UJK Parf Guide System Mark 2 - Part 2 

Hi Steven, Many thanks for the super feedback. Take care. Peter

Hi Adi, Thank you so much for the excellent feedback. You have made my day. Cheers. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop Peter, I couldn't get in time, here in Romania, Danish oil so was forced to treat the top after completing all holes. I remember your advice to do that before but had no other way than to do it later and it happened that more than half of the holes became difficult. The other great experience was to use the calibration tool bought as accessory - excellent result in minutes. Meanwhile arrived also the square and fixing cams so now I solved all my issues with large boards cutting, and more others. Sorry, I have now a bigger issue, couple of my friends are pushing me to work out their workbench too. I am a big fan of your jigs and fully recommend them to my hobbyist friends.

Hi Peter, There are a lot of professional woodworkers now doing similar. Cheers. Peter

Hi Brian, It is very kind of you to report your success and and I am really grateful for such fine comments - The Bahamas - I am very jealous !! Have a good weekend. Cheers. Peter

One other thought, I notice after finishing this top some wear on the aluminum stop collar where it would rub on the guide, too soon for that. I will make an improvised washer out of a milk jug or plastic carton, free and easy to replace.

Many thanks

Hi Derek, Welcome to the new way of doing things with many tens of thousands before you. Cheers. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop stage one 3mm holes including offset holes completed, two cotes of osmo after tea so simple it can't be legal

You are very welcome

Hi Jon, I am busy writing the new instruction manual and will ensure that it is clearly stated. Cheers. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop Good plan Peter. Just hope I haven't killed the bit.

Much appreciated. Cheers. Peter

Glad you like them!

Hi Si, I am still learning new things at my age ! Cheers. Peter

Hi Steve, It will not be long and they will be in stock. Axminster are taking pre-orders which might be a good idea as it is looking like the first production run will go quite fast. Cheers. Peter

New Brit Workshop Thanks Peter, my order is in 😉 how many parf dogs do you need? I’ve ordered 2 long ones and 4 of the shorter ones hopefully will get up and going 🤞🏼

Hi Steve, That is a good start. I would recommend that you use the Parf Super Dogs or the tall Veritas Parf Dogs to push the guide rail against. The Veritas ones will need to be secured wit a pair of 8 mm knobs from underneath whereas the Super Dogs do not. If you use Super Dogs or the UJK Guide Dogs or Pups then you will need to chamfer the top of the holes where they will fit. This can be done with the UJK chamfering tool or a chamfering bit in your router. Good luck. Peter

I am only on my second 20 mm cutter. The first one was the plain sided one that came with the Mk 1 system and so I then went to the Centrotec ended one on the Mk 2. I have probably done the equivalent of 40 MFT3 tops with the latter cutter and it is still cutting quite well. Everyone should remember that even a brand new cutter will not work unless there is a 3 mm hole already through the MDF. Should the cutter start to heat up (you will smell the warmed up MDF) or needs to be pushed hard to get through then it is time to renew the cutter. It is essential to use a dust extractor to clear the waste whilst drilling otherwise the life of the cutter will decrease by a huge amount. Cheers. Peter

Hi Jason, The 20 mm drill has spurs which should leave a very clean exit on the underside. It is designed to perform best with MDF. For the best results do not apply excessive downward force whilst drilling and ensure that the extractor is catching all of the waste. Peter

Hi Randall, The whole point is to stop worrying about the small mark when cutting. Just make sure you only cut one mm or two deeper than your stock. Cheers. Peter

Thanks Peter. Appreciate you taking the time to reply. Really enjoy your channel

Hi Graham, Try to leave some 3 mm holes that would allow you to extend the offset holes at a later date. I have made many tops with bags of spare 3 mm holes that I only enlarge when required. Cheers. Peter

New Brit Workshop Of course why didn’t I think of that!!!!🙄. I’m sure someone has mentioned it but if not I bet it’s got you thinking! Version 3. Thank you so much for the quick reply have been making space in my shed today and will be looking at Axminster Tools very soon. Have just seen the 30deg/60deg video Wow even better Cheers Graham

