tires chocked. I have the transmission in Neutral. The Highlander has a bypass button that one can press to enable the gear selector to be moved out of Park without the key ON, and/or the engine running. Tomorrow I will disconnect the rear drive shaft at the second universal joint behind the transfer case and see if I can get the drive shaft to turn by hand with the transmission in Neutral and the engine off. Tomorrow I will also remove the transmission pan, and drain the ATF and the filter, and see what they look like. I'll also smell the ATF for any traces of a burned smell. I will let you know what I find. Thank you Mike PS. When I rebuilt the two GM THM 350 transmissions and the Corolla transmission about 35-40 years ago they all performed beautifully when I re-installed them back in their respective cars. (I am a semi-retired mining engineer and a self-taught mechanic. I have a fairly good understanding of hydraulics and fluid mechanics)

@@michaelwalsh864 ok, let me know, just point of info, with the rear drive shaft removed the car may not move or hold in park, let me know what you find

@@GaryFerraro Hi Gary. This is what I found. And firstly. I had transmission in Neutral because I didn't want the Park pawl interfering with any movement. Engine and ignition were off. Front wheels were on the ground and chocked. Rear end - observations and symptoms. I raised the left rear tire so that it was clear of the ground. I had the car supported on a jack stand. I left the right rear tire on the ground to provide frictional resistance to rotation. I set about disconnecting the rear drive shaft at the second universal joint (UJ) behind the transfer case. It was a struggle. The four UJ bolts had been done up with green loctite and were very difficult to remove. One of the top UJ bolts was nearly impossible to get moving, or get a wrench on, and the drive shaft would not rotate to get it into a more favorable position. I grabbed the left rear tire and tried to rotate it by hand but it would not move. I then jerked it forwards as hard as I could by hand so that the momentum of the tire would jerk on the drive shaft and rotate it a little each time. After about 6-8 jerks the drive shaft had rotated about 180 degrees so I could get to the UJ last bolt and undo it. I disconnected the drive shaft. The rear part of the shaft which goes through the rear diff to the rear tires rotated easily and smoothly, and made the left rear tire, which was off the ground, rotate easily. The front portion of the drive shaft that went into the transfer case would not move. I had put about 80 N.m (Newton,metres) of torque (about 60 ft.lbs) on it while I was trying to undo the UJ bolts but the shaft going into the transfer case did not rotate. I then re-connected the UJ and lowered both rear tires to the ground and chocked them. Front end. Transmission still in Neutral. Engine off. I raised the front end a little and supported most of the weight on jack stands. The right front tire had enough ground contact to provide frictional resistance to rotation. I raised the left front tire just clear of the ground. It rotated very easily by hand. Quite different from the rear. Transmission. I drained the ATF and took off the transmission pan. The ATF was quite thick (high viscosity) like an SAE 40W or 50W oil. It was dark and discolored but it did NOT have a burned smell when I rubbed it between my fingers. The pan magnet had some very fine metal fragments on it but none were big enough to feel. I estimate most fragments were smaller than about 50 microns. There appeared to be less than about 1 cc in volume of particles on the magnet. The pan itself was quite clean. There were no pieces of metal or rubber (o-rings, seals etc) in the bottom of the pan. That was it for today. The sun was going down and I'd bashed my head on something sharp under the car and drawn a little blood. I use gloves to protect my hands from cuts and bruises but heads under cars are a little harder to protect. (Still smiling though) Mike

Translation

You can probably get away with just bolting it back together, how does the RTV look?, is it still intact?

Gary, thanks for the reply. I can’t really see it clearly, the flange is separated about 1/4” and then I stopped. If I understand correctly, the RTV doesn’t really seal anything unless that o-ring fails. Is that your understanding as well?

@@tombiondi9969 correct

Back cover probably just worn out, i had to change a few

Thanks for watching

Tony Mikesell camry 2007 transmission clutch no3 where is the location of that sensor please sent a picture or diagram

What is your engine size, there are different transmissions

Gary Ferraro ok tomoro

ok

you should be able to, sometimes the pan bolts can be a bit of a pain but it is doable

usually when you release the gas the converter comes off, if the converter does not release on downshifts when coming to a stop the engine will stall. Are you sure your not hearing a diff noise?

@@GaryFerraroThanks for your quick response. I'm sure not from rear diff. I have FWD.

Just to confirm, you only hear the noise while moving? All tires exactly the same size and model?

