A bigger filter allows you to have more filtering media, which decreases the surface velocity of the oil flowing through. You will see significantly lower pressure drop across the larger filter. If it fits I'd recommend it.
On all my 2JZ setups Id run the larger YZZD3 filter, oil pressure barely ever showed any true drops, but I also used the slightly higher capacity for 300ML additives as well. Especially with a relocation the D3 is worth it.
people also need to remember that all filters are not the same. if going with a filter that wasn't designed specifically for that vehicle, they need to look into how much oil pressure your oiling system outputs and how much pressure the system that filter was designed for opperates and or what pressure the bypass valve operates on the oil filtesr. you could have an issue if you run into the extremes. your system having high oil pressure and the filter designed for lower will result in the bypass valve being active too often and oil not being filtered which can result in pre-mature bearing wear or failure.
Wow....... Your bearing clearance and oil pump dictate the engines oil pressure. If the filter was the point of highest resistance you would see bearing failure.
@@jasonhooey5677 it's a relative amount. The filter probably won't make a huge difference (depends on the flow rates across it). Yeah I agree that bearings are the reason you need an oil pump
@@ramonbombom166 you can understand though that it's the clearance the ultimately sets the pressure when running. Big clearance low pressure, high pressure super tight clearance. The pump is also apart of this . Most filters have a relief valve built in incase the media gets plugged, to bypass oil. Which is low, most less than 12psi. A big filter allows you to go longer between oil changes and hold a little more oil.
Biggest filter that fits. Shorten the stock 2-piece driveshaft first. A driveshaft shop can shorten and balance it really quick. Avoids the possibility of drivetrain vibration at speed (and it's cheap!) compared to a 1 piece. You can always order a custom one-piece later if it proves to be an issue. Wouldn't you need to convert to some sort of slip-yoke setup if you do a 1 piece shaft? I didn't think the guibo was enough, since the OE has a slip yoke at the carrier bearing. Did I miss what exhaust manifold you're using? Looks nice. Can't wait to see what turbo you'll use.
I run a solid motor mount on my car and that allowed the engine to be about an inch lower. That might resolve a lot of your issues. Maybe see if you can test drive a 2jz with solid mounts? Because it's a straight 6 it has almost no NVH issues except the slightest shake at idle. GL with the build. Can't wait to see how it turns out.
I've lowered my engine about an inch with solid motor mounts in the past. That combined with poly suspension bushings and higher rear gear ratio made the car much more nimble and responsive. I think this is a good idea.
6:20 The larger filter will allow more volume to flow through the filter at the same pressure; however, the holes in the inlet (smaller outside holes) are probably the restriction anyway. Without knowing the bottleneck, nobody could tell you if the larger filter is of benefit. I'm sure K&N has the flow data; call them.
A tough job made quite a bit easier with some great swap part support! I've found I need to figure out how much hammer-massaging I plan on doing and multiply it by 10 to match reality. The only concern I would have with the one piece driveshaft is getting the proper angle on the U-Joints. Congrats on the progress!
Hey Pete...doesn't matter if this vid didn't have all the cool parts...don't apologise...this vid was way better....showing the process of what works and what doesn't. Real world $#it . Keep up the great content. Nice filming Dave 👍
If they had installed the drive shaft the shifter would be in the stock location. So the only problem would be mounts for the 2jz taking into account the adaptor and how far forward the engine falls. And to a lesser extent the brake booster and master cylinder. Swapping jz into e chassis is a common practice where I'm from.
Get a PHR modified oil pump or look up how to port the factory like pump. Then run the large filter. Either way google 2jz TSRM, the factory minimum spec for oil pressure is like 7 psi at idle or some crap. Also you will see a pressure drop when you add the oil cooler so a stronger flowing pump will help with that. Also I will slap you over the internet if you dont change the valve stem seals before installing the motor.
Bigger oil filter for sure guys. For the driveshaft any reputable driveshaft shop will be able to shorten the existing one and balance it. The horsepower freaks m3's were pushing nearly 1000rwhp with these oem driveshafts. The one piece being better is specifically around a track application. For a daily high hp car you'll have no issues with the OEM driveshaft.
Cool series! Longer oil filter should not lower your oil pressure. Just takes more oil to fill. A drive shaft shop should be able to shorten and balance your drive shaft if you provide the mesurements and your driveshaft is made of steel or aluminum.