I am not sure where the chamfer tool is demonstrated. It is simple to use just put the 20 mm boss into a hole, push down and twist. It is best to do 3 complete 360 degree revolutions pushing down hard each time. Cheers. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop thanks I found the chamfer bit from Axminster so will order that. One more question if you don’t mind, if I’m working on a table with two sheets (mdf top, ply bottom) I’m guessing drill the initial pilot holes and then with the fostner bit until it bottoms out then once all are done reuse the pilot dog again to drill a further pilot hole and repeat? I’m guessing total thickness is 36mm+/-

The PGS is not designed or able to take the depth down to 36 mm and my worry is that trying to extend the depth may results in a loss of accuracy. I can't remember quite how deep one can go with the 3 mm drill or the 20 mm cutter. It is vital that when using the 20 mm cutter that the 3 mm pilot hole is there and goes all the way through. The MDF top should be more than enough to guarantee accuracy so you could drill the holes in the plywood larger than 20 mm using a normal Forstner. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop now that’s a super idea, I think il do that, once the initial holes are drilled il separate the panels and follow up the bottom panel with a larger forstner bit 👍🏼

Hi James, The best material for the dog holes is fresh air ! I assume you mean the top and I always use Medite Moisture Resistant MDF as it has a hard outer layer and cuts brilliantly. Peter

Hi Candido, Yes, the locator dogs can be used instead of the small Veritas ones but you should also look at the Axminster UJK range of dogs and super dogs as well. Peter

I recommend using 3/4" or 18 mm MDF for the top. The system can work up to 22 mm thickness but many people have managed to go thicker. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop Thank you Peter, yes my top will be around 2 inches or 51mm thick. I wonder if after I drill the initial hole with the 20mm bit, can I remove the block and just finish drilling the hole with just the bit, without disorting hole size. I've never tried re-drilling a forstner bit hole.

Whatever you end up doing make sure that you use the 3 mm drill and guide that comes with the kit to drill the pattern of 3 mm holes even though they will not be as deep as you would like. Then take a normal 3 mm drill and put it in your drill and do your best to extend two of the 3 mm holes say 960 mm apart (if your top is big enough) all the way through. Do not extend any more 3 mm holes. Now using the kit as provided drill the 20 mm holes to a depth of no more than 22 mm. Now flip the top over and based on those two 3 mm holes that went all the way through create your full pattern of 3 mm holes using the rulers as intended. As the accuracy of your completed top will come from the top 19 mm of the holes drilled out to 20 mm, the holes underneath can be drilled out at (say) 25 mm diameter but only to a depth that allows them to just reach the bottom of the 20 mm holes. I can only imagine that you want a thick top for strength. I have always used 18 mm MDF with no problem at all especially if in places it is supported from below. With such a thick top you will not be able to use the lever clamps and there may be other compromises. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop Thank you for the great explanation Peter, I really wanted a strong beefy top, but I may reconsider and weigh the pros and cons of this heavy duty top vs a thinner top, but easier to build with your system, and with a larger selection of accessories.

I forgot to mention that the special 20 mm cutter has to have a 3 mm pilot hole all the way through otherwise there is a danger that the tip can be broken. Peter

Hi Tim, Yes, plywood can be awkward but we have two solutions. For anyone about to do their top; at the end of cutting each 20 mm hole do several plunges through the hole to clear any fine debris. If you have done all the holes then get the UJK 20 mm reamer from Axminster (107586) or the combination chamfer/reamer (107868). The latter is better as it also does the chamfer. Peter

Hi Paul, The stop collar is there to protect the drill should the user disconnect it from the drill between operations. The 20 mm cutter is designed to go all the way through. There is very little breakout with good quality MDF. Peter

Hi Angio, You can use the chamfer tool or a chamfer cutter in a router. Peter

Hi Mike, The 20 mm cutter is designed to give a clean exit wound in MDF. For plywood (which Ron is using) it is not quite so good (but better than other options) and so a small up-cut may help. For me, plywood is not a good idea for a bench top as it is more expensive than MDF and less stable. Cheers. Peter

Hi Peter, I am still using the same cutter that I had when the PGS Mk II was introduced. Although not drilling Valchromat I would guess that I have made between 500 and 600 holes in Medite MR MDF. It has an outer layer (on both sides) which is the equivalent of HDF and so I would expect you to be able to complete your top without a problem. I am still saving up for a sheet of Valchromat ! Good luck. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop Thank you Peter. I was under the impression that you advised valchromat? So you use the V313 moisture resistant MDF? That is a lot cheaper than valchromat, and you get great results. It would allow for even a 22 or 25 mm thick plate and get an even higher stability. The bottom side could have a slightly larger chamfer to allow for clamps but the extra thick panel would feel more solid ..... or am I missing something?