@@GaryFerraro Thanks for the quick response! Yes only when moving and the tires are the same. Here is a little more of the story. The vehicle stopped being able to move like something had locked up. The driveshaft to the rear tires was removed and that allowed for the vehicle to roll. The driveshaft was reinstalled and then the car was able to move in drive or reverse but now with the grinding noise. Lifted all four tires and removed the driveshaft again to eliminate the rear differential but still getting the grinding noise. Grinding happens in drive or reverse but not in neutral. Grinding also stops when brakes are applied and the tires stop. I pulled drain plug to the transfer case and a very tiny amount of gear oil came out. Like just enough to fill the palm of your hand. The drain plug also had a fat chunk of oily metal shavings caked on it. I pulled the rear housing to the transfer case and was able to shake the output shaft a bit. It's not a super crazy amount but it is enough to where I know that something is not right in there. So now I am continuing with process of elimination and want to know if it is going to tell me anything by removing the cv axles and putting it into drive or if I just need to remove the whole transfer case and run the transmission really quick to listen for grinding. I just dont know if I can potentially mess up the transmission by running it with the transfer case removed. I'm just assuming that the transmission is ok at this point. I understand that I will probably lose some tranny fluid when I run the transmission with the transfer case removed but it will only be for a few seconds to listen for grinding since the grinding happens as soon as the tires are moving. Hope this info helps you to understand where I am at with it right now. Thanks again for your time!

Honestly, not that much, funny thing is i just did 3 back to back. Sometimes customer declines overhaul, they can get a bit pricey

Were they all van transmissions? Thanks for the info! I have this transmission in my RAV4.

Quick question can they bolt up on all platforms or they are only the same internally?

It gave me the codes p0776 p0746

@@maxp3273 These are mechanical codes, usually means internal problem. There are other cars that use this trans like the sienna but i'm not sure what will work, what you need to do is if you want to put a used transmission in, call a yard with your vin number, they should be able to tell you what will fit

Doing this a long time

my sienna 2006 3.3 dose that as well, any ideas? any solutions? thanks

My Lexus did that for about now it won't shift pass 2nd gear

Fed back to the computer so it knows when to fire the solenoids and when to shift the car

2716 is usually a computer, did the code return?

@@GaryFerraro no it didn't return

Sure, you can change the fluid cold, when its done just check it at operating temp. What kind of car are you thinking about servicing?

Hi, thanks i have Chevy caprice 2008, one mechanic told me you have to keep the vehicle with me till trans. is fully cold because if i change the oil when trans hot it may affect the trans,ex.clutches or any thing else..

The only thing that may happen is he may get burned by the hot fluid, nothing will happen to the trans

Thanks Boss

No different, the final drives are different,has extra shaft, right side axle, axle seal is different, internals should be the same

Thank you

Low/Reverse clutch, that like in the middle of the case, to get access to it, the rear cover has to come of

@@GaryFerraro thank you for quick response,you're great man

Al H Are you sure it's not a wheel bearing. If it were a diff bearing inside the trans the noise would not change. Sounds like a wheel bearing. Check both left and right side

Gary Ferraro I have checked both front bearings. A stethoscope puts the noise in either the trans or front transfer case. I should add I am a 10 year toyota master tech. I have never had one like this.

Any chance you have any koyo RNU070824-1 bearings laying around? Toyota has discontinued the bearing.

I do not have any, but where are you located? These are the bearings on the diff?

Gary Ferraro no it's a support bearing for the under drive. It stays in the bell housing cover. This bearing has been discontinued by toyota. I am in southern pa. Another question. Should the half shaft that runs the transfer case (the part in the differential, in the trans) be notchy when turned or smooth?

first, do you have a scan tool to reset shift adapts. If that did not work, the problem most likely are the solenoids, you would have to change the SL1, SL2, SL3 and SLT solenoids and you would still have to reset shift adapts

How is reverse? Any delay? any codes present?

@@GaryFerraro no codes, went to Toyota dealer to have dtc check. No delays in shifting. When the engine gets hot, at first when you put it in drive, you will have to rev higher, car will move forward, slips a bit then after that car will drive normally already, no problem in delay or shifting problems anymore even on high speeds. Reverse rearward is okay even when cold engine or hot engine. I also noticed, that even its hot after you drive a while, and if you get stucked in traffic stationary for 10 mins, it will slide but will move forward and everything goes to normal again. Which part do I only need to change?

Car model by the way is a 2004 camry with 1mz engine 3.0 engine. 5 speed. Is it also considered a u250e?

If reverse is ok, may have a problem with the forward or C1 clutch, The underdrive brake clutch is on in drive but it is also on in reverse so if reverse is ok, I would think that clutch is ok

@@GaryFerraro okay will take note of that. Will replace that forward or c1 clutch just to be sure. Many thanks again!!!

Valvebody has to come down to get the solenoids out, if shifting ok i would leave them

@@GaryFerraro I guess if it ain't broke...thank for the reply.

​@@GaryFerrarocan solenoids prevent the transmission from shifting above 2nd gear?

@@matden5595 if mechanically bad it can

@@GaryFerraro am clueless now having 2-3 flare shifts about a month now only sometimes 2 days ago vehicle felt like it neutral on the high way pulled off drove off again went through 1st 2nd then neutrals when it should go in 3rd any ideas?

It's u151e. Also what is more reliable when checking the dipstick, cold or hot?? I have checked the dipstick probably a thousand times and the hot parameter always has weird inconsistent readings (ie low then overfull then midway then overfull then overfull then low) but cold is always consistent, however in actuality I dont know what the more accurate level is to judge by, the cold or hot level?? It reads just under the low level when cold (bad territory?) However it also reads midway and full when hot...? I don't want to overfill either, so...?