Guys, when having a custom prop shaft made up for my swap (albeit a different chassis/engine) rule of thumb is if you’re going over 1m in length, balance/vibration is tricky with a single piece and it’s recommended to go 2-piece. Even if you go single piece and thicker wall, the added mass becomes an issue at speed.
Really interesting how you've done your 2jz swap compared to mine. Mines had the engine further forward so I can still use OEM driveshaft and gearbox mounting cradle. But the problem I run into is finding a radiator fan setup that can fit in the front. Currently use slim line fans but on track just doesn't cut it.
If it has a BMW rear diff, drive shaft and gearbox it should all fit. I think you need them engine mounts adjusted forward to compensate for the thickness of the gearbox adapter plate.
I have a friend who has a 1150whp E36 M3 (with the S50 euro engine) - I think he broke 2 or 3 stock driveshafts with around 800whp (doing drag racing mostly) - He since then have been running a once piece for like 4 years without issues
Very cool. I always wonder why not design on cradle spacers and the control arm bushings. Add extra bolts through body. Will increase wheel travel and more adjustability on a slammed coilover.
I would use the smaller filter just simply because it is closer to the factory size. It will be easier to change also. The only advantage of the bigger filter would be extra oil which increases thermal capacity but since you are adding an intercooler you already will have extra oil.
Haven't K&N oil filters had some structural issues with that nut stuck on the bottom? I've heard of them blowing out. Also, your oil cooler setup will probably lower oil pressure. So maybe try the small filter first? Reach out to DysonAnalysis if you're really concerned about it (might need to send him a sample first).
for the filters, oil pressure and filtration are the same, the larger one just has a larger capacity and service life ( might take a little while longer to get oil pressure after a change unless the filter is pre filled )
As much as i like your vids, im not the guy that complains on RU-vid creators, it would be nice with some more actual building and a bit less bolt on parts from boxes. But maybe its just me. :) great work guys!
@@speedacademy Well, that's an issue I had forgot about.. The notch might be the cleaner solution though, as it seems like a nightmare to get heater hoses etc. working with that little space, even if you manage to clearance the firewall/tunnel.
@speedacademy In my experience with Chevy LS motors bigger or smaller filters usually lead to the OEM oil pressure gauge reading weird oil pressure ranges. I would avoid changing the size if possible. I had a 5.3 that spun a bearing that I am pretty sure was loss of oil pressure after switching to a larger WIX filter. It's just speculation on my part though.
Would the engine drop in with the supplied mounts if it weren't for your adapted transmission set-up, or would you have to do all that bashing and cutting regardless? Almost seems like a custom engine mount - or modifying the supplied ones - would have been less work.
Nice project!! im building my one too. it's an E36 coupe with 2JZ from Aristo. i'm facing some problems, the oil pan are hitting the steering box. maybe can you share your experience!! thanks!!
Except for TURBO lambos. 😆 But you are right about NA Lambos. I was NOT impressed at all with their level of power. I did a full day package with Gotham rentals driving 6 different supercars on the road. They were not detuned cars. But none put out 700RWHP. Not even close. Not a single one could hold a candle to a stage 3 Horsepower Freaks E46 M3 that I rode in once in Orlando. But it was a built bottom end S54 engine pushing over 700 horsepower to the rear wheel on pump gas and meth spray. 800RWHP on race gas. This was way before flex fuel and E85. I would love to see this build with a fortified 2JZ bottom end running on Flex Fuel E85. That is definitely the way to go in my opinion. Can run MASSIVE boost in the street...up to 30psi. Or run pump gas or any kind of mix!! Boost is automatically adjusted. Using the AEM Infinity computer, you can dial in any level of traction control so you can put power to the ground better than ever before.
You need to buy an OEM giubo, that dorman will not last and we will see an episode on how to replace one with an OEM unit. Remember line up the bolts with the arrows.
One peice drive shaft is the way to go IMO. That carrier bearing is just one more thing to fail. If it's balanced properly it shouldn't vibrate at all.
As a suggestion, why don't you guys get a couple of tripods for your cameras so that you can both be in the picture together doing work on the projects together? I've seen so many times when one of you is filming by hand, hen the other is semi struggling to do a job single handedly. Just a thought... Great build. This episode gave me an idea for a future project of my own.
Man I'm about to do the same thing I drive 40k miles a year and my n54 ain't gonna last that long plus I'm pissed that it's so different from Toyota gm or any other brand like the radiator has a coupler with pin why just why a clamp holds it on better and it won't ever leak unless there's a hole. I'm just done with my 335 already I want reliable power.