Hi Peter, I would certainly recommend Medite MR MDF. If you go for thicker material put the extra chamfer (for the clamps) on the underside which then will not affect the Parf Super Dogs from behaving as they should. Good luck. Peter

Yes, the offset holes should be done at the 3 mm drilling stage. However, if you have created your dream top and drilled out all the 20 mm holes you can revisit the process by using the Parf Revision Dogs. Peter

Please see the recent video on Offset Holes with the PGS as it is all explained there in detail. Peter

Brilliant. Cheers. Peter

Hi Chris, I have talked about this a lot in various Parf Guide Videos. Just go for what you think is right but leave some 3 mm holes so that you can then re-introduce the Parf Sticks to expand the design at a later stage. Peter

You can use a router but for speed with say, just a few holes to do, it is easier to use the Chamfering Tool - Axminster part number 104464. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop Thank you for your response, Peter. I'm in the US, where metric is not the preference.Would there be any significant advantage to those here if you also marketed an Imperial version of the PARF system ???

Yes, the 20 mm cutter and also the holder for the 3 mm drill are Centrotec. Peter

Hi Billy, Yes, just go to the Axminster web site and choose US$ and give a shipping address and you will get a delivery quote before you press the order button. Delivery can be as short as 3 days for the east coat but may be a day or two longer for the west coast. Alternatively you can wait for TSO to stock them - you need to contact them to find out when that will be. Peter

Hi Patrick, No, the only centres that can be drilled are 96 mm, 48 mm and 32 mm. Why would you want 88.9 mm? Peter

Hi Hewitt, I have had no problems with larger sheets. John made some errors which he has acknowledged if you read the comments carefully. He is a great guy. Peter

Hi James, You may be pushing too hard at the end of the cut which will mean that the thin weak layer towards the end of the hole is pushed rather than cut through. Drill more slowly and use a "pecking" technique. Also, low quality MDF tends to have the same outer layer as the core. Medite MR MDF has a hard outer layer which helps to prevent breakout. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop thanks for that Peter, I was pecking and trying to hold my midi extraction hose at the same time so I maybe didn't have the control I should have. My MK2 kit didn't come with the port. I do intend to use Valchromat or forescolor for the final piece so hopefully that'll help.

I drew those lines to aid my explanation. There is no need to draw any line when doing a bench top. Peter

Hi Patrick, Yes, the dust port will fit. I am sorry that there is no simple upgrade path from the Mk 1 to the Mk 2 - the new features of the Mk 2 make it a far better product that is designed to last a lifetime. The only wear now will be the 20 mm cutter which can be replaced. In the right hands the Mk 2 also is more accurate. Cheers. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop Peter, I'll have to look and see if Axminster sells the mkII parts separately. I'm not sure if TSO over here will do so. Keep up the good work mate.

You can make both 32 mm space patterns and 48 mm spaced patterns with the Mark 2 system using the offset holes. Take a look at this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tOhDFN5Cx-s.html Peter

Hi Alex, It is not possible to produce a 20.3 mm hole with the cutter supplied unless it is not held properly in the 20 mm guide block. The cutter is designed to be a very close fit for the dogs. Please contact your supplier (Axminster I assume), give them your order details and be prepared to send the cutter back. If the cutter really is oversized then it is a very odd manufacturing issue and it will be replaced. Peter

Hi Peter, thanks for your help. Yes i have now a new one and this is now accurate.