@@mandarinmelonberry946 They should be checked hot, look at both sides of the stick and always go with the lower side, that is the true reading. 5K thats too much for that trans. Where are you located?

Hi Gary thanks for the quick reply you're awesome man! I'm in Florida, Pensacola. A couple shops along with the dealership keep quoting me 4-5k for a used transmission/rebuild (basically for parts and labor- they say it's 16 hours labor). I have found some transmissions online for about 2k (I want to order the transmission myself so they don't rip me off on that part). I cant install it myself, the worst thing I've done is a clutch on a beetle.. not about to tackle this! In your opinion is this 2005 RX330 2wd worth the cost of a new tranny AND timing belt??(according to local mechanics about 6k for both repairs) I ask because the engine is a 3mzfe with no apparent problems and hopefully half its life left(?)(145,000 miles.. I heard they can run 300,000 pretty easy?) The other consideration is its 17 years old, but only averaged

Hey Gary also would you recommend going with a used lower mileage transmission, shop rebuild, factory rebuild, etc?

Not shifting as in failsafe? any codes? or is it stuck in first gear? anything else done other than axle?

Gary Ferraro I guess the CV was replaced when the trans was still not at room temperature... That problem is perculiar to the trans

Gul Engr ok so you have an issue with an axle trans is ok?

Yes, its slipping (when I accelerate from stop sign engine revs but van doesnt move for two three seconds) and I need to replace it. I was looking for compatible transmissions and came across this axle code thingy.

Apparently its a known issue of transmission failure for 2008 model sienna. So I am hunting for a transmission to swap. I found out Rav4 2006-12 fwd v6 has same (u151e) but different axle code. (05A). I am eyeing at it since much cheaper and less miles on it. Google failed me for the answer. 😊

Gul Engr you really need to go by the vin number to find a replacement unit

Got it..Thanks. On a separate note, is it possible to pull the transmission only while leaving engine inside?

Are you working with a 4 cylinder or a 6 cylinder?

Gary Ferraro 6 cylinder its a 2007 lexus es350

The 6 cylinder transmissions, the cases go bad where the center bearing rides, the ones i had, the damage was bad, it would cost to much to rebuild so i got a low mileage unit, i actually never rebuilt one yet.

There is a center nut and one or two bolts on the outside of the switch, then carefully get behind and give a little pry, sometimes can be very tight a little frozen, can also spray WD40 to try to loosen it up

@@GaryFerraro Thanks for the information. I have tried the Blaster with pry bar on it and it didn't bulge out. I will need to try again.

@@hakeemsule6543 They can get frozen in there, sometimes i take out the rod with the switch still on it(easy on the bench). maybe pry on each side evenly see if it will move

Thanks so much for the update. I was thinking about doing that, your update confirm I'm on the right direction. Thanks for sharing your experiences and knowledge!

What is the definition of code P0776

What is the year, make and model of the car?

It is a 2004 Toyota Sienna.

..."Solenoid B" problem. I can get the exact definition later today.

The code is Solenoid B performance, this is a mechanical code, how is the car shifting up through the gears, any slipping or flaring?

The 250 is a 5 speed tans, the U241 is a 4 speed trans, parts are not the same

Gary Ferraro how about u150e and u140e

same deal, U150 is a 5 speed and the U140 is a 4 speed(the u140 transmissions geartrains always go bad) 2 different units

Gary Ferraro why the direct clutch c0 always go bad in these unit

These units have solenoid issues, i always change the SL1, 2 and 3 solenoid as well as the SLT solenoid, the solenoid may be mechanically bad causing the clutch not to fully disengage the clutch will drag and burn out

Thanks for the tip. i going to ask my rep tomorrow about, may have another to do.

I do not sorry, i purchase the OE solenoids through my supplier. The solenoids arer SL1, SL2, SL3 and SLT(pressure control)

? Translation

أنا لا أجيد اللغة الإنجليزية ؟

????

Gary Ferraro camry 4cylinder 2008 pls sent in to my watsup 00966502124131

أبو علاء مطر translation: how to know the third gear sensor in toyota transmission 2007 and location .

Hello, what transmission problem are you having?

Ok, so would you say the car moves when cold and stops moving when hot?

Its very hard to do that, shop is always busy, sometimes it takes me 2 days yo rebuild a trans, but i will keep that in mind, thanks for watching

Does it seem like it's binding up?

@@GaryFerraro I really do not know what you mean by binding up but do you mean like it freezes.what I really do mean is it engages in reverse but when you try to move on reverse it’s sluggish and even doesn’t want to go uphill. No force to propel the vehicle

@@mayowaodus6310 Does the engine race up and the car not move that great in reverse?

@@GaryFerraro yes that’s what I meant. Doesn’t move that great on reverse

@@mayowaodus6310 So it slipping in reverse, that is a mechanical problem, may have a damaged clutch pack

Not Sure, sorry

​@@GaryFerraroAny ways to contact you have a few questions