Hi Philip, Up to 25 mm is not a problem but over that the depth of cut of the 3 mm and 20 mm drills may become an issue. Also, third party tools, like the clamps from Festool, do not work over 25 mm. Tracksaw cutting station tops only need to be 18 mm thick. A multi functional (expecting serious abuse) bench top should be fine with 25 mm Medite MDF. Peter

Hi Christoph, No, only 20 mm I am afraid but I have asked people to let me know if they want 3/4" or 19 mm. Peter

Hi Kenneth, Yes I do read every fresh comment on my channel and try to respond to them all - it takes between 1 and 2 hours each day. I saw what I assume is your thread on the FOG. I understand that anyone with a hand injury may find it easier to use a router but it is almost impossible to make a absolutely round hole with a router unless the router is screwed or clamped to the work piece. Many people have tried but most holes either turn out too large or slightly oval. But back to your question; I do not know of any router cutter that is the exact size of the UJK 20 mm bit. If you are the same person as the one on the FOG please PM me on the FOG and I will try and help further. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop Hi Peter, thank for the reply. Yes that is me on FOG - didn't realise it was you replying to me there as well - sorry post contacting you twice. Will send you a PM.

Hi Robert, I have made a test go on some melamine coated MDF and it seemed okay. The cutter handles it well but there was tiny bit of breakout on the under side - nothing that would worry me. Peter

Hi David, We can fix this - what dogs are you using? Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop I have a mixture of Parf Pups and Super Dogs plus a couple of Veritas bench dogs.

Hi David, I am not happy with the tightness that you describe. I recommend a "pecking" approach when drilling the 20 mm holes - keeping the 20 mm guide in place drill a few mm then raise the cutter, then drill some more and repeat, say about 4 or 5 pecks to complete the hole. If the 20 mm cutter goes through too quickly some of the fibres of the MDF get compressed and expand within seconds of the drilling being completed. It has happened to me several times and I must confess that I have just run the 20 mm cutter through the dodgy hole(s) free hand (but carefully keeping it square to the MDF) and this has sorted it out. If this does not solve it please let me know and I will ask Axminster to recover your 20 mm cutter for checking. Please let me know how you get on. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop I've experimented with different drilling techniques and I think you are correct that the MDF becoming compressed and then expanding. If I take my time with the pecking action, the holes certainly allow the dogs to fit. It could also be down to the moisture content of the MDF at the time of drilling. I'll make another worktop and see what happens. Thanks for your advice.

Hi Joe, Trust me - buy some Medite Moisture Resistant MDF - I am sure that the well known builders' suppliers will fix it for you. If in the UK then try Timbmet who have outlets around the country. It is far superior to normal (B&Q quality) MDF and is probably cheaper. Peter

OK, Ill have a look. Timbmet seems to be £250 minimum for delivery but I may be down south sometime. I'll check local building suppliers though.

I always collect from them but I think Travis Perkins will get it for you. Peter

Wickes do a decent MR MDF it's kronospan.

Hi Michael, You are right, it is only the guide rail clips that are Festool specific. You can even use the system with any circular saw with just a straight edge instead of a guide rail. Cheers. Peter

Hi Anthonie, It is the anodising in the 3 mm holes. It is very easy to deal with, just use the 3 mm drill guide with the shorter protrusion and the 3 mm drill in its holder to go through those 3 holes. It is very simple and does not affect the accuracy once done. Peter

Hi Peter, I was thinking along these lines as well, but didn’t dare to do this. So I tried it, but to no avail. What to do next? Could the pins be oversized? Neither of them fit, so that would be unlikely. Could the drill be undersized? I only used it for a dozen holes... Your input is appreciated! Thanks

Hi Anthonie, This is very odd and should not happen. The pins are produced on a continuous run CNC and it is almost impossible for one to be wrong and so the chances of several being wrong and in the same packed PGS set is never going to happen. Please would you now contact Axminster Customer Services and explain the situation. They will sort this out for you. I am so sorry that this is delaying you using the new Mark 2. Please let me know if you have any problems. Peter

Hi peter, No worries, I also contacted axminster, but you were the first to answer. For what it s worht; I went to the store to get a new 3mm drill and I can smoothly fit the shank through the holes in the 20mm guide block. So let’s wait for Axminster to reply. Thanks once more.

Hi Anthonie, I will wait to see what happens next. Rest assured you will get this sorted out by Axminster. Peter

Hi Matt, You would have to check with Axminster - cs@axminster.co.uk Peter